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  Schaefer


by Laura Chau

Like the chili pepper of the same name, Serrano is just the thing to warm you up on a cool fall day. Keep wearing those summer tanks and tees a little longer this year, with a light and lacy cardigan.

This updated take on the classic lace cardigan features easy and neat knit-in hems and bands, split sleeve detail, tailored shape and a lace pattern with punch. Although the yarn is fine, Serrano knits up fast in the easy-to-memorize Flame Chevron pattern from Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. The body is knit in one piece, bands and all, up to the armscye before splitting for the fronts and back, leaving you with fewer seams to sew. Hook and eye tape along the front bands stabilizes the edges and completes the sleek bodice.

Knit in a wool/mohair sock yarn with fabulous yardage, Serrano is feather-light and even machine washable. Work up a size with 1-2 inches of negative ease for a fitted garment, zero or positive ease of 1-2 inches for a more loose layering piece. Don't be afraid if it looks small off the needles -- a good blocking opens up the lace pattern and brings the garment to full size.

model: Laura Chau photos: Alexis DaSilva-Powell
SIZE

XS[S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL]
Shown in size S on a 36-inch bust.
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58] inches
Length: 20[21, 21.5, 22, 23, 24, 24.5, 25.5] inches
 
MATERIALS
Schaefer Yarns Anne [60% superwash merino wool, 25% mohair, 15% nylon; 560yd/512m per 4 oz skein]; color: Clara Barton; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] skeins

1 24- or 36-inch US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle
1 24- or 36-inch US #2.5/3mm circular needle
1 spare circular needle, US #2.5/3mm or smaller
Crochet hook
4 stitch markers
Smooth waste yarn (mercerized cotton works well)
Stitch holders (optional)
Tapestry needle
0.5 m hook and eye tape
 
GAUGE

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles, unblocked
21 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked
 
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
Blocking is crucial to this project. It will appear very, very small until blocked!
A note about working with hand-dyed yarns -- to avoid colour pooling or mismatching pieces, always alternate between two skeins every two rows. Don't cut the yarn between; simply twist the yarns together at each change.

Maintaining stitch pattern when shaping:
When there are not enough stitches to complete both a yo and its paired decrease, work these stitches in stockinette stitch. This will happen when stitches are decreased or increased, when shaping waist, armhole, neckline and sleeve cap.

When slipping stitches for facings, slip as if to purl with yarn in back.

Stitches are held on waste yarn until after blocking so that there is sufficient elasticity for the fabric to expand during blocking. Stitches are bound off after blocking.

Wet Blocking and Steam Blocking:
Information about wet blocking and steam blocking can be found here and here.

Crochet Cast On
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each ch until the required number of sts have been worked. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up.
Note: If you prefer, another provisional cast on may be used instead of the Crochet Cast On.

Flame Chevron Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 7 sts + 4):
Only RS rows are shown on the chart. When working WS rows, p all sts.

adapted from Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.

*Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*

Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

Grafting
Instructions for grafting can be found here.

Sewing
Instructions for Mattress Stitch can be found here.
Instructions for Slip Stitch can be found here.
Instructions for Overcast Stitch and Running Stitch can be found here.

Notes about working Short Rows:

Wrap & Turn [W&T]
To wrap and turn on a RS row, knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.

To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:

When working rows which follow short rows, work the "wraps" at the turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap, as follows:

When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, insert left needle into both wrap and stitch, and knit them together.

When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, slip both wrap and stitch back to left needle, purl together through back loops.
DIRECTIONS

Body

Hem
Using smaller needle and Crochet Cast On, CO 156[177, 198, 219, 240, 261, 282, 303] sts.

Starting with a p row, work 9 rows in stockinette st.

Turning Row [RS]: P all sts.

Work 9 more rows in stockinette st.

Remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting live sts on spare needle.

Fold work along Turning Row, so that wrong sides are together. Hold work so that the sts of the CO edge are at the back, and the sts on the working needle are facing you, ready to work a RS row.

Next Row [RS]: [K 1 st from front needle together with 1 st from back needle] to end. Hem is complete.

Note: The stitches cast on at either end of the next row form facings for the front bands. They will be sewn down during the finishing process. The six stitches adjacent to the six facing stitches at each end of the row, form the front bands.

Begin using larger needles on next row, and continue with these needles until Body is complete.

Set-up Row [WS]: CO 6 sts, p12 (6 newly cast on sts and next 6 sts), place marker, p33[38, 43, 49, 54, 59, 65, 70], place marker, p78[89, 100, 109, 120, 131, 140, 151], place marker, p33[38, 43, 49, 54, 59, 65, 70], place marker, p last 6 sts, CO 6 sts. 168[189, 210, 231, 252, 273, 294, 315] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K6, sl 1, k5, work Flame Chevron Pattern to last marker, k5, sl 1, k6.
Row 2 [RS]: P all sts.
Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 3[3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Waist:
Note: See note in Pattern Notes re. maintaining stitch pattern when shaping.

