by

This design started with a challenge. Can you design a garment from natural, undyed yarn that looks fashionable and stylish rather than rustic? I figured I would need a yarn that is stunning enough in its natural state, a flattering shape, and a bit of interesting contrast both in color and texture.

When it comes to yarn, nothing is more beautiful to me than Wensleydale wool. Since my favorite brand of this yarn is imported from the UK and therefore quite pricey for the US knitter, I was thrilled to find a couple of American Wensleydale breeders at Rhinebeck one year. Many sketches and swatches later, I had come up with this fitted, short sleeved pullover with contrasting knitted hems and a generous trinity stitch cowl to show off the yarn’s beautiful texture and create an elegant, flattering shape. Gathered shoulders add a vintage touch to the design.

On the sleeve of each skein of yarn, you will find the name of the sheep whose fleece it was spun from - in this case the sheep were named Sampson and Lila. I think they make a dashing couple and I’d like to believe that wearing Sampson’s long, lustrous locks will give the wearer the strength to deal with any challenge she might face. Dressed in this pullover, neither lions nor philistines can ruin your day.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size S

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length: 21[21.5, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Crimson Shamrock Wensleydale 3-ply Sport Weight [100% Wensleydale wool; 250yd/229m per 142g skein]
[MC] Natural grey 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins
[CC] Natural cream; 2 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #4/3.5 mm straight needles
1 set US # 3/3.25 mm straight needles
1 24-inch US #3/3.25 mm circular needle

Notions
Yarn needle
Stitch holders
Smooth waste yarn (used for basting sleeves)
Stitch marker

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

m1p (Make 1 purl stitch): Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch. 1 st increased (stitch will be twisted).

DIRECTIONS
BACK
Using smaller needles and CC, CO 77[87, 97, 107, 117, 127, 137] sts. Work 16 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: *Insert tip of left needle into back of CO st below next st on needle, k picked-up st together with next st on needle; repeat from * until all sts have been worked. Break CC.

Switching to larger needles and MC, continue as follows:
Next Row [WS]: K7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13], k2tog, *k12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24], k2tog; repeat from * three times, k7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13]. 72[82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 3[3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4] inches, ending with a WS row.
Note: As written, sweater will measure 14[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5] inches to underarm. To alter length, work more or fewer rows at this point.

Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.

Work 7 rows in pattern.

Repeat these 8 rows three times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 62[72, 82, 92, 102, 112, 122] sts.
Work 15 rows in pattern.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Work 7 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8 rows three times more, then work Increase Row once more. 72[82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 14[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 64[72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9] times more. 58[64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 92] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 6[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8] inches from beginning of armhole.

Right Shoulder:
P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times more. 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole. Place all sts on st holder.

Left Shoulder:
Place held sts of left shoulder on needle and join yarn with RS facing. K 1 row.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times more. 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole. Place all sts on st holder.

Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping begins before neckline shaping is complete.

Shape Neckline:
Next Row [RS]: K19[21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 30], place next 20[22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32]  sts on st holder for back neckline; place last 19[21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 30] sts on st holder for upper right front.

Upper Left Front:
P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME:
When work measures 14[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5] inches or same as back to underarm, shape armholes as for back. When all shaping is complete, 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20] sts remain.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures same as back to shoulders. Join to held sts of left back shoulder using three-needle bind off (see Pattern Notes).

Upper Right Front:
Place held sts of upper right front on needle and join yarn with RS facing. K 1 row.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME:
When work measures 14[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5] inches or same as back to underarm, shape armholes as for back. When all shaping is complete, 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20] sts remain.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures same as upper left front. Join to held sts of right back shoulder using three-needle bind off.

Switching to larger needles and MC, work in stockinette st until work measures 2[2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 42[42, 45, 48, 54, 62, 67] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 2] times more. 40[40, 43, 46, 52, 58, 61] sts.

Work Decrease Row. Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4] times more. 32[32, 35, 38, 44, 50, 51] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 6.5[7, 7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8, 8.5] inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.

BO 4[4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7] sts at beginning of next 4 rows.
BO remaining 16[16, 19, 18, 20, 22, 23] sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block to measurements shown in schematic.

Pin sleeve caps into armholes, beginning at underarm and working up each side of cap towards top. Fold and pin fullness at top of sleeve cap into pleats, then baste sleeves into armholes using smooth waste yarn. Try on sweater to check fit and shape of sleeve caps, then adjust as necessary before sewing sleeves into armholes and removing waste yarn. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.

Cowl:
Using CC and circular needle in smaller size, beginning at left shoulder seam with RS facing, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows and k all held sts around neckline. Count sts; if necessary, increase or decrease 1 or 2 sts when working first round to obtain a multiple of 4 sts.

Turn work so that WS is facing. Work cowl with WS facing, so that RS of cowl will be facing when folded over as shown. At end of first round, place marker and join to work in the round.
Round 1: P all sts.
Round 2: *[P1, k1, p1] into next st (1 st increased to 3 sts), k3tog; repeat from * to end.
Round 3: P all sts.
Round 4: *K3tog, [p1, k1, p1] into next st; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 for Trinity Stitch.

Continue in Trinity Stitch until work measures 9 inches, ending with Round 1 or Round 3. Loosely BO all sts.
Weave in remaining ends. Block cowl, if desired.

Insa knits, lives and works in Washington, DC in exactly that order. She dreams of moving to the UK one day. Her ravelry ID is Insa.