Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Title

beauty shot
Tangy

The inspiration for Hugga came one winter day as I followed the trail of knitted accessories up my arm -- fingerless mitts, a shrug and a shawlette -- that were tasked with keeping the chill out as I worked at my computer. I certainly can't complain that I was cold, but it did occur to me that maybe there was a less bulked-up way to keep warm that would also allow my arms and hands to move a little more freely.

Hugga is an all-in-one neck, arm and hand warmer knitted in Quince & Co.'s Osprey, in Peaks Ferry, a rich and seasonal orange-red. The Hug is made by grafting two pieces (a left half and a right half) together along the center back. Each piece is cast on at the fingers' edge and worked up the arm and across the shoulder to center back. The pieces are knit flat, in basic stockinette and a simple, shifting 16-stitch leaf pattern, which makes this a good first lace project for the advanced beginner. Short-row shaping is worked at each shoulder, and the curve of the bottom edge is achieved by lifted increases. All rows begin with a slipped stitch to provide a smooth border with or without the crocheted edging.

The mitt portions of this garment are formed when the hand/wrist areas are buttoned; leave the buttons undone, and you've got an impromptu wrap/shawl.

spacer model: Lydia Henderson
spacer photos: Katherine Angell
 

SIZE
Women's S/M[L/XL]
to fit hand circumference measurement 7 [8.5] inches, shoulder-to-shoulder measurement 15/16 [16.5/17.5] inches, and thumb-joint-to-shoulder measurement 19.5[19.5]. Sizing is not a function of body circumference but rather shoulder width and hand circumference; information for shortening or lengthening between the shoulders or along the forearm is given in the Pattern Notes.
shown in S/M

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length knuckle to knuckle: 62[65] inches
Back depth: 17.5 inches
Hand circumference: 7.5[9] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer [MC] Quince & Co Osprey [100% American wool; 170 yds [155 m]/100g skein]; color: Peaks Ferry; 4[5] skeins
spacer [CC] Quince & Co Lark [100% American wool; 134 yds [123 m]/50g skein]; color: Peaks Ferry; 1[1] skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer One 24-inch US #6/4.0mm circular needle.
Note: Although Hugga is worked flat, a circular needle is recommended to hold the large number of stitches comfortably

Notions
spacer 10 5/8-inch buttons
spacer stitch markers
spacer stitch holder and waste yarn
spacer yarn needle
spacer US G/4.0mm crochet hook

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GAUGE

16 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
22 sts/18 rows= 4 inches in Leaf patt
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

All rows [including the edges of the thumb openings] begin with the first st slipped -- when on the RS, slip the st as if to purl wyb; WS, slip the st as if to purl wyf.

Row 3 of the Leaf pattern reduces the st count to 15 sts; the count returns to 16 on Row 5.

If you wish to shorten or lengthen the forearm, just work fewer or more rows between the "Close thumb opening" and "Widen forearm" sections. To add length across the shoulders, work extra rows on both the Left Half and the Right Half after the last row in instructions, ending each Half with WS row. Likewise, to shorten the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement, determine the total length you want to reduce and divide by 2; reduce both the Left Half and Right Half by that many rows.

When working the last w&t of shoulder shaping, be sure to note which Leaf pattern row would have been worked -- that will be the Leaf pattern row to work when full rows resume (on the next RS row for the Left Half and on the next WS row for the Right Half).

When working the final row of shoulder shaping (working wraps together with wrapped stitches), depending on which Leaf pattern row you are resuming, you may need to adjust st count at the end of the Leaf pattern portion: If you are over by a st, k2tog; if you are under by a st, M1.

chartLeaf Pattern
[begins and ends as a panel of 16 sts]
Row 1 [RS]: K1, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, p1, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k1.

Row 2 [WS]: P5, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p4.

Row 3 [RS]: K1, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, sk2p, yo, k3, yo, k1. 15 sts.

Row 4 [WS]: P7, k1, p2, k1, p4. 15 sts.

Row 5 [RS]: [K1, yo] twice, ssk, p1, [k2tog] twice, yo, k5, yo, k1. 16 sts.

