by Stephanie McIntosh

This sock pattern brings together some of my favorite things: single-stitch cables for texture, slip-stitches for highlighting tonal variation in yarn, and asymmetry for interest. The leg starts out with a simple all-over stitch pattern, but everything changes on the gusset and foot as mock cables multiply to swoop over the arch. The unique anatomical toe continues the stitch pattern right up to the final round.

The pattern is named after the phenomenon which makes it possible to travel at high speed with little effort, by tucking in behind another fast moving object (such as a cyclist or migratory bird) that is doing all the work. The slip-stitch cables nestle behind each other like a group of cyclists in a race, while the diagonals on the foot are like the leading group accelerating ahead.

Knitted in gorgeous squishy Malabrigo, this pattern really flows.

SIZE
Adult Small[Medium, Large]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Ankle Circumference: 7[8, 9] inches
Leg Length: 10 inches, adjustable to fit
Foot Length: Adjustable to fit.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Malabrigo Sock [100% superwash merino wool; 440 yd/403m per 100g skein]; color: Abril; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US 1.5/2.5mm needles for working in the round

Notions
yarn needle
stitch markers

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

M1: Insert left needle, from front to back, under the horizontal strand which lies between the stitch just knit, and the following stitch; then knit into the back of this loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1p: Insert left needle, from front to back, under the horizontal strand which lies between the stitch just knit, and the following stitch; then purl into the back of this loop. 1 stitch increased.

SSSK: Slip next 3 sts, one by one, as if to knit; insert the tip of the left needle, from left to right, into these three sts, and knit them tog.

Mock Cable
On RS: Lift 3rd stitch from left needle over the 2 previous, and let drop; k1, yo, k1.
On WS: Slip next 3 sts purlwise; lift 1st over the other 2; slip them back to left needle; p1, yo, p1. stitch from left needle over the 2 previous, and let drop; k1, yo, k1.

RT (right twist):
On RS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the back of the work. Knit next stitch, then knit the held stitch from the cable needle.
On WS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the back of the work (the RS). Purl next stitch, then purl the held stitch from the cable needle.

LT (left twist):
On RS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the front of the work. Knit next stitch, then knit the held stitch from the cable needle.
On WS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the front of the work (the WS). Purl next stitch, then purl the held stitch from the cable needle.

RPT (right purl twist):
On RS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the back of the work. Knit next stitch, then purl the held stitch from the cable needle.
On WS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the back of the work (the RS). Knit next stitch, then purl the held stitch from the cable needle.

LPT (left purl twist):
On RS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the front of the work. Purl next stitch, then knit the held stitch from the cable needle.
On WS: Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and hold it at the front of the work (the WS). Purl next stitch, then knit the held stitch from the cable needle.

Cabling Without a Cable Needle:
This pattern is a great opportunity to practice cabling without a cable needle. My preferred method is as follows:

For RT, on the RS: Insert the tip of the right needle into two stitches as if to k2tog, and slip them from the left to the right needle. The order of the stitches will be reversed on the right needle. Then with the tip of the left needle, move the stitches one at a time back to the left needle, inserting the needle in the front of the stitch from right to left. The stitches will now be crossed on the left needle, with the second stitch in front of the first, ready to work as required in the pattern.

For LT, on the WS: Slip the first two stitches separately from the left needle to the right, as if to knit. Then insert the tip of the left needle into both stitches together, through the front of the stitches from right to left. The stitches will now be crossed on the left needle, with the second stitch behind the first, ready to work as required in the pattern.

DIRECTIONS

Ribbing round: [K1, p1, k1] around.
Work 12 rounds as set.

Leg
Note: Ensure you work Left or Right Sock charts as appropriate throughout.

Transition round: Work Chart A around.
Work as set until Chart A is complete.

Leg round: Work Chart B around.
Work as set until Chart B is complete.

Work Chart B completely twice, then rounds 1-13 again.

Right Sock only:
Work round 14 of Chart B, increasing 3 stitches as follows:
Small Only:
Work first 3 sts as per chart, m1, work next 3 sts as per chart, m1p, work next 27 sts as per chart, m1p, finish round as written. 63 stitches total.
Medium Only:
Work first 3 sts as per chart, m1, work next 3 sts as per chart, m1p, work next 30 sts as per chart, m1, finish round as written. 69 stitches total.
Large Only:
Work first 3 sts as per chart, m1, work next 3 sts as per chart, m1p, work next 33 sts as per chart, m1p, finish round as written. 75 stitches total.
All Sizes:
After completing round 14, remove the stitch marker and k4. The heel flap will start here.

Left Sock only:
Work round 14 of Chart B, increasing 3 stitches as follows:
Small Only:
Work first 3 sts as per chart, m1, work next 30 sts as per chart, m1, finish round as per chart, m1p. (63 stitches total).
Medium Only:
Work first 3 sts as per chart, m1, work next 33 sts as per chart, m1, finish round as per chart, m1p. (69 stitches total).
Large Only:
Work stitches 1-3 of chart as written, m1, work next 36 sts as per chart, m1, finish round as per chart, m1p. (75 stitches total).
All Sizes:
After completing round 14, remove the stitch marker and k3. The heel flap will start here.

