Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Vintage Memories is a fitted pullover featuring high contrast stranded motifs around the yoke and a very feminine darted waist shaping. When designing this sweater, I was inspired by the fair isle motifs that my granny invented for us grandchildren. We were a big family with many girls, and she taught us to knit, and helped cut out fashion clothes for our dolls with colorful yarn, fabric and paper. I wanted to add to my “vintage memories” of her by creating a sweater with a soft, lightweight fabric combined with the warmest alpaca to be ready for any weather and age!

The body of the sweater is worked seamlessly, from the bottom up to the armholes. The sleeves are worked separately and then joined with the body. The yoke is worked in one piece to the neckband, combining raglan and balanced decreases for an extremely comfortable fit. The pullover is intended to be worn with zero or a small amount of negative ease: please choose a size close to your actual bust measurements.

spacer model: Ela Torrente
spacer photos: Fabio Brunetti
 

SIZE
XXS[XS, S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
shown in size XS with no ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Finished chest circumference: 28.5[32, 34, 36, 40.5, 44, 48.5, 51.5, 55.5] inches.
Length: 22[23.75, 24.25, 24.5, 25.75, 26, 27.5, 28.25, 29.25] inches from hem to neckline at center back.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

Rowan Felted Tweed DK [50% merino, 25% alpaca, 25% rayon; 191 yd/175 m per 50g skein];
spacer [MC] Treacle; 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] skeins.
spacer [CC1] Rage; 1 skein.
spacer [CC2] Gilt; 1 skein.
Note: you will need a very small amount of CC2 (15 -30 yds), so using leftovers would be fine.


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #4/3.5mm double-point needles
spacer 1 set US #6/4mm double-point needles
spacer 1 24-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle
spacer 1 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
spacer 1 24 to 32-inch US #6/4mm circular needle (or different size to obtain gauge)

Notions
spacer 4 stitch markers
spacer waste yarn or stitch holders
spacer one 1.5 inch button
spacer yarn needle

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GAUGE
20 sts/28 rnds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
21 sts/28 rnds = 4 inches in colorwork pattern on larger needles

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

BOR: beginning of round

M1L: Insert left needle, from front to back, under the horizontal strand which lies between the stitch just knit, and the following stitch; then knit into the back of this loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R: Insert left needle, from back to front, under the horizontal strand which lies between the stitch just knit, and the following stitch; then knit into the front of this loop. 1 stitch increased.

Slp3: Slip 3 stitches as if to purl.

Yoke Colorwork pattern:
Rnd 1: [K6 MC, k1 CC1, k5 MC, k1 CC1, k5 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 2: [K5 MC, k3 CC1, k3 MC, k3 CC1, k4 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 3: [K4 MC, k5 CC1, k1 MC, k5 CC1, k3 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 4: [K3 MC, k3 CC1, k2 CC2, k3 CC1, k2 CC2, k3 CC1, k2 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 5: [K4 MC, k2, CC1, k1 CC2, k1 CC1, k3 MC, k1 CC1, k1 CC2, k2 CC1, k3 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 6: [K3 MC, k4 CC1, k5 MC, k4 CC1, k2 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 7: [K2 MC, k2 CC1, k1 CC2, k1 CC1, k7 MC, k1 CC1, k1 CC2, k2 CC1, k1 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 8: [K1 MC, k2 CC1, k2 CC2, k1 CC1, k7 MC, k1 CC1, k2 CC2, k2 CC2]; rep to end.
Rnd 9: [K2 MC, k2 CC1, k1 CC2, k1 CC1, k7 MC, k1 CC1, k1 CC2, k2 CC1, k1 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 10: [K3 MC, k4 CC1, k5 MC, k4 CC1, k2 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 11: [(K1, k2tog, k1) MC, k2 CC1, k1 CC2, k1 CC1, k3 MC, k1 CC1, K1 CC2, k2 CC1, (k1, k2tog) MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 12: [K2 MC, k3 CC1, k2 CC2, k3 CC1, k2 CC2, k3 CC1, k1 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 13: [K3 MC, k5 CC1, k1 MC, k5 CC1, k2 MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 14: [(K1, k2tog, k1) MC, k3 CC1, k3 MC, k3 CC1, (k1, k2tog) MC]; rep to end.
Rnd 15: [K4 MC, k1 CC1, k5 MC, k1 CC1, k3 MC]; rep to end.

