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Patterns<click for more!
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Pink Needles
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ml
Heavy Duty Design
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Title

Tangy

Do you smell something fishy? No, of course you don’t!  Don’t worry that bad smells will scare people away when you wear this hat. This 100% odorless fish will attract people to you instead!

It was specially designed for a boy called Jonas, fish lover and future sea biologist. But it looks good on any other head, even if you are not 10 years old any more! This hat is an ideal project for using left over bits of yarn. Vary with colors and striping as much as you like!

If you prefer, simply replace the X in the fish eye with a dot for a pupil and you can revive your fish hat, so to speak!



spacer models:Jonas, Mark and Philo spacer photos: Theo Egberts

SIZE

One (will fit both child and adult)

 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumfence: 20 inches, unstretched
Length: 17 inches

 
MATERIALS
spacer Hats shown were knitted using mystery yarn from stash. Any worsted-weight wool or wool/acrylic yarn that can be knitted to the gauge given, can be used. Approx. 350-400yd/320-366m will be needed, in a combination of colours. Use any colors you like, and vary the stripes as you please!

Recommended needle size:
spacer 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles
spacer 1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles (optional)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

spacer Safety pin or split ring marker
spacer Small stitch holder
spacer Black yarn or embroidery floss
spacer Small amount white felt
spacer White sewing thread
spacer Tapestry needle
spacer Sewing needles with both large and small eyes

 
GAUGE

18 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

 
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

1x1 Rib (Worked back and forth over an even number of sts):
All Rows: [K1, p1] to end.




DIRECTIONS
Using desired color for fish lips, CO 90 sts onto double-point needles. Divide sts between needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Once first few rounds have been worked, place safety pin or split ring marker in work to indicate beginning of round.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 1.5 inches. Break color used for lips and join desired color for head.



Shape Mouth:
Mouth is shaped using short rows. It is not necessary to pick up wraps when working wrapped sts on subsequent rows; edge of mouth will be hidden by rolled edge of lip.

Row 1 [RS]: K27, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P9, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K10, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P11, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K12, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P13, W&T.
Row 7 [RS]: K14, W&T.
Row 8 [WS]: P16, W&T.
Row 9 [RS]: K18, W&T.
Row 10 [WS]: P20, W&T.
Row 11 [RS]: K22, W&T.
Row 12 [WS]: P24, W&T.
Row 13 [RS]: K26, W&T.
Row 14 [WS]: P28, W&T.
Row 15 [RS]: K30, W&T.
Row 16 [WS]: P32, W&T.
Row 17 [RS]: K65, W&T.
Repeat Rows 2-16.
Next Row [RS]: K to end of round.

Shape Body:
Continue as follows, changing colors as desired.

Work 4.75 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 1: [K8, k2tog] 9 times. 81 sts.
Work 2.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 2: [K7, k2tog] 9 times. 72 sts.
Work 1.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 3: [K6, k2tog] 9 times. 63 sts.
Work 1.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 4: [K5, k2tog] 9 times. 54 sts.
Work 0.75 inch in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 5: [K4, k2tog] 9 times. 45 sts.
Work 1.5 inches in stockinette st.
Decrease Round 6: [K2tog] to last 3 sts, k3tog. 22 sts.

Tail:
K 3 rounds.
Next Round: K17; place last 11 sts worked on small st holder. First half of tail will be worked back and forth over remaining 11 sts on needles (last 5 sts of current round and first 6 sts of next round). If desired, work tail using straight needles. 

Row 1 [RS]: [K1, kfb] 5 times, k1. 16 sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 2-6 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: [K1, kfb] to end. 24 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, kfb, [k3, kfb] 5 times, k2. 30 sts.
Rows 7-12: Work in stockinette st.
Row 13 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 28 sts.
Row 14 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 15-20: Work as for Rows 13-14. 22 sts.
Row 21 [RS]: Work as for Row 13. BO remaining 20 sts.

Replace held sts on needle and rejoin yarn with RS facing. Work Rows 1-21 as for first half of tail.

Dorsal Fin:
Lay hat flat, so that longest parts of short-rowed fish mouth are at center, and shortest parts are at side folds. Mark a column of sts along center of hat; this will be top of fish. Beginning approx. 6 inches above lower edge of hat and working towards tail, pick up and k 15 sts in marked columns of sts, picking up 1 st for each row.

K 1 row.
Next Row: [Kfb] in each st to end. 30 sts.
Work 10 rows in 1x1 Rib. BO all sts knitwise.

Pectoral Fins:
Mark a column of sts at each side of hat, centered over shortest parts of short-rowed fish mouth. Beginning approx. 6 inches above lower edge of hat and working towards tail, pick up and k 10 sts in one marked columns of sts, picking up 1 st for each row.

K 1 row.
Next Row: [Kfb] in each st to end. 20 sts.
Continue as for Dorsal Fin.
Repeat for other marked column.

 

FINISHING

Sew each tail half together along shaped edges. Weave in all ends.

Eyes:
Cut two circles of white felt with diameter of approx. 1.75 inches. Use white sewing thread and small-eye sewing needle to sew to hat as show in photos. Use black yarn or embroidery floss and large-eye sewing needle to embroider a black X [for deceased fish] or black dot [for alive-but-non-kicking fish] on each eye.

 
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
designernameBlank
Thelma Egberts is a Dutch knitter who has a thing for weird and funny hats.  She mostly uses leftover yarn and yarn from stash (even her grandmothers stash!). That’s why she often has to improvise on patterns or design her own. 

Luckily her son Jonas (future sea biologist) likes uncommon hats too. The Dead Fish Hat is his favorite. At first he even didn’t want to share the pattern. But eventually he did and now it’s on Knitty!

   
 

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