Knitty: Morgan - Fall 2008

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models: Justin Smeets, Michelle Dinh, Anne K. Lukito, Derek Unger, Anna Kuo

photos: Anne K. Lukito, Anna Kuo, Rachel Suslow

by Anne Kuo Lukito

An Ivy cap, also known as an English driving cap, is a hat style that flatters almost everybody – even people who don't wear hats look a little more stylish when they wear this classic cap.

The problem is, I'd never come across a knitting pattern for one. In the name of creative sacrifice, I spent a couple nights thinking about ways to construct a driving cap pattern in lieu of sleep.
I quickly figured out why I had never come across a knitted version before – the construction of an Ivy cap is a far cry from the beanies that knitters are so used to.

My first sketch involved sewing together 2 or 3 different pieces, just as a sewn cap, but I just knew there had to be a better way. So, after a few deep breaths, and some serious test knitting, I am pleased to present Morgan, an authentically styled Ivy cap that is knit up in one piece and only requires the most minimal of grafting skills.

Morgan’s unique construction begins at the top of crown using invisible increases dispersed throughout each round. The rest of the hat is shaped using short rows and creating folds that resemble a sewn piping to give the hat extra detail and structure. The peak or bill of the hat is also worked in short rows and as one piece.

SIZE

M[L]
Fits head circumference up to 22.5[23.5] inches. A medium will fit most adult men and women.
Green hat is size L; beige hat is size M

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Length of crown at longest point: 10.5 inches;
Width of crown at widest point: 8.75 inches
Hat depth at center back: 4.25 inches
Hat depth at center front: 3 inches
Inner band circumference: 22[23] inches

MATERIALS

The Fibre Co. Savannah DK (50% Merino Wool, 20% Organic Cotton, 15% Linen, 15% Soya Fiber; 160yd/146m per 50g skein); color: Evergreen; 2 skeins

[Lighter hat shown in first picture:
SWTC Oasis (100% Soy Silk®; 240yd per 100g ball) color: #53 chocolate; 1[2] balls]

Recommended needle size:
2 US #6/4mm circular needles, 24 inches or longer
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Safety pin or split ring marker
Stitch markers
Waste yarn
Tapestry needle
2 sew-on snaps
Sewing needle and thread to match yarn
Heavy interfacing, buckram, cardboard, plastic or other stabilizer for the peak; see Peak Stabilizer section in Pattern Notes
Optional: Grosgrain ribbon or elastic (see finishing directions).

GAUGE

19 sts/31 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

This project is worked in the round using two circular needles. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, instructions may be found here.

M1R: Make 1 right-slanting knit stitch: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit into front of this stitch.
Note: You may prefer to work a Right Lifted Increase (RLI), as follows: Use the right needle to pick up the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle. Place it on the left needle, then knit into it. 1 stitch has been increased.

K3tog: Knit next 3 sts together.

Sssk: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Insert left needle into fronts of these 3 sts and knit them together.

Wrap & Turn [W&T]
To wrap and turn on a RS row, knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.
To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
Work the "wraps" at the turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap, as follows:
When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch, insert right needle into wrap and lift it over and behind wrapped stitch without removing it from left needle; knit wrap and stitch together through back loop.
When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch, use tip of left needle to pick up wrap from back (RS) of work, bring wrap over and to front of stitch without removing it from left needle; purl wrap and stitch together.

Grafting:
Instructions for grafting can be found here.

Peak Stabilizer
I prefer a more structured peak, so I recycled a thin, cheap plastic placemat for the peak. Plastic packaging also works. To shape the cut plastic into a curve, which forms a more attractive peak than a flat piece, I dipped the plastic insert in hot water with the aid of some tongs, and held it in the shape I wanted while cooling it with cold water.
A double layer of a heavy interfacing will give the peak a sturdy shape with less stiffness than a piece of plastic.

DIRECTIONS

CROWN
CO 8 sts. Place 4 sts on each needle and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. After the first 1 or 2 rounds, place safety pin or split ring marker in work to indicate beginning of round.

Note: Crown increases are planned in such a way that no regular lines of increases are formed.

