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Yarn4Socks

I LOVE striping yarn.  I simply can't resist buying it.  Then I take it home, grab a pattern and...  whoops, can't see the pattern for the stripes.  This pattern is part of my ongoing quest to find stitch patterns that work well with colorful striping yarns.  The muscari lace increases and decreases in stitch count, causing the flowers to pop out with excellent stitch definition, so you can see them even with a high-contrast yarn.  The lace in the ribs gives it that extra bit of stretch, allowing it to fit exactly like a k5p2 rib, even when the stitch count is lower.  I have tested the stitch motif in hand-painted, traditional self-striping, and in the ombre Trekking shown here, all with excellent results.  This pattern handles color with ease and pizazz!

This sock is knit from the cuff down, with a short-row heel on 60% of stitches and standard grafted toe.  This heel and toe were chosen mostly because they fit my foot well.  The pattern would work just as well with a traditional flap heel or another shape of toe. 

photos: Suzi Anvin

SIZE
S[M, L] (shown in size M)
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Sock circumference: 7.5[8.25, 9] inches around ball of foot

 
MATERIALS
Zitron Trekking XXL [75% Superwash Wool, 25% Nylon; 459yd/420m per 100g skein]; Color 109; 1 skein

Recommended needle size:
1 set of five US #0/2mm double-point needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Tapestry needle

GAUGE

40 sts/54 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

 
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

The short-row heel in this pattern is used by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts in her book "Simple Socks Plain and Fancy". A tutorial may be found here.

Working with Two Circular Needles or Magic Loop Technique
This pattern is written for double-point needles. It can easily be adapted for working with two circular needles or the Magic Loop technique. To do this, the first circular needle or cable section will take the place of Needles 1 and 2, and the second circular needle or cable section will take the place of Needles 3 and 4. After casting on, place 35[42, 42] sts on the first needle/cable section, and 42[42, 49] sts on the second needle/cable section.

Working Yarnovers
When working a yo before a p st, bring the yarn between the needles to the back of the work, then over the right needle to the front, then work the p st. This will result in a yo which is oriented differently from the other sts, and if worked normally on a subsequent row, it will result in a twisted st. To avoid this, when it is time to work into the yo, reverse its orientation by slipping it to the right needle, inserting the left needle into the front of it, then removing it from the right needle. It should now be sitting on the left needle with its leading “leg” (the side of the st closest to the tip of the needle) at the front of the needle.

All slipped sts are slipped purlwise unless otherwise indicated.

SK2P: Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased.

Ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip these 2 sts, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

Sssp: Slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip these 3 sts, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

Muscari Lace Pattern
(Worked in the round over a multiple of 7 sts):
Note: The number of sts in each repeat will change as the pattern is worked. These changes are noted within the pattern.

Set-up Round: [P1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, p1] to end.
Round 1: [P1, k5, p1] to end.
Round 2: [P1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1] to end. 9 sts in each repeat.
Round 3: [P1, k7, p1] to end.
Round 4: [P1, ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, p1] to end.
Round 5: [P1, k7, p1] to end.
Round 6: [P1, ssk, k3, k2tog, p1] to end. 7 sts in each repeat.
Round 7: [P1, k5, p1] to end.
Round 8: [P1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p1] to end. 5 sts in each repeat.
Round 9: [P1, k3, p1] to end.
Round 10: [P1, yo, SK2P, yo, p1] to end.
Round 11: [P1, k3, p1] to end.
Round 12: [P1, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p1] to end. 7 sts in each repeat.
Repeat Rounds 1-12 for Lace Pattern.
Adapted from "Veined Leaf Panel", Barbara Walker's 2nd  Treasury, p 303

DIRECTIONS

CO 77[84, 91] sts. Divide sts as follows:
Needle 1: 14[21, 21] sts
Needle 2: 21 sts
Needle 3: 21[21, 28] sts
Needle 4: 21 sts

Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

CUFF
Rounds 1-5: [P1, k2] twice, [p2, k2, p1, k2] to last st, p1.
Rounds 6-10: P1, k5, [p2, k5] to last st, p1.

LEG
Work Set-up Round of Muscari Lace Pattern, then work Rounds 1-12 of pattern until work measures approx. 6 inches or desired length to top of heel, ending with Round 12 of pattern.

HEEL
Slip last 3[5, 4] sts from the end of Needle 2 to the beginning of Needle 3. Work first 3[5, 4] sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 4 as follows: P1, k1[3, 2], sl 1.
Needle 1 now holds 11[16, 17] sts, Needle 2 holds 18[16, 17] sts, Needle 3 holds 24[26, 32] sts, and Needle 4 holds 24[26, 25] sts. The 29[32, 34] sts on Needles 1 and 2 will be held for the instep.

