Knitty: Venus - Fall 2008

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model & photos: Helen Hue

by Helen Hue

Venus emerging from the sea aloft a giant gilded scallop is an iconic image, one that unconsciously influenced the color and central motif of this sweater. Having just returned from the beach, intense watery blues deeply resonate with me at the moment. The hand-dyed loosely spun Silky Merino was simply too tempting in its soft shiny perfection. I had originally planned pleats, but found them too bulky for Silky Merino and abandoned them in favor of deep ribs instead. When I had finished knitting, the deep ribs took on a decidedly shell-like appearance.

This garment may be worn as a tank or vest, and is knit from the bottom up in the round until the armhole division. The shell pattern involves just a little bit of cabling and quite a bit of increasing: the purl sts of the rib begin as increases. The dramatic collar is simply a continuation of the upper fronts, which are subsequently joined using a three-needle bind off and sewn to the back. Little cap sleeves, shaped using short rows, finish off the armhole. The pattern calls for a tubular cast on, tubular bind off, and EZ’s sewn bind off; however, if you want to use your usual method of casting on or binding off, go ahead (just keep it loose).

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size L, worn with negative 7” ease)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length (not including collar): 18[18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23] inches

MATERIALS

Malabrigo Silky Merino [50% silk, 50% baby merino wool; 150yd/137m per 50 g skein]; color: Teal Feather; 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7] skeins

Recommended needle size:
Note: For circular needles listed below, use 24-inch length for smaller sizes, 32-inch length for larger sizes.

1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle

1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle

1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle

1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles

1 set US #5/3.75mm double-point needles

1 crochet hook, approx. US H/8 / 5 mm (optional, used for tubular cast on only)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Smooth waste yarn of weight similar to working yarn (optional, used for tubular cast on)
4 stitch markers (ensure that one marker is different from the others)
2 stitch holders
Tapestry needle

GAUGE

16 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st, using largest needle

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

C4B: place next 2 sts on cable needle and hold to back of work, k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle
C4F: place next 2 sts on cable needle and hold to front of work, k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle
C5BP: place next 2 sts on cable needle and hold to back of work, [p1, k2] from left needle, k2 from cable needle
C5FP: place next 3 sts on cable needle and hold to front of work, k2 from left needle, [p1, k2] from cable needle
m1p: Make 1 purl stitch: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl into front of this stitch.
Wyib: With yarn held to back of work
Wyif: With yarn held to front of work, [k2, p1] from cable needle

1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat this round for 1x1 Rib.

Shell Pattern:
Round 1: K8, C4B, C4F, k8.
Round 2: K24.
Round 3: K8, m1p, k2, m1p, k4, m1p, k2, m1p, k8. 28 sts.
Round 4: K8, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k8.
Round 5: K6, C5BP, p1, k4, p1, C5FP, k6.
Round 6: K6, [p1, k4] 3 times, p1, k6.
Round 7: K4, C5BP, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, C5FP, k4.
Round 8: K4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4.
Round 9: K4, p1, k2, m1p, [k4, p1] twice, k4, m1p, k2, p1, k4. 30 sts.
Round 10: K4, p1, k2, p1, [k4, p1] 3 times, k2, p1, k4.
Round 11: K2, C5BP, p1, [k4, p1] 3 times, C5FP, k2.
Round 12: K2, [p1, k4] 5 times, p1, k2.
Round 13: C5BP, k2, p1, [k4, p1] 3 times, k2, C5FP.
Round 14: P1, k6, p1, [k4, p1] 3 times, k6, p1.
Round 15: P1, k2, m1p, [k4, p1] 4 times, k4, m1p, k2, p1. 32 sts.
Rounds 16-18: K1, p2, [k1, p4] 5 times, k1, p2, k1.
Round 19: P1, k2, p1, [k4, m1p, p1, m1p] 4 times, k4, p1, k2, p1. 40 sts.
Rounds 20-22: K1, p2, k1, [p4, k3] 4 times, p4, k1, p2, k1.
Round 23 [RS]: P1, k2, p1, [k4, m1p, p3, m1p] 4 times, k4, p1, k2, p1. 48 sts.

