Knitty: little purls of wisdom
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beauty shot
Tangy

It's all about the color and letting it take the forefront. When you set eyes on a particular colorway, you sometimes make a pledge to yourself: I will make you shine! This happens a lot when finding a fantastic fiber gradient. Using the technique of Navajo plying your singles allows for the colors to stay consistent with how they are represented in the fiber. This can easily be accomplished by separating the fiber into color breaks. It can also help keep your spinning project more manageable. The next step would be to divide the color breaks into equal strips, which can help to maintain an even single.

Once you've found the right size single, take a sample and attach it to an index card. Checking back to this reference card will also help to stay consistent from start to finish.

The act of Navajo playing (or chain plying) has you creating loops, which in turn generates a 3ply. These loops can be large or small and depending on the color breaks; this can also help create a smooth color change. A larger loop during the middle of color blocks will lend itself to longer distances between bumps. Having fewer bumps in your finished yarn is ideal, but when you're considering the transition from one color to the next, the distance between the bumps isn't as important as the color transition. Working a smaller loop during the color shifts will produce a yarn closer to the original fiber gradient.

Arlen allows for the color to speak volumes. Worked in the round, movement and flow are created with an added twist and a subtle lace pattern, while keeping it airy and light. The pattern allows the long color gradient to be the highlight. Choose the traditional cowl option and enjoy the beautiful drape of the fabric in this eye-catching accessory while not being too bulky.

Even more exciting than transforming color into shape is having an option to gain more coverage for those days when you need it. Choose the snood option and bask in the versatility the short-row shaping. This allows for the fabric to gently cover your head and neck in luxurious warmth or to simply wear it as a beautiful cowl. Some strategic short-row shaping transforms your standard tube into architecture.

spacer model + photos: Kris Carlson
 

SIZE
One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
COWL
Circumference: 25 inches
Length: 13 inches
Shown in rainbow handspun (above)

SNOOD
Circumference: 25 inches
Length: 18.5 inches (longest side)
Shown in purple commercial yarn (below)

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MATERIALS
Fiber:
spacer Fiber Optic [80% Merino & 20% silk, top]; color: Copper-Verdigris Layered Gradient; 4 ounces.


Finished Yarn:
spacer Wraps per inch: 16 (Finished plied yarn)
spacer Ply: Navajo
spacer Yardage used: 300 (for cowl), 390 (for snood)
spacer Drafting method: worsted

gearbox

Spinning Tool: Lendrum; double drive; scotch tension
Tensioned lazy kate

Commercial Yarn Alternative
spacer Fyberspates, Scrumptious 4ply [55% Merino & 45% Silk; 399 y/365 m per 100g skein]; Purple: 305; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle

Tools
spacer yarn needle
spacer 1 stitch marker

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GAUGE

24 sts/36 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
23 sts/36 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch, after blocking
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

If you wish to make the piece longer, work until it's the size desired, making sure you leave 10-15 g of yarn for the garter edge and bind-off.

Lace Pattern (Over 8 sts, in the round)
Notes: The start of the round is moved at the beginning of Round 5 and at the end of Round 6.
When transitioning in the lace pattern from the end of round 8 and from the beginning of round 1, you'll have two yarn overs with a stitch marker in between. To handle this transition you'll knit the first stitch of round 2 through the back loop.

Rnd 1: [Yo, SSK, k1, k2tog, yo, k3] to end.

Rnd 2: K1 tbl, yo, SSK, k5, [k1, yo, SSK, k5] to end.

Rnd 3: [K2, yo, SSK, k1, k2tog, yo, k1] to end.

Rnd 4: [K3, yo, SSK, k3] to end.

Rnd 5: Remove marker, k1, pm, [k3, yo, SSK, k1, k2tog, yo] to end.

Rnd 6: [K4, yo, SSK, k2] to last 8 sts, k4, yo, SSK, k1. This is the new start of round.

Rnd 7: [K1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, SSK] to end.

Rnd 8: K1, SSK, k4, yo, [SSK, k6, yo] to last st. Slip this st, remove the marker; slip the stitch back to the left needle, and replace the marker. The marker will be immediately after a yarnover, and the first st of the next round is also a yarnover.

DIRECTIONS

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COWL
CO 144 sts. Do not join. Knit 10 rows.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Next round: Work Lace pattern around.

Work as set until you have completed 14 repeats of the 8-round lace pattern, or piece is an inch short of desired length.

The rest of the cowl will be worked flat.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit to end. Remove marker, and turn.
Working back and forth in rows, knit 9 more rows.

BO as follows:
K2, [slip both sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1] to end.

SNOOD
CO 144 sts. Do not join.
Knit 10 rows.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Next round: Work Lace pattern around.

Work as set until you have completed 2 repeats of the 8-round lace pattern.

*Work Short-row Garter Wedge as follows:
Note that you'll be working back and forth in rows across the center marker. You will always change between knits and purls at the marker.

Row 1 [RS]: K48, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: K to marker, sm, p48, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: P to marker, sm, k40, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: K to marker, sm, p40, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: P to marker, sm, k32, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: K to marker, sm, p32, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: P to marker, sm, k24, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: K to marker, sm, p24, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: P to marker, sm, k16, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: K to marker, sm, p16, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: P to marker, sm, k8, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: K to marker, sm, p8, turn.
Row 13 [RS] P to marker.

Work 1 repeat of Lace Pattern.
Repeat from * 8 more times.

Work 1 more repeat of Lace pattern.

The rest of the cowl will be worked flat.

Row 1 [RS]: Knit to end. Remove marker, and turn.
Working back and forth in rows, knit 9 more rows.
BO as follows: K2, [slip both sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1] to end.

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FINISHING
Use the tails to seam garter edges together. Block and weave in ends.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Kris Carlson finds inspiration in many forms, so she always carries around a sketch book to capture those moments. She loves to discover texture, shape and color through fiber arts. For her, knitting is an added artistic relief from the hectic life as an Graphic Artist living in the Chicagoland area.

You can read about her spontaneous moments as a Knitter, Mother and Designer on her blog.

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