Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Black Trillium
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Nothing is as graceful as lace. This toe-up lace sock covers the whole foot with
grace since the lace pattern starts from the tip of the toe.

Twisted-stitch tendrils lick flame-like at the edges of the foot, then blossom into vines that extend up the sides. This sock features a rounded toe and gusset/heel flap construction, my favorite construction for a really well-fitting sock.

The inspiration for this genteel sock came from the yarn, Plucky Knitter Primo, a merino/cashmere/nylon blend with a high percentage of cashmere, in the soft and subtle Naragansett Gray colorway.

This lucky skein plopped into my hands during Sock Summit 2011 and tortured my thoughts and dreams until this sock emerged. We should all be so lucky as to endure torture at the hands of beautiful sock yarn! I call this an act of Grace, don’t you?

 


spacer photos: Vivian Aubrey


 

SIZE
Women’s S [L]
stretches up to 8.5[9.5] inches foot circumference

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot and Leg Circumference: unstretched measurements: 7[8] inches
Foot Length: adjustable to fit
Leg Length: Sample as photographed has leg 7 inches long; adjustable to fit.

spacer

MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Plucky Knitter Primo [75% superwash merino, 20% cashmere, 5% nylon, 385 yds/100 g skein] in Naragansett Gray, 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #1/2.25mm needles for working in the round

Notions
spacer yarn needle

spacer

GAUGE

36 sts/50 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
31.5 sts/44 rounds = 4 inches in chart stitch, measured after blocking

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Stitch patterns are very stretchy widthwise! Please keep this in mind when choosing the size for your sock.

As for all toe-up socks, the length of the area between the toe increases and the gusset increases is the key to getting a good fit. The measurements in the pattern work if your round gauge is very close to the gauge specified above. Please adjust your measurements if your round gauge is different, as follows: If you’re getting fewer rounds per inch, subtract .25 of an inch from the given measurement. If you are getting more rounds per inch, add .25 of an inch to the given measurement.

LT: With right needle in back of work, skip first st on left needle and knit the second st in the back loop, then knit the first st in the front loop. Slip both sts together from the left needle.

RT: K2tog but leave these sts on left needle, then knit first st again. Slip both sts together from the left needle.

M1 (make 1): Insert tip of left needle from front to back under strand of yarn between needles, and knit into the back of this loop.

Make Knot: In next st, knit in the front, back and front – 3 sts. Pass first and second sts over third st – 1 st remains.

spacerCharts
The charts for this pattern are very large. Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting page.

Toe SmallSole Toe SmallInstep/Back SmallHeel Flap Small
Toe LargeSole Toe LargeInstep/Back LargeHeel Flap Large

DIRECTIONS

Toe:
Using your chosen toe-up CO method, CO 22 sts, or 11 sts on each of two needles. Distribute sts as you prefer and join for working in the round. Divide sock into instep and sole as follows: the first 11 sts are the instep sts; the remaining 11 sts are the sole sts.

Knit 1 round.
Work rounds 1 through 22 of Toe Instep chart for your size over instep sts, and rounds 1 through 22 of Sole Toe chart over sole sts.  29[33] sts for instep, 27[31] for sole; 56[64] sts total.

Foot:
Foot round: Work appropriate size of Instep chart over 29[33] sts of instep, k across sole sts.
Work as set until sock is 2.75[3.75] inches shorter than your foot. See Pattern Note for adjustment to this measurement according to your own round gauge.

Gusset
Continuing Instep chart as established, work gusset increases as follows:
Round 1: Work in pattern over 29[33] instep sts, k1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1.
Round 2: Work in pattern over 29[33] instep sts, knit to end of round.
Work Rounds 1-2 a total of 11[15] times, 49[61] sole sts, 78[94] sts total.
Final gusset increase round: Work in pattern over 29[33] instep sts, k1, M1, k24, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1. 52[64] sole sts, 81[97] sts total.

Heel Turn
Note: the first and last of the normal heel stitches, the stitches just inside the gusset increases on either side, will be incorporated into the gusset stitches.  These two extra gusset stitches are decreased away, helping reduce the risk of holes at the top of the heel. 

Working back and forth on heel sts only for heel turn, as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: K38[46], w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: P24[28], w&t.
Row 3 [RS]: Knit to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t.
Row 4 [WS]: Purl to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 12 sts remain unwrapped in center of heel, with 7[9] wrapped sts and 13[17] unwrapped sts on each side to form the gusset.

Next row [RS]: Row 5: K12, (pick up wrap on next st and knit together with the st) 6[8] times, pick up wrap on next st and knit together with that st and the next unwrapped st (3 loops together), turn.

Following row [WS]: Slip 1, p18[20], (pick up wrap on next st and purl together with the st) 6[8] times, pick up wrap on next st and purl together with that st and the next unwrapped st (3 loops together), turn. 26[30] heel sts, 12[16] gusset sts on each side.

Heel Flap
Continue to work back and forth on heel sts for heel flap. Follow pattern below or refer to Heel Flap chart for your size.
Row 1 [RS]: Slip 1, (k1 tbl, p1) 5[6] times, RT, LT, (p1, k1 tbl) 5[6] times, ssk, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Slip 1, [p1 tbl, k1] 5[6] times, p4, [k1, p1 tbl] 5[6] times, p2tog, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Slip 1, (k1 tbl, p1) 5[6] times, LT, RT, (p1, k1 tbl) 5[6] times, ssk, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Slip 1, [p1 tbl, k1] 5[6] times, p4, [k1, p1 tbl] 5[6] times, p2tog, turn.
Work Rows 1-4 a total of 5[7] times, then work Rows 1-2 once more. 1 unworked gusset st remains on each side of the heel flap.

Resume working in the round as follows: With RS facing, slip 1, (k1 tbl, p1) 5[6] times, LT, RT, (p1, k1 tbl) 5[6] times, ssk.

Next round: Work in pattern over 29[33] instep sts (continuing with next round of Instep chart), k2tog, (k1 tbl, p1) 5[6] times, k4, (p1, k1 tbl) 5[6] times, k1 tbl.  26[30] heel sts remain, no gusset sts, 55[63] sts total.

Leg
Continue to work Back in Heel Flap chart, substituting k1 tbl for the first slipped st and the last ssk, until you have completed the current repeat of the Instep chart.

Establish leg patterning as follows: Work Instep / Front chart over 29[33] instep sts, work rounds 1-8 of Back chart over 26[30] back sts. If you find yourself ending Heel Flap chart over Back sts on a Row 2, keep the continuity of the twisted st pattern over the center 4 sts as you work up the back of the sock.

Continue as established, working rounds 1-8 of Instep and Back charts six more times, or until sock is 1 inch shorter than desired length. Sample as photographed has leg approximately 6.5 inches long.

Ribbing round: K1 tbl, (p1, k1 tbl) 14[16] times, k1 tbl twice, (p1, k1 tbl) 5[6] times, k1 tbl 3 times, (p1, k1 tbl) 5[6] times, k1 tbl.

Work 10 rounds of rib pattern as established. BO loosely in pattern.

spacer

FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Immerse in lukewarm water, roll in a thick towel, and allow to dry flat.

spacer
ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Sivia Harding learned how to knit in 2000 and has being churning out patterns since 2003. Her work has appeared in publication under her own name and in various magazines and books and clubs.

Sivia is known for her work with exceptional beaded knits, although she is sometimes known to knit without beads, if only to prove that she can stop beading any time she wants. You'll find her here.

 

spacer