Knitty: little purls of wisdom
fiber wild
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

106th is a simple raglan cardigan with two bands of a graphic slipped-stitch pattern around the yoke. Because the colorwork is done with slipped stitches, only one color is used at a time, which makes it easy to work the cardigan from the top down in one piece.

The raglan silhouette, the slim fit, and the colors of this design remind me of 1970s ski sweaters, but cleaner and updated. Instead of snowflakes or reindeer shapes, this retro design features a more urban pattern reminiscent of highways, windows, row houses, or consoles.

spacer model: Ann Weaver
spacer photos: Beth Weaver and Karen Weaver
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SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X]
(shown in size XS with 4 inches of positive ease)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36[40.5, 45.25, 52, 54.25, 61.25] inches (buttoned)
Buttonband: 1.75 inches wide
Length: 24.75[26, 26.75, 28.5, 29, 30] inches

Note: For a looser fit, choose a size one size larger than your bust circumference.
For a snugger fit, choose the size closest to your bust circumference.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

Blue Sky Alpacas Techno [68% baby alpaca, 10% extra fine merino, 22% silk; 120yd/109m per 50g skein]
spacer [MC] 1977 Aquarius; 5 [6, 6, 8, 8, 9] skeins
spacer [CC1] 1975 Club Gray; 1 [2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
spacer [CC2] 1978 Marquee Yellow; 1 skein
spacer [CC3] 1970 Fame; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 14-inch US #10/6mm circular needle
spacer 16-inch US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle
spacer 24-inch US #10/6.0mm circular needle
spacer 24-inch US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle
spacer 1 set US #10/6.0mm double-point needles
spacer 1 set US #10.5/6.5mm double-point needles

Notions
spacer 10 stitch markers
spacer 2 stitch holders or waste yarn
spacer yarn needle for weaving in ends
spacer 10[10, 11, 12, 12, 13] buttons approximately 1 inch in diameter
spacer sewing thread and needle to attach buttons

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GAUGE

14 sts/20 rows = 4" in Stockinette stitch on US #10.5/6.5mm needles
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

M: marker

M1L: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch. 1 stitch increased.

M1P: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch. 1 stitch increased.

For Block Pattern worked back and forth, the color used for the slip-stitch rows is joined at the beginning and cut at the end of these rows because the rows start after the m1; they do not include the 6 buttonband sts at the beginning and end of the row. When the color is used next, it must be joined at the beginning of the row.

DIRECTIONS
BODY
Using MC and smaller 14-inch circular needle, CO 6 sts for buttonband, place marker 1 (from here known as m1), CO 11[11, 11, 15, 15, 15] sts for left front, place marker 2 (m2), CO 1 st for raglan seam, place marker 3 (m3), CO 6[6, 6, 10, 10, 10] sts for left sleeve, place marker 4 (m4), CO 1 st for raglan seam, place marker 5 (m5), CO 23[23, 23, 31, 31, 31] sts for back, place marker 6 (m6), CO 1 st for raglan seam, place marker 7 (m7), CO 6[6, 6, 10, 10, 10] sts for right sleeve, place marker 8 (m8), CO 1 st for raglan seam, place marker 9 (m9), CO 11[11, 11, 15, 15, 15] sts for right front, place marker 10 (m10), CO 6 sts for buttonband. 73[73, 73, 97, 97, 97] sts.

Rib set-up row [WS]: Slipping all markers, [p1, k1] to last st, p1.

Note: Continue to slip all markers as you come to them unless otherwise stated.

Collar
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Rep last two rows 6 times more, AT THE SAME TIME, work Buttonhole Rows on Rows 5/6 and 13/14 as follows:

Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: Work as est to last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, work to end of row.
Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: Work as est, purling st created by yo.

Once collar has been completed, change to larger 24-inch circular needle.

Raglan Shaping:
Note: Continue to work 6-st buttonbands in k1, p1 ribbing for remainder of body. Continue to work buttonholes every 10 rows as est (counting from Row 13 of collar) until a total of 10[10, 11, 12, 12, 13] buttonholes have been worked.

