Scarlow cardigan: Knitty Deep Fall 2010

by King Bee

When asked to make a 'slightly hippy-ish' cardigan by a forty-something male friend, I shied away from flower motifs and fringes, and opted for introducing a touch of colorwork to make this brighter than your average man's cardigan, without creating anything that could be considered garish.

The finished product, with its slightly mottled moorland colors of dead bracken and flowering gorse, somehow made me think of Cumbria in northern England, and hence the name Scarlow, which has a Cumbrian ring to it, was born.

With only very simple modifications, the pattern can serve as a hip-length woman's cardigan, which you can see here knitted up in colors reminiscent of heather, moss, and slate. All the instructions necessary for making the women's version are included within the pattern.

The pattern is quite a simple one, with just a couple of techniques to raise it above a beginner level. There is stranded colorwork in the collar, in the form of 'corrugated ribbing', and there are some stitches to pick up in order to work the pocket edgings, again in corrugated ribbing.

You'll also need to be able to sew in a zipper, and wield a cable needle to work the cable decreases along each raglan. The side panels, on the other hand, are a very simple garter stitch, using alternate stripes of the solid-colored main yarn with the other yarn, a self-striping (long-repeat) variegated type. The sleeves and other body panels are each worked separately from the base upwards in a k5, p1 rib, which makes for a nice non-curling bottom edge, until the raglans are reached, after which point they are knitted in one piece. The side panels are sewn in separately later.

models + photos: King Bee, Jude

SIZE
A[B, C, D, E] (men's sweater shown in shown in size B, with length added to sleeves; women's sweater shown in size A)

Note: These sizes correspond to mens' sizes S[M, L, 1X, 2X] and women's sizes M[L, 1X, 2X, 3X]. Directions are given for both versions. Although width and circumference measurements are the same between men's and women's versions, length measurements will differ.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 40.75[44.75, 47.75, 52.75, 56.5] inches
Length of men's version: 28.75[30.25, 31.5, 31, 32.75] inches
Length of women's version: 24.5[25.75, 26.25, 27, 27] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn

Men's version [shown above]:
[MC] Stylecraft Life Chunky [25% wool, 75% acrylic; 162yd/148m per 100g ball]; color: #2318 Bracken; 8[9, 10, 11, 13] balls
[CC] Wendy Fusion [50% wool, 50% acrylic; 96yd/88m per 50g ball]; color: #160 Turmeric; 3[3, 3, 4, 4] balls
Note: Wendy Fusion has recently been discontinued. An excellent substitute, to be purchased in the same quantities, is Trendsetter Yarns Tonalita [52% wool, 48% acrylic; 100yd/91m per 50g ball].

Women's version [shown below]:
[MC] Rowan Felted Tweed Aran [50% merino wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 95yd/87m per 50g ball]; color: #731 Plum; 12[14, 15, 17, 18] balls
[CC] Noro Kureyon [100% wool; 109 yds/100m per 50g ball]; color: #188; 2[3, 3, 3, 3] balls

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #10/6mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer (longer needle recommended for larger sizes)
Note: If preferred, straight needles may be used for all parts of sweater except yoke and collar.

Notions
Cable needle
Stitch holders
Row counter
Cotton fabric for pocket linings (see measurements given in directions below)
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread
1 separating zipper, approx. 28[30, 32, 32, 34] inches long for men's version or 24[26, 26, 28, 28] inches for women's version
Note: Buy zipper after sweater is complete to ensure correct length.

GAUGE
14 sts/19.5 rows = 4" in stockinette st, using MC
14 sts/28.5 rows = 4" in Garter Stripe Pattern
17 sts*/19.5 rows = 4" in 5x1 Rib using MC, with ribbing fully contracted
All gauge measurements taken after blocking.

*This gauge measurement is taken over a portion of fabric containing 3 purl ribs.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This jacket has a deep yoke and wide sleeves. It is meant to be worn as a jacket, over other layers.

k3tog: Knit the next 3 sts together. 2 sts decreased.

