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Lion Brand Yarns

This shrug was inspired by the fabulous yet unpredictable culture and style of the city of San Francisco. The wind from the Bay can cause the temperature to drop at a moment’s notice, making layering pieces a must. This adaptable garment makes a perfect accessory; it may be worn open or closed, over a simple tank or lightweight sweater, and will carry you through many months of the year. Due to the relaxed design and shape, each size will fit a range of body types. To minimize seaming, this garment is worked in one piece.

The yarn I’ve used comes from a little gem of a shop off Union Square, called Artfibers, which carries its own line of utterly unique and high-quality yarns. For those who prefer not to use wool due to the mulesing controversy, a good substitute might be Reynold’s Blizzard, made with 65% alpaca and 35% acrylic (please remember to swatch in order to check your gauge).

Note on color: When I initially bought the yarn for this project I neglected to purchase enough, and had to finish with yarn from a different dye-lot. Although it appears that I have used a contrast color for the sleeves and neckline border, they are actually the same color from two different dye-lots.

model: Ashley Adams Moncrief photos:Monty Moncrief

SIZE
XS/S [M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X] (shown in size XS/S)
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 32[40, 48, 56] inches
Length (from back neck): 17.5[18.5, 19.5, 20.5] inches

 
MATERIALS

Artfibers Triple Cheesecake [30% silk/70% Extrafine Merino Wool; 52 yards/47.5m per 100g cone (available in multiple cone sizes)]; color # 4; 700[950, 1200, 1500]g
Note: For those who wish to us a contrast color for the collar and sleeves, the required yarn amounts are as follows:
MC: 600[800, 1000, 1250]g
CC: 200[300, 350, 450]g


Recommended needle size:
1 set US #11/8.0mm straight or circular needles
1 set US #13/9.0mm straight or circular needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Stitch holders
Safety pins
Crochet hook, close in size to US #15/9mm (exact size is not important)
Tapestry needle
Button

GAUGE

9.5 sts/14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st after blocking, using larger needles
10.5 sts/16 rows = 4 inches in Seed Stitch after blocking, using smaller needles

 
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

Short row tips:
Knitting wraps together with sts: Insert right needle under wrap as if to k, then into wrapped st; k wrap together with st.

Purling wraps together with sts: Insert right needle into wrapped st, then under wrap as if to p; p wrap together with st.

Selvedge Stitches:
When instructed to work selvedge sts, work them as follows:
On RS rows: Sl first st purlwise. K last st.
On WS rows: Sl first st knitwise. P last st.
This will create one ‘selvedge knot’ for every two rows along the edge of work, which will help with with seaming and picking up sts.

Seed Stitch (Worked over an even number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for Seed Stitch.

Ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
Using larger needles, CO 36[46, 54, 64] sts.

Working selvedge sts as directed in Pattern Notes, work 4[6, 4, 4] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Note: Continue working selvedge sts as set until otherwise directed.

*Increase Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2.

Work 5 rows in stockinette st.

Work Increase Row 1.

Work 3[3, 5, 5] rows in stockinette st.*

Repeat from * 3 times more, then work Increase Row once more. 54[64, 72, 82] sts.

Work 5[7, 5, 7] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row. 50[54, 58, 60] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 14.5[15.75, 16.75, 17.25] inches.

Work Increase Row 1.
P 1 row.

Increase Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, [k1, m1] twice, k to last 3 sts, m1, k, m1, k2. 60[70, 78, 88] sts.

P 1 row.

[Work Increase Row 1. P 1 row] twice. 64[74, 82, 92] sts.

Work Increase Row 2. 68[78, 86, 96] sts.

P 1 row. 60[64, 68, 70] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 17.5[18.5, 19.5, 20.5] inches.

LEFT FRONT
Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k1, m1, k20[23, 26, 30], place 23[26, 29, 33] sts just worked on st holder for right front; k next 24[28, 30, 32] sts and place them on a second st holder for back neck; k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. 23[26, 29, 33] sts.

P 1 row; CO 1 st at end of this row. 24[27, 30, 34] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2.

Work 1[3, 1, 3] rows in stockinette st.

**Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k1, m1, k2.

Work 1[1, 3, 3] rows in stockinette st.

Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2.

P 1 row.

