“You gotta convince me that you know what this is all about, that you aren't just fiddling around hoping it'll all... come out right in the end!”- Sam Spade, The Maltese Falcon

Thursday. 8:27am. The train is late and the fall air is crisp, but he is immune to the cold wearing that Humphrey vest she gave him.

She’d turned up at his office late last night.

“I made this for you.” She holds out a brown sweater vest.

Humphrey takes a swig of whiskey. “You're trying to buy my loyalty with knitting and nothing else?”

She replies, “What else is there I can buy you with?”

Vest or no vest, he would have some rotten nights after he’d thrown her over, but that'd pass.

SIZE
S [M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size 1X)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36[40, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length: 24 [24.5, 25, 25.5, 26] inches

MATERIALS
Tarndwarncoort Polwarth [100% polwarth; raw fleece]; color: Dark Brown; 1.2 [1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6] kg 
Note: The yarn construction is 2 ply. I used approximately 650m/650g of finished yarn for the XL vest and allowed around 50% of total raw fleece mass for the completed yarn.  The remainder of the usable fleece was shorter and I have cunning felting plans for it.    

Finished Yarn
Wraps per inch: 8
Yardage used: 650m/650g yards for size 1X

Fiber Preparation
Flick combed and then spun in the grease

Drafting Method
Worsted

	Spinning Tool: Ashford Traveller; double drive ratio 8.5:1

Tools
Yarn needle

GAUGE
16 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Broken Rib (in the round)
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Round 2: Knit.

Broken Rib (worked flat)
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.

When working the waist, arm hole and v neck shaping, maintain the alignment of the broken rib. If in doubt at the edges, work a stitch as a knit...you won’t see it when you pick up the edgings or it will be in the seam under the arm.

This pattern features short row shaping and three needle bind off at the shoulders to eliminate some sewing and the jaggy seam. Check out this article for a great explanation of short-row shoulders with three-needle bind off.

Wrap & Turn [W&T]:
On the RS: Bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch purlwise to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle and turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.
On the WS:, Bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch purlwise to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle and turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
On the RS: Insert the tip of the right needle into the front of wrap from bottom to top, and then into the stitch. Knit the two together by wrapping the yarn as normal, then bringing the yarn through the old stitch and the wrap.
On the WS:  Insert the tip of the right needle into the back (that is, on the knit side of the stockinette fabric) of the wrap from bottom to top, and left it onto the left needle.  Purl the wrap together with the stitch.

DIRECTIONS
Body
Using longer smaller needle, cast on 120[136, 152, 176, 192] stitches.  Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing round: [K2, p2] to end.

Repeat Ribbing round until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on.

Change to larger needle.

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: Purl.

Repeat the above two rounds twice more, for 3 garter ridges.

Set up round: Place marker for start of round, work 60[68, 76, 88, 96] stitches as per Round 1 of Broken Rib pattern, place marker for middle of round, work 60[68, 76, 88, 96] stitches as per Round 1 of Broken Rib pattern. The markers denote the “side seam”.

Increase round: K1, m1, work in pattern to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1; slip marker, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before end of round, m1, k1. 4  sts increased.

Round 2: Work even as per Round 1 of Broken Rib pattern.

Round 3: Work even as per Round 2 of Broken Rib pattern.

Round 4: Work even as per Round 1 of Broken Rib pattern.

Repeat the above 4 rounds 5[5, 5, 3, 3] more times. 144[160,176,192,208] sts total.

Work even in Broken Rib pattern as established until work measures 12.5 [13, 13.5, 13.5, 14] inches from cast-on edge, ending after a Round 2 of pattern.

Divide for Front and Back:
Cast off 3[4, 4, 4, 5] stitches at the start of the next round; work to marker; slip marker and cast off 3[4, 4, 4, 5] sts, work to end in pattern. Turn so that WS is facing. This is the front. 

From here, the front and back are worked separately, back and forth in rows.

Front:
Continuing in Broken Rib pattern, cast off 3[4, 4, 4, 5] stitches at the beginning of the next three rows.

Row 5 [RS]: Ssk, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Row 6 [WS]: P2tog, work in pattern to last 2 sts, p2tog.
Repeat Rows 5-6 1[0, 1, 1, 1] more times, and work Row 5 0[1, 0, 1, 0] more times.

Work 1 more row even in pattern. 

Work Row 5 0[1, 0, 1, 0] more times. 
Work Row 6 1[0, 1, 0, 1] more times. 50[56,62,68,74] sts rem

Continue to work in pattern until piece measures 13 [14.5, 15, 15.5, 16] inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Row 2 [WS]: P2tog, work to end in pattern.  1 st decreased.
Row 3 [RS]: Work even in pattern.
Row 4 [WS]: Work even in pattern.
Row 5 [RS]: Work to last 2 sts in pattern, k2tog.
Row 6 [WS]: Work even in pattern.
Row 7 [RS]: Work even in pattern.