Important: Do not count slipped st rows where buttonband sts are not worked as rows between buttonhole placement.

Row 1 [RS]: Rib to m1, sl m, knit to m2, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L, knit to m4, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L, k12 [12, 12, 16, 16, 16], M1, [knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L] twice, knit to m10, sl m, rib to end. 8 raglan sts inc, plus 1 additional st inc for Back; 82[82, 82, 106, 106, 106] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Row 3 [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, [knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L] four times, knit to m, sl m, rib to end.

Row 4 [WS]: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.
Rep last 2 rows twice more. 106[106, 106, 130, 130, 130] sts.

Begin Block Pattern:
Note: Raglan increases are not worked on slip-stitch rows (Rows 3, 9, and 15) of Block Pattern, but are worked on all other RS rows as est. Cont to work buttonholes as est.

Cut MC and join CC1.

Row 1 [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, [knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L] four times, knit to m, sl m, rib to end. 114[114, 114, 138, 138, 138] sts.

Row 2: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Row 3 [RS]: Slip 6 buttonband sts without working them, sl m, and join CC2. Using CC2 only, [k2, sl 2 wyib] to m, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times, k2, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 8[8, 8, 10, 10, 10] times, k2, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times, k2, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, [sl 2 wyib, k2] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times. Skip buttonband sts and turn work.

Row 4: Using CC2, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times, p2, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 8[8, 8, 10, 10, 10] times, p2, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times, p2, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, [sl 2 wyif, p2] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times. Cut CC2.

Using CC1 only, rep Rows 1–2 once more. Cut CC1. 122[122, 122, 146, 146, 146] sts.

Using CC2 only, rep Rows 1–2 once more. 130[130, 130, 154, 154, 154] sts.

Row 9: Slip 6 buttonband sts without working them, sl m, and join CC1. Using CC1 only, [sl 2 wyib, k2] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, sl 2 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, k2, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 11] times, k2, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, k2, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 2 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times. Skip buttonband sts and turn work.

Row 10: Using CC1, [sl 2 wyib, p2] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, sl 2 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, [p2, sl 2 wyib] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, p2, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 9[9, 9, 11, 11, 11] times, p2, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times, p2, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 2 wyif, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] times. Cut CC1.

Using CC2 only, rep Rows 1–2 once more. Cut CC2. 138[138, 138, 162, 162, 162] sts.
Using CC1 only, rep Rows 1–2 once more. 146[146, 146, 170, 170, 170] sts.

Row 15: Slip 6 buttonband sts without working them, sl m, and join CC2. Using CC2 only, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6] times, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6] times, k2, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12] times, k2, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6] times, k2, sl 1 wyib, sl m, sl 1 wyib, sl m, [sl 2 wyib, k2] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6] times. Skip buttonband sts and turn work.

Row 16: Using CC2, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6] times, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, p2, [sl 2 wyif, p2] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6], sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12] times, p2, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, p2, [sl 2 wyif, p2] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6], sl 1 wyif, sl m, sl 1 wyif, sl m, [sl 2 wyif, p2] 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6] times. Cut CC2.

Using CC1 only, rep Rows 1–2 once more. 154[154, 154, 178, 178, 178] sts.

Cut CC1 and join MC.

Continue to shape raglan as foll:

Size XS only:
Row 1 [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, [knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L] four times, knit to m, sl m, rib to end.
Row 2: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.
Row 3: Rib to m, sl m, knit to last m, sl m, rib to end.
Row 4: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Rep last four rows 3 times more. 186[-, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes S, M, L, 1X, and 2X only:
Row 1 [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, [knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L] 4 times, knit to m, sl m, rib to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Rep last two rows -[0, 0, 1, 9, 14] times more. -[162, 162, 194, 258, 298] sts.

