Knitty: Twist + Shout

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models: Robynn Weldon, Susan Brand, Mel Howes

photos: Armin Rüede

by Robynn Weldon

This is a magic jacket. Half the members of my knitting circle tried it on – women of very different shapes and sizes – and each one looked better than the last. The combination of simple waist shaping, all-over ribbing, cables and the angled centre panels pull it in while allowing plenty of stretch, making it sit beautifully on every body. And knit in a warm, soft alpaca blend, it’s a wonderfully cosy, stylish way to wrap up on a chilly autumn day.

When working the front pieces, most of the time there are 3 things going on at once: matched increases and decreases every RS row to make the centre panel sit at an angle; cabling the centre panel every 6 rows; and shaping the waist. If in doubt, just remember that the cables and angle shaping carry on exactly as established at the start, regardless of what’s going on with waist, armhole or neck shaping. (The back is simpler as there is no angle shaping to worry about.) Because there is so much going on, you need to pay close attention; I strongly recommend reading ahead and highlighting the instructions for your size.

Because of the pattern’s giving nature, instructions for only 4 sizes are given – trust me, this is plenty. If in doubt go small.

SIZE

A[B, C, D] (Shown in size B)
To fit XS/S [M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: approx. 33[39, 47, 54] inches, with front panels overlapped
Length: 22[24, 26, 28.25] inches

MATERIALS

Rooster Almerino Aran [50% baby alpaca, 50% merino; 103yd/94m per 50g skein]; color: Spiced Plum; 12[15, 21, 26] balls

Recommended needle size:

1 pair US #9/5.5mm straight needles

1 24-inch US #9/5.5mm circular needle for working collar (optional, but more comfortable than straight needles)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

2[2, 2, 4] stitch markers

Row counter (optional)

2 large stitch holders

1 crochet hook, approx. size US #I/5.5mm (optional)

Tapestry needle

1 large decorative button, 1.25 inches in diameter

1 small flat button, 0.75 inches in diameter (will be hidden inside jacket)

GAUGE

19 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st
20 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in rib pattern, slightly stretched

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k2, k2 from cable needle.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; k2, k2 from cable needle.

m1p: Make 1 purl stitch: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl into front of this stitch.

PSO: Pass first st on right needle (left unworked at end of previous row) over st next st on right needle (has just been slipped to right needle). This will be used when working angled BO edges, to create a smooth edge without the “steps” that are usually seen on these edges.

Ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

Sssk: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle; insert left needle into front of these 3 sts, knit them together.

W2tog: Work 2 sts together. Work either a k2tog or p2tog, as stitch would appear in pattern.

W2tog tbl: Work 2 sts together through back loops. Work either a k2tog tbl or p2tog tbl, as stitch would appear in pattern.

Back Cable Pattern (Worked over 44 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: K3, [p2, C4B, p2, k2] twice, [p2, C4F, p2, k2] twice, k1.
Rows 2, 4, 6 [WS]: P3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, p1.
Rows 3, 5 [RS]: K3, [p2, k4, p2, k2] four times, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-6 for pattern.

The neckline of this jacket is stabilized using a row of crocheted slip stitch. Instructions for this technique can be found here.

Instructions for creating a button loop can be found here.

Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
Using straight needles, CO 88[104, 122, 140] sts.

Size A Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P4, [k1, p3] 4 times, k1, p1, place marker, p3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, p1, place marker, p1, [k1, p3] 4 times, k1, p4.

Size B Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, p1, place marker, p1, [k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p3.

Size C Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k3, p5] 4 times, k3, p1, place marker, p3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, p1, place marker, p1, [k3, p5] 4 times, k3, p3.

Size D Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4] 7 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, p1, place marker, p1, [k2, p4] 7 times, k2, p3.

All Sizes:
Set-up Row establishes rib pattern for Back.

Work 14 more rows in pattern, ending with a WS row. From this point, begin working Back Cable Pattern between markers.

Note: For size B only, waist shaping and cable pattern both begin on Row 15.

Work 10[0, 4, 9] more rows in pattern. 25[15, 19, 24] rows have been worked.

Shape Waist:
Size D Only:
Next Row [WS]: Work 36 sts in pattern (to 12 sts before beginning of cable panel), place marker, work 68 sts in pattern (to 12 sts past end of cable panel), place marker, work in pattern to end.

All Sizes:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, work in pattern to last marker, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 7[7, 5, 7] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8[8, 6, 8] rows 2[4, 6, 4] times more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 80[92, 106, 128] sts.

Work 11 rows in pattern.

