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by
Suzi Anvin
I LOVE striping yarn. I
simply can't resist buying it. Then I
take it home, grab a pattern and... whoops,
can't see the pattern for the stripes. This
pattern is part of my ongoing quest to find
stitch patterns that work well with colorful
striping yarns. The muscari lace increases
and decreases in stitch count, causing the
flowers to pop out with excellent stitch definition,
so you can see them even with a high-contrast
yarn. The lace in the ribs gives it that
extra bit of stretch, allowing it to fit exactly
like a k5p2 rib, even when the stitch count
is lower. I have tested the stitch motif
in hand-painted, traditional self-striping,
and in the ombre Trekking shown here, all with
excellent results. This pattern handles
color with ease and pizazz!
This sock is knit from
the cuff down, with a short-row heel on 60%
of stitches and standard grafted toe. This
heel and toe were chosen mostly because they
fit my foot well. The
pattern would work just as well with a traditional
flap heel or another shape of toe. |
photos: Suzi Anvin |
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S[M, L] (shown
in size M) |
Sock circumference:
7.5[8.25, 9] inches around ball of foot
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Zitron
Trekking XXL [75% Superwash Wool, 25% Nylon;
459yd/420m per 100g skein]; Color 109; 1 skein
Recommended needle size:
1
set of five US #0/2mm double-point needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below
-- every knitter's gauge is unique]
Tapestry needle |
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40 sts/54 rows
= 4 inches in stockinette st
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[Knitty's
list of standard abbreviations and techniques
can be found here] |
The
short-row heel in this pattern is
used by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts in her book "Simple
Socks Plain and Fancy". A tutorial may
be found here.
Working with
Two Circular Needles or Magic Loop Technique
This pattern is written for double-point needles. It can easily be adapted
for working with two circular needles or the Magic Loop technique. To do
this, the first circular needle or cable section will take the place of
Needles 1 and 2, and the second circular needle or cable section will take
the place of Needles 3 and 4. After casting on, place 35[42, 42] sts on
the first needle/cable section, and 42[42, 49] sts on the second needle/cable
section.
Working Yarnovers
When working a yo before a p st, bring the
yarn between the needles to the back of the
work, then over the right needle to the front,
then work the p st. This will result in a
yo which is oriented differently from the
other sts, and if worked normally on a subsequent
row, it will result in a twisted st. To avoid
this, when it is time to work into the yo,
reverse its orientation by slipping it to
the right needle, inserting the left needle
into the front of it, then removing it from
the right needle. It should now be sitting
on the left needle with its leading “leg” (the
side of the st closest to the tip of the
needle) at the front of the needle.
All slipped sts are slipped purlwise unless
otherwise indicated.
SK2P: Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2
sts decreased.
Ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time,
to right needle. Slip these 2 sts, purlwise,
back to left needle. Purl them together through
their back loops.
Sssp: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time,
to right needle. Slip these 3 sts, purlwise,
back to left needle. Purl them together through
their back loops.
Muscari Lace Pattern
(Worked
in the round over a multiple of 7 sts):
Note: The number of sts in each repeat will
change as the pattern is worked. These changes
are noted within the pattern.
Set-up Round: [P1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog,
p1] to end.
Round 1: [P1, k5, p1] to end.
Round 2: [P1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1] to end.
9 sts in each repeat.
Round 3: [P1, k7, p1] to end.
Round 4: [P1, ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog,
p1] to end.
Round 5: [P1, k7, p1] to end.
Round 6: [P1, ssk, k3, k2tog, p1] to end. 7
sts in each repeat.
Round 7: [P1, k5, p1] to end.
Round 8: [P1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1] to end. 5
sts in each repeat.
Round 9: [P1, k3, p1] to end.
Round 10: [P1, yo, SK2P, yo, p1] to end.
Round 11: [P1, k3, p1] to end.
Round 12: [P1, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p1] to end.
7 sts in each repeat.
Repeat Rounds 1-12 for Lace Pattern.
Adapted from "Veined Leaf Panel",
Barbara Walker's 2nd Treasury, p 303 |
CO 77[84, 91] sts. Divide sts as follows:
Needle 1: 14[21, 21] sts
Needle 2: 21 sts
Needle 3: 21[21, 28] sts
Needle 4: 21 sts
Join to begin working in the round, being
careful not to twist.
CUFF
Rounds 1-5: [P1, k2] twice, [p2, k2,
p1, k2] to last st, p1.
Rounds 6-10: P1, k5, [p2, k5] to last st,
p1.
LEG
Work Set-up Round of Muscari Lace Pattern,
then work Rounds 1-12 of pattern until work
measures approx. 6 inches or desired length
to top of heel, ending with Round 12 of pattern.
HEEL
Slip last 3[5, 4] sts from the end of
Needle 2 to the beginning of Needle 3. Work
first 3[5, 4] sts from Needle 1 onto Needle
4 as follows: P1, k1[3, 2], sl 1.
Needle 1 now holds 11[16, 17] sts, Needle
2 holds 18[16, 17] sts, Needle 3 holds 24[26,
32] sts, and Needle 4 holds 24[26, 25] sts.
