Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Fat Cat Knits
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

With so many wonderful dyers in our midst, I find myself spinning many painted rovings, winding vibrant colors onto my drop spindles. Navajo-plied for strength and for boldness of color, the spun rovings make wonderful striped sock yarn.  Eventually I tire of stripes, but because I love the plying, I seek ways to divert the stripes into something more random, something surprising.

These socks are the cure for stripe boredom. The shifting colors in the yarn undulate into waves that curve like drifting autumn leaves, or distant hills at sunset. For definition and relief (both visual and mental), the waves are separated by ridges of garter stitch. 


Knitters who challenge themselves to learn backward knitting will speed through the pattern’s many short rows. The leg width is dependent upon the number of pattern repeats, but is stretchy and forgiving.  The shifting pattern repeat means these socks are best knit on double-pointed needles.

spacer photos: Kirsten Hall

SIZE
Women’s small [large].  Shown in size large.

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Circumference: 7.5 inches at leg & 6.5 inches at foot [9 inches at leg & 8 inches at foot]
Length heel to toe: adjustable by pattern repeat. 

Sock shown size large, 9 inches around at leg, 8 inches around at foot, and foot is 10.25 inches long; 6.5 wave rounds from start of gusset to beginning of toe.

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MATERIALS
spacer Fiber:  Corriedale-cross wool roving, 6 oz, painted by Laurie Weinsoft of the Twisted Sisters, for Northwest Wools in Portland, OR, with half an oz left over [shown in rainbow sock at the top of the page]

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Spinning Tool: 2 Kundert 1.25oz drop spindles
Niddy Noddy: Kromski, 42 inch
Lazy Kate: Lizzy Kate spindlekate by Greensleeves

Finished Yarn:
spacer Wraps per inch: 14
spacer Yardage used:400 yards

Drafting Method:
spacer semi-worsted, medium draw with pre-drafted fibers; roving was split vertically into pinky-finger-sized strips for even flow of colors

Plying Method:
spacer Navajo-plied for a 3-ply yarn with 4 twists per inch

Commercial Yarn Alternative

spacer Cherry Tree Hill Sockittome [80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon, 450 yards per 100 gram skein]; color: parrot; one skein. [shown in blue sock below]

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #2/2.75mm double-point needles
OR
spacer 1 long US #2/2.75mm circular needle for magic loop method
OR
spacer 2 US #2/2.75mm circular needles, 24 inches or longer

Tools

spacer 3 stitch markers (the removable type are best)
spacer Yarn needle

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GAUGE
30 sts/42 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round

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PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

sl1yf:  slip one st purlwise, holding yarn to front (facing you, regardless of WS or RS)

Working decreases with yarnovers:
p2tog tbl when working a yo together with another stitch:
sl yo purlwise, sl 1 knitwise, return both sts to left needle, p2tog tbl

SSK when working a yo together with another stitch:
sl1 knitwise, sl yo purlwise, return both sts to left needle, k2tog tbl

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DIRECTIONS
Ribbing/cuff
CO 48[60] sts. Distribute across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round. Mark beg of round. 

Ribbing round: round [k1, p1] to end of round. 

Work 5 more rounds as established.

Ribbed Top Half Wave Pattern
Pattern is worked over 12 sts, in short rows. Work in groups of 12 stitches, completing all 7 rows before moving over to the next group of 12 sts and starting again.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, [p1, k1] 5 times, turn.

Row 2 [WS]: YO, [p1, k1] 5 times, turn.

Row 3 [RS]: YO, [p1, k1] 4 times, turn.

Row 4 [WS]: YO, [p1, k1] 3 times, turn.

Row 5 [RS]: YO, [p1, k1] 2 times, turn.

Row 6 [WS]: YO, p1, k1, turn.

Row 7 [RS]: YO, p1, [k1, P2tog] 3 times.  Do not turn. 

Repeat Rows 1-7 3[4] more times, to end of round.

Each repeat of 7 rows results in 15 sts and a total of 60[75] for the round.

Garter Ridge Pattern 1
Round 1:[ [SSK, k1] 3 times, k6].  Repeat 3[4] more times to end of round.  48[60]sts.
Round 2: Purl.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: Purl.

Wave Pattern 1
As before, pattern worked in short rows.  Work in groups of 12 stitches, completing all 11 rows before moving over to the next group of 12 sts and starting again.

Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p2, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k2, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p4, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: YO, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p8, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k8, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: YO, p6, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: YO, k4, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: YO, p2, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: YO, k2, [k2tog, k1] 2 times, k2tog.  Do not turn.  

Continue as follows:

Row 1 [RS]: K7, turn.
Rows 2-11: as above.
Repeat Rows 1-11 until 4[5] waves are completed.  The last wave will end 9 sts before marked start of round.  (15 sts remain per repeat of Wave Pattern 1, 60[75] sts total.)

Work [SSK, k1] 3 times to reach end of round. 57[72] sts remain.

Garter Ridge Pattern 2
Round 1: [k6, [SSK, k1] 3 times]. Repeat 2[3] more times, k12. 48[60] sts remain.
Round 2: Purl.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: Purl.

