Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Skein
Title

beauty shot

beauty shot

Tangy

A warm pair of fingerless mittens with a textured fan pattern, reminiscent of the spats [an abbreviation of "spatterdashes"] men wore to cover the tops of their shoes. A touch of Victorian-inspired feather and fan makes these very feminine.

The mittens are knitted flat, and wrapped around the hand. The overlap provides an extra layer underneath the textured flap, preventing the cold autumn winds to blow through the eyelets, and making these mittens especially warm and cozy.

There are 3 sizes. Additionally the structure makes these mittens ultra-flexible in sizing, so that they provide the perfect fit for everybody!

They are perfect for any knitter who prefers flat knitting, or who is new to knitting in the round, since it’s almost entirely knitted flat.

You can show off any of your favorite fingering weight yarns: a solid color yarn will show off the texture of the fan pattern really well, while a variegated yarn will produce a lovely contrast between the upwards knitted mitten body and the sideways knitted flap.

Decorate the mitts with a row of your prettiest buttons, and enjoy wearing them throughout autumn and winter too!
spacer model: Dagmar Mora
spacer photos: Dagmar Mora, Burkhard Schaefer, Sarah Walton


 

SIZE
Women’s S[M, L]

Shown in size S in purple, in size M in green/orange variegated yarn, and in size L in blue/yellow variegated yarn

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Circumference above thumb: 6.5[7.5, 8] inches
Length: 7.25[7.25, 7.25] inches

Note: Since the mittens are wrapped around the hand, the sizing is very flexible and can easily be made to fit hands considerably smaller or larger than the given measurements.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

Purple version
spacer Regia 4ply by Coats [75% New Wool, 25% Polyamide; 230 yd/210 m per 50g skein]; color: “cardinal” #1078; 2 [2, 2] skeins

Variegated versions
spacer Merino Mania 4ply by Fibre Alive [100% NZ Merino; 350 yd/320 m per 100g skein]; shown in colors: “carrot cake” (green/orange) and “summer breeze” (blue/yellow); 1 [1, 1] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
For body:
spacer 1 US #1/2.25mm straight
OR
spacer 1 US #1/2.25mm circular needle

For edging:
spacer 1 39 inch or longer US #1/2.25mm circular needle

For thumb:
spacer 1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles
OR
spacer 1 long US #1/2.25mm circular needle for magic loop
OR
spacer 2 US #1/2.25mm circular needles for two-circulars method

Notions
spacer 28 buttons, approx. diameter 0.375 inches/10mm
spacer 2 stitch markers
spacer Scrap yarn for use as stitch holders

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GAUGE

32 sts/44 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

m1p:  Make 1 stitch purlwise: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch through back loop.
1 stitch increased.
sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise
sl1p: slip one stitch purlwise
slm: slip marker
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front

DIRECTIONS
Right Mitt
Cuff
Using the straight or circular needle as you prefer for working flat, CO 50[54, 58] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 2 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.

Row 7 [WS]: (P11[12, 13], p2tog) 3 times, p9[10, 11], k1, p1. 47[51, 55] sts.
Row 8 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.

Row 13 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1
Row 14 [RS]: P1, (k10[11 ,12], SSK) 3 times, k10[11, 12]. 44[48, 52] sts.
Work Rows 1-2 three times more.

Row 21 [WS]: (P9[10, 11], p2tog) 3 times, p9[10, 11], k1, p1. 41[45, 49] sts.
Row 22 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.

Row 27 [WS]: (P3[4, 4], m1p, p4[4, 5], m1p) 5 times, p4[3, 2], k1, p1. 51[55, 59] sts.

Thumb Gusset
Row 28 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Row 29 [WS]: P12[13, 15], pm, p1[3, 3], pm, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1

Row 30 [RS]: P1, k to first m, slm, m1, k to next m, m1, slm, k to end. 53[57, 61] sts, 3[5, 5] sts between markers.
Row 31 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 32 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Row 33 [WS]: P to first m, slm, m1p, p to next m, m1p, slm, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.  55[59, 63] sts, 5[7, 7] sts between markers.
Row 34 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Row 35 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Rep Rows 30-35 three times more. Rep Rows 30-31 once.  69[73, 77] sts, 19[21, 21] sts between markers.