The 29[32, 34] sts on Needles 1 and 2 will
be held for the instep.
The heel will be worked back and forth over
the 48[52, 57] sts on Needles 3 and 4. The
heel is worked using short rows, with a yo
worked at the beginning of each short row.
First Section:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, yo, p1[3, 2], k2, p40[40,
47], k2, p1[3, 2]. Turn work, leaving last
st unworked. This row sets pattern for
heel.
Row 2 [RS]: Yo, work 45[49, 54] sts in pattern.
3 sts remain on left needle, including yo.
Turn work.
Row 3 [WS]: Yo, work 44[48, 53] sts in pattern.
Turn work.
Row 4: Yo, work in pattern until 1 st remains
before last yo worked. Turn work.
Repeat Row 4 25[29, 33] times more. Each
short row will be 1 st shorter than the previous
short row. Last short row worked in this
section will be a WS row: yo, p18[18, 19].
Turn work.
Second Section:
Row 1 [RS]: Yo, k18[18, 19]; next st on left needle should be a yo. K2tog;
yo has been worked together with following st. Turn work.
Row 2 [WS]: Yo, p19[19, 20], ssp. Yo has been worked together with following
st. Turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Yo, k20[20, 21], k3tog. 2 yos have been worked together with
following st. Turn work.
Row 4 [WS]: Yo, p21[21, 22], sssp. 2 yos have been worked together with
following st. Turn work.
Row 5 [RS]: Yo, work in pattern to next pair of yos, work 2 yos
together with following st (k3tog or sssp). Turn work.
Repeat Row 5 23[27, 31] times more. Each short row will be 1 st longer
than the previous short row. When you reach the p2 rib at each edge, work
p3tog at end of RS rows and sssk at end of WS rows to maintain pattern
(instead of k3tog and sssp). Last short row worked in this section will
be a WS row: yo, p45[49, 54], sssp. 2 sts (yo and edge st) remain
on left needle. Turn work.
Next Row [RS]: Yo, k46[50, 55], k3tog (2
yos worked together with edge st). Do not
turn work.
FOOT
Set-up
Round: Work all sts on Needles 1 and 2 in
pattern as set (Round 1 of Lace Pattern);
sssk (first st of Needle 3 worked together
with remaining 2 yos), k to end of Needle
3; k to last 5[5, 6] sts on Needle 4, slip
last 5[5, 6] sts to beginning of Needle 1.
Slip first 5[5, 6] sts from beginning of
Needle 3 to end of Needle 2.
Needle 1 now holds 16[21, 23] sts, Needle
2 holds 23[21, 23] sts, Needle 3 holds 19[21,
26] sts, and Needle 4 holds 19[21, 19] sts.
Sizes S, L Only:
Next Round: K1, p1, work Lace Pattern as
set to last 2 sts of Needle 2, p1, k1;
k all sts on Needles 3 and 4. This round
sets pattern for foot.
Size M Only:
Next Round: Work Lace Pattern as set to end
of Needle 2; p1, k to last st on Needle
4, p1. This round sets pattern for foot.
All Sizes:
Continue in pattern as set until foot measures
between 1.5 and 2.25 inches less than desired
length to end of toe, ending with Round 12
of pattern. Work Round 1 of pattern, repeating
this round until work measures 1.5 inches
less than desired length to end of toe.
TOE
Sizes
S, L Only:
Set-up Round: K1, [p2, k2, p1, k2] to last
3 sts on Needle 2, p2tog, k1; k to last
st on Needle 4, sl last st to beginning
of Needle 1. This round sets pattern for
toe (do not work p2tog on subsequent rounds).
76[-, 90] sts.
Size M Only:
Set-up Round: [P1, k2] twice, [p2, k2, p1,
k2] to last st on Needle 2, p1; p1, k to
last st on Needle 4, sl last st to beginning
of Needle 1. This round sets pattern for
toe.
All Sizes:
Decrease Round: SK2P, work in pattern to
last st on Needle 2, slip this st to beginning
of Needle 3; SK2P, k to end of Needle 4.
Next Round: Work in pattern to last st on
Needle 4, sl last st to beginning of Needle
1.
Repeat these 2 rounds 9 times more, then
work Decrease Round once more. 32[40, 46]
sts.
Slip sts from Needle 2 to Needle 1, and
from Needle 3 to Needle 4.
Graft sts on Needle
1 to sts on Needle 4.
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Weave
in ends.
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Suzi
Anvin is a child
psychologist who has been knitting for
about 6 years, and designing her own patterns
more or less since she learned how to knit
and purl. Her
patterns can be found here. Her
lace skirt pattern is soon to be published
in an upcoming Stitch 'N Bitch book. Other
hobbies include spinning, weaving and costuming.
She
lives in the Bay Area, CA with her husband
Peter, her spoiled pet bunny Scamper, and new
pet snake (a python named Perl).
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Pattern
& images © 2008 Suzi Anvin. Contact Suzi
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