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Patterns<click for more!
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Pink Needles
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Little Knits
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Title
spacer photos: Anna Pasquarella

Tangy

The branching cables in the design are inspired by the intricate braided designs in Celtic and medieval illuminated manuscripts.  All the cables of the main pattern branch off from one beginning, but end in different points throughout the pattern.  Since the back of the leg was feeling sparse, I added a small branching medallion on the back, to keep interest from both the front and the back.  There’s plenty of cabling to be had here, and it’s important to keep a close eye on which direction the cable should be crossing as the cables start to pile up, however it’s all basic two over two cabling. 

All the cables make a nice thick padding on the top, perfect for keeping your feet warm during the cold winter months.  Combined with the soft warmth of cashmere in the Casbah yarn, your feet will be toasty and happy until spring rolls around.  Don’t let the cashmere content scare you away from this yarn, it’s still machine washable.

SIZE

Men’s Small/Women’s Medium

 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Socks fit an 8.5 inch foot (measured at ball of foot) with a 9.5 inch (adjustable) foot length.  For a looser fit, go up one needle size.

 
MATERIALS

spacer Handmaiden Casbah [80% Merino/10% Cashmere /10% Nylon; 354yd/325m per 115g skein]; color: Camouflage; 1 skein
OR
spacer Interlacements Tiny Toes [100% Superwash Merino; 185yd/169m per 50g skein]; color: Scottish Lichen (color 219); 2 skeins

Recommended needle size:
spacer 1 set of 5 US #2/2.75mm double-point needles 
OR
spacer 1 32-inch US #2/2.75mm circular needle
OR
spacer 2 16-inch US #2/2.75mm circular needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

spacer stitch markers
spacer cable needle
spacer tapestry needle

 
GAUGE

32 sts/44 rounds = 4" in stockinette stitch

 
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Judy’s Magic Cast on: instructions can be found here.

W&T on right side: Bring working yarn to front, slip stitch as if to knit, bring working yarn to back, slip stitch as if to purl back to left needle. Turn work.

W&T on wrong side: Bring working yarn to back, slip stitch as if to purl, bring working yarn to front, slip stitch as if to purl back to left needle. Turn work.

LLI: Left Leaning Increase.  Pick up second stitch down on right needle with left needle, knit stitch through back loop.

RLI: Right Leaning Increase. Pick up stitch below current stitch on left needle, place stitch on left needle, knit stitch.

C2 over 2 right P: Sl 2 to cn, hold in back. k2, p2 from cn

C2 over 2 left P: Sl 2 to cn, hold in front. p2, k2 from cn

C2 over 2 right: Sl 2 to cn, hold in back. k2, k2 from cn

C2 over 2 left: Sl 2 to cn, hold in front. k2, k2 from cn

Working with Magic Loop or Two Circular Needles: Although the instructions are written for working with double point needles, this pattern can be easily be worked using the Magic Loop or Two Circular method, and some may find it easier to do the instep cables in this method.

Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind off: instructions can be found here.

Main Chart for the front of the sock is rather large, so we've broken it into 4 parts to make it printable. Please download each part of the chart and assemble them, left to right, top to bottom as follows, to produce the complete Main Chart:

1a 1b
2a 2b

DIRECTIONS
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Toe
CO 6 sts, 3 on each needle, using Judy’s Magic Cast on, ensuring you leave at least a 6 inch tail.

Knit 1 round using both tail and working yarn held together for every st.  Each loop on your needles is counted as a single st. 12 sts total.

Knit 1 round.

Redistribute sts, 3 onto each dpn.  Place markers between sts 2 and 3, between sts 4 and 5, between sts 8 and 9, and between sts 10 and 11.  Needles 1 & 2 are instep, 3 & 4 are sole.

Toe increase rounds
Round 1: RLI, k to first marker, RLI, k to second marker RLI, k to end of needle 2; RLI, k to third marker, RLI, k to fourth marker, k to end.
Round 2: K to end.

Repeat these two rounds until there are 66 sts total. Remove stitch markers.

Work in Stockinette until sock measures 4 inches. (For a shorter foot, work 3.5 inches, for a longer foot, work 4.5 inches.)

Foot
Setup Round 1: K16, pfb, k to end.
Setup Round 2: K15, p4, k to end.

Begin working Main Chart [download the four parts and assemble as instructed in Pattern Notes above] starting on the center 4 purl stitches, adding purl stitches outside of chart, or increasing on each side as per chart. Stitches that are not part of the chart are worked in stockinette.  End after round 49.
107 sts total, 74 on instep needles, 33 on sole needles.

Heel turn setup
Heel setup, worked on insetp sts on needles 1 &2: [K2, RLI] 7 times, k2, place marker, k3, work chart Round 50, k3, place marker, [K2, LLI] 7 times, k2. 121 sts.  