Read Yoke Chart from bottom up, and all rnds from right to left.

chart

DIRECTIONS
LOWER BODY
Using US #4/3.5mm circular needle and MC, CO 154[172, 182, 192, 214, 232, 254, 270, 290] sts. Join to work in the rnd being careful not to twist sts, and pm for beg of rnd (BOR). For the body, the BOR is in the center back.

Rnds 1-4: [K1, p1] to end.

Switch to US #6/4mm circular needle.
Knit 4 rnds.

Decrease for waist
Set-up rnd: K26[28, 30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48] sts, pm, knit to 26[28, 30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48] sts before end of rnd, pm, knit to end.

Dec rnd: Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before next m, k2tog, k1, sm, ssk, knit to end. 4 sts decreased.

Knit 5 rnds.

Rep Dec rnd every 6th rnd 7[10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] times more. 122[128, 138, 148, 170, 188, 210, 226, 246] sts.

Knit until piece measures approx 10[11, 11, 11.5, 12, 12, 13, 13.5, 13.5] inches from CO edge.

Increase for bust
Inc rnd: Knit to m, M1R, sm, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before next m, M1R, k1, sm, M1L, knit to end. 4 sts increased.

Knit 3 rnds.

Rep Inc rnd every 4th rnd 4[7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7] times more. 142[160, 170, 180, 202, 220, 242, 258, 278] sts.

Knit until piece measures approx 15[16, 16, 16.5, 17, 17, 18, 18.5, 18.5] inches from CO edge, or desired length to underarm. On the last rnd, remove all markers as you come to them, including the BOR m. Leave the yarn attached and set the body aside.

SLEEVES (MAKE TWO)
Using US #4/3.5mm DPNs and a new ball of MC, CO 38[40, 40, 40, 48, 48, 48, 50, 54] sts. Join to work in the rnd being careful not to twist sts, pm for BOR.

Rnds 1-8: [K1, p1] to end.

Switch to US #6/4mm circular needle.
Knit 10 rnds.

Sizes XXS, XS, S, M and L ONLY:
Inc rnd: K1, M1L, knit to last st before end of rnd, M1R, k1 – 2 sts increased.

Knit 10 rnds.

Rep Inc Rnd every 11th rnd 5[5, 6, 8, 8, -, -, -, -] times more. 50[52, 54, 58, 66, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X and 4X ONLY:
Inc Rnd:
[K1, M1L] twice, knit to 2 sts before end of rnd, [M1R, k1] twice – 4 sts increased.

Knit 8 rnds.

Rep Inc Rnd every 9th rnd -[-, -, -, -, 5, 7, 9, 10] times more. -[-, -, -, -, 72, 80, 90, 98] sts.

All Sizes
Knit until the sleeve measures approx 17.5[18, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19.5] inches from CO edge, or to desired length to underarm.

Next rnd: Knit to 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts before end of rnd, slip next 6[8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 12] sts to waste yarn for underarm and slip remaining sts to holders or spare needle. Break yarn.

YOKE
Return body sts to larger circular needle and resume work using attached yarn.

Set-up rnd: K32[36, 38, 40, 45, 50, 55, 59, 63] sts, pm. This is the new BOR.

Next rnd: Place next 6[8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 12] sts on waste yarn for underarm, knit first sleeve sts from holders, pm, k66[72, 78, 80, 92, 100, 112, 120, 128] sts (front), pm, place next 6[8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 12] sts on waste yarn for underarm, knit second sleeve sts from holders, pm , knit to end. 218[232, 246, 256, 294, 324, 362, 398, 426] sts.

Knit 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 0, 0, 0, 2] rnds.

Setup raglan decreases
Dec Rnd: [Knit to m, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before next m, k2tog, k1, sm] twice. 4 sts decreased.

Rep Dec Rnd every other rnd 1[0, 1, 1, 0, 3, 2, 2, 0] time(s) more. 210[228, 238, 248, 290, 308, 350, 386, 422] total sts; 44[44, 46, 48, 56, 62, 70, 80, 86] sts for each sleeve; 62[70, 74, 76, 90, 92, 106, 114, 126] front sts; 60[70, 72, 76, 88, 92, 104, 112, 124] back sts.