Sizes S, M, and L only:
Next row [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, [knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, sl m, M1L] four times, knit to m, sl m, rib to end.
Next row: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.
Next row: Patt to m2, m1R, sl m, knit to m5, sl m, m1L, knit to m6, m1R, sl m, knit to m9, sl m, m1L, patt to end.
Next row: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Rep last four rows -[2, 4, 4, -, -] times more. -[198, 222, 254, -, -] sts.

Size 2X only:
Row 1 [RS]: Patt to m2, m1R, sl m, knit to m5, sl m, m1L, knit to m6, m1R, sl m, knit to m9, sl m, m1L, patt to end.
Row 2: Patt to m9, m1p, sl m, purl to m6, sl m, m1p, purl to m5, m1p, sl m, purl to m2, sl m, m1p, patt to end.

Rep last two rows 2 times more, then work Row 1 one more time. -[-, -, -, -, 326] sts.

Next row [WS]: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Sizes S and L only:
Row 1 [RS]: Patt to m2, m1R, sl m, knit to m5, sl m, m1L, knit to m6, m1R, sl m, knit to m9, sl m, m1L, patt to end.
Row 2: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.
Row 3: Rib to m, sl m, knit to last m, sl m, rib to end.
Row 4: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Rep last four rows -[0, -, 1, -, -] time more.
Work -[4, -, 0, -, -] rows even in patt. -[202, -, 262, -, -] sts.

Sizes M and 1X only:
Row 1 [RS]: Patt to m2, m1R, sl m, knit to m5, sl m, m1L, knit to m6, m1R, sl m, knit to m9, sl m, m1L, patt to end.
Row 2: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Rep last two rows -[-, 0, -, 5, -] times more. -[-, 226, -, 282, -] sts.

All sizes:
186[202, 226, 262, 282, 326] total sts: two sets of 6 buttonband sts, 25[29, 33, 39, 41, 47] sts for Left Front, two sets of 34[34, 38, 44, 50, 60] sleeve sts, 52[60, 68, 80, 84, 96] sts for Back, 25[29, 33, 39, 41, 47] sts for Right Front, and 4 raglan sts.

Separate Sleeves from Body:
Next row [RS]: Patt to m2, remove m2, k1, remove m3, place next 34[34, 38, 44, 50, 60] sts on holder or length of waste yarn, CO 2 sts, pm to indicate side "seam," CO 2 sts, remove m4, k1, remove m5, knit to m6, remove m6, k1, remove m7, place next 34[34, 38, 44, 50, 60] sts on holder or length of waste yarn, CO 2 sts, pm to indicate side “seam,” CO 2 sts, remove m8, k1, remove m9, patt to end. 126[142, 158, 182, 190, 214] sts; two sets of 6 buttonband sts, 28[32, 36, 42, 44, 50] sts for each Front, and 58[66, 74, 86, 90, 102] sts for Back

Work Block Pattern:
Cut MC and join CC1, arranging sts so RS is facing for next row.

Row 1 [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, knit to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Row 2: Rib to m, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, rib to end.

Row 3: Slip 6 buttonband sts without working them, sl m, and join CC3. Using CC3 only, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times, k0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], sl m, k1, [k2, sl 2 wyib] 14[16, 18, 21, 22, 25] times, k1, sl m, k0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], [sl 2 wyib, k2] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times. Skip buttonband sts and turn work.

Row 4: Using CC3, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times, p0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], sl m, p1, [sl 2 wyif, p2] 14[16, 18, 21, 22, 25] times, p1, sl m, p0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], [sl 2 wyif, p2] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times. Cut CC3.

Using CC1, rep Rows 1–2 once more. Cut CC1.
Join CC3. Using CC3, rep Rows 1–2 once more.

Row 9: Slip 6 buttonband sts without working them, sl m, and join CC1. Using CC1 only, [sl 2 wyib, k2] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times, k0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], sl m, k1, [sl 2 wyib, k2] 14[16, 18, 21, 22, 25] times, k1, sl m, k0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], [k2, sl 2 wyib] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times. Skip buttonband sts and turn work.
Row 10: Using CC1, [sl 2 wyif, p2] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times, p0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], sl m, p1, [p2, sl 2 wyif] 14[16, 18, 21, 22, 25] times, p1, sl m, p0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2], [p2, sl 2 wyif] 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12] times. Cut CC1.