RLI (Right Lifted Increase): Use the right needle to pick up the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle. Place it on the left needle, then knit into it. 1 stitch has been increased.

LLI (Left Lifted Increase): Use the left needle to pick up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle. Knit into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.

LCDD (Left Cable Double Decrease): Sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work, so that sts on cable needle sit directly in front of sts on left needle; [k 1 st from cable needle together with 1 st from left needle] twice. 2 sts decreased.

RCDD (Right Cable Double Decrease): Sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work, so that sts on cable needle sit directly behind sts on left needle; [k 1 st from left needle together with 1 st from cable needle] twice. 2 sts decreased.

Garter Stripe Pattern:
K 2 rows using MC.
K 2 rows using CC.
Note: Pattern begins on a RS row. Carry yarn not in use loosely along right edge of work.

Corrugated Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2):
Row 1 [WS]: [K1, p1] using MC, [k2 using CC, p2 using MC] to last 4 sts, k2 using CC, [p1, k1] using MC.
Row 2 [RS]: [K2 using MC, p2 using CC] to last 2 sts, k2 using MC.
Repeat these 2 rows for Corrugated Rib.

Instructions for Backstitch can be found here (PDF link) and here.

DIRECTIONS

LEFT SIDE PANEL
Using MC, CO 28[30, 32, 36, 38] sts

For men's sweater, work 120[128, 132, 128, 134] rows Garter Stripe Pattern, placing markers in work at beginning of 24th[26th, 26th, 26th, 26th] row and 72nd[76th, 78th, 76th, 80th] row to indicate pocket placement.

For women's sweater, work 92[96, 96, 100, 94] rows Garter Stripe Pattern, placing markers in work at beginning of 18th[20th, 18th, 20th, 18th] row and 54th[58th, 56th, 58th, 56th] row to indicate pocket placement.

Continuing in Garter Stripe Pattern, divide work for underarm as follows:
Next Row [RS]: K11[12, 13, 15, 15]; place last 17[18, 19, 21, 23] sts of row on st holder.
K 2 rows.
Next Row [WS]: BO 1[1, 1, 2, 2] sts, k to end. 10[11, 12, 13, 13] sts.

Sizes B, C, D, E Only:
K 1 row.
Next Row [WS]: BO 1 st, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows -[0, 2, 2, 2] times more. -[10, 9, 10, 10] sts.

All Sizes:
K 3 rows.
Next Row [WS]: BO 1 st, k to end.
Repeat these 4 rows 7[7, 6, 7, 7] times more.
K 2 rows. BO remaining 2 sts.

Place held sts on needle and join yarn with RS facing.
Next Row [RS]: BO center 6[6, 6, 6, 8]
K 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 1[1, 1, 2, 2] sts, k to end. 10[11, 12, 13, 13] sts.

Sizes B, C, D, E Only:
K 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 1 st, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows -[0, 2, 2, 2] times more. -[10, 9, 10, 10] sts.

All Sizes:
K 3 rows.
Next Row [RS]: BO 1 st, k to end.
Repeat these 4 rows 7[7, 6, 7, 7] times more.
K 3 rows. BO remaining 2 sts.

RIGHT SIDE PANEL
Work as for left side panel, except place pocket markers at end of indicated rows, instead of beginning.

LOWER BACK
Using MC, CO 59[65, 69, 75, 81] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K2[5, 7, 4, 7], [p1, k5] to last 3[6, 8, 5, 8] sts, p1, k to end.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1[4, 6, 3, 6], [k1, p5] to last 3[6, 8, 5, 8] sts, k1, p1[4, 6, 3, 6], k1.

These two rows set 5x1 Rib pattern for back.

For men's version, continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 108[116, 118, 116, 122] rows.

For women's version, continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 88[94, 92, 98, 94] rows.

BO 1 st at beginning of next 2 rows. Break yarn and place remaining 57[63, 67, 73, 79] sts on st holder.

