Habanero : Knitty.com - Deep Fall 2017

Habanero

Habanero Cardigan, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a tunic-length cardigan with lace detailing.

INTRODUCTION

Habanero

beauty shot

Piquant

Habanero, my 7th(!) pattern for Knitty, lays on the heat in a chunky, squishy wool from Lorna's Laces.

My very first design for Knitty, Serrano, was a top down, fitted, laceweight cardigan. Habanero shares a few traits with Serrano: seamless construction, lace, and fiery red color. Worked from the top down, Habanero starts out simply with raglan shaping and a deep V-neck. Things get interesting with fitted waist shaping that flares out over the hips, incorporating dart increases and an easy to knit (but high impact!) triangular lace panel at each side.

Long sleeves are worked in the round down to the cuff, with a pretty touch of the body lace repeated at the wrist. The garter stitch buttonband is picked up and worked flat at the end, and is perfect for your stash of chunky buttons.

spacer model: Laura Chau

spacer photos: Dale Harrison

Print Essentials Print Everything

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
Shown in L with 1.5 inches / 4 cm ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 36.25[39.5, 42, 45.25, 47.5, 51, 55.5, 59] inches / 92[100.5, 106.5, 115, 120.5, 129.5, 141, 150] cm
Bust, 1 inch/2.5 cm overlap: 34.75[38.25, 40.5, 43.75, 46.25, 49.5, 53.5, 57.5] inches / 88.5[97, 103, 111, 117.5, 125.5, 136, 146] cm
Length from shoulder: 28[28.5, 28.75, 29.25, 29.5, 30.5, 30.75, 31.25] inches / 71[72.5, 73, 74.5, 75, 77.5, 78, 79.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
spacer Lorna's Laces Cloudgate [90% superwash merino wool; 120 yd / 109 m per 3.5 oz / 100 g skein]; color: Lava Flow, 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 US#10.5/6.5mm circular needle, 32-inch/80cm or longer, or size needed to obtain gauge
spacer 1 US#10.5/6.5mm circular needle, 16-inch/40 cm
spacer 1 US#10.5/6.5 mm double pointed needles

Notions
spacer yarn needle
spacer stitch markers
spacer waste yarn or stitch holders
spacer 7 buttons, 1.25 inch / 35mm diameter

GAUGE

14 sts/20 rows/rounds = 4 inches/10cm square in Stockinette stitch
14 sts/40 rows/rounds = 4 inches/10cm square in Garter stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Body is worked flat from the top down. Deep V-neck shaping extends below the armhole split. Decreases to the waist are worked at the sides of the body, while increases for the hips are placed at the center front and back dart lines. Side lace panels begin at the waist and continue to hem. Sleeves are worked in the round from the top down.

CHARTS

Download the chart here.

Body Chart
Row 1 [RS]: K3, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 5: K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
Rows 7-12: Rep Rows 1-6.

Row 13: K3, yo, ssk, k8, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 15: K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 17: K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
Rows 19-24: Rep Rows 13-18.

Row 25: *K3, yo, ssk, k5; rep from * once, k3, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 27: *K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; rep from * once, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 29: *K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * once, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
Rows 31-36: Rep Rows 25-30.

Row 37: *K3, yo, ssk, k5; rep from * twice, k3, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 39: *K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; rep from * twice, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 41: *K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * twice, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
Rows 43-48: Rep Rows 37-42.

Row 49: *K3, yo, ssk, k5; rep from * three times, k3, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 51: *K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; rep from * three times, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 53: *K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * three times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
Rows 55-60: Rep Rows 49-54.

Row 61: *K3, yo, ssk, k5; rep from * four times, k3, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 63: *K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; rep from * four times, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 65: *K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * four times, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
Rows 61-71: Rep Rows 61-65.

Sleeve Chart
Round 1: K8, yo, ssk, k7.
Round 2 and even rows: Knit.
Round 3: K6, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k6.
Round 5: K5, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k5.
Round 7: K3, yo, ssk, k8, yo, ssk, k2.
Round 9: K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
Round 11: K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.

DIRECTIONS

YOKE AND BODY
With longest circular needles, CO 2 sts for front, pm, CO 8[6, 6, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2] sts for sleeve, pm, CO 22[22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28] sts for back, pm, CO 8[6, 6, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2] sts for sleeve, pm, CO 2 sts for front. 42[38, 40, 36, 38, 34, 36, 36] sts.

Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row.

Note: Neck and Raglan shaping are worked simultaneously. Read ahead.

Neck Shaping Row [RS]: K1, m1L, work to last st, m1R, k1. 2 sts inc'd.
Work Neck Shaping Row every 4th row 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13] times total.

AT THE SAME TIME, Shape Raglan:
Raglan Inc Row [RS]: *Knit to m, m1R, sl m, k1, m1L, knit to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sl m, m1L; rep from * once more. 8 sts inc'd.
Work Raglan Inc Row every 4th row 3[1, 2, 0, 1, 1, 0, 0] times total.
Work Raglan Inc Row every RS row 11[16, 15, 20, 19, 21, 25, 27] times total. 170[192, 194, 216, 218, 232, 260, 278] sts: 24[28, 28, 32, 32, 35, 39, 42] sts on each front, 50[56, 58, 64, 66, 70, 78, 82] sts on back, 36[40, 40, 44, 44, 46, 52, 56] sts on each sleeve.

Divide for Body
While dividing for Body, continue working Neck Shaping as set at front edges every 4th row 2[1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 1, 0] more times.
Dividing Row [RS]: *Work to m and remove it, slip next 36[40, 40, 44, 44, 46, 52, 56] sleeve sts to waste yarn. CO 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts, pm for underarm, CO 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts; rep from * once more. Work to end of row.
Work even in St st for 5 rows.
When neck shaping is complete, there will be 118[130, 138, 150, 158, 170, 186, 198] sts: 30[33, 35, 38, 40, 43, 47, 50] sts for each front and 58[64, 68, 74, 78, 84, 92, 98] sts for back.

Waist Shaping
Waist Dec Row [RS]: *Work to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog; rep from * once more, work to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Work 5 rows even.
Rep last 6 rows 4 times more. 98[110, 118, 130, 138, 150, 166, 178] sts: 25[28, 30, 33, 35, 38, 42, 45] sts for each front, 48[54, 58, 64, 68, 74, 82, 88] sts for back.

Set up for Lower Body:
Next Row [RS]: K 8[8, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12] sts, pm for front shaping, work to 4 sts before side m. Pm for lace insert, k7 (removing side m), pm. Work 13[15, 17, 19, 20, 22, 25, 27] sts, pm for back shaping, work 16[18, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] sts, pm for back shaping. Work 13[15, 17, 19, 20, 22, 25, 27] sts to 3 sts before side m. Pm for lace insert, k7 (removing side m), pm. Work to last 8[8, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12] sts, pm for front shaping, work to end.

Work 1 WS row even.

Hip Shaping and Lace Insert
Note: Hip Shaping and Lace Insert are worked at the same time. Read ahead.
Hip Inc Row [RS]: Work to right front shaping m, sl m, m1L. Work to back shaping m, m1R, sl m, work to next back shaping m, sl m, m1L. Work to left front shaping marker, m1R, sl m, work to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Rep Hip Inc Row every 6th row 12 times total.

AT THE SAME TIME, work Lace Insert from chart or written instructions (note that the chart shows RS rows ONLY; all WS rows are purled)

Next Row [RS]: *Work to lace insert marker, sl m, work 7 sts of Row 1 of Lace Insert, sl m; rep from * once more, work to end.

Continue working in pattern as set (including hip increases) through Row 12.
Row 13 [RS]: *Work to 5 sts before lace insert marker, pm, work 17 sts from Lace Insert removing previous lace markers, pm; rep from * once more, work to end.
Continue in this manner, moving the lace insert markers 5 stitches outward every 12 rows as shown on the chart, through Row 71 of chart.

When all hip shaping is complete, there will be 146[158, 166, 178, 186, 198, 214, 226] sts.

Hem
Next Row [WS]: Purl to end, removing all markers.
Knit 10 rows. Bind off.

SLEEVES (make 2)
Place 36[40, 40, 44, 44, 46, 52, 56] held sleeve sts onto shorter circular needle. Rejoin yarn, pick up and knit 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts, pm, pick up and knit 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts, knit to end of round. 46[50, 52, 56, 58, 62, 68, 74] sts.

Next Round: K 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts, ssk, k to last 6[6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10] sts of round, k2tog, k to end. 2 sts dec'd. 44[48, 50, 54, 56, 60, 66, 72] sts.

