Uberib slippers, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a pair of thickly ribbed slippers worked in two-color brioche.
My dad saw me knitting my first pair of slippers (up until that point, all I had done was turn out numerous crooked dish cloths), and exclaimed, "You mean, you can actually knit practical things!?"
He promptly requested that I make him slippers.
It took me a few months to create something that I liked. That first pair, when finished, was much too large for any human foot and ended up being square-shaped. I still scratch my head over that one. But finally, (after months of trial and error), I proudly presented him with his own pair. Just in time for summer.
Oh well. Next winter is always coming, he can wait and wear them then.
The slippers are worked in brioche stitch because, honestly, everything is better in brioche. The brioche stitch makes things warmer, and yarns feel softer. The pattern itself is relatively simple, so it is perfect for someone who is learning how to do the brioche stitch.
model: Chris Welder
Adult Small[Medium, Large]
Foot Circumference: 8.5[9, 9.5] inches/ 21.5[23, 24.5] cm unstretched
Foot Length: 8.25[9.25, 10.25] inches/ 21[23.5, 26] cm
Lorna's Laces, Cloudgate [90% Superwash Merino Wool, 10% Nylon; 120 yds/110m per 4oz/100gm skein]; color:
[MC] Rainbow/number 601; 1 skein
[CC] Charcoal/number 16NS; 1 skein
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US size #6/4mm needles for small circumference in the round
12 sts/17 Brioche Rows (34 worked rows) = 4 inches/10cm in brioche stitch
17 sts/24 Rows = 4 inches/10cm in St st, blocked
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The slippers are worked from heel to toe, switching from flat brioche, to knitting in the round at the half way mark.
For the Two-Color Italian Cast on, you can find a video and instructions here.
If you prefer, you can use a stretchy single-color CO like the Cable Cast On. If you do this, just attach the CC at the start of the second setup row.
Sl1yo: slip the next st purlwise, while creating a yarnover.
BRK: Brioche knit: knit the stitch and its accompanying yarnover together.
BRP: Brioche purl: purl the stitch and its accompanying yarnover together.
Double Decrease: Slip next (BRK) stitch knitwise, knit next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over. BRK the next stitch. Pass the last stitch over the stitch you just worked.
The first 4 rows are by far the hardest. Work slowly, and be careful not to drop, or twist any stitches.
As with any project worked in the round, ladders – loose stitches at the start of the needle can be a problem. And because of how brioche is worked you might find the problem a little worse than usual. If you’re working on DPNs, work the first stitch of a new needle with the end of the previous needle – this shifts the break in the needles. If you’re doing this, you’ll want to place a marker for the start of the round and make sure you keep careful track of it.
The ends of the rows: You are working a sl1yo stitch at the starts and ends of rows. When beginning a row with that starts with sl1yo keep your finger (or thumb) firmly on yarnover to prevent it from loosening; do not release it until the next three stitches have been worked.
When ending a row with a sl1yo, hold the yarn at the back of the needle as you turn, so that it’s in place when you start the following row.
Instructions for brioche grafting may be found here.
Leaving a 12-inch/30.5cm tail, CO 24[26, 28] stitches using the Italian Two-Color method.
Setup Row [MC, RS]: [Sl1yo, k1] to end of row. Do not turn, slide stitches to the other end of needle.
Continue in pattern below, starting with Row 1B [CC, RS]
Row 1A [MC, RS]: [Sl1yo, BRK] to end of row. Do not turn; slide sts to the other end of needle.
Row 1B [CC, RS]: [BRP, sl1yo] to end of row. Turn.
Row 2A [MC, WS]: [BRP, sl1yo] to end of row. Do not turn; slide sts to the other end of needle.
Row 2B [CC, WS]: [Sl1yo, BRK] to end of row. Turn.
Repeat last 4 rows colors until piece measures 4[4.5, 5] inches/ 10[11.5, 12.75] cm, ending after Row 2B [CC, WS].
Distribute sts over needles for working in the round, and proceed as follows:
Round 1 [MC]: [Sl1yo, BRK] to end, place marker
Round 2 [CC]: [BRP, sl1yo] to end.
Repeat until slipper measures 7[8, 9] inches/ 17.5[20.5, 23] cm, ending with Round 2 [CC]
Next round, decrease [MC]: [Sl1yo, BRK] 3 times, sl1yo, work Double Decrease, [sl1yo, BRK] 2[3, 4] times, sl1yo, work Double Decrease, [sl1yo, BRK] 3 times 20[22, 24] sts rem.
Work 3 rounds even, starting with Round 2.
Next round, decrease [MC]: [Sl1yo, BRK] 2 times, sl1yo, work Double Decrease, [sl1yo, BRK] 2[3, 4] times, sl1yo, work Double Decrease, [sl1yo, BRK] 2 times 16[18, 20] sts rem.
Work two more rounds in pattern, starting with Round 2. Slippers should measure 8.25[9.25, 10.25] inches/ 21[23.5, 26] cm from CO edge.
Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch/ 30.5cm tail with each color and graft toe together.
Block slippers. Sew together the heel with the cast on tail and weave in all loose ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Destiny enjoys all outdoor activities, especially camping, hiking, taking long walks on warm summer days, and, of course, knitting on the patio. During winter she only knits inside the house.
Destiny can be found on Ravelry.
Pattern & images © 2016 Destiny. Contact Destiny