Round 1: K all sts.
Round 2: [M1R, k2] four times. 12 sts.
Round 3: K1, m1R, [k3, m1R] three times, k2. 16 sts.
Round 4: K3, m1R, [k4, m1R] three times, k1. 20 sts.
Round 5: [K5, m1R] four times. 24 sts.
Round 6: K2, m1R, [k5, m1R] 4 times, k2. 29 sts.
Round 7: K4, m1R, [k7, m1R] three times, k4. 33 sts.
Round 8: K6, m1R, [k8, m1R] three times, k3. 37 sts.
Round 9: K8, m1R, [k9, m1R] three times, k2. 41 sts.
Round 10: [K10, m1R] four times, k1. 45 sts.
Round 11: [M1R, k9] five times. 50 sts.
Round 12: K3, m1R, [k13, m1R] three times, k8. 54 sts.
Round 13: K6, m1R, [k14, m1R] three times, k6. 58 sts.
Round 14: K9, m1R, [k15, m1R] three times, k4. 62 sts.
Round 15: K12, m1R, [k16, m1R] three times, k2. 66 sts.
Round 16: [M1R, k13] four times, m1R, k14. 71 sts.
Round 17: K4, m1R, [k17, m1R] three times, k16. 75 sts.
Round 18: K8, m1R, [k18, m1R] three times, k13. 79 sts.
Round 19: K12, m1R, [k19, m1R] three times, k10. 83 sts.
Round 20: K16, m1R, [k20, m1R] three times, k7. 87 sts.
Round 21: K5, [m1R, k18] twice, [m1R, k17] twice, m1R, k12. 92 sts.
Round 22: K10, m1R, [k23, m1R] three times, k13. 96 sts
Round 23: K15, m1R, [k24, m1R] three times, k9. 100 sts.
Round 24: K20, m1R, [k25, m1R] three times, k5. 104 sts.
Round 25: K25, m1R, [k26, m1R] three times, k1. 108 sts.
Round 26: [M1R, k18] six times. 114 sts.
Round 27: K6, m1R, [k28, m1R] three times, k24 sts. 118 sts.
Round 28: K12, m1R, [k29, m1R] three times, k19. 122 sts.
Round 29: K18, m1R, [k30, m1R] three times, k14. 126 sts.
Round 30: K24, m1R, [k31, m1R] three times, k9. 130 sts.
Round 31: [K26, m1R] five times. 135 sts.
Round 32: K7, m1R, [k33, m1R] three times, k29. 139 sts.
Round 33: K14, m1R, [k34, m1R] three times, k23. 143 sts.
Round 34: K21, m1R, [k35, m1R] three times, k17. 147 sts.

Shape front of crown:
Set-up Round: K36, place marker (marker A), k75, place marker (marker B), k36.

Work short rows as follows: See Pattern Notes re. W&T, and working wraps together with wrapped sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K to 3 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to 3 sts before marker A, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 6 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to 6 sts before marker A, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K to 9 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to 9 sts before marker A, W&T.
Row 7 [RS]: K to 12 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P to 12 sts before marker A, W&T.
Row 9 [RS]: K to 15 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P to 15 sts before marker A, W&T.
Row 11 [RS]: K to 18 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P to 18 sts before marker A, W&T.
Row 13 [RS]: K to 21 sts before marker B, W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P to 21 sts before marker A, W&T.

Note: Throughout this pattern, when working a st which has been wrapped in a previous short row, work the wrap together with the wrapped st (see Pattern Notes).

Row 15 [RS]: K to 3 sts before marker B, work next wrap together with both wrapped st and following st (1 st decreased); k1, remove marker B, k to end of round. 146 sts.

Next Round: K to marker A, remove marker, k1, sl 1 knitwise, lift wrap over and behind wrapped st without removing it from left needle; sl st from right needle back to left needle and k this st together with both wrap and wrapped st, through back loops; k to end of round. 145 sts.

K 2 rounds.

The next round forms the ridge which outlines the top of the crown and gives structure to the upper part of the hat. The folded ridge is formed on the RS of the work.
Next Round: [Insert left needle into back loop of the st which is 3 rows below next st on needle; k this loop together with next st on needle] for every st to end of round. 145 sts.

Shape front of hat body:
Rounds 1-4: K all sts.
Round 5: K48, ssk, k45, k2tog, k48. 143 sts.
Round 6: K53, ssk, k33, k2tog, k53. 141 sts.
Round 7: K58, ssk, k21, k2tog, k58. 139 sts.
Round 8: K63, ssk, k9, k2tog, k63. 137 sts.
Round 9: K60, ssk, k4, ssk, k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k60. 133 sts.
Round 10: K46, ssk, k37, k2tog, k46. 131 sts.
Round 11: K49, ssk, k29, k2tog, k49. 129 sts.
Round 12: K52, ssk, k21, k2tog, k52. 127 sts.
Round 13: K55, ssk, k13, k2tog, k55. 125 sts.
Round 14: K4, k2tog, k37, ssk, k13, ssk, k5, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k37, ssk, k4. 119 sts.
Round 15: K43, ssk, k29, k2tog, k43. 117 sts.
Round 16: K13, k2tog, k30, ssk, k23, k2tog, k30, ssk, k13. 113 sts.
Round 17: K46, ssk, k17, k2tog, k46. 111 sts.
Round 18: K22, k2tog, k24, ssk, k11, k2tog, k24, ssk, k22. 107 sts.
Round 19: K50, ssk, k3, k2tog, k50. 105 sts.
Round 20: K31, k2tog, k12, ssk, k11, k2tog, k12, ssk, k31. 101 sts.
Round 21: K45, ssk, k5, k2tog, k45, k2tog. 98 sts.
Round 22: K4, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k50, ssk, k16, ssk, k4. 94 sts.
Round 23: [K8, k2tog] 2[1] times, k54[74], [ssk, k8] 2[1] times. 90[92] sts.
Round 24: K all sts. Break yarn, leaving a 4-inch tail.