Using CC3, rep Rows 1–2 once more. Cut CC3.
Join CC1. Using CC1, rep Rows 1–2 once more.
Join CC3. Using CC3, rep Rows 3–4 once more. Cut CC3.
Using CC1, rep Rows 1–2 once more.

Cut CC1 and join MC.

Work even in St st in MC, working ribbing as est, until body measures 4.5[4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5] inches from underarm, ending after a WS row.

Begin waist shaping:
Next row [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, k2tog, knit to m, sl m, rib to end. 122[138, 154, 178, 186, 210] sts.
Work 7 rows even in patt.

Rep last 8 rows once more. 118[134, 150, 174, 182, 206] sts.

Work 4 rows even in patt.

Next row [RS]: Rib to m, sl m, knit to m, M1R, sl m, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, M1L, knit to m, sl m, rib to end. 122[138, 154, 178, 186, 210] sts.

Work 7 rows even in patt.

Rep last 8 rows once more.
126[142, 158, 182, 190, 214] sts.

Work even as est until body measures approx. 13.5[13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5] inches from underarm, ending after a RS row.

Next row [WS]: Rib to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, p25[29, 33, 39, 41, 47], p2tog, purl to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, rib to end. 125[141, 157, 181, 189, 213] sts.

Change to smaller 24-inch circular needle.

Work hem:
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.

Rep last two rows 6 times more. BO loosely in patt.

SLEEVES
With larger 16-inch circular needle or DPNs, join MC at center of underarm and pick up and knit 2 sts to held sts, knit across held 34[34, 38, 44, 50, 60] sleeve sts, then pick up and knit 2 sts to center of underarm. PM for beg of rnd. 38[38, 42, 48, 54, 64] sts.

Block Pattern
Note: When working Block Pattern in the round, there is no need to cut and rejoin CC yarns.

Cut MC and join CC1.
Rnds 1–2: Using CC1, knit.
Rnds 3–4: Join CC3 and, using CC3 only, k1[1, 1, 2, 1, 2], [k2, sl 2 wyib] 9[9, 10, 11, 13, 15] times, k1[1, 1, 2, 1, 2].
Rnds 5–6: Using CC1, knit.
Rnds 7–8: Using CC3, knit.
Rnds 9–10: Using CC1 only, k1[1, 1, 2, 1, 2], [sl 2 wyib, k2] 9[9, 10, 11, 13, 15] times, k1[1, 1, 2, 1, 2].
Rnds 11–12: Using CC3, knit.
Rnds 13–14: Using CC1, knit.
Rnds 15–16: Work as Rnds 3–4.
Rnds 17–18: Using CC1, knit.

Cut CC1 and CC3 and join MC.

Knit every rnd until sleeve measures 4 inches from underarm.

Next rnd: K2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 36[36, 40, 46, 52, 62] sts.
Note: Change from 16-inch circular needle to larger dpns when necessary.

Work 7[7, 5, 5, 3, 2] rnds even.

Rep last 8[8, 6, 6, 4, 3] rnds 6[6, 8, 10, 13, 18] times more. 24[24, 24, 26, 26, 26] sts.

Knit every rnd until sleeve measures 17[17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 17.5] inches.

Change to smaller DPNs.

Cuff:
Rnd 1: [K1, p1] around.
Rep this rnd 11 times more. BO loosely in patt.

Repeat for second sleeve.

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FINISHING
Weave in ends. Wet block. Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Ann Weaver has been designing handknits since 2007 while working a growing string of seemingly unrelated jobs. Her self-published books include Craft Work Knit (2010), White Whale Vol. 1 (2011), and the forthcoming White Whale Vol. 2 (October 2012). Her most recent collection is Twentieth Century Graphic (August 2012) published by KnitPicks.

She currently works as a copyeditor and general hustler in Boston, Massachusetts. You can see more of Ann's work on her website, her blog and Ravelry.

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