Wave Pattern 2
Row 1 [RS]: K7, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p2, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k2, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p4, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: YO, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p8, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k8, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: YO, p6, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: YO, k4, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: YO, p2, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: YO, k2, [k2tog, k1] 2 times, k2tog.  Do not turn.
Repeat Rows 1-11 until 4[5] waves are completed.  15 sts remain per repeat of Wave Pattern, 60[75] sts total.

Continue, alternating Garter Ridge Pattern 1 and Wave Pattern 1 with Garter Ridge Pattern 2 and Wave Pattern 2 until 7 full wave and 8 garter ridge rounds are completed.  Setup instep
Continuing in short-rows, work Wave Pattern 2 over 24[36] sts. These stitches will form the instep.

Setup Heel Flap: Bottom Half Wave Pattern
Then work bottom Half ave pattern, as follows, over 24 sts for both sizes. These stitches will be used for the heel.
Row 1 [RS]: K7, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p2, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k2, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p4, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 5[RS]: YO, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p8, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k10, k2tog.  Do not turn. 
Repeat Rows 1-7 once more, turn.  13 sts remain for each half wave worked, 26 sts total.
Final row [WS]: Sl1, p10, p2tog tbl, p11, p2tog tbl, turn.  24 sts remain for heel flap, both sizes.

Heel Flap
Work over 24 sts for both sizes.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, [k1, sl1] to last st, sl1yf, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: K1tbl, p across to last st, sl1yf, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: K1tbl, [sl1, k1] to last st, sl1yf, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: K1tbl, p across to last st, sl1yf, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: K1tbl, [k1, sl1] to last st, sl1yf, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: K1tbl, p across to last st, sl1yf, turn.
Repeat Rows 3-6 5[7] times until 22[30] rows have been worked and there are 11[15] sl sts along side of heel flap.

Heel Turn
Optional for a stronger heel: continue to work all right side rows in bird’s eye pattern.  For simplicity, instructions for these rows leave out the bird’s eye sl sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1tbl, k15, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p8, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k8, k2tog, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p9, p2tog, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: YO, k10, k2tog, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p11, p2tog, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k12, k2tog, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: YO, p13, p2tog, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: YO, k14, k2tog, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: YO, p15, p2tog, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: YO, k16, k2tog, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: YO, p17, p2tog, turn.
Row 13 [RS]: YO, k18, k2tog, turn.
Row 14 [WS]: YO, p19, p2tog, turn.
Row 15 [RS]: YO, k20, k2tog, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: YO, p21, p2tog, turn.
Row 17 [RS]: YO, k22, k2tog, turn. 
Row 18 [WS]: Sl1, p22, p2tog, turn.
Row 19 [RS]: Sl1, k22, k2tog.  Do not turn.  24 sts remain on heel.

Picking up Gusset Stitches
Place marker for start of round. 

Gusset setup round 1: Pick up and knit 1 stitch through both loops of each slipped st along side of heel flap, plus 1 more - 12[16] sts; place marker for right gusset; on instep sts, work [SSK, k1] 3 times, k6], repeat 1[2] more times; place marker for left gusset; at next side of heel flap, pick up and knit 1 stitch through both loops of each slipped st along side of heel flap, plus 1 more - 12[16] sts; knit to end of round. 72[92] sts total.

Gusset setup round 2: K to 2 sts before right gusset marker, k2tog, p024[36] to left gusset marker, SSK, k to end of round.

Gusset setup round 3: K to right gusset marker, k24[36] sts to left gusset marker, k to end of round.

Gusset setup round 4: K to 2 sts before right gusset marker, k2tog, p24[36] to left gusset marker, SSK, k to end of round. 4 gusset sts decreased, for total of 68[88] sts remaining.

Gusset Wave Pattern 1
Instep continues with Wave Pattern 1, and the first repeat of the wave will be divided across the sole and gusset sts. 

Row 1 [RS]: K to right gusset marker, sl1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p1, p2tog, p to left gusset marker, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k1, SSK, k to right gusset marker, k1, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p3, p2tog, p to left gusset marker, p1, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: YO, k3, SSK, k to right gusset marker, k3, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p5, p2tog, p to left gusset marker, p3, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k5, SSK, k to right gusset marker, k3, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: YO, p3, p2tog, p to left gusset marker, p3, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: YO, k3, SSK, k to right gusset marker, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: YO, p1, p2tog, p to left gusset marker, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: YO, k1, SSK, k to end of round. Do not turn.

Continue as follows:
[K1, k2tog] 3 times, work Wave Pattern 2 over next 12[24] instep sts, [SSK, k1] 3 times, k to end of round. 10 more gusset sts decreased, 61[84] sts remain.

Gusset Garter Ridge Pattern 1
Round 1: K to 2 sts before right gusset marker, k2tog, [K6, [SSK, k1] 3 times], repeat 0[1] more time, k12, SSK, k to end of round. 56[76] sts remain.
Round 2: K to right gusset marker, p across 24[36] instep sts, k to end of rnd.
Round 3: K to 2 sts before right gusset marker, k2tog, K across 24[36] instep sts, SSK, k to end of round.
Round 4: K to right gusset marker, p across 24[36] instep sts, k to end of rnd.  54[74] sts remain.