At this point, work is divided, and front is worked back and forth. Even-numbered rows will now be WS rows.
Row 24 [WS]: K1, p2, k1, [p4, k5] 4 times, p4, k1, p2, k1.
Row 25 [RS]: P1, k2, p1, [k4, p5] 4 times, k4, p1, k2, p1
Rows 26-40: Work as for Rows 24-25, ending with a WS row.

Instructions for the Sewn Bind Off can be found here.
Scroll down to “Elizabeth Zimmermann's sewn bind off”.

Instructions for the Tubular Bind Off can be found here.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. *Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*
Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

DIRECTIONS

LOWER BODY

Note: If you do not wish to use the tubular cast on, CO 112[128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208] sts onto mid-sized (US #7/4.5mm) circular needle. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Use the marker which is different from the others, to indicate end of round. Proceed to Lower Ribbing.

Tubular Cast On:
Using waste yarn and crochet hook, work a crochet chain approx. 60[68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108] sts long.

Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using smallest (US #5/3.75mm) circular needle and working yarn, [pick up and k 1 st in back loop of ch, yo] 56[64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104] times; total of 112[128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208] sts.

Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Use the marker which is different from the others, to indicate end of round. Be careful not to lose the last [yo] when joining work and working first round.

Round 1: [Sl 1 wyib, p1] to end. (The first time you work this round, you will be purling the yarn overs between the picked-up sts.)
Round 2: [K1, sl 1 wyif] to end.
Repeat these 2 rounds once more. Proceed to Lower Ribbing.

Lower Ribbing:
Using mid-sized (US #7/4.5mm) circular needle, work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 1 inch. Remove waste yarn from CO edge.

Lower Body:
Set-up Round: Using largest (US #9/5.5mm) circular needle, k16[20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40], place marker, k24, place marker, k16[20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40], place marker, k56[64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104]. First and second markers indicate placement of shell motif, third marker and end-of-round marker indicate side “seam” placement.

Note: Read ahead! Waist shaping and shell pattern are worked at the same time.

Shape Waist:
Work in stockinette st until work measures 2[2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3] inches, or approx. 9[9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5] inches less than desired length to underarm.
Waist Decrease Round: K3, k2tog, k to 5 sts before third marker, ssk, k6, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
K 9 rounds, then work Waist Decrease Round once more. 104[120, 136, 152, 168, 184, 200] sts.

K 9 rounds.
Waist Increase Round: K3, m1, k to 3 sts before third marker, m1, k6, m1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3.
Repeat these 10 rounds once more. 112[128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208] sts.

AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 6.5[6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9] inches (or 4.5 inches less than desired length to underarm), begin working Shell Motif over 24 sts between first and second markers.
Work in pattern until Round 22 of Shell Motif is complete. Work measures 11[11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5] inches; 128[144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224] sts.

Next Round: Work in pattern to third marker, working Round 23 of Shell Pattern between first and second markers; place last 56[64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104] sts of round on hold on smaller circular needle for back. From this point, upper front will be worked back and forth over remaining 80[88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128] sts on needle.

UPPER FRONT
Shape armholes as follows, continuing to work Shell Motif over sts between markers and working all other sts in stockinette st.

BO 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 76, 82, 90, 98, 104, 112, 116] sts.
BO 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 72[78, 84, 92, 98, 106, 110] sts.

Sizes 2X and 3X Only:
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 102, 106] sts.

All Sizes:
Work 1 row (a WS row) in pattern.
Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, work in pattern to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2] times more. 70[76, 82, 88, 94, 96, 100] sts.

Continue in pattern until Row 40 of Shell Motif is complete.
Note: In the next row, sts of Shell Motif are bound off using the sewn bind off. If you prefer, these sts may be bound off using another method.

Next Row [RS]: K11[14, 17, 20, 23, 24, 26] (to first marker); from another ball of yarn, cut a length of yarn approx. 60 inches long, and use this length to bind off sts of Shell Motif using sewn bind off; place remaining 11[14, 17, 20, 23, 24, 26] sts on hold on smaller circular needle.