Row 6 [WS]: P8, k1, p1, k1, p5.

Row 7 [RS]: K1, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, p1, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1.

Row 8 [WS]: P1, [p3, k1] twice, p7.

Row 9 [RS]: K1, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1.

Row 10 [WS]: P4, k1, p2, k1, p8.

Adapted from "A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns" by Barbara G. Walker

sk2p: Slip 1 st knitwise to RH needle, k2tog, pass slipped over st created by k2tog (2 sts decreased).

Grafting:
Instructions for grafting can be found here.

Double Crochet [dc]:
1. Yarn over the hook; insert hook tbl. Yarn over again, catching the yarn and drawing it through the first loop. There are now three loops on the hook.
2. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the first two loops on the hook. There are two loops on the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw the hook through the remaining two loops.

Chain Stitch [crochet]:
To begin: Insert hook through knitted edge as instructed and *wrap the working yarn around the hook from the back. Catch this yarn over with the hook and draw it through the loop on the hook. Repeat from * to make the number of chains indicated. [The loop on the hook does not count as part of the number.]

DIRECTIONS
Note: Use MC throughout.

LEFT HALF
CO 34[40] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: (K2, p2) to last 2[0] sts, k2[0].

Row 2 [RS]: P2[0], (k2, p2) to end.

Repeat Row 1 once more.

Next row, set up Leaf pattern [RS]: Sl1, k1[3], pm, work Row 1 of Leaf patt, pm; k to end.

Following row [WS]: Sl 1, p to marker, work next row of Leaf patt, p to end of row.

Work as set until you've completed Row 6 of the Leaf pattern.

Create thumb opening:
Next row [RS]: Work as est to 2 sts after second m, slip the next 14[18] sts onto holder for palm of hand; turn work so WS is facing. 20[22] sts

Next row [WS]: Sl1, work as est to end.

Work 16 rows more as est, ending after Row 4 of Leaf patt; place these sts on a holder. Do not break yarn.

Return the 14[18] held sts back on the needle -- these form the palm section. With RS facing, join a separate ball of yarn at start of these sts -- this is the thumb edge.

Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k13[17].

Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p13[17].

Work last 2 rows 8 more times. Break yarn.

Close thumb opening/Join sections
With RS facing, return sts held for top-of-hand section (the patterned stitches) to the left needle, ahead of palm section. That is, you want the patterned section to be positioned first on the needle, the rest of the row afterwards.

Next row [RS]: With yarn attached at Leaf pattern edge, work across all sts as est.
Cont as est for 21 more rows until you've completed the current repeat of the Leaf pattern, worked another full repeat, and then six rows of an additional repeat. 34[40] sts

Widen forearm:
Increase row [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work as est to last st, RLI, k1. 2 sts increased in stockinette section.

Work 3 rows even as est.

Rep the last four rows 2 more times, ending after Row 8 of Leaf patt. 40[46] sts total.

Shift Leaf pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: Work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, ssk, k to end.

Row 2 [WS]: Work even as est.

Rep last two rows 10 more times.

Row 23 [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, ssk, k to end. 1 st increased. 41[47] sts – 16 sts in patterned section; 25[31] sts in stockinette section.

Row 24 [WS]: Work even as est.

Row 25 [RS]: As Row 1.

Row 26 [WS]: Work even as est.

Row 27: As Row 23. 1 st increased in stockinette section.

Rep last 4 rows 1[3] more times, and work Row 24 once more. 1[3] sts more increased in stockinette section -- 27[35] sts total in stockinette.

Leaf pattern shift is complete. There are now 3 sts remaining after the second m; no more ssk will be worked after second m.

Shape stockinette section:
Row 1 [RS]: Work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, k to end. 1 st increased in stockinette section.
Rows 2 and 4 [WS]: Work even as est.
Row 3: Sl1, LLI, work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, k to end. 2 sts increased in stockinette section.
Rep last 4 rows 2[0] more times. 36[38] sts total in stockinette.

Next Row [RS]: Sl1, [LLI twice], work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, k to end. 3 sts increased in stockinette section.
Following row [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last 2 rows 3 more times. 48[50] sts total in stockinette.