Note: Read ahead. Armhole shaping for all sizes except A begins before waist increases are complete.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 1 st before first marker, m1, work in pattern to 1 st after last marker, m1, work in pattern to end.
Work 5[5, 3, 5] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 4, 6] rows 3[5, 7, 5] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME: On the first RS row after the 4th[4th, 6th, 5th] Waist Increase Row, begin armhole shaping as follows:

BO 3[3, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, w2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, k1.
Decrease Row 2 [WS]: P1, w2tog tbl, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[1, 1, 2] times more.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 5, 7] times more.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 0[0, 1, 2] times more, then work Decrease Row 1 once more. 68[80, 86, 94] sts.

Work 43[47, 43, 41] more rows in pattern, ending with a WS row. 58[64, 70, 78] rows have been worked from beginning of armhole.

Shape Shoulders:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 9[11, 12, 13] sts, work in pattern to end.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 9[11, 12, 13] sts, work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, PSO, BO 8[11, 11, 12] sts more, work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, PSO, BO 8[11, 11, 12] sts more, work in pattern to end. Place remaining 32[34, 38, 42] sts on st holder.

RIGHT FRONT
Using straight needles, CO 74[84, 95, 102] sts.

Size A Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P4, [k1, p3] 4 times, k1, p1, place marker, p2, k1, p3, place marker, p1, [k2, p2, k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p3.

Size B Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, k2, p3, place marker, p1, [k2, p2, k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p3.

Size C Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k3, p5] 4 times, k3, p1, place marker, p4, k3, p3, place marker, p1, [k2, p2, k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p3.

Size D Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4] 5 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, [k2, p4] twice, k2, p3, place marker, p1, [k2, p2, k2, p4] 4 times, k2, p3.

All Sizes:
Set-up Row establishes rib pattern for Back.
Work 2 more rows in pattern as set.

Front Panel Shaping Row [RS]: K3, m1, work 41 sts in pattern (to 2 sts before first marker), ~~p1,~~ k2tog; work in rib pattern as set to end. The first 46 sts of this row form the Front Panel.

Front Panel is worked in rib as set for first 15 rows, increasing and decreasing as in Front Panel Shaping Row every RS row. On 16th row and every following 6th row, work [C4F] over every column of 4 sts in panel, continuing to increase and decrease as set, until piece is complete.

Shape Waist:
Work 21[11, 15, 21] more rows in pattern. 25[15, 19, 25] rows have been worked.

All Sizes:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to second marker, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 7[7, 5, 7] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8[8, 6, 8] rows 2[4, 6, 4] times more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 70[78, 87, 96] sts.

Work 11 rows in pattern.

Note: Read ahead. Armhole shaping for all sizes except A begins before waist increases are complete.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 1 st after second marker, m1, work in pattern to end.
Work 5[5, 3, 5] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 4, 6] rows 3[5, 7, 5] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME: On the first WS row after the 4th[4th, 5th, 5th] Waist Increase Row, begin armhole shaping as follows:

Next Row [WS]: BO 3[3, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to end.
Decrease Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, k1.
Decrease Row 2 [WS]: P1, w2tog tbl, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[1, 1, 2] times more.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 5, 7] times more.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 0[0, 1, 2] times more, then work Decrease Row 1 once more, removing second marker. 64[72, 77, 79] sts.

Work 3[7, 3, 1] rows in pattern. 17[23, 29, 37] rows have been worked from beginning of armhole.

Shape Neckline and Buttonhole:
Note: For right front, instead of binding off sts to shape first few rows of neckline, groups of sts will be slipped to a st holder.

Row 1 [RS]: K3, p1, BO 2 sts, work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, work to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to bound-off sts, CO 3 sts, k1, p3.
Row 3 [RS]: Work 5[5, 8, 8] sts in pattern and sl them to st holder; work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, work to end. 58[66, 68, 70] sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 4-8 [WS]: Work in pattern to end.
Row 5 [RS]: Work 4[4, 7, 7] sts in pattern and slip them to st holder; work in pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, work to end. 53[61, 60, 62] sts.
Row 7 [RS]: Work as for Row 5. 48[56, 52, 54] sts.
Row 9 [RS]: K1, w2tog, work in pattern to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, k to end.
Row 10 [WS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog, p1. 45[53, 49, 51] sts; 27[27, 18, 18] sts remain in Front Panel.
Repeat Rows 9-10 4[8, 5, 5] times more. 33[29, 34, 36] sts; 15[3, 3, 3] sts remain in Front Panel.