LOWER LEFT FRONT
Using MC, CO 29[32, 34, 37, 40] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K2[5, 7, 4, 7], [p1, k5] to last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1, [k1, p5] to last 3[6, 8, 5, 8] sts, k1, p1[4, 6, 3, 6], k1.
These two rows set pattern 5x1 Rib for lower left front.

For men's version, continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 108[116, 118, 116, 122] rows, placing markers in work at end of 16th[18th, 18th, 18th, 18th] row and 50th[52nd, 54th, 52nd, 56th] row to indicate pocket placement.

For women's version, continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 88[94, 92, 98, 94] rows, placing markers in work at end of 12th[14th, 14th, 14th, 12th] row and 38th[40th, 40th, 40th, 38th] row to indicate pocket placement.

Next Row [RS]: BO 1 st, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 row in pattern. Break yarn and place remaining 28[31, 33, 36, 39] sts on st holder.

LOWER RIGHT FRONT
Using MC, CO 29[32, 34, 37, 40] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p1, k5] to last 3[6, 8, 5, 8] sts, p1, k2[5, 7, 4, 7].

Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1[4, 6, 3, 6], [k1, p5] to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

These two rows set 5x1 Rib pattern for lower right front.

For men's version, continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 109[117, 119, 117, 123] rows, placing markers in work at beginning of 16th[18th, 18th, 18th, 18th] row and 50th[52nd, 54th, 52nd, 56th] row to indicate pocket placement.

For women's version, continue in pattern until you have worked a total of 89[95, 93, 99, 95] rows, placing markers in work at beginning of 12th[14th, 14th, 14th, 12th] row and 38th[40th, 40th, 40th, 38th] row to indicate pocket placement.

Next Row [WS]: BO 1 st, work in pattern to end.
Do not break yarn; use a new ball of yarn for sleeve. Place remaining 28[31, 33, 36, 39] sts on st holder.

SLEEVES (Make 2):
Using MC, CO 49[51, 53, 55, 57] sts
Row 1: [RS] K3[4, 5, 6, 1], [p1, k5] to last 4[5, 6, 7, 2] sts, p1, k3[4, 5, 6, 1].
Row 2: [WS] K1, p2[3, 4, 5, 0], [k1, p5] to last 4[5, 6, 7, 2] sts, k1, p2[3, 4, 5, 0], k1.
These 2 rows set 5x1 Rib pattern for sleeves. Work 2 more rows in pattern.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, RLI, work in pattern to last st, LLI, k1. 51[53, 55, 57, 59] sts.

Note: In the directions that follow, the increase rows are spaced to achieve specific sleeve lengths. Lengths are noted; if you wish to make length adjustments, add or subtract rows between increase rows. As sts are increased, work them in 5x1 Rib as set.
Note that the yoke of this sweater is quite deep, so the sleeve lengths may be a few inches shorter than usual.

Size A, men's version only (Length: 15 inches):
Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 6 rows once more. 55 sts.

*Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase
Repeat from * four times more. 75 sts.
Work 7 rows in pattern, ending with a WS row.

Size A, women's version only (Length: 13.5 inches):
*Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * rows five times more. 75 sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Size B, men's version only (Length: 15.5 inches):
*Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * four times more. 83 sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Size B, women's version only (Length: 14.25 inches):
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 4 rows fourteen times more. 83 sts.
Work 5 rows in pattern, ending with a WS row.

Size C, men's version only (Length: 16.75 inches):
*Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * once. 63 sts.

Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 4 rows twelve times more. 89 sts.
Work 5 rows in pattern, ending with a WS row.

Size C, women's version only (Length: 14 inches):
*Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 4 rows twice more.

Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * three times more. 87 sts.

Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. 89 sts.
Work 3 rows in pattern, ending with a WS row.

Size D, men's version only (Length: 17.25 inches):
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 4 rows eighteen times more. 95 sts.

Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row. 97 sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Size D, women's version only (Length: 14.25 inches):
*Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * five times more. 93 sts.

Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. 97 sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Size E, men's version only (Length: 17.5 inches):
*Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * seven times more. 107 sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Size E, women's version only (Length: 14.25 inches):
*Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Work 1 row in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat from * seven times more. 107 sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.