Next row [RS]: Work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, k to end. 1 st increased in stockinette section.
Following row [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 50[52] sts total in stockinette.

Next row [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work as est to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, k to end. 2 sts increased in stockinette section.
Following row [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last 2 rows 4 more times. 60[62] sts total in stockinette.

Shape shoulder/bottom edge:
Note: Shoulder shaping is worked on RS rows.

Row 1 [RS]: Work to 1 st before last m, w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: Work in patt est.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work to 4 sts before last m, w&t. 1 st increased in stockinette section; 61[63] sts total in stockinette.
Row 4 [WS]: Work in patt est.
Row 5 [RS]: Work to 8 sts before last m, w&t.
Row 6 [WS]: Work in patt est.
Row 7 [RS]: Work to 12 sts before last m, w&t.
Row 8 [WS]: Work in patt est.
Row 9 [RS]: Work to 1 st after first m, w&t.
Row 10 [WS]: Purl to end.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work as est to first m; resume full Leaf Pattern row, working wraps together with wrapped sts. 1 st increased in stockinette section; 62[64] sts total in stockinette.
Rows 12-18: Work in patt est.
Row 19 [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work as est to end. 1 st increased in stockinette section; 63[65] sts total in stockinette.
Work even as est for 7[8] inches (or desired length to center back), ending WS row. Place sts on waste yarn or stitch holder. Break yarn, leaving a tail 2-3 times the length of last row worked.

RIGHT HALF
CO 34[40] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: (K2, p2) to last 2[0] sts, k2[0].
Row 2 [RS]: P2[0], (k2, p2) to end.
Repeat Row 1 once more.

Next row, set up Leaf pattern [RS]: Sl1, p15[19] sts, pm, work Row 1 of Leaf patt, pm. Knit remaining 2[4] sts.
Following row [WS]: Sl 1, p1[3], work next row of Leaf patt, p to end of row.
Work as set until you've completed Row 6 of the Leaf pattern.

Create thumb opening:
Next row [RS]: Work as est to 2 sts before first m, slip the next 20[22] sts onto holder for top of hand; turn work so WS is facing. 14[18] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p13[17].

Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k13[17].

Work last 2 rows 7 more times, then work Row 1 one more time. Place these sts on a holder. Do not break yarn.

Return the 20[22] held sts for the top-of-hand section back on the needle.

With RS facing, join a separate ball of yarn at the start of these sts -- this is the thumb edge. Sl1, k1, sl m, work Row 7 of Leaf Pattern to m, sl m, k to end.

Cont as est for 17 more rows -- until you've completed current repeat of the Leaf pattern, worked another full repeat, and then four rows of an additional repeat. Break yarn, leaving a tail to weave in.

Close thumb opening/Join sections:
Next Row [RS]: With RS facing, return sts held for palm section to left needle ahead of top-of-hand section [this will be a Row 5 of Leaf patt]. With yarn attached at edge of palm section, work across all sts as est.

Cont as est for 21 more rows until you've completed the current repeat of the Leaf pattern, worked another full repeat, and then six rows of an additional repeat. 34[40] sts.

Widen forearm:
Increase row [RS]: Sl1, LLI, work as est to last st, RLI, k1. 2 sts increased 36[42] sts

Work 3 rows even as est.

Rep the last four rows 2 more times, ending after Row 8 of Leaf patt. 40[46] sts

Shift Leaf pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: Work as est to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, RLI, k to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last two rows 10 more times.

Row 23 [RS]: Work as est to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work next row of Leaf Pattern to next m, sl m, RLI, work to last st, RLI, k1. 1 st increased 41[47] sts– 16 sts in patterned section; 25[31] sts in stockinette section.
Row 24 [WS]: Work even as est.
Row 25 [RS]: As Row 1.
Row 26 [WS]: Work even as est.
Row 27: As Row 23. 1 st increased in stockinette section.
Rep last 4 rows 1[3] more times, and work Row 24 once more. 1[3] sts more increased in stockinette section – 27[35] sts total in stockinette.