Size A Only:
Next Row [RS]: Work as for Row 9.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more. 23 sts; 5 sts remain in Front Panel.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k3tog, k1, work in pattern to end. 21 sts.
Work 1 row in pattern.

All Sizes:
Removing marker on next row, continue as follows:
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, w2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 3[1, 1, 1] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4[2, 2, 2] rows 1[4, 8, 8] times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 18[23, 24, 26] sts.

Work 2[4, 2, 2] rows in pattern, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [WS]: BO 9[11, 12, 13] sts, work in pattern to end. 9[12, 12, 13] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: Work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, PSO, BO remaining sts.

LEFT FRONT
Using straight needles, CO 74[84, 95, 102] sts.

Size A Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, k1, p2, place marker, p1, k1, [p3, k1] 4 times, p4.

Size B Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, k2, p3, place marker, p1, k2, [p4, k2] 4 times, p3.

Size C Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, k3, p4, place marker, p1, k3, [p5, k3] 4 times, p3.

Size D Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1, place marker, p3, k2, [p4, k2] twice, p3, place marker, p1, k2, [p4, k2] 5 times, p3.

All Sizes:
Set-up Row establishes rib pattern for Back.
Work 2 more rows in pattern as set.

Front Panel Shaping Row [RS]: Work in rib pattern as set to second marker; ssk, ~~p1,~~ work 41 sts in pattern (to last 3 sts), m1, k3. The last 46 sts of this row form the Front Panel.

Front Panel is worked in rib as set for first 15 rows, increasing and decreasing as in Front Panel Shaping Row every RS row. On 16th row and every following 6th row, work [C4B] over every column of 4 sts in panel, continuing to increase and decrease as set, until piece is complete.

Shape Waist:
Work 21[11, 15, 21] more rows in pattern. 25[15, 19, 25] rows have been worked.

All Sizes:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 7[7, 5, 7] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8[8, 6, 8] rows 2[4, 6, 4] times more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 70[78, 87, 96] sts.

Work 11 rows in pattern.

Note: Read ahead. Armhole shaping for all sizes except A begins before waist increases are complete.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: Work in pattern to 1 st before first marker, m1, work in pattern to end.
Work 5[5, 3, 5] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 4, 6] rows 3[5, 7, 5] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME: On the first RS row after the 4th[4th, 5th, 5th] Waist Increase Row, begin armhole shaping as follows:

Next Row [RS]: BO 3[3, 5, 5] sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, w2tog, work in pattern to end.
Decrease Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[1, 1, 2] times more.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 5, 7] times more.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 0[0, 1, 2] times more, then work Decrease Row 1 once more, removing first marker. 64[72, 77, 79] sts.

Work 4[8, 4, 2] rows in pattern. 19[25, 31, 39] rows have been worked from beginning of armhole.

Shape Neckline and Buttonhole:
Continue to work decrease as set at beginning of Front Panel. Stitch numbers given in this section will take these decreased sts into account.

Row 1 [WS]: BO 5[5, 8, 8] sts, work in pattern to end. 59[67, 69, 71] sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-4 [RS]: Work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Row 3 [WS]: SL 1, PSO, BO 3[3, 6, 6] more sts, work in pattern to end. 54[62, 61, 63] sts.
Row 5 [WS]: Work as for Row 3. 49[57, 53, 55] sts.
Row 6 [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, k1.
Row 7 [WS]: P1, w2tog tbl, work in pattern to end. 46[54, 50, 52] sts; 28[28, 19, 19] sts remain in Front Panel.
Repeat Rows 6-7 4[8, 5, 5] times more. 34[30, 35, 37] sts; 16[4, 4, 4] sts remain in Front Panel.

Size A Only:
Next Row [RS]: Work as for Row 6.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. 22 sts; 4 sts remain in Front Panel.

All Sizes:
Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, remove marker, sssk, k1. 20[28, 33, 35] sts.

Work 3[1, 1, 1] rows in pattern.
Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, k1.
Repeat these 4[2, 2, 2] rows 1[4, 8, 8] times more. 18[23, 24, 26] sts.

Work 3[5, 3, 3] rows in pattern, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 9[11, 12, 13] sts, work in pattern to end. 9[12, 12, 13] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, PSO, BO remaining sts.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
Note: As written, sleeve is bracelet length, approx. 14[14, 15, 15] inches long to underarm. If you wish to have longer sleeves, work more rows before beginning increases.

Using straight needles, CO 58[62, 66, 68] sts.

Size A Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P2, [k1, p3] twice, place marker, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p4, k2, place marker, [p3, k1] twice, p2.