PEAK
Place first and last 27[28] sts of round on waste yarn, leaving center 36 sts on needle. Place all 36 sts on one needle.

CO 36 sts onto other circular needle; continuing from these sts, k center 36 sts of crown; join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist CO edge. 72 sts. Needle 1 is needle with newly CO sts, Needle 2 holds center sts of crown.

In the next round, a ridge is formed which will help the peak to fold correctly when the hat is worn. The folded ridge is formed on the WS of the work.

Next Round: K all sts on Needle 1; k2, [insert right needle into the front of the st which is 3 rows below next st on left needle, pick up the right leg of the st and place it on the left needle; k this loop together with next st on needle] 32 times, k2.

K 1 round.

Shape peak using short rows, as follows.
Row 1 [RS]: K33, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P30, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K26, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P22, W&T.
Row 5 [RS] K to end of Needle 1; k first 33 sts on Needle 2, W&T.
Rows 6-8: Work as for Rows 2-4.
Row 9 [RS]: K to end of Needle 2.
Row 10 [RS]: K first 34 sts on Needle 1, W&T.
Row 11 [WS]: P32, W&T.
Row 12 [RS]: K31, W&T.
Row 13 [WS]: P30, W&T.
Row 14 [RS]: K29, W&T.
Row 15 [WS]: P28, W&T.
Row 16 [RS]: K26, W&T.
Row 17 [WS]: P24, W&T.
Row 18 [RS]: K23, W&T.
Row 19 [WS]: P22, W&T.
Row 20 [RS]: K21, W&T.
Row 21 [WS]: P20, W&T.
Row 22 [RS]: K19, W&T.
Row 23 [WS]: P18, W&T.
Row 24 [RS]: K16, W&T.
Row 25 [WS]: P14, W&T.
Row 26 [RS]: K to end of Needle 1; k first 34 sts on Needle 2, W&T.
Rows 27-41: Work as for Rows 11-25.
Row 42 [RS]: K to end of Needle 2.

K 1 round.
Next Round: [Sssk, k30, k3tog] twice. 64 sts.

Graft sts on Needle 1 to sts on Needle 2. Break yarn, leaving a tail approx. 20 inches long.

Shape back of hat
Place 54[56] held sts on one needle, picking up 1 st at each end of needle in gap between held sts and base of peak. 56[58] sts. Join yarn with RS facing.

Row 1 [RS]: K6[7], k2tog, [k12, k2tog] 3 times, k6[7]. 52[54] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Pick up and p 1 st at edge of peak, [p16(17), p2tog] twice, p16, pick up and p 1 st at edge of peak. 52[54] sts.

Size M Only:
Row 3 [RS]: Pick up and k 1 st in CO st at edge of peak, k19, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] three times, k17, W&T. 49 sts remain.

Size L Only:
Row 3 [RS]: Pick up and k 1 st in CO st at edge of peak, k20, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k16, W&T. 53 sts remain.

All Sizes:
Row 4 [WS]: P44, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K41, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P38, W&T.
Row 7 [RS]: K35, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P32, W&T.
Row 9 [RS]: K to end, pick up and k 1 st in CO st at edge of peak. 50[54] sts.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 7 sts, k2tog, k5.
Row 12 [WS]: P to last 7 sts, p2tog, p5. 48[52] sts.
Row 13 [RS]: K all sts.
Rows 14-16: [K1, p1] to end.
BO all sts. Break yarn, leaving a tail approx. 30 inches long.

FINISHING

Fold lower edge of hat to WS, along top of ribbed band. Sew in place as invisibly as possible, using yarn tail from BO.

Sew closed the small opening at the top of the crown.

Block hat using 2 to 3 rolled towels to shape hat body and curve of peak.

Using template [click link to view graphic, then print], cut stabilizer to shape. Insert into peak pocket, trimming if necessary. Use waste yarn to sew pocket temporarily closed. Block again with stabilizer in place. Once shaping and fit are satisfactory, sew pocket closed using yarn tail from peak CO, and remove waste yarn.

Weave in ends. Sew snaps in place, using photos as guides.

Optional sweatband or elastic:
Cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon approx. 1 inch longer than the inner circumference of the hat's lower edge. Overlap ends and sew together, then sew in place inside hat.
OR
Cut a piece of elastic approx. 3 inches long. Lightly stretch the elastic and hand sew into the inside back of the hat near the bottom edge. Lightly stretching the elastic as you sew will create a more snug fit.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

If it weren’t for bouts of insomnia, Anne would never find time to knit or use up her abundance of creative energy. Or was it the other way around? Anne is co-owner of Handicraft Cafe and talks about her crafty endeavors on her blog.