by Karen Clark

This stretchy lace tunic uses a recycled silk/cotton/viscose yarn and is perfect for warm summer days. Pair it with your favorite tank top and summer skirt, or a long sleeve t-shirt and jeans for the transitional seasons!

Jirachi starts by working two identical panels for the tunic bottom. Once complete, you join them to work the lace pattern in the round for the body, to the armholes. At the break, small "sleeves" are added to the top portion, ending with ribbing and a three needle bind-off at the shoulders. It is intended to be worn with little or no ease.

Named for the adorably star-shaped Pokemon, Jirachi, who has the power to grant wishes and hibernates for extensive periods of time. Perhaps wearing this sweater will bring you prosperity and more sleep?

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X]
shown in size M with 4 inches negative ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length: 27.5[28, 28.5, 29, 29.5, 30, 30.5] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Rowan Purelife Revive [36% recycled silk, 36% recycled cotton, 28% rayon; 137 yds/125 m per 50g ball]; color: Ironstone #467; 9[10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17] balls

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
2 24-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needles (or one set of interchangeable needles with a spare cable to hold sts)
1 set US #4/3.5mm double-point needles

Notions
Yarn needle
Cable needle
Stitch markers
Stitch holders

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

It is more important to match the designated stitch gauge since this determines the size of the garment. You can adjust the length of the garment by knitting additional or fewer vertical pattern repeats.

I recommend using interchangeable needles, or two circular needles, to knit the front and back sections as it makes it easier to join together the front and back sections and start knitting in the round.

For the cabled cross over at the end of rnd 21 of Jirachi Chart B, you will hold the last 3 sts of this rnd to the back, remove the marker, knit the first two sts of rnd 22 FOR THIS REP ONLY, purl the last CN st, replace the marker, and knit the remaining CN sts, which become sts 1 and 2 going forward.

RPC: slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold to back of work, knit 2 stitches from left hand needle, bring yarn to front, slip last stitch on cable needle (purl stitch) back to left handle needle, purl this stitch, bring yarn to back of work, knit remaining 2 stitches from cable needle

JIRACHI-CHART A (ROWS 1-28)
Row 1 [RS]: *yo, ssk, k3, p, k3, k2tog, yo, p, rep from * to end

Row 2 [WS]: *p, k, p4, k, p4, k, rep from * to end

Row 3 [RS]: *k, yo, ssk, k2, p, k2, k2tog, yo, k, p, rep from * to end

Row 4 [WS]: *p, k, p4, k, p4, k, rep from * to end

Row 5 [RS]: *k, p, yo, ssk, k, p, k, k2tog, yo, p, k, p, rep from * to end

Row 6 [WS]: *(p, k) twice, p2, k, p2, k, p, k, rep from * to end

Row 7 [RS]: *k, p, k, RCP (see notes), (k, p) twice, rep from * to end

Row 8 [WS]: *(p, k) twice, p2, k, p2, k, p, k, rep from * to end

Row 9 [RS]: *k, p, k2tog, yo, k, p, k, yo, ssk, p, k, p, rep from * to end
Row 10 [WS]: *p, k, p4, k, p4, k, rep from * to end
Row 11 [RS]: *k, k2tog, yo, k2, p, k2, yo, ssk, k, p, rep from * to end
Row 12 [WS]: *p, k, p4, k, p4, k rep from * to end
Row 13 [RS]: *k2tog, yo, k3, p, k3, yo, ssk, p, rep from * to end
Row 14 [WS]: *k, p5, rep from * to end
Row 15 [RS]: *k3, k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k3, p, rep from * to end
Row 16 [WS]: *k, p4, k, p, k, p4, rep from * to end
Row 17 [RS]: *k2, k2tog, yo, k, p, k, yo, ssk, k2, p, rep from * to end
Row 18 [WS]: *k, p4, k, p, k, p4, rep from * to end
Row 19 [RS]: *k, k2tog, yo, p, (k, p) twice, yo, ssk, k, p, rep from * to end
Row 20 [WS]: *k, p2, k, (p, k) three times, p2, rep from * to end
Row 21 [RS]: k2, *k, (p, k) three times, RCP, rep from * to last 10 stitches, k (p, k) three times, k2, p
Row 22 [WS]: *k, p2, k, (p, k) three times, p2, rep from * to end of round
Row 23 [RS]: *k, yo, ssk, p, (k, p) twice, k2tog, yo, k, p, rep from * to end
Row 24 [WS]: *k, p4, k, p, k, p4, rep from * to end
Row 25 [RS]: *k2, yo, ssk, k, p, k, k2tog, yo, k2, p, rep from * to end
Row 26 [WS]: *k, p4, k, p, k, p4, rep from * to end
Row 27 [RS]: *k3, yo, ssk, p, k2tog, yo, k3, p, rep from * to end
Row 28 [WS]: *k, p5, rep from * to end

