Japanese knitting + Spice Trail from the East (Ethnic Knitting Adventures): Knitty Deep Fall 2013

by Donna Druchunas

My interest in knitting has been kept alive over the years by the almost infinite variety of color, pattern, and texture that is found in collections of knitters and museums around the world. Although I love the smooth, quiet repetition of knitting a rectangular scarf in garter stitch using a luxurious yarn, it is the endless diversity of technique and style that keeps me interested in knitting as more than a way to keep my hands busy while watching TV.

"It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to."
--from The Lord of The Rings by J.R.R. Tolkien

Japan Style

I've been obsessed with Japanese knitting for a few years now. And clearly, I'm not alone. Classes on understanding Japanese knitting patterns are among my most popular workshops. I can't stop admiring (and buying) Japanese knitting books. I want to use stitches from Japanese stitch libraries in my own designs. I love the consistency and cleanness of Japanese knitting charts, the sparse whiteness of the pages, and the clarity of symbols that are coded representations of the stitches to be knit. The aesthetics of the books and the knitted garments blend elaborate ornament, fine detail, and clean elegance in a way that has a different feeling than design from the West.

Although the patterns are written entirely in Japanese, they are not impossible for English-speaking knitters to read. Very light on text and very heavy on charts and schematics, with a cheat sheet of translations, any adventurous knitter can enter the world of Japanese knitting. Understanding Japanese patterns is based on learning how to follow charts and schematics. Knitting these designs for ourselves often requires learning how to resize a garment. The stitch patterns themselves are complex, because Japanese designers combine many simple elements into very elaborate pattern stitches, but if you understand basic US chart symbols, you're well on your way to learning to follow Japanese knitting charts.

Rumor has it that the Samurai knitted in Japan centuries ago, but it is more likely that knitting came to Japan, as it did to the Americas, in the hands of European missionaries. Whatever the origins of the craft, Japanese knitters have since developed their own meticulous and elegant knitting style that is admired around the world.

Understanding Japanese Patterns
Learning to knit from Japanese patterns does not require learning Japanese. Most of the information can be gleaned from the drawings in the book, but you do need to know a few basics before you can get started. In this column, I am going to introduce you to some of the most basic parts of a Japanese knitting pattern.

Measurements
All measurements on Japanese knitting patterns are in metric. Most measurements are in centimeters, some smaller items are in millimeters. I think it's more convenient to work with metric, but if you find that confusing, the easiest way to convert back and forth is to have a tape measure that has both measurements so you can easily look back and forth without doing any calculations.

Sizing
Japanese patterns are almost always for one size: small! Sometimes they are even designed for extra-small. The biggest challenge in adapting a Japanese pattern to knit for yourself is resizing the garment, especially when complex stitch patterns and shaping are used. Try to identify what the finished measurements are on the garment you want to make before you do anything else, so you can be thinking about what modifications you will have to make for yourself.

Gauge
Gauge is sometimes separated from the rest of the text in a small box or circle, and sometimes it is included with the rest of the general information at the beginning of a pattern. The key to finding the gauge is to look for "10cm" somewhere in the text. Remember, 10cm = 4 inches.

Nearby you will find the stitch and row gauge, which you can identify by these two symbols:

If you see more than one set of numbers listed, it means you are to work a gauge swatch in several different pattern stitches. To identify what stitch pattern is used for the gauge takes a little more sleuthing. You will have to match up the text next to the gauge information to the titles on the charts. Sometimes these are marked by A, B, C and so forth, and sometimes the pattern stitch names are in Japanese characters. You can also use the photo and charts to help identify which stitches are used in which areas on the garment.

Here are the Japanese stitch names for the few stitch patterns that are not usually charted:

Knitting Needle Sizes
U.S. and Japanese knitting needles are sized differently and do not even match the same metric equivalents. This chart matches them up as closely as possible. Sometimes two Japanese sizes are close to the same American size. The larger the needles get, the bigger the differences between Japanese and American sizes. Remember, it's not the exact needle size that is important, but getting the right gauge.

This symbol indicates needle size (the X would be replaced by a number):

You may find this near the gauge info. It will be also on the schematics for the knitted pieces, to indicate what size needle is used to knit each portion of the garment.

U.S. Needle Size	Metric Equivalent (mm)	Japanese Needle Size	Metric Equivalent (mm)
0	2	0	2.1
1	2.25	1	2.4
2	2.75	2	2.7
3	3.25	3	3.0
4	3.5	4	3.3
5	3.75	5	3.6
6	4	6	3.9
7	4.5	7 8	4.2 4.5
8	5	9 10	4.8 5.1
9	5.5	11 12	5.4 5.7
10	6	13	6
10.5	6.5	14 15	6.3 6.6
		7mm	7
		8mm	8
13	9	9mm	9
15	10	10mm	10

The smaller needle sizes are very close to US sizing, but as the needles get larger, the sizes get further and further apart. The largest Japanese needles are only identified by their metric measurements, in millimeters, and they have no sizes.

Yarn
Yarn amounts in Japanese patterns are usually given in grams per ball and number of balls, rather than in meters (yards). Look for something that has a number followed by a g (grams). Sometimes the number of balls is also listed, but not always. Remember, even if you figure out exactly how much yarn is used in the pattern you have, you will probably make a different size and need more yarn than what is listed.

