A quick and portable project for the cooler days ahead. A basic garter stitch tube is transformed to a wristwarmer/gauntlet, dressed up with chain stitch edges and short row peaks.

The reds/pinks/blues version shown below use Noro Kureyon with a solid color of another yarn for contrast.

The green and teals model features Noro Cash Island and Cash Iroha which create bands of color, sometimes contrasting, sometimes echoing each other but always harmonious. Two colorways of Noro Kureyon would provide a similar effect. These wristwarmers are an excuse to experiment with color!

The springy nature of garter stitch and the flaring created by the short row peaks allows this wrist warmer to fit many shapes and sizes.

Eda means charming and well-mannered in Turkish - you’ll feel cozy, too.

SIZE
One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 8.5 inches long and 3 inches wide.

MATERIALS
Yarn

Version 1, red/pinks/blues [below]:
[A] Mainland Earth Collection [80% Alpaca, 20% Silk, 65 m per 50g skein]; color #3, 1 skein.
[B] Noro Kureyon [100% Wool, 100 m per 50g skein]; color #170, 1 ball.

Version 2, teals and greens [at top]:
[A] Noro Cash Iroha [40% Silk, 30% Lamb’s Wool, 20 % Cashmere, 10% Nylon, 91 m per 40g skein]; color #99, 1 skein.
[B] Noro Cash Island [60% Wool, 30% Cashmere, 10 % nylon, 100m per 40g skein];
color #15, 1 skein.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #5/3.75 mm straight needles
1 set US #5/3.75 mm double-point needles
OR
1 32 inch or longer US #5/3.75 mm circular needle for magic loop method
OR
2 shorter US #5/3.75 mm circular needles for two-circulars method

Notions
Yarn needle
Stitch marker

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The Noro yarns have fairly wild color changes, and long lengths of color. If you work the first wristwarmer in its entirety before the second, the pair can look quite unmatched. If you want the pair to look more matched, work two tubes before you work the edges.

Provisional cast on instructions here.
 
Garter stitch graft instructions here.

Working a wrap and turn: Bring yarn forward, slip the stitch to be wrapped purlwise from left needle to the right, take the yarn behind work and return the stitch to its original position, turn work.
Working a stitch together with its wrap: insert the right needle tip into the front of wrap from bottom to top, and then into the stitch. Knit the two together by wrapping the yarn as normal, then bringing the new stitch through the old stitch and then the wrap.

DIRECTIONS
TUBE
Using Yarn A and a provisional cast on, cast on 26 stitches.

Row 1 [RS]: With A, knit across 26 stitches.

Row 2 [WS]: Slip 1, K24, bring yarn to front, slip last stitch purlwise.

Join Yarn B.

Row 3 [RS]: With B, k tbl 1, k3, k2tog, k to last st, bring yarn to front, slip last stitch purlwise. 25 sts.

Row 4 [WS]:  With B, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch purlwise.

Rows 5 & 6: With A, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch purlwise.

Rows 7 & 8: With B, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch purlwise.

This method creates a chain stitch edging which will make an attractive detail when we finish the wrist warmers. [see pics below] Repeat Rows 5-8 until you have 15 ridges of Color A and 14 Ridges of Color B.

Last row [RS]: With B, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward, slip last stitch purlwise.

Break both yarns leaving a tail of about 35 cm of yarn B for grafting.

Join the Tube:
Release the provisional cast on and pick up the stitches– there are a few ways to do this but the Cash Iroha is a slippery yarn so don’t let too many get off before you secure them on a needle. You will notice that there are 25 stitches, even though we originally cast on 26. It is the way of provisional cast ons.

Ensure you have 25 sts on each of two needles – the live sts from the cast-on edge, and the sts you were working.

The tips of the needles should be the same direction. Fold the work in half with the right sides facing. Have your working needle in front and your picked up needle in back. Thread the long Yarn B tail onto a tapestry needle.