JIRACHI-CHART B (ROUNDS 1-28)
Note: Please consider odd rounds as RS, even rounds as WS
Rnd 1: *yo, ssk, k3, p, k3, k2tog, yo, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 2: *p, k4, p, k4, p, k, repeat from * to end
Rnd 3: *k, yo, ssk, k2, p, k2, k2tog, yo, k, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 4: *p, k4, p, k4, p, k, repeat from * to end
Rnd 5: *k, p, yo, ssk, k, p, k, k2tog, yo, p, k, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 6: *p, k, p, k2, p, k2, p, k, p, k, repeat from * to end
Rnd 7: *k, p, k, RCP (see notes), (k, p) twice, repeat from * to end
Rnd 8: *p, k, p, k2, p, k2, (p, k) twice, repeat from * to end
Rnd 9: *k, p, k2tog, yo, k, p, k, yo, ssk, p, k, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 10: *p, k4, p, k4, p, k, repeat from * to end
Rnd 11: *k, k2tog, yo, k2, p, k2, yo, ssk, k, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 12: *p, k4, p, k4, p, k, repeat from * to end
Rnd 13: *k2tog, yo, k3, p, k3, yo, ssk, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 14: *k5, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 15: *k3, k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k3, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 16: *k4, p, k, p, k4, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 17: *k2, k2tog, yo, k, p, k, yo, ssk, k2, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 18: *k4, p, k, p, k4, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 19: *k, k2tog, yo, p, (k, p) twice, yo, ssk, k, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 20: * k2, p, (k, p) three times, k2, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 21: k2, *k, (p, k) three times, RCP, repeat from * to two sts after end of rnd marker (two sts taken from beg Rnd 22).
Rnd 22: p, (k, p) three times, k2, p, *k2, p, (k, p) three times, k2, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 23: *k, yo, ssk, p, (k, p) twice, k2tog, yo, k, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 24: *k4, p, k, p, k4, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 25: *k2, yo, ssk, k, p, k, k2tog, yo, k2, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 26: *k4, p, k, p, k4, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 27: *k3, yo, ssk, p, k2tog, yo, k3, p, repeat from * to end
Rnd 28: *k5, p, repeat from * to end

DIRECTIONS
BODY
Front and back sections
(make two the same):

CO 86[98, 110, 122, 134, 146, 158] sts.

The first and last stitches will be worked as selvedge (knit on RS, purl on WS) until underarm. All other stitches will be worked in pattern.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, pm, work across row 1 of Jirachi Chart A, repeating highlighted section 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] times, pm, k1.

Row 2 [WS]: P1, sm, work across row 2 of Jirachi Chart A, sm, p1.

Continue in this manner, repeating rows 1-28 of Jirachi Chart A, until piece measures 6 inches from CO edge, ending on a RS row.

Next row [WS]: P2tog, remove marker, work in pattern as set to one stitch before marker, remove marker, p2tog. 84[96, 108, 120, 132, 144, 156] sts.

Set this aside and work from beginning to make second, identical panel using second circular needle or spare cable.

Make a note of the last row worked so you remember where to resume when working in the round (next section).

Join sections to work in the round.

Rnd 1: With RS facing, work next rnd of Jirachi Chart B (i.e. the next numeric rnd after the row of Jirachi Chart A with which you finished) across all sts of second section, pm, then work across first panel, pm. 168[192, 216, 240, 264, 288, 312] sts.

Continue working rows 1-28 of Jirachi Chart B until body measures 22 inches from CO edge or to desired length of garment to armhole, ending with an even numbered round.

Make a note of the last row worked so you remember where to start in next section, and where to start when you work the back section later on.

FRONT
Row 1 [RS]: Using working yarn and cable cast-on, CO 14 sts at beg of row, then work these sts as follows: k2, pm, k12, work in pattern as established using Jirachi Chart A and beginning with the next row from where you left off, above, to end of row, turn work. 98[110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170] sts. 14 sts increased.

Row 2 [WS]: Using working yarn and cable cast-on, CO 14 sts at beg of row, then work these sts as follows: p2, pm, p12, work next row of Jirachi Chart A as established to next marker, sm, p2. 112[124, 136, 148, 160, 172, 184] sts. 14 sts increased.

You will now be working two additional chart reps using these new cast-on stitches, and you will work the first and last 2 stitches of each row in stockinette stitch.

Continue working from Jirachi Chart A until length from armhole cast-on is 5.5[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5] inches, ending with a WS row and removing markers on the last row.

Rep last 2 rows until ribbing measures 1 inch, ending with a WS row.

Neck bind off row [RS]: Work 22[26, 32, 36, 42, 46, 52] sts in rib as set, bind off (in rib) the next/center 66[70, 70, 74, 74, 78, 78] sts, work 22[26, 32, 36, 42, 46, 52 sts in rib to end. Leave shoulder sts on space circular needle or cable.
You can make the neck opening narrower by working more stitches on the shoulders, and binding off fewer in the center. Just remember to work the same number of stitches for each side.

Shoulder seams:
Return the live stitches from the front and back of one shoulder to the needles. Turn sweater inside out and, with right sides facing each other, work three needle bind-off across these stitches. Repeat for other shoulder.

Armhole seaming and ribbing:
Using yarn needle and same color yarn, seam underarm tabs together along cast-on edges.

Using circular needle or dpns, with RS facing pick up and knit 92[96, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116] sts around armhole. Pm at beg of rnd.
Note: I picked up approx 3 stitches for every 4 rows; just ensure your final count is a multiple of 4.

Rnd 1: *K2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 1 until ribbing measures 0.5 inches.
BO all sts in rib.

Rep for second armhole.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Block to measurements.

Karen knits on the "choo choo" while commuting between NYC and her home in NJ where she lives with her husband, son, daughter, and their very talkative dog.

She has several self-published patterns on Ravelry, but this is her first professional submission. You can find Karen on Ravelry and on her website.