Who says lace can’t be casual?  Eileen is a jacket that can take the place of your favorite sweatshirt when you want or need something just a little nicer. 

The charts are easy to learn, and the two–way zipper gives Eileen the versatility to be worn to work, or on a hike in the woods.

Eileen is worked in pieces from the bottom up. Gentle waist shaping is done at the sides. The collar is picked up and knit after the other pieces have been assembled.

The sweater is designed to fit slightly oversized.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length: 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Berroco Ultra Alpaca [50% alpaca/50% wool; 215yd/198m per 100 gram skein]; color: #6278 Stone Washed Mix; 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #7/4.5mm needles

Notions
Stitch holders
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread to match yarn
1 two-way separating zipper
Note: Buy zipper after sweater is complete to ensure correct length.

GAUGE
20 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st, after blocking

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This sweater has slightly deeper armholes and wider sleeves than usual, so that it can easily be worn as an outer layer, like a jacket.

Shaping Note
Within the lace pattern, each yarnover increase is paired with a decrease. When shaping shoulders and sleeve caps, be sure to work a yarnover with its paired decrease . If there are not enough sts to work both the yarnover and its paired decrease, work those sts in stockinette st instead.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. *Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*
Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

Tutorials on sewing zippers into knits can be found here and here.

DIRECTIONS

Set-up Row [RS]: K5[10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35], work Row 1 of Chart B, work Row 1 of Chart A, p3, work Row 1 of Chart A, work Row 1 of Chart B, k5[10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35].
This row establishes chart patterns for back. From this point on, maintain sts at beginning and end of each row in stockinette st, center 3 sts in reverse stockinette st, and all other sts following Charts A and B as set.

Work in pattern until work measures 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] inches, ending with a WS row.
Note: As written, length of sweater is 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28] inches at center back. If you wish to alter the length of the sweater, work more or less length at this point, and before the waist increase rows begin. Be sure to make a note of any alterations to back length, so that front length can be altered the same way.

Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 5 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 75[85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 9[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10] inches, ending with a WS row.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: K3, M1L, work in pattern to last 3 sts, M1R, k3.
Work 9 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10 rows twice more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 83[93, 103, 113, 123, 133, 143] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 16 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 6[6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 71[81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12] times more. 59[69, 75, 81, 85, 91, 95] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7[8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11] inches from beginning of armhole shaping (23[24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27] inches from lower edge), ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
Note: Shoulders are shaped using short rows. Read Shaping Note (see Pattern Notes above) re. working lace pattern while shaping shoulders.

Rows 1-2: Work in pattern to last 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts, W&T.
Rows 3-4: Work in pattern to last 10[12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16] sts, W&T.
Rows 5-6: Work in pattern to end, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts.
Row 7 [RS]: Work 14[17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25] sts in pattern, BO next 31[35, 35, 39, 41, 43, 45] sts, work in pattern to end. Place each set of 14[17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25]  remaining sts on st holders.

Set-up Row [RS]: K5[10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35], work Row 1 of Chart B, work Row 1 of Chart A, k3.
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise with yarn held to front of work, k2, work sts of Charts A and B in pattern, p5[10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35].
These rows establish chart patterns for left front. From this point on, maintain sts at side edge in stockinette st, center 35 sts following Charts A and B as set, and 3 sts at front edge in garter st. Slip first st of each WS row purlwise, with yarn held to front of work.

Work in pattern until work measures 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] inches, ending with a WS row.

Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 39[44, 49, 54, 59, 64, 69] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 9[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10] inches, ending with a WS row.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: K3, M1L, work in pattern to end.
Work 9 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10 rows twice more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 43[48, 53, 58, 63, 68, 73] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armhole:
Next Row [RS]: BO 6[6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.

Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12] times more. 31[36, 39, 42, 44, 47, 49] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 5.5[6, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8] inches from beginning of armhole shaping (21.5[22, 23, 23, 23.5, 23.5, 24] inches from lower edge), ending with a RS row.

Shape Neckline:
Note: Do not slip edge sts while shaping neckline.
Row 1 [WS]: Work 13[14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16] sts in pattern and place these sts on st holder, work in pattern to end. 18[22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 33] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 3 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Repeat Rows 2-3 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7] times more. 14[17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to beginning of shouder shaping, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [WS]: Work in pattern to last 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts, W&T.
Rows 2, 4 [RS]: Work in pattern to end.
Row 3 [WS]: Work in pattern to last 10[12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16] sts, W&T.
Row 5 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts.
Work 1 row in pattern, then join to sts of left back shoulder using three-needle bind off.

