Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Chic.a
Title
beauty shot
Tangy

Flaming June is a lightweight A-line cardigan in crisp, breathable hemp that will take you through warm spring days, cool summer evenings and gentle autumn afternoons with ease.

Mitered decreases provide fluidity and interest at the hips, and are echoed at the sleeve cuffs. The minimalist design is worked in one piece to the armholes. It is self-finished with bands of ribbing edging the fronts that continue up to a narrow shawl collar, with no buttons to interrupt the flowing lines.


spacer model: Cheryl Niamath
spacer photos: Paul Lesack


 

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X]
[shown in size S with 2 inches negative ease at bust]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 30[34, 38, 41.5, 44.5, 48, 52] inches
Waist: 27[31, 35, 37, 40, 44, 48] inches


MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer [MC] Lanaknits Hemp for Knitting Allhemp 3[100% long fibre hemp; 164yd/150m per 50g skein]; 6[7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11] skeins Brick
spacer [CC] Lanaknits Hemp for Knitting Allhemp 3[100% long fibre hemp; 164yd/150m per 50g skein]; 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3] skein[s] Pumpkin
Note: other colour combinations to try:
MC Raspberry + CC Aubergine;
MC Deep Sea + CC Marble;
MC Sprout + CC Classic


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle

Notions
spacer removable stitch markers
spacer stitch holders or smooth cotton scrap yarn
spacer yarn needle

GAUGE

24 sts/28 rows= 4" in patt after blocking
Note: Gauge will not be accurate before blocking; the yarn relaxes and the fabric becomes much smoother.

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This cardigan is meant to be close-fitting at the bust, but swingy at the hips. Choose a size that matches or is slightly smaller than your actual bust measurement.

Mitered decrease: Work to 2 sts before marker; insert needle into these 2 sts as if to k2tog, and slip to right needle without working them; remove marker, knit next st; pass 2 slipped sts over st just worked. 2 sts decreased. Replace marker.

Kitchener stitch: Hold knitting needles parallel with tips pointing in the same direction and right sides facing out.

Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on needle closest to you as if to purl, pull yarn through, leave stitch on needle.

Thread yarn through first stitch on back needle as if to knit, leave stitch on needle. Pull yarn through.

*Thread yarn through first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, slip stitch off needle.

Thread yarn through next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, leave stitch on needle, pull the yarn through.

Thread yarn through first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, slip stitch off needle.

Thread yarn through next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, leave stitch on needle, pull yarn through.

Rep from * until all stitches have been worked.

Edge Stitch:
For a seed st edge:
First 8 and last 8 sts of RS rows: [k1, p1] 4 times
First 8 and last 8 sts of WS rows: [p1,k1] 4 times

For a ribbed edge (as shown in the photos):
RS rows: first 8 sts [k1p1] 4 times; last 8 sts [p1k1] 4 times
WS rows: first 8 sts [p1k1] 4 times; last 8 sts [k1p1] 4 times.

Garter Ridge:
Rows 1, 3, 5 [RS]: Knit.
Rows 2, 4 [WS]: Purl.
Row 6 [WS]: Knit.
Rep Rows 1-6 for Garter Ridge patt.

Reverse Garter Ridge [used for front collar sections]:
Rows 1, 3, 5 [RS]: Purl.
Rows 2, 4 [WS]: Knit.
Row 6 [WS]: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-6 for Reverse Garter Ridge patt.

DIRECTIONS
LOWER BODY
Note: This section is worked with ribbed front edges. Be sure to work the first and last 8 sts of each row using the edge stitch patt.

Markers are not placed at the exact sides of work for mitered decreases. They will be moved to the sides before increases are worked.

With CC, CO 240[272, 296, 320, 342, 380, 398] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: Work edge st, purl to last 8 sts, work edge st. Pm after 63rd[71st, 77th, 83rd, 89th, 98th, 103rd] and 177th[201st, 219th, 237th, 253rd, 282nd, 294th] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: Work edge st, knit to last 8 sts, work edge st.