Hand
Row 56 [RS]: P1, k to first m, slm, slip the 19[21, 21] sts between markers onto a piece of scrap yarn, CO 5 sts over gap, slm, k to end.  55[57, 61] sts, 5 sts between markers.
Row 57 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 58 [RS]: P1, k to first m, slm, SSK, k1, k2tog, slm, k to end. 53[55, 59] sts.

Size S only
Row 59 [WS]: P to m, remove m, p3tog, remove m, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.  51 sts.
Row 60 [RS]: P1, k to end.

Sizes M and L only
Work Rows 1-2, removing markers as you go.

All sizes
Work Rows 1-2 4 times.
Row 69 [WS]: (P8[9, 10], p2tog) 4 times, p9, k1, p1. 47[51, 55] sts.
Slip all sts onto a piece of scrap yarn. Break yarn.

Flap
With RS facing, rejoin yarn and pick up and knit 41 sts evenly distributed along left edge of work. (Tip: to get the right stitch number, pick up about 4 sts for every 7 rows.)

Note: In the first row you will work short rows, to help with the transition from the straight edge to the fan pattern. During this process the decreases should always be worked over the yo and the following stitch.

Row 1 [WS]: (K2, p8, turn work, yo, wyib sl1p, k4, turn work, yo, wyif sl1p, p4, SSP, p2) 3 times, k2. 44 sts, 3 of them yarn overs.
Row 2 [RS]: (K3, [yo, k1] 7 times, yo, k2tog, [yo, k1] 2 times) 3 times, k2. 71 sts.
Row 3 [WS]: (K2, p2tog, p17, SSP) 3 times, k2. 65 sts.
Row 4 [RS]: (K2, SSK, k15, k2tog) 3 times, k2. 59 sts.
Row 5 [WS]: (K2, p2tog, p13, SSP) 3 times, k2. 53 sts.
Row 6 [RS]: (K2, SSK, k11, k2tog) 3 times, k2. 47 sts.
Row 7 [WS]: (K2, p2tog, p9, SSP) 3 times, k2. 41 sts.
Row 8 [RS]: (K3, [yo, k1] 10 times) 3 times, k2. 71 sts.

Rep Rows 3-8 4[5, 5] times more (or to length of your choice). Rep row 3 once more.

Break yarn.

Edging
Return 47[51, 55] live sts from top of hand to the longest circular needle. Join yarn and use the tip of the right hand needle to work as follows:

With RS facing, knit across the 47[51, 55] at the top of the mitt. Pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows from side edge of flap, at top of mitten, starting right next to the stitches on the scrap yarn. Place a marker. Continue across live sts of the flap: (K2, SSK, k15, k2tog) 3 times, k2, place a second marker.  As before, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows from the other side edge of the flap, then pick up knit 50[54, 58] sts – one for every cast on stitch at the bottom of the main mitten body. Turn work.  59 sts between the markers. Tip: If you find it difficult to go around the corners with your needle, try making a loop with the cable at one or both corners, as you would with magic loop knitting.

Row 1 [WS]: K to 1 st before first m, kfb, slm, kfb, (k1, k2tog, k13, SSK, k1) 3 timeskfb, slm, kfb, k to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K to m, k3, (SSK, k11, k2tog, k2) 3 times, k to end.  49 sts between markers.
Row 3 [WS]: K to first m, slm, yo, k3(yo, p2tog, p2, yo, p2tog, p1, SSP, yo, p2, SSP, yo, k2) 3 times, k1, yo, slm, k to end. 51 sts between markers.
Row 4 [RS]: Kto first m, slm, [k1, p1] into next st, k4, (K3, [k1, p1] into next st, k3, [k1, p1] into next st, k7) 3 times, [k1, p1] into next st, slm, k to end  59 sts between markers.
Row 5 [WS]: K to 1 st before first m, kfb, remove m, kfb, k to last st before second m, kfb, remove m, kfb, k to end.
Cast off knitwise.

Thumb
Return 19[21, 21] sts  of thumb from scrap yarn to needles for working in the round.

With RS facing, rejoin yarn at base of thumb and pick up and k 5 sts over cast on sts, and k across thumb sts. 24[26, 26] sts. Distribute across needles as you prefer, and join for working in the round.

Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: SSK, k1, k2tog, k to end.  22[24, 24] sts.

Sizes S and M only:
Rnd 3: Sl1k, k2tog, psso, k to end. 20[22, --] sts.

Size L only
Rnd 3: Knit.

All sizes
Rnd 4: Knit.
Rnd 5: K2tog, k to end. 19[21, 23] sts.
Rnd 6: Purl.
Rnd 7: Knit.
Rep Rnds 6-7 once more. Rep Rnd 6.
Cast off knitwise.

Left Mitt
Cuff
CO 50[54, 58]
Row 1 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.

Row 7 [WS]: P1, k1, p9[10, 11], (p2tog, p11[12, 13]) 3 times. 47[51, 55] sts.
Row 8 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.

Row 13 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end.
Row 14 [RS]: (K10[11, 12], SSK) 3 times, k10[11, 12], p1. 44[48, 52] sts.
Work Rows 1-2 three more times.

Row 21 [WS]: P1, k1, (p9[10, 11], p2tog) 3 times, p9[10, 11]. 41[45, 49] sts.
Row 22 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.

Row 27 [WS]: P1, k1, p4[3, 2], (m1p, p4[4, 5], m1p, p3[4, 4]) 5 times. 51[55, 59] sts.

Thumb Gusset
Row 28 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Row 29 [WS]: P1, k1, p36[37, 39], pm, p1[3, 3], pm, p to end.

Row 30 [RS]: k to first m, slm, m1, k to next m, m1, slm, k to last st, p1. 53[57, 61] sts , 3[5, 5] sts between markers.
Row 31 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end.
Row 32 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Row 33 [WS]: P1, k1, p to first m, slm, m1p, p to next m, m1p, slm, p to end. 55[59, 63] sts , 5[7, 7] sts between markers.
Row 34 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Row 35 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end.
Rep Rows 30-35 three times more. Rep Rows 30-31. 69[73, 77] sts, 19[21, 21] sts between markers.

Hand
Row 56 [RS]: K to first m, slm, slip the 19[21, 21] sts between markers onto a piece of scrap yarn, CO 5 sts over gap, k to last st, p1. 55[57, 61] sts, 5 sts between markers)
Row 57 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end.
Row 58 [RS]: K to first m, SSK, k1, k2tog, k to last st, p1. 53[55, 59] sts.

Size S only:
Row 59 [WS]: P1, k1, p to m, remove m, p3tog, remove m, p to end. 51 sts.
Row 60 [RS]: K to last st, p1.

Sizes M and L only:
Work Rows 1-2 once, removing markers as you go.

All sizes
Work Rows 1-2 4 times.
Row 69 [WS]: P1, k1, p9, (p2tog, p8[9, 10]) 4 times. 47[51, 55] sts.

Break yarn. Slip all sts onto a piece of scrap yarn.

Flap
With RS facing, pick up and knit 41 sts evenly distributed along right edge of work. (Tip: to get the right stitch number, pick up about 4 sts for every 7 rows.)

Finish as for Right Mitt.

Edging
Return 47[51, 55] live sts from top of hand to the longest circular needle:

With RS facing, join yarn and pick up and knit 50[54, 58] sts – one for every cast on stitch at the bottom of the main mitten body; pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows from side edge of flap, at bottom of mitten.  Place a marker. Continue across live sts of the flap: (K2, SSK, k15, k2tog) 3 times, k2, place a second marker. As before, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows from the other side edge of the flap, then knit across the 47[51, 55] live sts from top of hand.  Turn work.  59 sts between the markers.
Finish as for Right Mitt.

Thumb
Work as for Right Mitt.

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FINISHING
Block. You can pin them for shaping, but be careful not to stretch the fan pattern too much, since this would flatten the pretty bumps in the texture.

Sew on buttons to fit, using photos as a guide.

Optional: Sew down the overlap along the top of the mitt, and attach some of the side edge of the overlap on the inside of the mitten. This will make it easier to slip the mitts on and off. You will only need to open the buttons at the cuff.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Dagmar Mora lives in Scotland (Edinburgh), and enjoys nothing as much as knitting gloves and mittens.

See more of her work here.

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