Knitty: L'illo - Fall 2008

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model: Luke

photos:Susan Power

by Susan Power

Little boys grow into men… that’s just a fact of life. However, while they are little boys, we can put them into any type of outfits we want and they can’t verbally protest except by means of crying. Luckily at that age, they aren’t self conscious about what they are wearing.

I was looking to use this woven stitch in a project. Originally, I was going to make a sweater for my dear husband but as it usually goes, he’s very particular with what he will and won’t wear (especially when it comes to necklines) so I decided to make this for my nephew instead.

I like the look of double-breasted sweaters. With this beautiful shade of blue, I paired with these wonderful off-white buttons that just pop. Because it’s a baby sweater, Cotton Glace was a good choice so that it could be tossed into the washing machine. It’s also got a nice sheen to it which makes the sweater a bit more than everyday play wear.

Wearing this jacket begs the question… is that a little boy or little man?

SIZE

6 months [12 months, 18 months, 24 months] (shown in size 18 months)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 20[23, 25, 27] inches
Length: 10[11, 12, 13.5] inches

MATERIALS

Rowan Cotton Glace [100% Cotton; 125yd/115m per 50g skein]; color: Sky; 4[4, 4, 5] skeins

Recommended needle size:

1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Stitch markers

Stitch holders or waste yarn

Row counter (optional)

Tapestry needle

3[4, 4, 4] buttons, 0.75 inch diameter

GAUGE

23 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
23 sts/44 rows = 4 inches in Pattern 1 and Pattern 2

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

w2tog: Work 2 sts together in pattern. Work k2tog if second st on right needle is a k st, or p2tog if second st on right needle is a p st.

w2tog tbl: Work 2 sts together through back loops, in pattern. Work k2tog tbl if next st on right needle is a k st, or p2tog tbl if next st on right needle is a p st.

Small Woven Pattern (Worked over an even number of sts)
Row 1 [RS]: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] to end.
Row 2 and 4 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: [K1, sl 1 wyif] to end.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.

Large Woven Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2)
Row 1 [RS]: K2, [sl 2 wyif, k2] to end.
Row 2 and 4 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 2 wyif, [k2, sl 2 wyif] to end.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.

2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2):
Row 1: K2, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 2: P2, [k2, p2] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for pattern.

Instructions for grafting can be found here.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
CO 58[66, 74, 78] sts.
Work in 2x2 Rib until work measures 1.5 inches, beginnning with a RS row and ending with a WS row.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st, increasing 2[2, 0, 2] sts in last row. 60[68, 74, 80] sts.

Set Pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: K1[1, 2, 1], work Row 1 of Small Woven Pattern over next 14[16, 18, 20] sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Large Woven Pattern over next 30[34, 34, 38] sts, place marker, work Row 3 of Small Woven Pattern over next 14[16, 18, 20] sts, k1[1, 2, 1].
Row 2 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: K1[1, 0, 1], work Row 3 of Small Woven Pattern to first marker, work Row 3 of Large Woven Pattern to second marker, work Row 1 of Small Woven Pattern to last 1[1, 0, 1] sts, k1[1, 0, 1].
Row 4 [WS]: P all sts.
These 4 rows set pattern for Back.

Continue in pattern as set until work measures 5[5.5, 6, 7] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, tbl, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 11[12, 13, 14] times more.

BO remaining 36[42, 46, 50] sts.

LEFT FRONT
Important: While working Left Front, keep track of rows.

Work buttonholes as described below on these rows:
6 months: Rows 9, 27, 45
12 months: Rows 9, 23, 37, 51
18 months: Rows 9, 25, 41, 57
24 months: Rows 11, 31, 49, 67

Buttonholes are worked as follows:
Buttonhole Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 4 sts, yo, work in pattern to end.
Next Row [WS]: Work 3 sts in pattern, p2tog, work in pattern to end.

CO 41[45, 49, 53] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: [K2, p2] to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, p4, [k2, p2] to end.
Row 3 [RS]: [K2, p2] to last 5 sts, k2, p2, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, bring yarn between needles to back of work, [k2, p2] to end.
These 4 rows set 2x2 Rib and edge pattern for left front.

Continue in rib as set until work measures 1.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Size 6 months Only:
Next Row [RS]: K10, k2tog, k10, place marker, work remaining 19 sts in 2x2 Rib as set. 40 sts.

Sizes 12 months, 24 months Only:
Next Row [RS]: K-[11, -, 13], m1, k-[11, -, 13], place marker, work remaining -[23, -, 27] sts in 2x2 Rib as set. -[46, -, 54] sts.

Size 18 months Only:
Next Row [RS]: k26, place marker, work remaining 23 sts in 2x2 Rib as set. 49 sts.

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, work in 2x2 Rib to marker, p to end.

Set Pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: K1[1, 2, 1], work Row 1 of Small Woven Pattern over next 14[16, 18, 20] sts, place marker, work Row 1 of Large Woven Pattern over next 6 sts, work in 2x2 Rib to end.
Continue in pattern as set until work measures 5[5.5, 6, 7] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, tbl, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4] times more. 38[43, 45, 49] sts.