Decrease Row [RS]: Continuing edge stitch, beg Garter Ridge patt; work mitred decreases at each marker; work to end. [236 (268, 292, 316, 338, 376, 394) sts] Work WS row even.

Work mitred decreases at each marker every RS row in this manner 13 (13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15) times more, then every second RS row 3 (5, 5, 6, 7, 9, 9) times, switching from CC to MC after four garter ridge pattern repeats are completed. 172, (196, 220, 232, 250, 280, 298) sts

Work even for 3.25[3.25, 3.25, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5] inches.

Before starting increases, move markers as follows: work to first marker, slip marker, work 1 st, replace marker; work to second marker, remove marker, slip st just worked back to left needle, pm, replace st on right needle; work to end. Markers are now placed after 47th[53rd, 59th, 62nd, 67th, 74th, 79th] and 125th[143rd, 161st, 170th, 183rd, 206th, 219th] sts.

Next Row [RS]: Work to 2 sts before marker, kfb, work to marker, sl marker, k1, kfb, work to 2 sts before 2nd marker, kfb, work to marker, sl marker, k1, kfb, work to end.

Work increases every 6th row 3[4, 4, 6, 6, 5, 5] more times. 16[20, 20, 28, 28, 24, 24] sts inc; 188[216, 240, 260, 278, 304, 322] sts

Work even until work measures 16.5[17, 17.5, 19. 20.5, 21, 22] inches from CO edge [measured at front edge], ending on a WS row, or desired length to armholes.

Upper Fronts and Back
Note: Continue working edge stitch at left front. Do not work edge stitch at armhole edge.

Left Front
On next RS row, work across row to second marker, remove marker, BO 2[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, work to end. Work WS row in patt to bound-off sts. Leave remaining sts on needle to keep work from stretching.
Next Row [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts, work in patt to end. Work WS row even.
Next 3[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 7] RS rows: K3, ssk, work in patt to end. 44[48, 54, 57, 60, 66, 70] sts

Work even until armhole measures 1.25[1.75, 2, 1.75, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5] inches, ending with a RS row. Shape Collar:
Next Row [WS]: After edging, work 1 st in Reverse Garter Ridge patt, Pm, switch to regular Garter Ridge patt and work to end.

Next Row [RS]: Work in Garter Ridge patt to marker, slip marker and switch to Reverse Garter Ridge for 1 st, work edge st to end of row.

Next Row [WS]: After edging, work 2 sts Reverse Garter Ridge patt, removing marker and replacing it after 2nd reverse st, switch to Garter Ridge patt for remainder of row.

Continue in this manner, working one additional stitch in Reverse Garter Ridge patt for collar each RS row until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 10, 10.5] inches, collar section in Reverse Garter Ridge patt is 16[18, 22, 23, 26, 26, 27] sts wide [+ 8 edge sts] and 20[22, 24, 26, 26, 32, 36] sts remain for shoulder.

BO shoulder sts and place collar sts on holder or scrap yarn.

BACK
Note: Do not work edge stitch on back armhole edges.

Join yarn at left armhole edge [WS] and immediately BO 2[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, work to remaining marker, remove marker, turn work [leaving remaining sts on needle to keep work from stretching].

BO 2[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts and work to end.

BO 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 5] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next 3[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 7] RS rows: K3, ssk, work in patt to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. 72[80, 92, 98, 102, 116, 122] sts.

Work even until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 10, 10.5] inches and Back row count matches Left Front row count.

BO 20[22, 24, 26, 26, 32, 36] sts for shoulder, place next 32[36, 44, 46, 50, 52, 52] sts on holder or scrap yarn for back neck, and BO remaining 20[22, 24, 26, 26, 32, 36] sts for opposite shoulder.

Right Front
Note: Continue working edge stitch at right front. Do not work edge stitch at armhole edge.
Join yarn at right armhole edge [WS] and immediately BO 2[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, then work in patt to end. Work RS row even.

Next Row [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts, work in patt to end.

Next 3[4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 7] RS rows, work in patt to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.