Waist Decrease Row: K6, sl 1, k5, [work in patt to 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k2, ssk] twice, work in patt as set to end. 4 sts decreased.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5] rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 5 times more. Work measures approx. 5.5[5.75, 6, 6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7] inches. 144[165, 186, 207, 228, 249, 270, 291] sts.

Work 8 rows in patt as set.

Waist Increase Row: K6, sl 1, k5, [work in patt to 2 sts before next marker, m1, k4, m1] twice, work in patt as set to end. 4 sts increased.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5] rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 5 times more. 168[189, 210, 231, 252, 273, 294, 315] sts.

Continue in patt until work measures 11.5[12, 12.5, 12.5, 12.75, 13.25, 13.75, 14.25] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes and Neckline:
Remove markers when working next row.

Next Row [RS]: K6, sl 1, k5, place 12 sts just worked on hold on waste yarn, [work in patt to 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14] sts before side marker, BO next 8[10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 28] sts] twice, work in patt to last marker, place rem 12 sts on hold on waste yarn.

29[33, 37, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56] sts remain for each Front, 70[79, 88, 95, 104, 111, 116, 123] sts remain for Back. Yarn is attached to sts of Left Front; place sts for Back and Right Front on hold on waste yarn or stitch holders.

Left Front:
P 1 row.
Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping and Neckline shaping are worked at the same time.

Shape Armhole:
Next Row [RS]: BO 1[2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts, work in patt to end.
P 1 row.

Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME, shape Neckline as follows:

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 5[5, 5, 3, 3, 5, 3, 3] rows in patt.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 4, 4, 6, 4, 4] rows 8[9, 9, 0, 0, 9, 5, 9] times more.

Sizes L, XL, 3XL and 4XL Only:
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows -[-, -, 9, 9, -, 7, 5] times more.

All Sizes:
18[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 26] sts remain.
Cont in patt as set until work measures 6.25[6.75, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5] inches from first armhole BO row, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Note: See notes in Pattern Notes above about working short rows.

P14[14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 20, 20], W&T. Work in patt to end.
P10[10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14], W&T. Work in patt to end.
P6[6, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7], W&T. Work in patt to end.
P 1 row, picking up wraps and working them together with the sts they had wrapped. Break yarn, leaving a long tail, and place all sts on hold on waste yarn.

Right Front:
Replace held sts of Right Front on needle with WS facing, and reattach yarn.

Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping and Neckline shaping are worked at the same time.

Shape Armhole:
Next Row [WS]: BO 1[2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts, p to end.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME, shape Neckline as follows:

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 5[5, 5, 3, 3, 5, 3, 3] rows in patt.
Repeat these 6[6, 6, 4, 4, 6, 4, 4] rows 8[9, 9, 0, 0, 9, 5, 9] times more.

Sizes L, XL, 3XL and 4XL Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 5 rows in patt.
Repeat these 6 rows -[-, -, 9, 9, -, 7, 5] times more.

All Sizes:
18[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 26] sts remain.
Cont in patt as set until work measures 6.25[6.75, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5] inches from first armhole BO row, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Note: See notes in Pattern Notes above about working short rows.

Work 14[14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts in patt, W&T. P to end.
Work 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] sts in patt, W&T. P to end.
Work P6[6, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts in patt, W&T. P to end.
K 1 row, picking up wraps and working them together with the sts they had wrapped. Break yarn, leaving a long tail, and place all sts on hold on waste yarn.

Back
Replace held sts of Back on needle with WS facing, and reattach yarn.
P 1 row.
BO 1[2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4] times more. 66[69, 74, 77, 82, 85, 90, 95] sts remain.

Cont in patt until work measures 6.25[6.75, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5] inches from first armhole BO row, ending with a WS row.

Shape Right Shoulder:
Next Row [RS]: Work 18[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 26] sts in patt; place next 30[33, 34, 33, 34, 33, 38, 43] sts on hold on waste yarn, place remaining 18[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 26] sts on hold on spare needle. Turn work.

P14[14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 20, 20], W&T. Work in patt to end.
P10[10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14], W&T. Work in patt to end.
P6[6, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7], W&T. Work in patt to end.
P 1 row, picking up wraps and working them together with the sts they had wrapped. Break yarn, leaving a long tail, and place all sts on hold on waste yarn.
Reattach yarn to 18[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 26] held sts of Left Shoulder, with RS facing.
Work 14[14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts in patt, W&T. P to end.
Work 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] sts in patt, W&T. P to end.
Work P6[6, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts in patt, W&T. P to end.
K 1 row, picking up wraps and working them together with the sts they had wrapped. Break yarn, leaving a long tail, and place all sts on hold on waste yarn.

Sleeves (Make 2)
Note: The cuffs are worked in two halves. Hems and facings are worked for each cuff half in the same way they were worked for the body.

