Knitty: little purls of wisdom
beauty shot


I love patterns that are reversible and have an interesting texture. Recently I tried out a pattern named "Netzpatent" (a brioche net). When I looked at the structure of the sample it seemed to have a layer on each side. I asked myself if it is possible to divide the two layers by color. A test with two yarns showed that it is not possible to knit it like a normal two-colored brioche: the front and back must be knitted in turns.

So the Cross Hatch design knitted in rounds, but in two different directions came to my mind. This is a lot easier to knit than it seems.

The result is a wonderful translucent two-sided infinity scarf with a structure that seems not to be knitted on first sight.

spacer models: Karin Brummer, Imelda Keller
spacer photos: Claudia Brummer, Karin Brummer

Single wrap fingering weight[double wrap laceweight, double wrap fingering weight]

This piece is very adjustable.
See Pattern Notes for details on resizing.

Blue and yellow fingering-weight version (single-wrap)
Height: 12 inches
Circumference: 24 inches

Black and white laceweight version (double-wrap)
Height: 9 inches
Circumference: 52 inches

Blue and grey fingering-weight version (double-wrap)
Height: 7 inches
Circumference: 52 inches



Blue and yellow fingering-weight version (single-wrap)
Lisa Souza Cashmere/Silk Fingering [55% silk, 45% cashmere, 400 yards per 2oz skein]
spacer [MC] North Sea, 1 skein
spacer [CC] Glory, 1 skein

Black and white laceweight version (double-wrap)
spacer [MC] Drops Lace [70% wool, 30% silk; 800m per 100g skein]; black, 1 skein
spacer [CC] Atelier citron, filisilk [70% wool, 30% silk; 600m per 100g skein]; white, 1 skein

Blue and grey fingering-weight version (double-wrap)
spacer [MC] geilsk bomuld og uld [55% wool, 45% cotton 232m per 50g skein]; color 16, 1 skein
spacer [CC] Louisa Harding Amitola [80% wool, 20% silk, 250m per 50g skein]; color 116, 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer Single wrap/fingering weight version: 16-24 inch circular needle US #6/4mm
spacer Double wrap/laceweight version: 32-40 inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle
spacer Double wrap/fingering weight version: 32-40 inch US #6/4mm 32-40 inch circular needle
Note: Always use needles one to two sizes bigger than recommended for the yarn.

spacer stitch marker
spacer yarn needle



Blue and yellow fingering-weight version (single-wrap)
26 sts/60 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch

Black and white laceweight version (double-wrap)
27 sts/70 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch

Blue and grey fingering-weight version (double-wrap)
22 sts/52 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch


[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Numbers are given for three versions, but you can modify very easily by casting on a multiple of three stitches, and working until the piece is the length you wish.

After each round you turn your work and knit in the other direction. MC goes only clockwise and CC only anticlockwise. When you turn your work between rounds, make sure you do not twist the yarns.

Once the setup round is complete, you need no marker. You are at the end of the round when you meet the other colour.

sl1yb: with yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise

yo: you will work a yarnover immediately after each sl1yb – bring the yarn to the front, between the needles, and then over top of the needle again, to the back

brk1: knit the stitch together with the yarnover that accompanies it. The yarnover will be in the same color you are working, the stitch in the other color. In each round, the last brk1 is worked over the final stitch of the round and the first stitch of the next round.


Using MC, CO 156[300, 339] stitches, place marker and join for working in the round.

Round 1: With MC, [sl1yb, yo, k2tog] to end. Turn work. Remove the marker; from here you’ll keep track of the start of the round by where the yarns sit.

Round 2: With CC, k1, [sl1yb (the slipped stitch is a yarnover), yo, k2tog] to end. Turn work.

Round 3: With MC, sl1yb, [sl1yb (the slipped stitch is a yarnover in CC), yo, brk1] to end. Turn work.

Round 4: With CC, sl1yb, [sl1yb (the slipped stitch is a yarnover in MC), yo, brk1] to end. Turn work.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 until you reach the desired length. Bind off loosely, knitting the yarnover as a stitch.


Weave in ends and block.


designernamespacer Karin is a teacher for textile techniques for children. In her time off she always tries to work out difficult patterns (or easy ones that look as such) and different new combinations. She lives in Switzerland.

Contact her on Ravelry.