Begin Collar Shaping:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog tbl, work in pattern to second marker, p1, w2tog, continue in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows three times more. 30[35, 37, 41] sts.

Shape Neckline:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog tbl, work in pattern to 2 sts before second marker, k2tog, p1, w2tog, continue in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows three times more, removing first marker. 18[23, 25, 29] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog tbl, work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, continue in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. 14[19, 21, 25] sts.

Next Row [RS]: BO 3[7, 8, 12] sts, work in pattern to end. 11[12, 13, 13] sts.

Collar:
Continue working remaining sts in pattern until collar measures 3.75[4.5, 5, 5.5] inches from BO edge. Place sts on st holder or waste yarn.

RIGHT FRONT
CO 41[45, 49, 53] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k4, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [P2, k2] to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, bring yarn between needles to front of work, [p2, k2] to end.
Row 4 [WS]: [P2, k2] to last st, p1.
These 4 rows set 2x2 Rib and edge pattern for right front.

Continue in rib as set until work measures 1.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Size 6 months Only:
Next Row [RS]: Work 19 sts in 2x2 Rib as set, place marker, k10, k2tog, k10. 40 sts.

Sizes 12 months, 24 months Only:
Next Row [RS]: Work -[23, -, 27] sts in 2x2 Rib as set, place marker, k-[11, -, 13], m1, k-[11, -, 13]. -[46, -, 54] sts.

Size 18 months Only:
Next Row [RS]: Work 23 sts in 2x2 Rib as set, place marker, k26. 49 sts.

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: P to marker, work in 2x2 Rib to end.

Set Pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, work Row 1 of Large Woven Pattern over next 6 sts, place marker, work Row 3 of Small Woven Pattern over next 14[16, 18, 20] sts, k1[1, 2, 1].
Continue in pattern as set until work measures 5[5.5, 6, 7] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan Armholes:
Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4] times more. 38[43, 45, 49] sts.

Begin Collar Shaping:
Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 3 sts before first marker, w2tog tbl, p1, continue in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows three times more. 30[35, 37, 41] sts.

Shape Neckline:
Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 3 sts before first marker, w2tog tbl, p1, k2tog tbl, continue in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows three times more, removing second marker. 18[23, 25, 29] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, k2tog tbl, continue in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. 14[19, 21, 25] sts.

Work 1 RS row in pattern.
Next Row [WS]: BO 3[7, 8, 12] sts, work in pattern to end. 11[12, 13, 13] sts.

Collar:
Continue working remaining sts in pattern until collar measures 3.75[4.5, 5, 5.5] inches from BO edge. Break yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Use this tail to graft sts to held sts of left front collar.

LEFT SLEEVE
**CO 26[30, 30, 34] sts.
Work in 2x2 Rib until work measures 1.5 inches, beginnning with a RS row and ending with a WS row.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st.

Sizes 6 months, 18 months, 24 months Only:
Set-up Row [RS]: K2, place marker, work Row 1 of Large Woven Pattern over next 22[-, 26, 30] sts, place marker, k2. This row sets pattern for sleeve.

Size 12 months Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, s 1 wyif, k1, place marker, work Large Woven Pattern over next 22 sts, place marker, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2. This row sets pattern for sleeve.

All Sizes:
P 1 row.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 3 rows in pattern, working increased sts in Small Woven Pattern and maintaining 1 st at each edge in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows 8[8, 11, 12] times more. 44[48, 54, 60] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 6[6.5, 7, 8.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan Sleeve Cap:
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, tbl, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 11[12, 13, 14] times more. 20[22, 26, 30] sts.**

Saddle Shoulder:
Work in pattern until saddle measures 0.5[1, 1, 1.75] inches, ending with a RS row.
Next Row [WS]: BO 10[11, 13, 15] sts, p to end. 10[11, 13, 15] sts.
Continue in pattern until saddle measures 3.25[3.75, 4, 4.5] inches (2.75[2.75, 3, 2.75] inches from BO row), ending with a RS row. Place sts on st holder or waste yarn.

RIGHT SLEEVE
Work as for Left Sleeve from ** to ** (until raglan shaping is complete).

Saddle Shoulder:
Work in pattern until saddle measures 0.5[1, 1, 1.75] inches, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 10[11, 13, 15] sts, work in pattern to end. 10[11, 13, 15] sts.
Continue in pattern until saddle measures 3.25[3.75, 4, 4.25] inches (2.75[2.75, 3, 2.5] inches from BO row), ending with a RS row. Break yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Use this tail to graft sts to held sts of left saddle.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block pieces.

Sew back and fronts to sleeves, sewing raglan edges together, then sewing edges of saddles to bound off edges of front and back necklines (see photos). Sew edge of collar to edges of saddles.

Sew buttons to right front, opposite buttonholes. Weave in any remaining ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Susan Power is the proud owner of Knit Therapy, a store that satisfies other knitters’ knitting habits, as well as her own. She lives with her loving husband who accepts and supports her knitting habit, and her lovely cat. She finds herself saying "I need knit therapy" at least once a day.

Check out her blog to see what she’s knitting and designing now.