All Sizes:
Begin raglan sleeve cap shaping as follows:
BO 3[3, 4, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 69[77, 81, 89, 99] sts.
Work 2[0, 0, 0, 0] rows in pattern.

Raglan Decrease Row [RS]: K2, p1, k1, RCDD, work in pattern to last 8 sts, LCDD, k1, p1, k2. 65[73, 77, 85, 95] sts.
From this point on, work all rows of sleeve that are not decrease rows as follows:
WS Rows: K1, p1, k1, p3, work in pattern to last 6 sts, p3, k1, p1, k1.
RS Rows: K2, p1, k3, work in pattern to last 6 sts, k3, p1, k2.

Sizes A, B, C Only:
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Repeat these 4 rows 4[5, 5, -, -] times more. When working last Raglan Decrease Row, BO first st of row.
Next Row [WS]: BO 1 st, work in pattern to end. 43[47, 51, -, -] sts.

Sizes D, E Only:
Work 1 row in pattern. Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Repeat these 2 rows -[-, -, 2, 3] times more. -[-, -, 73, 79] sts.

Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Raglan Decrease Row.
Repeat these 4 rows three times more. -[-, -, 57, 63] sts.
Work 1 WS row in pattern. BO 1 st at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, 55, 61] sts.

All Sizes:
Break yarn. For first sleeve, place all sts on st holder. For second sleeve, leave sts on circular needle. Proceed to yoke.

YOKE
Place held sts of back, fronts, and sleeves on circular needle in the following order, with RS facing, going from right to left, and placing markers as follows: right front, place marker, one sleeve, place marker, back, place marker, remaining sleeve, place marker, left front. Yarn is attached to right front edge.
199[219, 235, 255, 279] sts: 28[31, 33, 36, 39] sts for each front, 43[47, 51, 55, 61] sts for
each sleeve, 57[63, 67, 73, 79] sts for back

Continuing in 5x1 Rib as set, shape yoke as follows.

Sizes A, B, Only:
Row 1 [RS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, k3, p1, k2, p1, k3] four times, work in pattern to end.

Row 2 [WS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, p3, k1, p2, k1, p3] four times, work in pattern to end.

Row 3 (Raglan Decrease Row) [RS]: [Work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 183[203, -, -, -] sts..

Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.

Rows 5-12: Work as for Rows 1-4. 151[171, -, -, -] sts.

Shape Neckline:
Rows 13-14: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 147[167, -, -, -] sts.
Row 15 [RS]: BO 2 sts, [work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1,
RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 129[149, -, -, -] sts.
Row 16 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 127[147, -, -, -] sts.

Size A Only:
Rows 17-20: Work as for Rows 13-16. 103 sts.
Rows 21-22: Work as for Rows 13-14. 99 sts: 8 sts for each front, 23 sts for each sleeve, 37 sts for back.
Row 23 [RS]: BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle), k3tog, p1, k1, [remove marker, k1, p1, k1, RCDD, work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k1] three times, remove marker, k1, p1, k1, [k2tog] twice, k1. 81 sts.
Rows 24-26: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 75 sts.
Rows 27-28: BO 1 st, work in pattern to end. 73 sts.

Size B Only:
Rows 17-24: Work as for Rows 13-16. When working Row 23, after binding off 2 sts, slip st from right needle back to left needle before working first LCDD.
Rows 25-26: Work as for Rows 13-14. 95 sts: 5 sts for each front, 23 sts for each sleeve, 39 sts for back.
Row 27 [RS]: BO 2 sts, ssk, pass first st on right needle over st just worked; [remove marker, k1, p1, k1, RCDD, work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k1] three times, remove marker, k1, [k2tog] twice. 77 sts.
Row 28 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 75 sts.

Size C Only:
Row 1 [RS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, k3, p1, k2, p1, k3] four times, work in pattern to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, p3, k1, p2, k1, p3] four times, work in pattern to end.
Row 3 (Raglan Decrease Row) [RS]: [Work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, p1, k2, p1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 219 sts.
Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.
Rows 5-16: Work as for Rows 1-4. 171 sts.