Set up:  Pull the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl – leave it on the needle. Pull the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl – leave it on the needle.

Step 1: Take your yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and lift the stitch off, take your yarn through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl and leave it on.

Step 2: Take your yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit and lift the stitch off, take your yarn through the next stitch on the back needle as if to purl and leave it on.

Repeat Step 1 and 2 until all the stitches have been grafted. The last stitch on each needle will be knit off, no purl.

Weave in the ends.

Making the Peaked Top Edge
Turn the tube inside out – that is, so that the wrong side is facing you.

With a dpn or circular needle and Yarn A, starting at the join, pick up and knit 1 st in every st of the chain around the first edge.  Note: When picking up the sts, work under both loops of the chain st – see pic below. 30 sts. Join for working in the round, distributing the sts as you prefer on the DPNs, or magic loop, or two circulars. Note or mark beginning of round.

Round 1: P14, kfb, p to end. 31 sts.
Round 2: Knit.
Join Yarn B.  When changing colors, be sure to keep your old yarn in front so that it doesn’t show on the right side.
Round 3: With Yarn B, purl.
Round 4: With Yarn B, knit.
Round 5: With Yarn A, purl.
Round 6: With Yarn A, knit.
Round 7: With Yarn B, purl.

Continuing only with Yarn B, work the short-row peak.
Row 1 [RS]: K20, wrap and turn.
Row 2 [WS]: K9, wrap and turn.
Row 3 [RS]: K8, wrap and turn.
Row 4 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn.
Row 5 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn.
Row 6 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn.
Row 7 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn.
Row 8 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn.
Row 9 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn.
Row 10 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn.
Row 11 [RS]: K to end of round.

Break yarn B.
Final Round: With Yarn A, purl, working wrapped sts together with their wraps.

Bind off:
K2, insert left needle into the front of these two stitches going from left to right, knit these 2 stitches together, k1.  Repeat until you have bound off all the stitches. Cut yarn and pull through final st to secure.

You can use a sewn bind off if you prefer.

Bottom Edge
Still with inside of the tube facing, with Yarn A and DPNs or circular needle, pick up and knit the chain edges in the same way as for the peak. 30 sts.

Join for working in the round, distributing the sts as you prefer on the DPNs, or magic loop, or two circulars. Note or mark beginning of round.

Round 1: Purl.
Round 2: K5, kfb, k9, kfb, k9, kfb, k to end of round. 33 sts.
Join Yarn B.  When changing colors, be sure to keep your old yarn in front so that it doesn’t show on the right side.
Round 3: With Yarn B, purl.

Continuing only with Yarn B, work three short-row peaks as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: K9, wrap and turn.
Row 2 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn.
Row 3 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn.
Row 4 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn.
Row 5 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn.
Row 6 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn.
Row 7 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn.
Row 8 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn.
Row 9 [RS]: K15, working wrapped sts together with their wraps when you come to them, wrap and turn.
Row 10 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn
Row 11 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn.
Row 12 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn.
Row 13 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn.
Row 14 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn.
Row 15 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn.
Row 16 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn.
Row 17 [RS]: K15, working wrapped sts together with their wraps when you come to them, wrap and turn.
Row 18 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn.
Row 19 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn.
Row 20 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn.
Row 21 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn.
Row 22 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn.
Row 23 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn.
Row 24 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn.
Row 25 [RS]: K to end of round, working wrapped sts together with their wraps when you come to them.

Break yarn B.
Final Round: With Yarn A, purl, working wrapped sts together with their wraps.

Bind off as for top of cuff.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends.

If you use the Cash Iro/Cash Island combination, you'll have enough left over yarn to make a second pair if you don’t add the bottom cuff.

Brenna MacCrimmon sometimes works in libraries, frequently sings in Turkish and often knits. Home is where the Siamese are – Toronto. Blog-keeping is haphazard. Music happens.

It really looks like you can’t have too much Noro – or too many ukuleles.