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Heel Turn
Continuing on same round as before, working on needles 3 & 4...
Row 1
[RS]: K3 [sl 1, k1] until 2 sts remain, w&t. 

From here, you'll work back and forth only on the 33 sts on needles 3 & 4, leave sts on needles 1 & 2 on hold.

Row 2 [WS]: P until 2 sts remain, w&t.

Row 3 [RS]: [K1, sl 1] until 3 sts remain, w&t.

Row 4 [WS]: P until 3 sts remain, w&t.

Row 5 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] until 4 sts remain, w&t.

Row 6 [WS]: P until 4 sts remain, w&t.

Row 7 [RS]: [K1, sl 1] until 5 sts remain, w&t.

Row 8 [WS]: P until 5 sts remain, w&t.

Row 9 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] until 6 sts remain, w&t.
Row 10 [WS]: P until 6 sts remain, w&t.
Row 11 [RS]: [K1, sl 1] until 7 sts remain, w&t.
Row 12 [WS]: P until 7 sts remain, w&t.
Row 13 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] until 8 sts remain, w&t.
Row 14 [WS]: P until 8 sts remain, w&t.
Row 15 [RS]: [K1, sl 1] until 9 sts remain, w&t.
Row 16 [WS]: P until 9 sts remain, w&t.
Row 17 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] until 10 sts remain, w&t.
Row 18 [WS]: P until 10 sts remain, w&t.
Row 19 [RS] [K1, sl 1] until first wrapped stitch. Using right needle or cable needle, pick up wrap and lift it up over the left needle, placing wrap to the left of the wrapped stitch, ssk stitch and wrap together. Repeat for each wrapped stitch until two stitches remain, lift wrap as before, then ssk last two stitches and wrap together.
Row 20 [WS]: Sl 1, p until 1st wrapped stitch. Using right needle or cable needle, pick up wrap lift it up over the left needle, placing wrap to the left of wrapped stitch, p stitch and wrap together.  Repeat for each wrapped stitch until last two stitches remain, lift wrap as before, then p last two stitches and wrap together.

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Heel Flap
Move all stitches before the stitch marker from needle 1 to needle 4, and slip all stitches after the stitch marker on needle 2 to a free needle.  Working yarn will be on needle 3, you will start row 1 with needle 5.

Row 1 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] 15 times, ssk. 
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p29, p2tog.

Repeat these 2 rows until 35 stitches remain on needles 3 & 4.

Next Row [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] 15 times, ssk, k1.

At this point, you'll resume knitting in the round.

Next round: K3, place marker, resume round 51 of main chart, place marker after end of chart, k3 to end of needle 2.  At start of needle 3, k1, k2tog, k to end of needle 4.

Leg
Continue working stockinette in the round outside of stitch markers, and main chart inside stitch markers, ending after round 59.

Next round: Work in pattern as established until Chart is complete, then k16, pfb, k to end.
Following round: Work in pattern as established until Chart is complete, then k15, p4, k to end.

Continue working leg, following main chart for needles 1 & 2, and working back medallion chart on needles 3 & 4, starting on center 4 purl sts.  As with front, stitches that are not part of the chart are worked in stockinette.

After final round of both charts, there will be 28 stitches each on needles 1 & 2, and 38 each stitches on needles 3 & 4. Shift 5 stitches from needle 4 to needle 1, and 5 stitches from needle 3 to needle 2.  33 stitches on needles 1 & 2, 33 stitches on needles 3 & 4. 132 sts. The end of needle 4 remains the end/beginning of round.  

Knit in stockinette for 1 inch.

Cuff
Rounds 1 & 2: [K4, p2, k3, p2] to end.
Round 3: [C2 over 2 right, p2, k3, p2]  to end.
Rounds 4, 5, 6: [K4, p2, k3, p2]  to end.
Round 7: [C2 over 2 right, p2, k3, p2]  to end.
Round 8, 9, 10: [K4, p2, k3, p2]  to end.
Round 11: [C2 over 2 right, p2, k3, p2]  to end.
Round 12: [K4, p2, k3, p2]  to end.

Bind off using Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind-off, or preferred bind off method.
(For a looser cuff, replace cable rounds with k4, p2, k3, p2 ribbing.)

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FINISHING

Weave in ends.

 
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
designernameBlank
Scott started knitting two years ago, and quickly acquired an obsession with all things stick and string related. Although cabled knitting is a favorite, branching out to other types of knitting is not unknown. He lives in Seattle with his wife, who fuels his hobby with her own love of spinning, and a cat who thankfully doesn’t care about the yarn at all.

Glimpses of his yarn and fiber adventures can be found here.

   
 

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