Kernel is kind of a mutt. When I opened the package containing a skein of amber-colored Mini Maiden yarn that I’d ordered, I knew immediately I wanted to use the yarn to design a lace scarf for fall - the color had “fall” written all over it. But once I started swatching, I realized that the stitch patterns I had planned to use weren’t really right for this subtly variegated yarn.

I had fallen head over heels in love with the Mini Maiden, though. So I ditched my original design idea and started over. Isn’t that how love goes sometimes - we make ourselves over to suit the beloved?

The final design combines aspects of several different swatches, which is why I think of it as a mutt. And the lace pattern in the central panel of the scarf reminds me of corn kernels - thus the scarf’s name.

SIZE
One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width: 9.5 inches
Length: 65 inches
Note: Measurements taken after blocking.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Hand Maiden Mini Maiden [50 percent silk/50 percent wool; 546yd/500m per 100g skein]; color: Amber [shown above] or Peridot [shown below]; 1 skein


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles
1 spare circular needle, US #4/3.5mm or smaller

Tools
Steel crochet hook small enough to fit through holes of beads (I used size 10/1.15mm)
36 #6 seed beads
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Rustproof blocking pins
Blocking wires (optional)

GAUGE
21 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

sk2p: Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased.

Lower edging is worked first, followed by a beaded garter-stitch band. Body of scarf is worked next, and part of a second beaded band. Upper edging is worked, including part of a beaded band; this edging is then grafted to scarf body.

Placing Beads: The beads are placed on RS rows using a very narrow steel crochet hook. To place a bead on a stitch, first insert the hook through the hole in the bead, and slide the bead onto the shaft of the hook. Slip the stitch off the needle and onto the hook, slide the bead down the hook and onto the stitch. Slip the stitch back to the left needle, then knit it.

DIRECTIONS LOWER EDGING
Loosely CO 49 sts.
K 2 rows.
K 2 more rows, slipping first st of each row knitwise.

Work rows 1-8 of Edging Chart twice, then work Rows 1-7 once more. Outlined pattern repeat is worked three times in each row.

BEADED BAND
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k3, [place bead, k4] nine times.
Rows 3-5: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 6 [RS]: Work as for Row 2.
Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, k to end.

SCARF BODY
Work Rows 1-16 of Kernel Chart 23 times, then work Rows 1-15 once more. Outlined pattern repeat is worked three times in each row.

Work Rows 1-3 of Beaded Band.
Break yarn, leaving a tail approx. 1 yd long; this will be used for grafting upper edging to scarf body. Place all sts on hold on spare needle.

UPPER EDGING
Work as for Lower Edging.
Work Rows 1-2 of Beaded Band. Break yarn, leaving a tail to be woven in.

Grafting:
Note: When the scarf is blocked, it will be stretched both lengthwise and widthwise. If the grafting is done too tightly, the fabric will pull in at the grafted row. When grafting, try to maintain a tension similar to that of the knitted stitches. If you are inexperienced at grafting lace, it is a good idea to knit two garter st swatches using a similar yarn at a similar tension, and practice grafting them. Block the grafted swatch to determine if your grafting tension is too tight, too loose, or about right.

Scarf body and upper edging will now be grafted together in garter stitch.

Hold pieces with right sides together. Position work so that upper edging is closest to you; needle tips should be pointing to the right, with the long yarn tail coming from the right corner of the scarf body.

Note: When instructions say “drop st from needle”, this means that the st should be dropped from the knitting needle, not the yarn needle.

Step 1: Thread long yarn tail through yarn needle. Insert yarn needle from right to left through first st on front needle; do not drop st from needle. Draw yarn needle under front needle, then insert it from right to left through first st on back needle. Draw yarn through; do not drop st from needle.

Step 2: Insert yarn needle from left to right through first st on front needle, drop st from needle. Insert yarn needle from right to left through next st on front needle, draw yarn through; do not drop st from needle.

Step 3: Insert yarn needle from left to right through first st on back needle, drop st from needle. Insert yarn needle from right to left through next st on back needle, draw yarn through; do not drop st from needle.

Repeat Steps 2-3 until all sts have been grafted.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block shawl.

An artist, editor/writer, and avid lace knitter, Bonnie Sennott grew up among cornfields in Illinois, and now lives among cornfields in western Massachusetts.

She’s bluepeninsula on Ravelry and blogs here.