Raglan shaping
Dec Rnd: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before next m, k2tog, k1, sm] 4 times. 8 sts decreased.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rep Dec Rnd every other rnd 5[5, 4, 3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9] times more. 162[180, 198, 216, 234, 252, 270, 306, 342] total sts; 32[32, 36, 40, 42, 48, 50, 60, 66] sts each sleeve; 50[58, 64, 68, 76, 78, 86, 94, 106] front sts; 48[58, 62, 68, 74, 78, 84, 92, 104] back sts.

Next rnd: Remove BOR, [knit to m, remove m] 3 times, k24[29, 31, 34, 37, 39, 42, 46, 52] sts, pm (BOR). This is the new BOR (again at the center back).

Begin yoke colorwork
Rnds 1-15: Work Yoke Chart or Yoke Written Pattern to the end of the rnd, adding in CC1 and CC2 as needed.

Switch to US #5/3.75mm circular needle. Break CC1 and CC2.
Knit 1 rnd with MC. 126[140, 154, 168, 182, 196, 210, 238, 266] sts.

Next Rnd: [K1, k2tog, k9, ssk] to end. 108[120, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180, 204, 228] sts.

Knit 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2] rnd(s).

Size XXS ONLY:
Next rnd: [K1, k2tog, k9] to end. 99[-, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Knit 1 rnd.

Sizes XS, S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X and 4X ONLY:
Next rnd: [K1, k2tog, k7, ssk] to end. -[100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 170, 190] sts.

K 2 rnds.

Sizes S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X and 4X ONLY:
Next rnd:
[K1, k2tog, k7] to end. -[-, 99, 108, 117, 126, 135, 153, 171] sts.

Knit 2 rnds.

Sizes 3X and 4X ONLY:
Next Rnd:
[K1, k2tog, k6] to end. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 136, 152] sts.

ALL SIZES:
Knit 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 0, 0, 0, 3] round(s).

Next rnd: Knit to 3 sts before end of rnd, slip the next 3 sts to a dpn and hold in back, remove BOR, k3 from left needle, pm (BOR), k3 from dpn.

Knit 1 rnd. At the end of the rnd, turn work, removing BOR m, and beg to work the short row section back and forth.

Left back short row section
Short row 1 [WS]: Slp3, p38[38, 38, 42, 47, 51, 56, 56, 64] sts, w&t.

Short row 2 and 4 [RS]: Knit to end.

Short row 3 [WS]: Slp3, purl to 5 sts before last wrap, w&t.

Work these last 2 rows 1[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5] time(s) more.

Next row [WS]: Slp3, purl to last 3 sts, picking up and purling all wrapped sts together with their wraps, slp3.

Right back short row section
Short row 1 [RS]: K41[41, 41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 59, 67] sts, w&t.

Short row 2 and 4 [WS]: Purl to last 3 sts before end, slp3.

Short row 3 [RS]: Knit to 5 sts before last wrap, w&t.

Work these last 2 rows 1[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5] time(s) more.

Next row [RS]: Knit across, picking up and knitting all wrapped sts together with their wraps.

Sizes XXS, S, L and 2X ONLY:
Buttonhole row [WS]: Slp3, yo, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, slp3.

Sizes XS, M, 1X, 3X and 4X ONLY:
Buttonhole row [WS]: Slp3, yo, p3tog, purl to last 3 sts, slp3. 1 st decreased.

99[99, 99, 107, 117, 125, 135, 135, 151] sts.

NECKBAND
Switch to US #4/3.5mm circular needle.

Row 1 and 3 [RS]: K3, [p1, k1] to last 4 sts, p1, k3.
Row 2 and 4 [WS]: Slp3, [k1, p1] to last 4 sts, k1, slp3.

BO in rib pattern.

spacerschematic

FINISHING
Attach button to neckband. Graft the previously held underarm sts together. Soak and block the sweater to measurements. Weave in ends.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Ela lives and works with her family in northern Italy. She is a mom, an independent knitwear designer, a yarn maniac and an amateur chef.

She has published her knitwear designs on Ravelry since 2010. You can see her designs on her Ravelry page, meet her in the Modish People Group and follow her on the modishknits.com website.

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