Size B Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P6, k2, p4, place marker, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p4, k2, place marker, p4, k2, p6.

Size C Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P6, k3, p5, place marker, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p4, k2, place marker, p5, k3, p6.

Size D Only:
Set-up Row [WS]: P3, [k2, p4] twice, place marker, [k2, p4, k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p4, k2, place marker, [p4, k2] twice, p3.

All Sizes:
Set-up Row establishes rib pattern for Back.
Work 8 more rows in pattern as set, slipping first st of each row.

Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, work in pattern to last 2 sts, m1, k2. 60[64, 68, 70] sts.
Work 5 rows in pattern, slipping first st of each row and working increased sts into 3x1[4x2, 5x3, 4x2] Rib pattern as set.

Increase Row [RS]: K2, m1, work in pattern to first marker, [p2, C4B, p2, k2] twice, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4F, p2, work in pattern to last 2 sts, m1, k2. From this point on, do not slip first st of each row. Work cables as set every 6th row until piece is complete. 62[66, 70, 72] sts.

Work 5 rows in pattern, working increased sts into pattern as set.
Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 6 rows 6[8, 10, 12] times more. 76[84, 92, 98] sts.

Continue in pattern until sleeve measures 14[14, 15, 15] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 3[3, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Decrease Row 1 [RS]: K1, w2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, k1.
Decrease Row 2 [WS]: P1, w2tog tbl, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog, p1. 66[74, 78, 84] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 6[7, 8, 10] times more. 52[58, 60, 62] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 3] times more. 46[52, 54, 54] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 6[8, 7, 6] times more. 32[34, 38, 40] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work Decrease Row 2.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. 24[26, 30, 32] sts.

BO sleeve cap as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4 sts, work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, PSO, BO 3 more sts, work in pattern to last st, turn work.
Rows 3-4: Work as for Row 2. 8[10, 14, 16] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, PSO, BO remaining sts.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve caps into armholes.
Sew sleeve seams, leaving lower 15 rows unsewn; slipped sts at side edges of cuff form edges of cuff opening.
Sew side seams.

Collar:
With WS facing, using circular needle and beginning at side edge of Front Panel, pick up and k 1 st for every row along left front neckline edge, k held sts of back neckline, pick up and k 1 st for every row along right neckline edge, k held sts of right front neckline.
When working first row, increase or decrease up to 2 sts to achieve a multiple of 5 sts + 3.

Note: RS and WS row notations below refer to RS and WS of collar, not of jacket. When RS of collar is facing, WS of jacket will be facing.

Row 1 [WS]: P3, [k2, p3] to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K3, [p2, k3] to end.
Row 3 [WS]: Work as for Row 1.
Row 4 [RS]: K2, m1, k1, [p2, k1, m1, k2] to end.
Row 5 [WS]: P4, [k2, p4] to end.
Row 6 [RS]: K4, [p2, k4] to end.
Rows 7-15: Work as for Rows 5 and 6.
Row 16 [RS]: K4, [m1, p2, k4] to last 6 sts, p2, m1, k4.
Row 17 [WS]: P4, [k3, p4] to end.
Row 18 [RS]: K4, [p3, k4] to end.
Rows 19-27: Work as for Rows 17 and 18.
Row 28 [RS]: K2, m1, k2, [p3, k2, m1, k2] to end.
Row 29 [WS]: P5, [k3, p5] to end.
Row 30 [RS]: K5, [p3, k5] to end.
Work 5[5, 9, 9]more rows in pattern as set. BO all sts.

Following directions in linked article in Pattern Notes, work 1 row slip stitch on WS of jacket, along first row of collar.

Buttons and Button Loop:
Sew large button to RS of left front, at edge of Front Panel, approx. 1 inch below edge of collar.

Make button loop near upper corner of left front. Button loop may be either made following directions in linked article in Pattern Notes, or crocheted as follows:
With RS facing, use sl st to join yarn to left front edge, approx. 1 inch below upper edge. Work 3 sl st along edge, ch 3, rejoin yarn to edge at base of chain and work 3 more sl st. Break yarn and draw through last st.

Try on jacket to determine best location for small button, which should be attached to inside of right front, along edge of Front Panel. It is important to place this button high enough to keep left front from sagging when jacket is worn. Sew button in place.

Weave in any remaining ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Robynn has been knitting and crocheting since high school and is doing her best to convince the rest of the world her hobby (er, obsession) is as glamorous as she knows it to be.

She lives in London, UK, and runs the online store purlescence with the help of her partner Armin, who is not only very talented but also appreciates a good sock.