The heel will be worked back and forth over the 48[52, 57] sts on Needles 3 and 4. The heel is worked using short rows, with a yo worked at the beginning of each short row.

First Section:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, yo, p1[3, 2], k2, p40[40, 47], k2, p1[3, 2]. Turn work, leaving last st unworked. This row sets pattern for heel.
Row 2 [RS]: Yo, work 45[49, 54] sts in pattern. 3 sts remain on left needle, including yo. Turn work.
Row 3 [WS]: Yo, work 44[48, 53] sts in pattern. Turn work.
Row 4: Yo, work in pattern until 1 st remains before last yo worked. Turn work.
Repeat Row 4 25[29, 33] times more. Each short row will be 1 st shorter than the previous short row. Last short row worked in this section will be a WS row: yo, p18[18, 19]. Turn work.

Second Section:
Row 1 [RS]: Yo, k18[18, 19]; next st on left needle should be a yo. K2tog; yo has been worked together with following st. Turn work.
Row 2 [WS]: Yo, p19[19, 20], ssp. Yo has been worked together with following st. Turn work.
Row 3 [RS]: Yo, k20[20, 21], k3tog. 2 yos have been worked together with following st. Turn work.
Row 4 [WS]: Yo, p21[21, 22], sssp. 2 yos have been worked together with following st. Turn work.
Row 5 [RS]: Yo, work in pattern to next pair of yos, work 2 yos together with following st (k3tog or sssp). Turn work.
Repeat Row 5 23[27, 31] times more. Each short row will be 1 st longer than the previous short row. When you reach the p2 rib at each edge, work p3tog at end of RS rows and sssk at end of WS rows to maintain pattern (instead of k3tog and sssp). Last short row worked in this section will be a WS row: yo, p45[49, 54], sssp.  2 sts (yo and edge st) remain on left needle. Turn work.

Next Row [RS]: Yo, k46[50, 55], k3tog (2 yos worked together with edge st). Do not turn work.

FOOT
Set-up Round: Work all sts on Needles 1 and 2 in pattern as set (Round 1 of Lace Pattern); sssk (first st of Needle 3 worked together with remaining 2 yos), k to end of Needle 3; k to last 5[5, 6] sts on Needle 4, slip last 5[5, 6] sts to beginning of Needle 1. Slip first 5[5, 6] sts from beginning of Needle 3 to end of Needle 2.
Needle 1 now holds 16[21, 23] sts, Needle 2 holds 23[21, 23] sts, Needle 3 holds 19[21, 26] sts, and Needle 4 holds 19[21, 19] sts.

Sizes S, L Only:
Next Round: K1, p1, work Lace Pattern as set to last 2 sts of Needle 2, p1, k1; k all sts on Needles 3 and 4. This round sets pattern for foot.

Size M Only:
Next Round: Work Lace Pattern as set to end of Needle 2; p1, k to last st on Needle 4, p1. This round sets pattern for foot.

All Sizes:
Continue in pattern as set until foot measures between 1.5 and 2.25 inches less than desired length to end of toe, ending with Round 12 of pattern. Work Round 1 of pattern, repeating this round until work measures 1.5 inches less than desired length to end of toe.

TOE
Sizes S, L Only:
Set-up Round: K1, [p2, k2, p1, k2] to last 3 sts on Needle 2, p2tog, k1; k to last st on Needle 4, sl last st to beginning of Needle 1. This round sets pattern for toe (do not work p2tog on subsequent rounds). 76[-, 90] sts.

Size M Only:
Set-up Round: [P1, k2] twice, [p2, k2, p1, k2] to last st on Needle 2, p1; p1, k to last st on Needle 4, sl last st to beginning of Needle 1. This round sets pattern for toe.

All Sizes:
Decrease Round: SK2P, work in pattern to last st on Needle 2, slip this st to beginning of Needle 3; SK2P, k to end of Needle 4.
Next Round: Work in pattern to last st on Needle 4, sl last st to beginning of Needle 1.
Repeat these 2 rounds 9 times more, then work Decrease Round once more. 32[40, 46] sts.

Slip sts from Needle 2 to Needle 1, and from Needle 3 to Needle 4.
Graft sts on Needle 1 to sts on Needle 4.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Suzi Anvin is a child psychologist who has been knitting for about 6 years, and designing her own patterns more or less since she learned how to knit and purl.  Her patterns can be found here. Her lace skirt pattern is soon to be published in an upcoming Stitch 'N Bitch book.  Other hobbies include spinning, weaving and costuming. 

She lives in the Bay Area, CA with her husband Peter, her spoiled pet bunny Scamper, and new pet snake (a python named Perl).