Heel Flap
63[69, 75] sts total.

Right Sock Only:
Turn work so that WS is facing. Heel is worked over 32[35, 38] sts.

Next row [WS]: Work Chart C across, turn.
Work as set until Chart C is complete, and work rows 1-14 again.

Final heel flap row [WS]: Sl1, p to end.

Left Sock Only:
Start heel flap on RS. Heel is worked over 32[35, 38] sts.

Next row [RS]: Work Chart C across, turn.
Work as set until Chart C is complete, and work rows 1-13 again.

Final heel flap row [WS]: Sl1, p to end.

Heel Turn
Small Only
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k4, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 13 [RS]: Sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn. 17 sts.
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1, k16.

Medium Only
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k17, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p2, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k3, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k7, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 13 [RS]: Sl1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: Sl1, p16, p2tog, p1, turn. 19 sts.
Row 17 [RS]: Sl1, k18.

Large Only
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k18, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p2, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k3, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k7, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 13 [RS]: Sl1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: Sl1, p16, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 17 [RS]: Sl1, k17, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 18 [WS]: Sl1, p18, p2tog, p1, turn. 21 sts.
Row 19 [RS]: Sl1, k20.

Gusset, Right Sock Only
Round 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit 18 stitches along side of the heel flap; work Row 1 of Chart D across 31[34, 37] instep stitches; pick up and knit 18 stitches along the side of the heel flap. 84[89, 94] sts. To setup for gusset, k24[26, 28] (this places you 11 sts from original start of instep) and place marker for start of round and start of instep. Arrange stitches on needles as preferred.

Gusset round 2: Work Chart D across instep sts; ssk, k to end of round.
Gusset round 3: Work Chart D as set over instep, k to end of round.
Repeat Gusset rounds 2-3 until Chart D Round 22 is complete. 62[67, 72] stitches remain.

Small Only
Round 23: Work chart D as set over instep, k to end of round.
Round 24: Work chart D as set over instep, ssk, k to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 23-24. 60 stitches remain.

All Sizes
You should be at start of instep. 31[34, 37] sts on instep; 29[33, 35] sts for sole.
Proceed to Foot.

Gusset round 2: K to 2 sts before instep, k2tog; Work Chart D across instep sts; k to end of round.

Gusset round 3: K to instep; work Chart D as set over instep; k to end of round.

Repeat Gusset rounds 2-3 until Chart D Round 22 is complete. 62[67, 72] stitches remain.

Small Only
Round 23: K to instep, work next row of Chart D as set, k to end of round.
Round 24: K to 2 stitches before instep, k2tog, work next row of Chart D as set, k to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 23-24. 60 stitches remain.

All Sizes
K to start of instep. 31[34, 37] sts on instep; 29[33, 35] sts for sole.
Proceed to Foot.

Toe
Small Only:
Rounds 1-2: Work Chart E across instep, k to end of round.
Round 3: Work Chart E across instep, k1, ssk, k to last 3 stitches of round, k2tog, k1.
Round 4: Work Chart E across instep, k to end of round.
Rounds 5-16: Repeat Rounds 3-4 6 more times. 30 sts rem.
Round 17: Repeat Round 3. 26 sts rem.
Break yarn leaving a tail approximately 6 inches long. Graft stitches using Kitchener stitch.

Medium Only:
Round 1: Work Chart E across instep; k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Round 2: Work Chart E across instep, k to end of round.
Rounds 3-7: Repeat Rounds 1-2 3 more times.

Right Sock Only:
Round 8: Work Chart E across instep, k to 1 st before end of round, k2tog. (This takes 1 st from instep; the decrease rems as part of the sole stitches. 50 sts rem.
Round 9: Work Chart E across instep; k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Left Sock Only:
Round 8: Repeat Round 1.
Round 9: Work Chart E across instep. For stitch 24, ssk final instep stitch together with first sole stitch -- the resulting stitch is a sole stitch in subsequent rounds. Ssk, k to last 3 stitches of round, k2tog, k1.
Both Socks:
Round 10: Repeat Round 2.
Round 11-18: Repeat Rounds 1-2 four more times. 30 sts rem.
Round 19: Repeat Round 1. 26 sts rem.
Break yarn leaving a tail approximately 6 inches long. Graft stitches using Kitchener stitch.

Large Only:
Rounds 1-2: Work Chart E across instep, k to end of round.
Round 3: Work Chart E across instep, k1, ssk, k to 3 stitches of round, k2tog, k1.
Round 4: Work Chart E across instep, k to end of round.
Rounds 5-22: Repeat Rounds 3-4. 30 sts rem.
Round 23: Repeat Round 3. 26 sts rem.

Break yarn leaving a tail approximately 6 inches long. Graft stitches using Kitchener stitch.

FINISHING
Block and weave in ends.

Stephanie McIntosh is a knitting and grammar geek who lives in West Yorkshire, with her videographer husband and a lot of yarn. In her day job she teaches English Language to overseas students, and she blogs, mostly about teaching, here.

Her long-neglected knitting blog moulders elegantly here and you'll find her on Ravelry, too.