Shape Neckline:
Rows 17-18: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 165 sts.
Row 19 [RS]: BO 2 sts, [work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 147 sts.
Row 20 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Rows 21-22: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 141 sts.
Rows 23-26: Work as for Rows 19-22. 117 sts.
Row 27 [RS]: BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle), [ssk] twice, k1, p1, k1, [slip marker, k1, p1, k1, RCDD, work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k1] three times, slip marker, k1, p1, k1, [k2tog] twice, k3.
Rows 28-30: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 93 sts: 4 sts for each front, 23 sts for each sleeve, 39 sts for back.
Row 31 [RS]: BO 3 sts (1 st on right needle), [remove marker, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, ssk, k1, p1, k1] three times, remove marker, k1, k2tog, k1.
Row 32 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 81 sts.

Size D Only:
Row 1 (Raglan Decrease Row) [RS]: [Work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1,
k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 239 sts.
Row 2 [WS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, p3, k1, p2, k1, p3] four times, work in pattern to end.
Row 3 [RS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, k3, p1, k2, p1, k3] four times, work in pattern to end.
Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.
Rows 5-8: Work as for Rows 1-4. 223 sts.
Rows 9-10: Work as for Rows 1-2. 207 sts.
Rows 11-16: Work as for Rows 1-6. 175 sts.

Shape Neckline:
Rows 17-18: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 169 sts.
Row 19 [RS]: BO 3 sts, [work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 150 sts.
Row 20 [WS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 147 sts.
Row 21 [RS]: BO 2 sts, [work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 129 sts.
Rows 22-24: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 123 sts.
Rows 25-28: Work as for Rows 21-24. 99 sts: 6 sts for each front, 23 sts for each sleeve, 41 sts for back.
Row 29 [RS]: BO 3 sts (1 st on right needle), p1, k1, [remove marker, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, work
in pattern to 5 sts before marker, ssk, k1, p1, k1] three times, remove marker, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k1. 89 sts.
Rows 30-32: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 83 sts.

Size E Only:
Row 1 [RS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, k3, p1, k2, p1, k3] four times, work in pattern to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [Work in pattern to 5 sts before marker, p3, k1, p2, k1, p3] four times, work in pattern to end.
Row 3 (Raglan Decrease Row) [RS]: [Work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 263 sts.
Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.
Row 5 [RS]: Work as for Row 3. 247 sts.
Rows 6-8: Work all sts in pattern.
Rows 9-12: Work as for Rows 5-8. 231 sts.
Rows 13-18: Work as for Rows 3-8. 199 sts.

Shape Neckline:
Row 19 [RS]: BO 3 sts, [work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 180 sts.
Row 20 [WS]: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 177 sts.
Rows 21-22: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 173 sts.
Rows 23-24: Work as for Rows 19-20. 151 sts.
Row 25 [RS]: BO 2 sts, [work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, RCDD] four times, work in pattern to end. 133 sts.
Row 26 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 131 sts.
Rows 27-28: BO 3 sts, work in pattern to end. 125 sts: 10 sts for each front, 29 sts for each sleeve, 47 sts for back.
Row 29 [RS]: BO 2 sts (1 st on right needle), k1, [ssk] twice, p1, k1, [slip marker, k1, p1, k1, RCDD, work in pattern to 7 sts before marker, LCDD, k1, p1, k1] three times, slip marker, k1, p1, k1, [k2tog] twice, k1, p1, k1. 107 sts.
Rows 30-32: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 101 sts.
Row 33 [RS]: BO 3 sts (1 st on right needle), [remove marker, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, work in
pattern to 5 sts before marker, ssk, k1, p1, k1] three times, remove marker, k2, k2tog. 91 sts.
Row 34 [WS]: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 89 sts.

All Sizes:
Leave all sts on circular needle and proceed to collar.