Repeat these 2 rows once more.**

Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more. 41[44, 47, 51] sts.

Work 0[2, 0, 2] rows in stockinette st. 88[96, 104, 110] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 25.5[28, 30, 32] inches.

Shape Lower Edge:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 4 sts, [k2tog] twice. Slipped selvedge sts will no longer be  worked at side edge. 39[42, 45, 49] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 1 st, p to end. 38[41, 44, 48] sts.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 37[40, 43, 47] sts.
Row 4 [WS]: BO 2 sts, p to end. 35[38, 41, 45] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Work as for Row 3. 34[37, 40, 44] sts.
Row 6 [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end. 31[34, 37, 41] sts.
Row 7 [RS]: Work as for Row 3.
BO remaining 30[33, 36, 40] sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Place  23[26, 29, 33] held sts of right front on needles with WS facing and rejoin yarn at neckline edge. CO 1 st and p to end. 24[27, 30, 34] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k to end.
Work 1[3, 1, 3] rows in stockinette st.

**Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, [k1, m1] twice, k to end.
Work 1[1, 3, 3] sts in stockinette st.

Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.**

Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more. 41[44, 47, 51] sts.

Work 0[2, 0, 2] rows in stockinette st. 88[96, 104, 110] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 25.5[28, 30, 32] inches.

Shape Lower Edge:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. Slipped selvedge sts will no longer be  worked at side edge. 39[42, 45, 49] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 38[41, 44, 48] sts.
Row 3 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. 36[39, 42, 46] sts.
Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. 35[38, 41, 45] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: BO 3 sts. 32[35, 38, 42] sts.
Row 6 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.
BO remaining 31[34, 37, 41] sts.

SLEEVES
The selvedge sts will have created knots along the side edges of the garment, each knot representing 2 rows of work. Count 6[7, 7, 8] knots in from each end of one side edge, and use a safety pin to mark these knots.

There will be 32[34, 38, 39] knots between marked knots.

With WS facing, using larger needles and beginning with knot next to marked knot, pick up and k 47[52, 56, 59] sts along edge between pins; this will be approx. 3 sts for every 4 rows.

Row 1 [RS]: K all sts.

Row 2 [WS]: P all sts.

Row 3 [RS]: K to last 4 sts, W&T.

Row 4 [WS]: P to last 4 sts, W&T.

Row 5 [RS]: K to last 8 sts, W&T.

Row 6 [WS]: P to last 8 sts, W&T.

Row 7 [RS]: K to last 12 sts, W&T.

Row 8 [WS]: P to last 12 sts, W&T.

Row 9 [RS]: K to last 16 sts, W&T.

Row 10 [WS]: P to last 16 sts, W&T.

Row 11 [RS]: K to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts.

Row 12 [WS]: P all sts, working wraps together with wrapped sts.

Row 13 [RS]: K all sts.

Fold sleeve in half towards RS, forming a sleeve ‘roll’ with WS facing. Use crochet hook to pull each live st, one at a time, through from RS to WS, pulling each st through selvedge in the same space in which it was originally picked-up. Being careful not to drop, place each st on smaller needle as it is pulled through. When all sts have been pulled through to WS and sleeve ‘roll’ has been closed, use larger needle to BO all sts.

COLLAR
Using smaller needle with WS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each knot along vertical neckline edge; place held sts of neckline on needle and p these sts; pick up and k 1 st in each knot along remaining vertical neckline edge (be sure you have picked up the same number of sts as along the first vertical edge). Approx. 84[92, 98, 102] sts.
Note: Don't worry if you get a different number of sts. The important thing is to pick them up as directed.

Work 4 rows in Seed Stitch.
Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: Work 3 sts in pattern, BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to bound-off sts, CO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Work 6 rows in Seed Stitch.
BO all sts knitwise with WS facing.

FINISHING

Block garment to measurements shown in schematic.
Sew side edges together below sleeves, as shown in schematic.
Weave in ends. Try on garment to determine best button placement, and sew on button.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Ashley knits and designs in Texas. She is a returning designer to Knitty and is presently working on putting together her own website.

She has recently become more educated about the current animal cruelty issues associated with using wool, and will be making every effort to find high-quality alternative yarns and fibers until the problem is resolved. In the meantime, she will continue to create designs inspired by fashion, quality, and compassion.