Madeira Mantilla (Ethnic Knitting Adventures): Knitty Spring+Summer 2012

by Donna Druchunas,
photos by Dominic Cotignola, Lace doilies knit by Ava Coleman

My interest in knitting has been kept alive over the years by the almost infinite variety of color, pattern, and texture that is found in collections of knitters and museums around the world. Although I love the smooth, quiet repetition of knitting a rectangular scarf in garter stitch using a luxurious yarn, it is the endless diversity of technique and style that keeps me interested in knitting as more than a way to keep my hands busy while watching TV.

“It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.”
--from The Lord of The Rings by J.R.R. Tolkien

by Donna Druchunas

In her article Catalan Knit Lace in Threads Magazine, knitting author and historian Montse Stanley mentions women knitting shawls in the same designs used for doilies and mats. Inspired by her thoughts, I've used traditional Spanish lace stitches to design this mantilla, which I wear over my shoulders rather than as a head covering.

This mantilla is worked back and forth in rows from the neck down, with increases at the two shoulders to create a better fit and drape than is possible with a straight rectangular stole. After the shaping is complete, a wide border is knitted, then stitches are picked up around the entire piece and the edging is worked from the center out in the round.

photos: Dominic Cotignola

SIZE
One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length along straight side edge: 16"
Width along curved bottom edge: 56"

MATERIALS
Yarn
KnitPicks Shadow Tonal Lace Yarn, (100% Merino Wool, 440 yards/50g hank), 2 hanks in Gypsy (red)

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
#2 US (2.75mm) circular needle at least 24" long

Notions
Size B-1 (2.25mm) crochet hook
yarn needle
no-rinse wool-wash soap (optional)
towel
blocking board
blocking wires and/or rust proof pins

GAUGE

Approx 22 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches over Madeira Mesh stitch, after blocking
Gauge is not critical for this project.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Be VERY careful working the p3tog and p2tog tbl stitches as it is quite easy to miss a loop and drop a stitch while working these decreases.

Check your work carefully before wetting and blocking and secure any dropped stitches as you weave in the ends so they do not run when you stretch the piece to block it. To secure a dropped stitch from a decrease, use a tapestry needle to thread a 6-inch piece of yarn through the dropped stitch and pull it through the back of the decreases to which the stitch should belong, on the WS. Tie a square knot, which will be hidden by the decrease, and weave in the tails. Trim the ends after blocking.

Both Spanish lace stitch patterns used are featured in Barbara Walker's First Treasury and James Norbury's Traditional Knitting Patterns. I've charted the patterns, and created a circular version of the mesh pattern to use as an edging on this mantilla.

For the increases before the Border, use your favourite. Placement and type of increase doesn't matter, as it's hidden in the garter stitch.

Charts
The charts for this pattern are very large and fit on a letter-sized page.
Click here and print the resulting page.

DIRECTIONS

CO 185 sts.

Setup row [WS]: [K61, pm, k1, pm] twice, k61.

Body
Row 1 [RS]: [Work Madeira Mesh chart to marker, slip marker, yo, k to next marker, yo, slip marker] twice, work Madeira Mesh to end. 4 sts increased.

Rows 2-6 [WS]: [Work Madeira Mesh chart to marker, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker] twice, work Madeira Mesh to end.

Row 7 [RS]: Rep Row 1.

Row 8-12 [WS]:Rep Row 2.

Work in pattern as set, increasing every 1st and 7th row, until you have 13 sts between markers, ending after a full repeat of the Madeira Mesh is complete. 209 sts.

Note: As you work the following rows, take the increased sts into the Madeira Mesh pattern.

Row 1 [RS]: [Work Madeira Mesh chart to marker, slip marker, yo, work Madeira Mesh chart to marker, yo, slip marker] twice, work Madeira Mesh to end. 4 sts increased.

Rows 2-6 [WS]: [Work Madeira Mesh chart to marker, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker] twice, work Madeira Mesh to end.

Row 7 [RS]: Rep Row 1.

Row 8-12 [WS]:Rep Row 2.

Work in pattern as set, increasing every 1st and 7th row, and taking the increased sts into the Madeira mesh pattern, until you have 35 sts between markers, ending after a full repeat of the Madeira Mesh is complete. 253 sts.

Border
Knit 3 rows.

Increase row [WS]: K19, [m1, k18] 13 times. 266 sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K2, pm, work Madeira Leaf Border chart across next 264 sts, pm, k2.

Row 2 [WS]: K2, work Madeira Leaf Border chart across next 264 sts, k2.

Work as set until all 41 rows of chart have been worked once.

Edging
Knit 2 rows.

Decrease row [WS]: K132, k2tog, k132. 265 sts.

Setup [RS]: Knit across. Do not turn, (pm, m1 with backwards-loop CO at corner, pm), pick up and knit 79 sts across side of piece; (pm, m1, pm) at next corner; pick up and knit 181 sts across CO edge; (pm, m1, pm) at next corner; pick up and knit 79 sts across other side of piece, (pm, m1). Join to work in the round, placing a contrasting color marker for beginning of round. 608 sts.

Edging round: [Work Madeira Mesh Circular pattern to first corner marker, work Edging Corner chart between corner markers] four times.
Work as set until all 7 rows of chart have been worked. 15 sts between corner markers; 664 sts total.

BO with crochet chain bind-off as follows: *Insert hook into 2 live sts on knitting needle and make 1 sc, *chain 5, make sc in next 3 live sts together; rep from * to last 2 sts on side, chain 5, make sc in next 2 live sts together, (chain 5, make sc into next 3 sts together) five times for corner, chain 5. Repeat from * three more times. Join with a slip st. Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Trim the ends after blocking.

Wash and block to finished dimensions as follows: Soak in tepid water (with no-rinse wool-wash soap if desired) until saturated. Squeeze out excess water by rolling the mantilla in a towel and stepping on it (do not wring). Place mantilla on blocking board, and pin in place by putting one pin in each crochet chain space and pulling gently away from the edge of the piece with the pin to open up the point. Do not over stretch the mantilla. You want the garter stitch to maintain its texture. Allow to dry fully before removing pins.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Donna Druchunas escaped a corporate cubicle to honor her passions for knitting, world travel, research, and writing. She is the author of six knitting books including Arctic Lace, Successful Lace Knitting, Kitty Knits, and Ethnic Knitting Exploration: Lithuania, Iceland, and Ireland. She teaches in the United States in Europe and has just started offering online sock-knitting classes at Craftsy.com.

Visit Donna's website at sheeptoshawl.com.