Gusset Wave Pattern 2
Round 1: K to right gusset marker, k2tog, work Wave Pattern 2 over next 24[36] instep sts, SSK, k to end of round.  2 more gusset sts decreased, 58[81] sts remain.

Gusset Garter Ridge Pattern 2
Round 1: K to right gusset marker, [[SSK, k1] 3 times, k6], repeat 1[2] times, k to end of round. 50[70] sts remain.
Round 2: K to 2 sts before right gusset marker, k2tog, p across 24[36] instep sts, SSK, k to end of round.
Round 3: K to right gusset marker and across 24[36] instep sts, k to end of round.
Round 4: K to 2 sts before right gusset marker, k2tog, p across 24[36] instep sts, SSK, k to end of round. 4 more gusset sts decreased, 48[68] sts remain.

For small sock, continue as follows:

Instep continues with Sole Wave Pattern, and the first repeat of the wave will be divided across the sole sts. 

Sole Wave Pattern
Row 1 [RS]: K to right gusset marker, sl1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p to left gusset marker, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k to right gusset marker, k1, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p to left gusset marker, p1, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: YO, k to right gusset marker, k3, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p to left gusset marker, p3, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k to right gusset marker, k3, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: YO, p to left gusset marker, p3, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: YO, k to right gusset marker, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: YO, p to left gusset marker, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: YO, k to end of round. Do not turn.

Continue as follows:
[k1, k2tog] 3 times, work Wave Pattern 2 over next 12[24] instep sts, [SSK, k1] 3 times, k to end of round. 51 sts remain.

For large sock, continue with rows 1-9 of Gusset Wave Pattern 1. 8 more gusset sts decreased, 64 sts remain.

Then work the remaining two rows as follows:
Row 10 [WS]: YO, p to left gusset marker, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: YO, k to end of round. Do not turn.

Continue as follows:
[k1, k2tog] 3 times, work Wave Pattern 2 over next 24 instep st, [SSK, k1] 3 times, k to end of round. 66 sts remain.

For both sizes, continue as follows:
Foot Garter Ridge Pattern 1:
Round 1: [k6, [SSK, k1] 3 times]. Repeat 0[1] more time, k36. 
Round 2: P24[36], k24.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: P24[36], k24. 48[60] sts remain.

Foot Wave Pattern 1:
Work Wave Pattern 2 (as for leg) over 24[36] instep sts, then knit 24 sole sts to end of round. 54[69] sts.

Foot Garter Ridge Pattern 2:
Round 1: [[SSK, k1] 3 times, k6]. Repeat 1[2] more times, k24. 
Round 2: P24[36], k24.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: P24[36], k24. 48[60] sts remain.

Foot Wave Pattern 2:
Work Rows 1-11 of Sole Wave Pattern. 
At start of round, work [k1, k2tog] 3 times over first 6 instep sts.  Work Wave Pattern 2 (as for leg) over next 12[24] instep sts by working 1[2] repeats of Rows 1-11 of Wave Pattern 2 over the instep, [SSK, k1] 3 times, k to end of round. 51[66] sts remain.

Repeat these four patterns in this sequence until sock is 2[3] inches short of desired foot length as measured from heel to trough of wave (shortest foot length measurement). End with a Garter Ridge.

Final Bottom Half Wave
Work half wave pattern as follows. 
If Foot Garter Ridge Pattern 1 was just worked, begin:
Row 1 [RS]: K7, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: YO, p2, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: YO, k2, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: YO, p4, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: YO, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: YO, p8, p2tog tbl, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: YO, k10, k2tog.  Do not turn. 

If Foot Garter Ridge Pattern 2 was just worked, begin:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, turn.
Rows 2-7: as above.

Repeat Rows 1-7 until 2[3] half waves completed. 13 sts remain for each half wave worked, 50[63] total.  K to first st before yo of first half wave (which may be end of round or 7 sts before end of round, depending on which Ridge pattern you ended with).
Final round: [SSK, k11] 2[3] times, k to end of round. 48[60] sts remain.

Toe
Ensure foot measures 1.5[2] inches shorter than full foot length. If more length is needed, k plain rounds until required length is reached. 

Round 1: [[K6[8], k2tog] place marker] 6 times.
Rounds 2-3: Knit.
Round 4: [K to 2 sts before marker, k2tog] 6 times.
Repeat Rounds 2-4 until total sts reduced by half.
Repeat Rounds 3-4 until 12 sts remain.


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FINISHING
Break yarn, thread through all 12 sts on needles twice, cinch to close. Using tapestry needle, weave in ends on inside of sock.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Kirsten Hall knits and spins in Rockville, Maryland. Kirsten won second place in the 2009 XRX Think Outside the Sox knitting contest. 

She is spindleknitter on Ravelry. She lives with her creative husband and artistic daughter (11). Together they make artsy messes at the kitchen table.

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