Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Kitchen Sink Dyeworks
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Curves, it's all about the curves. From the arching lacey cable to the hug of the hip to the graceful swoop of the hemline, this little tee is an ode to the curve.

Knit in one piece from the neck down, Rondeur features clean internal waist shaping and an easier-than-it-looks short-row curved hem (Seriously, and still in one piece, too!). A beginner-friendly straight hemmed option is also included. Simple twisted rib edgings finish off the piece.

 
spacer model: Clair McLafferty spacer photos: Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 26[30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50] inches
Length at center back: 19.5[20.25, 21.5, 23, 23.75, 25.25, 26] inches with straight hem, or 24.5[25.25, 26.5, 28, 28.75, 30.25, 31] inches with curved hem
Note: Choose a size with 0-3 inches negative ease.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Kitchen Sink Dyeworks Silk DK [58% superwash merino wool, 42% silk; 240yd/219m per 100g skein]; color: Sprout; 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles
spacer 24 inch US #3/3.25mm circular needle
spacer 24 inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
Note: Larger sizes may prefer to also have a longer needle in the larger size.

Notions
spacer 8 stitch markers – be sure one is a different color or type from the others
spacer Cable needle
spacer Waste yarn
spacer Yarn needle

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GAUGE

20 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette st using larger needle, after blocking

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

spacer1x1 Twisted Rib
(Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
All Rounds: [K1 tbl, p1] to end.

C2F: Sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to front of work; k1 from left needle, k1 from cable needle.

C3BP: Sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k1 from left neede, p2 from cable needle.

C3FP: Sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to front of work; p2 from left needle, k1 from cable needle.

M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

yo2: Yarn over twice (wrap yarn twice around right needle, from front to back).

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.

DIRECTIONS
YOKE
Using smaller circular needle, CO 90[102, 110, 118, 134, 138, 150] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round; use marker which is different from the others.

Work 1 round in 1x1 Twisted Rib, placing markers as follows: *work 6 sts, place marker, work 8[8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10] sts, place marker, work 6 sts, place marker, work 25[31, 35, 39, 45, 47, 53] sts, place marker; repeat from * once.

Continue in 1x1 Twisted Rib until work measures 1 inch.

Switching to larger circular needle, establish pattern for yoke as follows, beginning with Round 1 of chart:

Yoke Increase Round: *Work 6 sts following chart, slip marker, yo, k to next marker, yo, slip marker; repeat from * three times more. 8 sts increased.

Next Round: *Work 6 sts following chart, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker; repeat from * three times more.

Repeat these 2 rounds 11[12, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22] times more. 186[206, 230, 262, 286, 314, 334] sts: 6 sts for each chart panel, 32[34, 38, 44, 48, 54, 56] sts for each sleeve, and 49[57, 65, 75, 83, 91, 99] sts each for front and back.

Next Round: Remove end-of-round marker, k3, replace end-of-round marker (this point will now be beginning of round), k3, remove marker, *k to next marker, remove marker, k3, place marker, k3, remove marker; repeat from * twice more, k to end of round. 38[40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 62] sts for each sleeve, 55[63, 71, 81, 89, 97, 105] sts each for front and back.

K 5 rounds.

LOWER BODY
Remove existing markers when working next round, and place new markers as indicated. Use backward loop method for casting on underarm sts.

Dividing Round: Place all sts to first marker on waste yarn for sleeve, CO 10[12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts for underarm, placing end-of-round marker after first 5[6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts; k to second marker, place all sts to third marker on waste yarn for sleeve, CO 10[12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts for underarm, placing side marker after first 5[6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts; k to end of round. 130[150, 170, 190, 210, 230, 250] sts.

K 1 round, placing markers for waist shaping as follows: *k20[24, 27, 31, 34, 37, 40], place marker, k24[26, 30, 32, 36, 40, 44], place marker, k21[25, 28, 32, 35, 38, 41]; repeat from * once.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 3[3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.5] inches from underarm, or approx. 4 inches less than desired length to waist.

Decrease Round: [K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k1, k2tog] twice, k to side marker; [k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k1, k2tog] twice, k to end of round. 8 sts decreased.

K 3 rounds.

Repeat these 4 rounds four times more. 90[110, 130, 150, 170, 190, 210] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 7.25[7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5] inches from underarm, or desired length to waist.

Increase Round: [K to marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L] twice, k to side marker; [k to marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, M1L] twice, k to end of round. 8 sts increased.
K 3 rounds.
Repeat these 4 rounds four times more. 130[150, 170, 190, 210, 230, 250] sts.

When working next round, remove waist shaping markers, leaving side marker and end-of-round marker in place.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 13[13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16] inches from underarm, or desired length to top hip.
Note: It is a good idea to transfer sts to waste yarn and try on garment before proceeding, especially if working curved hem. Lower edge of garment should reach to top of hip bone before beginning curved shaping, to help prevent hem from flipping up or drooping. Alter length as necessary.

Work either curved hem or straight hem as follows.

Curved Hem:
Curved hem is shaped using short rows.

Row 1 [RS]: K to 8[9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] sts before side marker, W&T.

Row 2 [WS]: P to 8[9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] sts before end-of-round marker, W&T.

*Row 3 [RS]: K to 1 st before wrapped st, W&T.

Row 4 [WS]: P to 1 st before wrapped st, W&T.

Repeat Rows 3-4 nine times more.

Next Row [RS]: K to 2 sts before wrapped st, W&T.

Next Row [WS]: P to 2 sts before wrapped st, W&T.

Repeat these 2 rows three times more.*

Next Row [RS]: K to side marker, working wraps together with wrapped sts; k to 8[9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] sts before end-of-round marker, W&T.

Next Row [WS]: P to 8[9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] sts before side marker, W&T.

Repeat from * to *.

K to end-of-round marker, working wraps together with wrapped sts.

K 1 round, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts.

Using smaller circular needle, work 4 rounds Twisted 1x1 Rib. Loosely BO all sts.

Straight Hem:
Using smaller circular needle, work 4 rounds Twisted 1x1 Rib. Loosely BO all sts.

SLEEVE EDGING
Place held sts of one sleeve on double-point needles. With RS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each cast on underarm st. Work 4 rounds Twisted 1x1 Rib. Loosely BO all sts.
Work edging on remaining sleeve opening in the same way.

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FINISHING
Weave in ends and block lightly.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark is an indie dyer, knitwear designer, and artist living in Alabama.

Visit her at kitchensinkdyeworks and piebirddesign.

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