by

For years I swore I had no interest in entrelac. It looked so fiddly and the results always seemed not worth the effort. My first ball of Mini Mochi changed my thinking. I envisioned it in an entrelac hat, which I made and loved. I started playing around with the technique more and have come to appreciate it. It helped that I learned how to knit my rows backwards, right side always facing me, so I didn’t have to turn and purl all those fiddly little sections.

This close-fitting pullover is worked in two sections. First, the entrelac panel is worked from side to side with Mini Mochi.
The main body of the sweater is worked top-down, in one piece, with raglan sleeves. The bodice is worked in rows and sleeves are worked circularly. Waist shaping is worked in center front and center back. The entrelac panel and sweater are blocked before seaming.

This versatile sweater could be worn with dressy slacks or a skirt for work, or over jeans for more casual wear.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 31.5[34, 37.5, 42, 45, 50.5, 54] inches
Length: 25 inches for all sizes
Note: Choose a size with 0-3 inches negative ease. Size may be altered slightly by blocking entrelac panel wider or narrower.

MATERIALS
Yarn
[MC] Louet Gems Merino Sport [100% superwash merino wool; 225yd/203m per 100g skein; color: #42 Eggplant; 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] skeins
[CC] Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi [80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 195yd/178m per 50g ball]; color: #107 Autumn Rainbow; 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles
1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles
1 US #1/2.25mm circular needle, 24 inches or longer
1 US #3/3.25mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
1 set US #1/2.25 mm straight needles (optional)
Note: Longer circular needles recommended for larger sizes.

Notions
Stitch markers
Waste yarn
Yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The entrelac panel in this pattern incorporates 1 selvedge st at each side edge, for ease in finishing. As a result, these directions may look a little different from other entrelac patterns.

A tutorial on entrelac knititng can be found here.

1x1 Rib (worked in the round over an even number of sts):
All Rounds: [K1, p1] to end.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.

DIRECTIONS
Using circular or straight needle(s) in smaller size and CC, CO 82 sts.

P 1 row.

Note: Turn work at end of each row unless otherwise indicated.

FIRST TIER (Base Triangles):
Row 1 [RS]: K2.

Row 2 [WS]: P1, place marker.

Row 3 [RS]: K2.

Even-Numbered Rows 4-14 [WS]: P to marker. Remove marker after working Row 14.

Row 5 [RS]: K3.

Row 7 [RS]: K4.

Row 9 [RS]: K5.

Row 11 [RS]: K6.

Row 13 [RS]: K7.

Row 15 [RS]: K9. First triangle is complete.

Repeat Rows 2-15 nine times more: total of 10 triangles.

Note: If you wish to lengthen or shorten the sweater, work more or fewer base triangles. Each triangle will change the length of the panel by approx. 1.75 inches.

SECOND TIER (Right-Slanting Diamonds and Side Triangles):

Left Side Triangle:
Row 1 [WS]: P2.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, m1, k1.
Row 3 [WS]: P2, p2tog.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k1.
Row 5 [WS]: P3, p2tog.
Even-Numbered Rows 6-14 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Row 7 [WS]: P4, p2tog.
Row 9 [WS]: P5, p2tog.
Row 11 [WS]: P6, p2tog.
Row 13 [WS]: P7, p2tog.
Row 15 [WS]: P8, p2tog. Do not turn work.

Right-Slanting Diamond:
With WS facing, continuing from end of last row worked, pick up and p 8 sts along side edge of triangle from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, p2tog (last st of current diamond purled together with 1 st of triangle from previous tier).
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k7.
Row 2 [WS]: P7, p2tog.
Rows 3-14: Work as for Rows 1-2. Do not turn work after completing Row 14. All sts of triangle from previous tier have been worked.

Work eight more right-slanting diamonds. All sts of triangles from previous tier have been worked; edge st remains unworked.

THIRD TIER (Left-Slanting Diamonds)
Left-Slanting Diamond:
With RS facing, k2; continuing from these sts, pick up and k 7 sts along side edge of right side triangle; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl (last st of current diamond knit together with 1 st of diamond from previous tier, through back loops).

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p7.
Row 2 [RS]: K7, ssk.
Rows 3-14: Work as for Rows 1-2. Do not turn work after completing Row 14.

Next Diamond:
With RS facing, continuing from end of last row worked, pick up and k 8 sts along side edge of diamond from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl (last st of current diamond knit together with 1 st of diamond from previous tier, through back loops).
Continue as for First Diamond.

Work eight more left-slanting diamonds. All sts of previous tier have been worked, except edge st; at end of Row 14 of last diamond, k edge st.

FOURTH TIER
Work as for second tier, picking up sts along side edges of diamonds from previous tier.

Repeat third and fourth tiers 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times more. You will have worked 6[6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8] tiers, including base triangles.

LAST TIER (End Triangles)
First Triangle:
With RS facing, k 2 remaining sts of last triangle of previous tier.
With WS facing, p these 2 sts together.
With RS facing, continuing from st just worked, pick up and k 8 sts along side edge of triangle from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl. 9 sts on right needle.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p8.
Row 2 [RS]: K2tog, k6, ssk.
Odd-numbered Rows 3-13 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Row 4 [RS]: K2tog, k5, ssk.
Row 6 [RS]: K2tog, k4, ssk.
Row 8 [RS]: K2tog, k3, ssk.
Row 10 [RS]: K2tog, k2, ssk.
Row 12 [RS]: K2tog, k1, ssk.
Row 14 [RS]: K2tog, ssk.
Row 15 [WS]: P2tog.

