Glaswegian

Glaswegian Cardigan, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a lighter-than-air Icelandic colorwork cardigan.

INTRODUCTION

Glaswegian

beauty shotby

Tangy

The Glaswegian sweater is named for an unexpected detour taken on the road to Shetland.  This sweater was knit on while traveling on a 13 day trip to Scotland. I left with the stitches for the body and a sleeve cast on and carried it with me everywhere I went for 11 days- on planes and trains, on ferries and in cars. Plötulopi is a perfect travel companion, the cakes of yarn weigh practically nothing, and they smoosh down nicely into a suitcase as well. The ample yardage meant that even when the 2nd sleeve was lost on an airplane (mid sleeve) there was more then enough yarn to knit a 3rd… And a knitting bag stuffed with all the cakes doubles nicely as a pillow during long layovers and unexpected detours. Long stretches of stockinette stitch for the body and sleeves make for a pleasant companion for watching scenery roll by on the road. The finished garment dried in no time making it possible to wear on the return trip home.

Knitting with Plötulopi is a little different then traditional yarns- its an unspun roving which means that it will pull apart easily but it goes back together just as easily: Place both ends in the palm of your hand and rub your palms together quickly as though you're trying to warm them up. It's the same technique as the 'spit-splice' but no spit is required. The Icelandic wool likes to stick to itself and the resulting knitting is light as feather, strong as any plied yarn and softer with every wash and wear.

The sharp-eyed will notice that though the pattern includes instructions for adding buttonhole, this sweater doesn’t have buttons. On the 12th day the sweater was finished but had no buttons, I had hoped to finish it while still in Scotland and I was determined to photograph it there, and I did! Even without buttons… I’m still hunting for the perfect button and hope to have them sewn on in time to take the sweater with me on my next adventures...

spacer model: Amy Christoffers

spacer photos: Thea Colman

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
Shown in size S with 1 inch/2.5 cm of ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust circumference: 34.5[37.5, 42, 46.5, 51.25, 55.75, 60.25] inches/ 87.5[95.5, 106.5, 118, 130, 141.5, 153] cm
Length: 22[22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24] inches/ 56[56, 58.5, 58.5, 61, 61, 61] cm

MATERIALS


Istex Plötulopi [100% new wool; 328 yd/300 m per 100 g skein]; color:
spacer [MC] 0098 'cadet blue'; 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] skeins
spacer [CC1] 0484 'forest green'; 1 skein
spacer [CC2] 1026 'light ash heather'; 1 skein
spacer [CC3] 1424 'golden'; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle, 36-inch/91 cm for hem, button band and collar
spacer 1 US #6/4mm circular needle, 36-inch/91 cm for body

spacer 1 set(s) US #5/3.75 mm preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round
spacer 1 set(s) US #6/4 mm preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round

Notions
spacer yarn needle
spacer stitch markers
spacer stitch holders or waste yarn
spacer 8 0.63 inch/15 mm buttons (or buttons to suit your preferred buttonhole method)

GAUGE

21 sts/30 rows = 4 inches/10cm in stockinette stitch on larger needles after blocking

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

CHARTS

charts

DIRECTIONS

SLEEVES (make 2)
With CC1, and smaller needles, cast on 48[48, 48, 56, 56, 64, 64] sts. Place marker to indicate the beginning of the round and join for working in the round.

Set up Round [RS]: *K1, p1; rep from * to the end of the round.
Work in pattern as established for 2.5 inches/6.5 cm. Change to larger needles and being working Sleeve Chart. Work Rounds 1-10 once. Work 1 round with MC.

Increase Round: K1, M1L, work to the end of the round, M1R. 2 sts increased.
Rep the Increase Round every 12th[10th, 10th, 10th, 8th, 8th, 6th] round 6[7, 9, 7, 10, 10, 12] more times. 62[64, 68, 72, 78, 86, 90] sts.

Continue working in stockinette stitch with MC until sleeve measures 18 inches/45.5 cm, or desired length to underarm.
On the last round, stop 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] stitches before the end of the round. Slip the next 8[10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20] stitches onto waste yarn for underarm, and place the remaining 54[54, 56, 58, 62, 68, 70] stitches on a holder or waste yarn.

BODY
With CC1, and smaller needles, cast on 175[191, 211, 231, 251, 271, 311] sts. Do not join.

Set up row [WS]: P2, *k1, p1; rep from * to the last stitch, p1.
Next row [RS]: K2, *p1, k1: rep from * to the last stitch, k1.
Work in pattern as established for 2.5 inches/6.5 cm. Change to larger needles and begin working Hem Chart. Work Rows 1-10 once.

Continue working in stockinette stitch with MC until body measures 15 inches/38 cm or desired length to underarm.