Set-up Row [RS]: Sl 1 purlwise with yarn held to back of work, k2, work Row 1 of Chart A, work Row 1 of Chart B, k5[10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35].
Next Row [WS]: P5[10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35], work sts of Charts A and B in pattern, k3.
These row establishes chart patterns for right front. Slip first st of each RS row purlwise, with yarn held to back of work.

Work in pattern until work measures 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] inches, ending with a WS row.

Waist Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 39[44, 49, 54, 59, 64, 69] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 9[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10] inches, ending with a WS row.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, M1R, k3.
Work 9 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10 rows twice more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 43[48, 53, 58, 63, 68, 73] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to underarm, ending with a RS row.

Shape Armhole:
Next Row [WS]: BO 6[6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts, work in pattern to end.

Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5[5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12] times more. 31[36, 39, 42, 44, 47, 49] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 5.5[6, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8] inches from beginning of armhole shaping (21.5[22, 23, 23, 23.5, 23.5, 24] inches from lower edge), ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline:
Row 1 [RS]: Work 13[14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16] sts in pattern and place these sts on st holder, work in pattern to end. 18[22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 33] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat Rows 2-3 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7] times more. 14[17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to beginning of shouder shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts, W&T.
Rows 2, 4 [WS]: Work in pattern to end.
Row 3 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 10[12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16] sts, W&T.
Row 5 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts.
Work 1 row in pattern, then join to sts of right back shoulder using three-needle bind off.

Set-up Row [RS]: K2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8], p1, k3, p3, work Row 1 of Chart A, p3, k3, p1, k2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8].
Next Row [WS]: P2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8], k1, p3, k3, work Row 2 of Chart A, k3, p3, k1, p2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8].
These 2 rows set pattern for sleeve.
Work 4 more rows in pattern.

Increase Row [RS]: K2, M1R, work in pattern to last 2 sts, M1L, k2.
Work 7[5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8[6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 3[15, 16, 11, 7, 9, 7] times more. 50[76, 80, 72, 66, 72, 70] sts.

Sizes XS, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Work Increase Row. Work 5[-, -, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[-, -, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 9[-, -, 6, 12, 9, 12] times more. 70[-, -, 86, 92, 92, 96] sts.

All Sizes:
Continue in pattern until work measures 17.5[18, 18.5, 19, 19, 19, 19] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 6[6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 58[64, 66, 70, 74, 72, 74] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 9[13, 18, 17, 19, 20, 23] times more. 38[36, 28, 34, 34, 30, 26] sts.

Sizes XS, S, M, L, 1X, 2X Only:
Work Decrease Row.
Next Row [WS]: P2, p2tog, work in pattern to last 4 sts, ssp, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows 3[2, 0, 1, 1, 0, -] times more. 22[24, 24, 26, 26, 26, -] sts.

All Sizes:
BO 3 sts at beginning of next 4 rows.
BO remaining 10[12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14] sts.

COLLAR
With WS of work facing, place held sts of left front neckline on needle and join yarn at front edge. Sl first st, k to end of held sts; pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along shaped portion of left front neckline edge to shoulder seam, place marker; pick up and k 1 st in each bound off st along back neckline edge, place marker; pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along shaped portion of right front neckline edge, k held sts of right front neckline. Count sts to be sure you have the same number for right and left sides of neckline.

Important: Note that RS of collar is at WS of sweater, so that RS will show when collar is folded back. In the directions that follow, [RS] and [WS] will refer to collar, not to sweater.
Collar is shaped using short rows, worked across back neck sts. Edge sts are slipped in the same way as front edge sts; sts are also slipped at short row turning points.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, k2, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k to second marker, W&T.
Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, W&T.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k to 5[6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts before marker, W&T.
Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 5[6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts before marker, W&T.
Row 6 [RS]: Sl 1, k to 10[12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16] sts before marker, W&T.
Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 10[12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16] sts before marker, W&T.
Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, k to end, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts.
Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, k2, p to last 3 sts, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts; k3.
Continue in stockinette st, slipping edge sts and maintaining 3 sts at each edge in garter st, until collar measures 4[4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5] inches, measured from front neckline edge.

BO all sts loosely.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements shown in schematic.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.
Sew in zipper (see Pattern Notes for links to tutorials on sewing in zippers).

Heather Hoefle lives a busy life as a wife, mother and school band director near Chicago, IL.  Knitting provides her with a much needed, quiet diversion. 

She blogs here.