Next Triangle:
With RS facing, continuing from last st of previous triangle, pick up and k 8 sts along side edge of diamond from previous tier; sl last picked-up st to left needle, k2tog tbl.
Continue as for First Triangle.

Work eight more triangles. 2 sts remain: 1 st on right needle, and edge st on left needle. BO remaining st.

Set-up Row [RS]: K1, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k8[8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12], m1, place marker, k1, m1, k30[30, 34, 34, 36, 40, 44], m1, place marker, k1, m1, k8[8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12], m1, place marker, k1, m1, k1. 60[60, 64, 64, 70, 74, 82] sts.
P 1 row.

Next Row [RS]: *K to marker, m1, slip marker, k1, m1; repeat from * three times more, k to end. 8 sts increased.

P 1 row.

Repeat these 2 rows 22[25, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36] times more. 244[268, 272, 296, 318, 346, 378] sts.

Lower Body:
Note: Use backward loop method when casting on sts for underarms.

Dividing Row [RS]: *K to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 56[62, 62, 68, 74, 80, 88] sts (all sts to following marker) on waste yarn for sleeve, remove marker, CO 6[6, 14, 20, 24, 26, 26] sts for underarm; repeat from * once more, k to end. 144[156, 176, 200, 218, 238, 254] sts.

Next Row [WS]: P56[62, 70, 82, 90, 98, 104], place marker, p32[32, 36, 36, 38, 42, 46], place marker, p56[62, 70, 82, 90, 98, 104].

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 2 inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Waist:
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Work 5 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows 4 times more, then work Waist Decrease Row once more. 120[132, 152, 176, 194, 214, 230] sts.

Work 13 rows in stockinette st.

Waist Increase Row [RS]: K2, m1, k to marker, m1, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2.
Work 5 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows 4 times more, then work Waist Increase Row once more. 144[156, 176, 200, 218, 238, 254] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 17[16, 16, 15.25, 14.75, 14, 13.25] inches from underarm (23.5 inches at center back for all sizes), or 1.25 inches less than desired length. Break yarn. Place all sts on waste yarn. Be sure the waste yarn is long enough that the fabric can lay flat and stretch slightly, and tie ends of waste yarn to secure. Sweater body will be blocked with sts on waste yarn.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Next Round: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * -[-, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2] times more, k to last -[-, 8, 12, 8, 12, 12] sts, **ssk, k2; repeat from ** -[-, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2] times more. -[-, 72, 82, 94, 100, 108] sts.

All Sizes:
K 9[9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] rounds.

Note: As written, sleeve will measure 15[15, 15, 16, 16, 16, 16] inches from underarm when completed. To shorten sleeves, work fewer rounds at this point.

Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.

K 7 rounds.

Repeat these 8 rounds 11[11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 12] times more. 38[44, 48, 56, 68, 74, 82] sts. Sleeve measures approx. 14[14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15] inches from underarm; if more length is desired, continue in stockinette st until sleeve measures 1 inch less than desired length.

Cuff:
Using double-point needles in smaller size, work in 1x1 Rib until cuff measures 1 inch. Loosely BO all sts.

Work other sleeve in the same way.

FINISHING
Block entrelac panel so that it measures 18 inches long and 6[6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8] inches wide, ensuring that edges are straight.
Block sweater to measurements shown in schematic.

Pin entrelac panel to front edges of sweater. Align lower edge of panel with lower edge of sweater; upper edge of panel should be 5.5 inches below CO edge of front neckline. Sew panel to front edges of sweater.

Lower Band:
Place held sts of sweater on circular needle in smaller size and join yarn at left side, below left underarm. K held sts to beginning of entrelac panel; pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along lower edge of entrelac panel, k to end of held sts. Place marker to indicate end of round.
Count sts to ensure that you have an even number; decrease 1 st if necessary to obtain an even number.

Work in 1x1 Rib until lower band measures 1.25 inches. Loosely BO all sts.

Neckband:
Using double-point needles in smaller size, beginning at right back corner of neckline with RS facing, pick up and k sts as follows: 1 st in each CO st across back neckline and along upper edge of left sleeve, 3 sts in every 4 rows along left front neckline edge, place marker, 3 sts in every 4 rows across upper edge of entrelac panel, place marker, 3 sts in every 4 rows along right front neckline edge, 1 st in each CO along upper edge of right sleeve to beginning of round. Join to work in the round. Count sts to ensure that you have an even number.

Round 1: *Work in 1x1 Rib to 1 st before marker, S2KP2, removing marker and replacing it to the right of [[S2KP2] just worked; repeat from * once more, continue in 1x1 Rib to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Round 2: *Work in 1x1 Rib to marker, slip marker, k1; repeat from * once more, continue in 1x1 Rib to end of round.
Repeat these 2 rounds until neckband measures 0.75 inch. Loosely BO all sts.

Weave in ends.

Elizabeth Morrison lives and knits in Madison, Wisconsin.

Her patterns have previously appeared in Knitty and Knitcircus magazines. She sells her patterns from her website, sweaterstudio.com, and blogs about her life with too much yarn here.