COLLAR
When working Row 1, [work 2 sts using MC, work 2 sts using CC] to last 2 sts, work last 2 sts using MC.
Row 1 [RS]: Beginning at upper right front corner, pick up and k 25[26, 27, 28, 29] sts along right front neckline edge, k36[37, 40, 41, 44], k2tog, k35[36, 39, 40, 43], pick up and k 25[26, 27, 28, 29] sts along left front neckline edge. 122[126, 134, 138, 146] sts.
Work 15[17, 19, 21, 23] rows in Corrugated Rib, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: [K1, p1] using MC, [p2 using CC, p2 using MC] to last 2 sts, [p1, k1] using MC. This row forms turning ridge for collar facing.

Work 16[18, 20, 22, 24] more rows in Corrugated Rib. BO all sts tightly purlwise using MC, forming a firm edge.

POCKET EDGINGS
With RS facing and working colors as for Row 1 of collar, pick up and k 34[34, 34, 34, 38] sts for men's version or 26 sts for womens' version along side edge of one front, between pocket markers.

Work 6[6, 6, 6, 8] rows Corrugated Rib, ending with a RS row.

BO all sts purlwise using MC, purling every pair of CC sts together as you do so. This gives a tight edge that will help the pocket opening hold it shape.

Work other pocket edging in the same way.

POCKET LININGS
Each pocket interior is made up of two pieces: a knitted piece, which is visible on the inside of the garment, and a cotton fabric piece, which will be hidden. The cotton fabric is used to reduce the weight and bulk of the pocket.

Fabric Linings:
Cut two pieces of fabric with the following measurements:
Men's versions:
Height: 9[9.5, 9.75, 9.5, 10.25] inches
Width: 7[7.75, 8.25, 9, 9.5] inches

Women's version:
Height: 7 inches
Width: 7[7.75, 8.25, 9, 9.5] inches

Hem edges of linings, using a 0.5 inch hem allowance.

Knitted Linings (Make 2):
Using MC, CO 29[32, 34, 37, 40] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2[4, 5, 3, 5], [p1, k5] 4[4, 4, 5, 5] times, p1, k2[3, 4, 3, 4].
Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1[2, 3, 2, 3], [k1, p5] 4[4, 4, 5, 5] times, k1, p1[3, 4, 2, 4], k1.
These 2 rows set pattern for lining. For men's version, work 40[42, 44, 42, 46] more rows in pattern. For women's version, work 30 more rows in pattern.
BO all sts knitwise.

FINISHING
Fold collar to WS of work and sew BO edge to WS of picked-up sts, leaving first and last inch of collar edge unsewn for zipper insertion.

Sew sleeve seams.
Sew side panels to side edges of fronts, leaving openings between pocket markers. Upper points of side panels will end slightly above and behind corners where fronts meet sleeves. Sew side panels to edges of back. Sew side panels to sleeves at underarms and along shaped raglan edges.

Weave in ends. Block sweater and knitted pocket linings.

Pockets:
Sew edges of each knitted pocket lining to edges of fabric lining, with RS of knitted lining facing fabric lining so that WS of knitted fabric will show on inside of sweater. Leave an opening along the side edge of each pocket, to match pocket openings on sweater.
Sew pockets to pocket openings on WS of work. Position each pocket so that it sits behind a front panel, with its front edge nearly touching front edge of sweater. Fabric lining should be directly against WS of sweater; when worn, knitted lining will be closest to wearer.
Sew edges of pockets linings to edges of side panel.

Zipper:
Pin zipper to WS of sweater fronts, ensuring that edges of sweater and collar line up. Leave enough room between front edges of sweater to ensure that fabric does not interfere with action of zipper. Try on sweater and zip up to ensure correct alignment, and to see how the sweater will hang with the zipper inserted.

Once you are satisfied with zipper placement, backstitch in place using sewing thread, working seam between edge st and adjacent st.
Sew edges of collar in place over zipper tape. Sew edge of pocket lining to edge of zipper tape.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername King Bee is a knitting beekeeper with neither a knitting blog nor a beekeeping blog.

Despite spending a large amount of time admiring twin stashes of wool and honey, King Bee has been known to lurk occasionally on Ravelry.