YOKE
Join body and sleeves
Next row [RS]: K 40[43, 48, 53, 58, 63, 68] sts, slip the next 8[10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts onto waste yarn for underarm, place marker (pm), k 54[54, 56, 58, 60, 68, 70] held sleeve stitches, k 79[85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135] stitches for back, slip the next 8[10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts onto waste yarn for underarm, k 54[54, 56, 58, 60, 68, 70] held sleeve stitches, pm, knit to end. 267[279, 303, 327, 351, 387, 411] sts on the needles.

Purl 1 WS row.

Short row shaping:
Short Row 1 [RS]: Knit to the second marker, slip marker, w&t.
Short Row 2 [WS]: Slip m, purl to the next marker, w&t.
Short Row 3: Knit to the wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and work it together with its stitch, k5[5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9], w&t.
Short Row 4: Purl to the wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and work it together with its stitch, p 5[5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 7] , w&t.

Rep Short Rows 3-4 3 more times.

Next row [RS]: Knit to the wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and work it together with its stitch, knit to the end of the row.

Next row [WS]: Purl to the wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and work it together with its stitch, purl to the end of the row.

Begin working in pattern from the Yoke Chart. Work as indicated for your size through Row 39 (skipping rows as indicated for sizes XS, S, M, & L). 91[95, 103, 111, 119, 131, 139] sts remain.

Sizes L[1X, 2X, 3X] only:
Next row [RS]: With C1, * k-[-, -, 14, 6, 4, 4] sts, k2tog; rep from * -[-, -, 5, 13, 21, 25] more times more, knit to end. Bind off remaining 91[95, 103, 105, 105, 109, 113] sts.

FINISHING

Place the held underarm stitches onto needles and with yarn threaded on a yarn needle, graft the underarms using Kitchener stitch.

Button band
With smaller needles and C1, with RS facing, beginning at the Left front bound off edge, pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows down the left front. The exact stitch count is not critical but you must end with an even number of stitches.

Set up row [WS]: P2, *k1, p1; rep from * to the end of the row.
Work in pattern as established for 7 rows. Bind off in pattern.

Mark placement for 8 buttons evenly spaced starting 0.75 inch/2 cm above the hem edge and ending 0.5 inch/1.5 cm from the neck edge.

Buttonhole band
Note: The sample used a 'k2 tog, yo' buttonhole. Use the buttonhole method of your choice.

With smaller needles and C1 with RS facing, beginning at the lower right front cast on edge, pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows down the right front. The exact stitch count is not critical but you must end with the same number of stitches as for the button band.

Set up row [WS]: P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to the last st, p1.
Work in 1x1 rib as established for 3 rows.

Next row [WS]: Work buttonholes to correspond with marked button placement.
Work 3 rows more in rib. Bind off in rib.

Neckband
With smaller needles and C1, with RS facing, beginning at the right button band corner, pick up and knit 5 stitches across the button band, 1 stitch for each bound off stitch across the neck, then 5 stitches across the left button band. 101[105, 113, 115, 115, 119, 123] sts.

Set up row [WS]: *P1, k1, rep from * to the last stitch, p1.

Next row [RS]: Work in rib to 2 stitches before the end of the row, w&t.
Next row [WS]: Work in rib to 2 stitches before the end of the row, w&t

Next row: Work in rib to 2 stitches before the w&t, w&t.
Next row: Work in rib to 2 stitches before the w&t, w&t

Rep the last 2 rows twice more.

Next row: Work in rib to the end of the row, picking up the wraps and working them together with their stitches.

Next row: Bind off in rib.

Weave in ends, sew on buttons, block as desired.

schematic

SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS
A: body circumference: 34.5[37.5, 42, 46.5, 51.25, 55.75, 60.25] inches/87.5[95.5, 106.5, 118, 130, 141.5, 153] cm
B: back neck to hem length: 22[22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24] inches/56[56, 58.5, 58.5, 61, 61, 61] cm
C: length to underam: 15 inches/38 cm
D: sleeve length: 18 inches/45.5 cm
E: upper arm circumference: 11.75[12.25, 13, 13.75, 14.75, 16.5, 17.25]/ 30[31, 33, 35, 37.5, 42, 44] cm
F: wrist circumference: 9.25[9.25, 9.25, 10.5, 10.5, 12.25, 12.25]/23.5 [23.5, 23.5, 26.5, 26.5, 31, 31] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Amy Christoffers is the design director at Berroco, the US distributor of Istex yarns from Iceland. Amy is also the designer of Savory Knitting patterns, a mother of one, and a collector of buttons.

Pattern & images © 2017 Amy Christoffers.