Upper Left Front and Collar:
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Next Row [RS]: K to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
Repeat these 4 rows 10[10, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9] times more. 22[25, 27, 30, 33, 34, 36] sts.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 7[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping. Use a piece of waste yarn to mark armhole edge of last row worked; this indicates top of armhole and beginning of collar.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 12.75[13.5, 14.75, 16, 17.25, 18, 19] inches from beginning of armhole shaping. Break yarn, leaving a tail at least 36 inches long, and place sts on st holder.

Upper Right Front and Collar:
Place 11[14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 28] held sts of right front on US #9/5.5mm needle with RS facing at reattach yarn. Work 4 rows in stockinette st.

Next Row [RS]: K2, m1, k to end.
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows 10[10, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9] times more. 22[25, 27, 30, 33, 34, 36] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures same as upper left front, marking top of armhole in the same way. Break yarn and place sts on st holder.

UPPER BACK
Rejoin yarn to 56[64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104] held sts of upper back with RS facing and work as follows, using largest (US #9/5.5mm) circular needle.

BO 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
52[58, 66, 74, 80, 88, 92] sts.

BO 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 48[54, 60, 68, 74, 82, 86] sts.

Sizes 2X and 3X Only:
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 78, 82] sts.

All Sizes:
Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, work in pattern to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 1, 1, 2, 2] times more. 46[52, 58, 64, 70, 72, 76] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 5.5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8] inches from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape Left Back Neckline:
Row 1 [RS]: K17[17, 20, 20, 23, 23, 23] and place these sts on st holder; BO next 12[12, 18, 24, 24, 26, 30] sts, k to end. 17[17, 20, 20, 23, 23, 23] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: BO 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, k to end. 12[12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16] sts.
Rows 4-7: Work as for Rows 2-3. 2 sts remain.
P 1 row, then BO these 2 sts. Work measures 7[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping.

Place 17[17, 20, 20, 23, 23, 23] held sts of right back neckline on largest (US #9/5.5mm) needle with WS facing and rejoin yarn.
Row 1 [WS]: BO 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, p to end. 12[12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: K all sts.
Rows 3-6: Work as for Rows 1-2.
BO remaining 2 sts.

Attach Collar to Back Neckline:
Beginning at marked rows and working towards center of back neckline, pin lower edges of collar halves to neckline to ensure that they are the correct length; lengthen or shorten if necessary, so that collar halves meet at center back. Join collar halves. Sew lower edge of collar to back neckline.

CAP SLEEVES
Using larger (US #7/4.5 mm) double-point needles and beinning at center of one underarm with RS facing, pick up and k 70[72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92] sts around armhole. Place marker and join to begin working in the round.

Work 2 rounds in 1x1 Rib, then work short rows as follows.
Note: When working a st which was wrapped on a previous short row, pick up the wrap and work it together with the wrapped st.

Row 1 [RS]: Work 44[45, 54, 56, 60, 67, 72] in pattern, W&T. Proceed to Row 6[6, 4, 4, 4, 2, 2] below.

Sizes 2X, 3X begin here:
Row 2 [WS]: Work 38 sts in pattern, W&T.

Row 3 [RS]: Work 33 sts in pattern, W&T.

Sizes M, L, 1X begin here:
Row 4 [WS]: Work 28 sts in pattern, W&T.

Row 5 [RS]: Work 23 sts in pattern, W&T.

Sizes XS, S begin here:
Row 6 [WS]: Work 18 sts in pattern, W&T.

Row 7 [RS]: Work 13 sts in pattern, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, W&T.
Row 9 [RS]: Work 37[38, 42, 44, 48, 50, 55] sts in pattern (to last 2 sts), W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: Work 66[68, 76, 80, 88, 92, 102] sts in pattern (to last 2 sts), W&T.
Row 11 [RS]: Work in pattern to end.
Work 1 more round in 1x1 Rib over all sts.

If you do not wish to work the tubular bind off, work 1 more round in 1x1 Rib then bind off as desired.

If you wish to work the tubular bind off as in the sweater shown, switch to smaller (US #5/3.75mm) double-point needles and continue as follows:
Next Round: [Sl 1 wyib, p1] to end.
Next Round: [K1, sl 1 wyif] to end.
Work tubular bind off

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block as desired.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Helen Hue is happy to be surrounded by one very patient husband, yarn, great knitting buddies, and two naughty black cats, a.k.a. the Little Blackheads.

You can read more here.