Work 9[7, 7, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4] rounds even.
Sleeve Dec Round: K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts of round, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Rep last 10[8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4] rounds 7[9, 9, 11, 11, 12, 14, 17] more times.
28[28, 30, 30, 32, 34, 36, 36] sts rem.

Work 4[6, 6, 6, 6, 2, 5, 8] rounds even in St st.

Left Sleeve Cuff Detail
Next Round: K 11[11, 13, 13, 15, 17, 19, 19] sts, pm, work Round 1 of Sleeve pattern over next 17 sts to end of round (note that the chart shows odd rounds only, all even rounds are knit).
Continue through Round 11 of Sleeve pattern.

[Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round] twice. Bind off all sts knitwise.

Right Sleeve Cuff Detail
Next Round: Work Round 1 of Sleeve Chart over next 17 sts, pm, work to end.
Continue through Round 11 of Sleeve Chart.
[Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round] twice. Bind off all sts knitwise.

FINISHING

Collar and Buttonband
With longest circular needle and RS facing, begin at right front hem edge.
Pick up and knit 72 sts along straight right front edge, pm, pick up and knit about 21[23, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32] sts along shaped right front edge, pick up and knit about 34[30, 32, 30, 30, 28, 30, 30] sts around neck, pick up and knit about 21[23, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32] sts along shaped front left edge, pm, pick up and knit 72 sts along straight left front edge.
Approximately 220[220, 224, 224, 228, 230, 236, 238] sts.

Knit 3 rows.
Buttonhole Row [RS]: Work 5 sts. *Work 3 st buttonhole, work 7 sts. Rep from * 5 times, work buttonhole, work to end.
Knit 5 rows. Bind off.

Weave in ends and block. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

schematic

SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS
A: Bust Circumference (excluding bands): 33.75[37.25, 39.5, 42.75, 45.25, 48.5, 53.5, 56.5] inches / 85.5[94, 100.5, 108.5, 114.5, 123, 134.5, 143.5] cm
B: Waist Circumference (excluding bands): 28[31.5, 33.75, 37.25, 39.5, 42.75, 47.5, 50.75] inches / 71[80, 85.5, 94.5, 100.5, 108.5, 120.5, 129] cm
C: Hip Circumference (excluding bands): 41.75[45.25, 47.5, 50.75, 53.25, 56.5, 61.25, 64.5] inches / 106[115, 120.5, 129, 135.5, 143.5, 155.5, 164] cm
D: Raglan Depth: 6.75[7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9.25, 10, 10.75] inches / 17[18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5] cm
E: Underarm to Waist: 6.75 inches / 15 cm
F: Waist to Hem: 22[22.5, 22.75, 23.25, 23.75, 24.5, 25.25, 26] inches / 56[57.5, 58.5, 59.5, 60.5, 62.5, 64.5, 66.5] cm
G: Length from Back Neck to Hem: 28[28.5, 28.75, 29.25, 29.75, 30.5, 31.25, 32] inches / 71[72.5, 73.5, 74.5, 75.5, 77.5, 79.5, 81.5] cm
H: Back Neck Width: 6.25[6.25, 6.75, 6.75, 7.5, 7.5, 8, 8] inches / 16[16, 17.5, 17.5, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5] cm
I: Upper Sleeve Circumference: 13.25[14.25, 14.75, 16, 16.5, 17.75, 19.5, 21.25] inches / 33.5[36, 37.5, 40.5, 42, 45, 49.5, 54] cm
J: Cuff Circumference: 8[8, 8.5, 8.5, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.25] inches / 20.5[20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25, 26, 26] cm
K: Sleeve Length from Underarm: 18.25[18.25, 18.25, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19] inches / 46.5[46.5, 46.5, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5] cm
L: Body Length from Underarm: 21.25 inches / 54 cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernameLaura Chau has been designing knitwear for over 10 years after getting her start in Knitty. Her work has appeared in numerous publications (including several for Knitty) in addition to self-publishing on Ravelry, and she is the author of Teach Yourself Visually Sock Knitting.

When not knitting, she can be found cooking, reading, gardening, and trying to sew. She lives in Toronto. Find her at Ravelry, on Twitter, Instagram, or her website.

Pattern & images © 2017 Laura Chau.