Leaf pattern shift is complete. There are now 3 sts remaining before the first m; no more k2tog will be worked before the first m.

Shape stockinette section:
Row 1 [RS]: Work as est to second m, sl m, RLI, work even to end. 1 st increased in stockinette section.
Rows 2 and 4 [WS]: Work even as est.
Row 3 [RS]: Work as est to second m, sl m, RLI, work to last st, RLI, k1. 2 sts increased in stockinette section.
Rep last 4 rows 2[0] more times. 36[38] sts total in stockinette.

Next row [RS]: Work as est to second m, sl m, RLI, work to last 2 sts, (RLI, k1) twice. 3 sts increased in stockinette section.
Following row [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last 2 rows three times. 48[50] sts total in stockinette.

Next row [RS]: Work as est to second m, sl m, RLI, work even to end. 1 st increased in stockinette section.
Following row [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last 2 rows one more time. 50[52] sts total in stockinette.

Next row [RS]: Work as est to second m, sl m, RLI, work to last st, RLI, k1. 2 sts increased in stockinette section.
Following [WS]: Work even as est.
Rep last 2 rows four more times. 60[62] sts total in stockinette.

Shape shoulder/bottom edge:
Note: Shoulder shaping is worked on WS rows.

Row 1 [RS]: Work in patt est.

Row 2 [WS]: Work to 1 st before last m, w&t.

Row 3 [RS]: Work in patt est to last st, RLI, k1. 1 st increased in stockinette section; 61[63] sts total in stockinette.

Row 4 [WS]: Work to 4 sts before last m, w&t.

Row 5 [RS]: Work in patt est.

Row 6 [WS]: Work to 8 sts before last m, w&t.

Row 7 [RS]: Work in patt est.

Row 8 [WS]: Work to 12 sts before last m, w&t.

Row 9 [RS]: Work in patt est.

Row 10 [WS]: Work to 1 st after 1st m, w&t.

Row 11 [RS]: Work in patt est to last 2 sts, KRL, k1. 1 st increased in stockinette section; 62[64] sts total in stockinette.

Row 12 [WS]: Work as est to first m; resume full Leaf Pattern row, working wraps together with wrapped sts.

Rows 13-18: Work in patt est.

Row 19 [RS]: As Row 3. 1 st increased in stockinette section; 63[65] sts total in stockinette.

Work even as est for 7[8] inches (or desired length to center back), ending WS row. Leave sts on needle; break yarn, leaving a tail to weave in.

schematic

FINISHING
Join left and right pieces:
Place sts for Left Half back onto a spare needle. Hold pieces wrong sides together, with Right Half behind Left Half. Graft sts together using Kitchener Stitch.

Weave in ends and block to measurements.

Make chain stitch button loops and crochet edging:
Note: When working button loops, all anchor sts are made through both loops of slipped stitches on knitted edge.
Note: Change to CC.

Left wrist button loops: With RS facing, hold left-side piece with the leaf pattern section at the top. Secure yarn where ribbing at knuckles' edge ends. With crochet hook, *Chain 5 and anchor as a loop into second knit st from beg anchor point. Chain 1 into and along the next 4 sts of knitted edge. Rep from * 4 times.
Crochet edging: Cont to hold piece as above and work with the same strand of yarn. *Chain 2, dc tbl of next edge st, chain 2, and anchor in next edge stitch; rep from * until 9 inches from ribbed knuckle edge.

Right wrist button loops: Cont to hold piece as above and work with the same strand of yarn. *Chain 1 into and along the next 4 sts of knitted edge. Chain 5 and anchor as a loop into second knit st from last chain st made along knitted edge. Rep from * 4 times; fasten off.
Sew on buttons.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Carolyn is equal parts city mouse and country mouse. A native Mainer who spent far too many years in Manhattan as a magazine editor, she resides again in her homestate, relishing the fact that hand-knits are a wardrobe necessity for all but about two months of the year.

In addition to self-published designs, her patterns have appeared in Vogue Knitting, Knit.Wear, and Interweave Knits. She also contributes exclusive designs for Knit One, Crochet Too yarns. Between cast-ons, Carolyn blogs about knitting here.

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