Continue working even until armhole measures 1.25:[1.75, 2, 1.75, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Collar:
Next Row [WS]: Work to 1 st before edging, pm, work 1 st Reverse Garter Ridge patt, work to end.

Continue shaping collar as for Left Front, working 1 additional st in Reverse Garter Ridge patt for collar every WS row, until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 10, 10.5]] inches, collar section in Reverse Garter Ridge patt is 16[18, 22, 23, 26, 26, 27] sts wide [+ 8 edge sts] and 20[22, 24, 26, 26, 32, 36] sts remain for shoulder, and Right Front row count matches Back and Left Front row counts.

BO shoulder sts and place collar sts on holder or scrap yarn.

Shoulder Seams
Sew left front shoulder to left back shoulder, and right front shoulder to right back shoulder.

Finish Collar
Note: Continue working edge stitch at left front. Do not work edge stitch at armhole edge.

Slip remaining Left Front sts from holder back to needle and join yarn at collar edge.

Maintaining Reverse Garter Ridge patt already established for collar section, work first row.

Next Row [WS]: Work to last 3 sts, wrap and turn.

Work RS row even.

Next Row [WS]: Work to last 2 sts, picking up previous wrap and working it together with stitch, wrap and turn.

Work 3 rows even.

Next Row [WS]: Work to last 2 sts, wrap and turn. Work RS row even.

Next Row [WS]: Work to last 3 sts, wrap and turn.

Work even until collar measures half the length of the back neckline. Place sts on holder.

Rep with Right Front collar, being careful to maintain Reverse Garter Ridge patt previously established, and work until Right collar is same length as Left collar.

Leave sts on needle, replace Left collar sts on needle and either graft collar sections together using Kitchener stitch, or BO Left and Right collar sections and carefully seam together.


RIGHT SLEEVE
Note: Sleeves are worked in Garter Ridge patt with no edging.
CO 54[56, 60, 62, 66, 76, 76] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Purl, pm 20[20, 20, 30, 30, 30, 30] sts from beginning of row.
Row 2 [WS]: Knit.
Start working Garter Ridge patt, and work mitered decreases every RS row 6 times. 42[44, 48, 50, 54, 64, 64] sts

Next Row [RS]: K2, kfb, work to last 3 sts, kfb, k2.
Work WS row even.

Continue in patt, working increases every 6th row 6[6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 9] more times, then every 8th row 8[10, 10, 10, 10, 11, 10] times. 72[78, 82, 84, 90, 102, 108] sts

Continue in patt until sleeve measures 17[19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22] inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row. To make sleeve longer, work extra rows in this section; to make sleeve shorter, work fewer rows in this section.

At beginning of next 2 rows, BO 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, work in patt to end.

Next Row [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts, work to end.

Next Row [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts, work to last 2 sts and leave these unworked. 62[66, 70, 72, 74, 86, 92] sts

Turn work, leaving yarn in back;
slip the first st on left needle to right needle as if to purl, slip 2 unworked sts from previous row over this slipped st to decrease 2 sts.

In this manner, decrease 2 sts at the beginning of each RS and WS row 13[13, 13, 13, 12, 20, 25] more times, then decrease 1 st at the beginning of each row 6[8, 10, 12, 16, 10, 2] times. 28[30, 32, 32, 34, 36, 38] sts

BO 3 sts at the beginning of next 4 rows.

BO remaining 16[18, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26] sts.

LEFT SLEEVE
Work same as for Right sleeve, but place marker 20[20, 20, 30, 30, 30, 30] sts from end of row.

FINISHING
Sew sleeves into armholes. Attach collar to back neck. Weave in ends and block.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Cheryl Niamath lives and knits in Vancouver, Canada. She's excited to announce that her first collection of patterns has been published! Covet: small warm things to knit & wear is now available as hard copy or digital download. Her designs Fetching, Dashing, Wisp, Percy, Miss Honeychurch and Mr. Darcy have appeared in previous editions of Knitty. She's also been published in knitscene and Interweave Knits.

See her new book and more of her designs and ideas on her website or find her on Ravelry as CherylN.

 

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