Repeat Rows 2-7 3[4, 5, 5, 6] more times, and Rows 2-4 1[0, 0, 1, 0] more time. 15[17,18,20,22] sts rem

Work even in pattern until piece measures 22.5[23, 23.5, 23.5, 24] inches from cast-on edge, ending with a RS row.

Work short row shoulder shaping as follows:
Row 1 [WS]: Work 10[12, 12, 14, 15] stitches in pattern, W&T.
Row 2 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of row.
Row 3 [WS]: Work 5[6, 6, 7, 8] stitches in pattern, W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of row.
Row 5 [WS]: Work in pattern to end of row, ensuring that you work the wrapped stitches together with their wraps when you come to them.
Cut yarn and place 15[17,18,20,22] left front shoulder sts on a holder.

Right Front:
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to held sts for right front.
Row 1 [RS]: K25[28, 31, 34, 37] sts to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: Work to last 2 sts in pattern, p2tog. 1 st decreased.
Row 3 [RS]: Work even in pattern.
Row 4 [WS]: Work even in pattern.
Row 5 [RS]: Work K2tog, work to end in pattern.
Row 6 [WS]: Work even in pattern.
Row 7 [RS]: Work even in pattern.

Repeat Rows 2-7 3[4, 5, 5, 6] times, and Rows 2-4 1[0, 0, 1, 0] more time. 15[17,18,20,22] sts rem.

Work even in pattern until piece measures 22.5[23, 23.5, 23.5, 24] inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Work short row shoulder shaping as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: Work 10[12, 12, 14, 15] stitches in pattern, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to end of row.
Row 3 [RS]: Work 5[6, 6, 7, 8] stitches in pattern, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: Work in pattern to end of row.
Row 5 [WS]: Work in pattern to end of row, ensuring that you work the wrapped stitches together with their wraps when you come to them. Cut yarn and place 15[17,18,20,22] right front shoulder sts on a holder.

Row 4 [RS]: SSK, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Row 5 [WS]: P2tog, work in pattern to last 2 sts, p2tog.
Repeat Rows 4-5 1[0, 1, 1, 1] more times, and work Row 4 0[1, 0, 1, 0] more times.

Work 1 more row even in pattern.

Work Row 4 0[1, 0, 1, 0] more times.
Work Row 5 1[0, 1, 0, 1] more times. 50[56,62,68,74] sts rem

Work even in pattern until piece measures 24[24.5, 25, 25.5, 26] inches from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shoulder Shaping
Work short row shaping as follows:

Beginning on a RS row,
Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern until 5[6, 6, 7, 8] stitches remain, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern until 5[6, 6, 7, 8] stitches remain, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: Work in pattern until 10[12, 12, 14, 15] stitches remain, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: Work in pattern until 10[12, 12, 14, 15] stitches remain, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of row, ensuring that you work the wrapped stitches together with their wraps when you come to them.
Row 6 [WS]: Work in pattern to end of row, ensuring that you work the wrapped stitches together with their wraps when you come to them.

Shoulder seams:
Holding the fronts and back with RS together, start at the shoulder edges and using three needle bind off, BO 15[17, 18, 20, 22] stitches along each shoulder., 22[22, 26, 28, 30] remain on needle at back of neck.

Neck:
With RS facing, rejoin yarn at neck edge of left shoulder join.
Pick up and knit 21[22, 22, 23, 26] stitches down left front neck , work one stitch from safety pin at center front neck, place marker, work second stitch from safety pin stitch onto needle, pick up and knit 21[22, 22, 23, 26] stitches along right front neck; work across 20[22, 26, 28, 30] sts of back neck. Place marker and join for working in the round. 64[68, 72, 76, 84] sts.

Round 1: K to 3 sts before center front marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to end of round. 2 sts decreased.
Round 2: Purl.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 twice more, for 3 garter ridges. 

Setup for ribbing:
Remove start of round marker, k1[1, 1, 0, 1], replace start of round marker.

Ribbing round 1: [K2, p2] to 2 sts before center front marker, k2tog, ssk, [k2, p2] to end of round.
Ribbing round 2: Work in ribbing pattern as established to end of round.
Ribbing round 3: Work in ribbing pattern as established to 2 sts before center front marker, k2tog, ssk, work in ribbing pattern as established to end of round.
Ribbing round 4: Work in ribbing pattern as established to end of round.

Cast off loosely in pattern.

Armhole edging
With RS facing, using shorter smaller needle, rejoin yarn and pick up and knit 80 [84, 88, 92, 96] stitches evenly distributed around armhole. Join for working in the round.

Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: Purl.
Repeat the above two rounds twice more, for 3 garter ridges.

Ribbing round: [K2, P2] to end.
Repeat Ribbing round 3 times more.  Cast off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for second armhole.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Astrid Kauffman lives in Melbourne, Australia where she is an engineer by day and spends her evenings prizing “Mummy’s special string” out of the fur kids’ mouths.

She only slightly objects to the fact that her staff in her day job said her knitting looked like Humphrey B Bear when she was clearly paying homage to Humphrey Bogart.