Left Half of Cuff:
*Using smaller needle and Crochet Cast On, CO 27[29, 30, 30, 33, 33, 34, 34] sts.
Starting with a p row, work 9 rows in stockinette st.

Turning Row [RS]: P all sts.
Work 9 more rows in stockinette st.

Remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting live sts on spare needle.

Fold work along Turning Row, so that wrong sides are together. Hold work so that the sts of the CO edge are at the back, and the sts on the working needle are facing you, ready to work a RS row.

Next Row [RS]: [K 1 st from front needle together with 1 st from back needle] to end. Hem is complete.

Begin using larger needles on next row.*
Next Row [WS]: P to end, CO 3 sts. 30[32, 33, 33, 36, 36, 37, 37] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K3, sl 1, k3; work next 18[25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25] sts in Flame Chevron pattern, k to end.
P 1 row.
Continuing in pattern as set by these 2 rows, work 17[21, 21, 21, 25, 25, 25, 25] more rows.

Next Row [WS]: P25[27, 28, 28, 31, 31, 32, 32], BO rem 5 sts. Break yarn, draw through last st and pull tight. Place all sts on hold on spare needle.

Right Half of Cuff:
Work from * to * as for Left Half.
Next Row [WS]: CO 3 sts, p to end. 30[32, 33, 33, 36, 36, 37, 37] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K5[0, 1, 1, 4, 4, 5, 5] work next 18[25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25] sts in Flame Chevron pattern, k3, sl 1, k3.
P 1 row.
Continuing in pattern as set by these 2 rows, work 17[21, 21, 21, 25, 25, 25, 25] more rows.

Next Row [WS]: BO 5 sts, p to end.

Join Cuff Halves:
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt as set to last st, k last st of Right Half together with first st of Left Half, work in patt to end. 49[53, 55, 55, 61, 61, 63, 63] sts.
P 1 row.

Next Row [RS]: K5[0, 1, 1, 4, 4, 5, 5], work next 39[53, 53, 53, 53, 53, 53, 53] sts in patt, working an additional pattern repeat over the 7 stockinette sts in the center of the sleeve; k rem 5[0, 1, 1, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts.

Work in patt as set until work measures 8[8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 8.75, 8.75, 8.75] inches, ending with a WS row.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt to last st, m1, k1.
Work 5[7, 7, 5, 7, 5, 3, 3] rows, working new sts into patt.
Repeat these 6[8, 8, 6, 8, 6, 4, 4] rows 9[8, 7, 9, 7, 10, 13, 16] times more.
69[71, 71, 75, 77, 83, 91, 97] sts.

Continue in patt until work measures 16[17, 17, 17, 17.25, 17.25, 17.25, 17.25] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14] sts at beg of next two rows.
BO 1[2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts at beg of next two rows.
59[57, 51, 49, 47, 45, 49, 51] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 3[3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5] rows in patt.
Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 0[3, 7, 9, 0, 4, 1, 1] times more.

57[49, 35, 29, 45, 35, 45, 47] sts.

Work Decrease Row.
Work 1[1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows in patt.
Repeat these 2[2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 19[15, 7, 4, 11, 6, 10, 11] times more.
17[17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 23, 23] sts.

BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Place remaining 13[13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19] sts on hold on waste yarn.

FINISHING

Wet block all pieces to measurements given in schematic. Links to directions for wet blocking can be found in the Pattern Notes above. Do not skip this step! Blocking is very important to the success of this piece.

After piece is completely dry, loosely bind off sts at tops of sleeve caps and back of neck. Join shoulder seams using Three-Needle Bind Off.

Using Mattress Stitch, sew sleeve seams, then sew sleeves into armholes.

Fold cuff facings along fold line formed by slipped sts, to inside of sleeve. Lightly steam block folds, then sew facings in place using Slip Stitch. Sew small gaps at edges of sleeve hems closed, using Overcast Stitch.

Collar
Replace held sts of right front facing on needle with RS facing, and reattach yarn.

Work in patt until work, when slightly stretched, is long enough to go around neckline and meet held sts of left front facing. Graft to sts of left front facing.

Fold facing to inside along fold line and lightly steam block.

Using Mattress Stitch, sew collar and collar facing to neckline of sweater. Slip stitch front facings to inside of sweater. Sew small gaps at edges of hems closed, using Overcast Stitch.

Hook and Eye Tape
Fasten hook and eye tape and pin into front opening of sweater. Baste, then sew to facing, close to edge, using doubled thread and a short running stitch. Secure inner edge of tape to facing using Slip Stitch.

Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Laura Chau knits, dyes, spins, and is soon to weave in Toronto, Ontario. In her spare time, she is completing her H.B.Sc. at the University of Toronto and surrounds herself with yarn working at Lettuce Knit.

She chronicles it all at cosmicpluto knits!
Pattern & images © 2006 Laura Chau. Contact Laura