The Garment Schematics
Most people want to knit from Japanese patterns because the designs are exquisite, and often quite elaborate and complex. But to learn to read the patterns, it's best to start with a simple design. There are a few symbols you need to know to help you decipher the schematic drawings, which replace line-by-line knitting instructions in Japanese patterns. You'll notice that the amount of Japanese text is very brief, and is not intended to provide complete instructions for making a garment. So you're not missing much by not being able to read Japanese. It helps to be familiar with the basic shapes of knitted garment pieces, so you can recognize what pieces the drawings represent without having to read the symbols, so to prepare yourself for working from Japanese knitting books, go through the English-language books you have, and begin to examine the schematic drawings.

The Spice Trail from the East cardigan I've designed is inspired by Japanese style and uses a motif I found in one of my Japanese stitch libraries. I've charted the motif and written out the pattern in the familiar English-language style. In a future column, I'll create a sampler scarf designed using stitches from Japanese stitch library and with a visual pattern just like the kinds you find in Japanese pattern books, and we will go through the process of reading the "pattern" together step by step.

Going Further
There's much too much to explain here in one article, but this should get you started. Perhaps we will have a chance to explore this topic together again in the future. For now, here are a few places where you can learn more:

Needle Arts Book Shop carries hard to find Japanese books and has a free PDF a tutorial to help you decipher the pattern schematics.

ABCs of Knitting is a Japanese website on knitting, with some sections in English. This is the most highly regarded source of information for English knitters wanting to learn about Japanese knitting techniques. Has a full glossary of symbols.

Ravelry has links to several free Japanese sock patterns, some with English versions available so you can study the translations, as well as several Japanese knitting book forums.

by Donna Druchunas

This pattern is my idea of what makes Japanese patterns special, on a simplified level (believe it or not!). I've taken two pattern stitches from my Japanese stitch libraries, and worked them into a sweater design in a very detailed and specific way to create a vintage-looking, classicly-styled cropped cardigan with three-quarter length sleeves. A Japanese designer would probably have added additional detail such as bobbles, textural elements or more elaborate finishing to this design.

The hard part came when I had to grade the pattern to create 7 different sizes. Japanese patterns come in one size, small or extra-small, and that's how I designed my original cardigan. To change this design to one larger size, say L or 1X for myself, would have required some thought and patience. Creating seven different sizes that scale up to the standard Craft Yarn Council of America size range that Knitty uses was another matter all together! I originally tried to work out each size the way I would design a sweater in that size only. The results were much too complicated to write a pattern. Working with my tech editor as well as my friend, Susan Crawford, author of A Stitch In Time volumes 1 & 2, we've come up with a design that maintains the structure and style elements of my original idea, with sizing that could be written into a pattern.

model: Cortney Rice

photos: Harrison Stone

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size XS

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[34, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length: 18[19.5, 20.5, 21, 22, 22.7, 23] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Zen Yarn Garden Serenity DK [90% superwash merino, 10% cashmere; 250yd per 100g skein]; color: Red Maple; 4[4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #3/3.25mm straight needles

Notions
3 buttons, approx 3/8 in diameter
sewing needle and matching thread
yarn needle

GAUGE

23 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
28 sts/32 rows = 4 inches over leaf and ribbing pattern
Exact gauge over leaf panel and ribbing is not important. This is a stretchy panel.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Please read all instructions before you begin, as stitch counts change over the Leaf panel, and the Leaf and Rib section is moving at the same time as the armhole shaping is worked.

M1p: make 1 purlwise: Insert tip of left needle from back to front under the bar that runs between the stitch you've just worked and the next st; purl this bar through the front. 1 st increased.

Reverse Stockinette Stitch (rev St st)
RS Rows: Purl.
WS Rows: Knit.

Leaf Panel (shown at right, top)
(Over 1 st, increases to 9)
Note: stitch counts change on every row. Count sts on first row of chart only. Chart revised Sep 15/13 -->

Faux Cable Eyelet Rib (shown at right, bottom)
(Worked over a multiple of 5+2)
Eyelet cable cross: Pass the 3rd st on the left needle over the first 2 sts and drop it off; k1, yo, k1.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
CO 92[102, 112, 122, 132, 142, 152] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K2, [p3, k2] across.
Work 3 rows of Faux Cable Eyelet Rib.

Set up Leaf Panels
Setup row 1 [WS]: Work 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37] sts in est rib, [p3tog, Rib 7, p4, m1p, p4, Rib 7] 3 times, p3tog, Rib 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37]. 87[97, 107, 117, 137, 147] sts.

Setup row 2 [RS]: Work Rib as est for 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37] sts, [work Leaf panel Row 1, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 9, Rib 7] 3 times, work Leaf panel Row 1, Rib 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37].

Work as set until a total of 28 Leaf panel rows are complete, ending when center leaf has 1 st rem. 95[105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155] sts.

Mark the central pattern elements as follows: Count out 2 sts on either side of the central leaf stitch and place markers outside those sts. There should be 5 sts between these markers. Count out another 19 sts from each of these markers: 5 rib stitches, the 9-stitch leaf motif and another 5 rib stitches. Place a marker outside those sts. You should have a total of 43 sts in the center between the outer markers, with 5 sts between the central markers, with 26[31, 36, 41, 46, 51, 56] sts outside the markers on each side.

Divide Panels
Next row [RS]: [Purl to marker, work in pattern as set to next marker] twice, purl to end of row.

Following row [WS]: [Knit to marker, work in pattern as set to next marker] twice, knit to end of row.

Continue working sections outside markers and center section in rev St st and marked panels as est for remainder of back.

Move Leaf and Rib panels out toward shoulders as foll:
Panel-shift row [RS]: Purl to 2 sts before first marker, p2tog, sm, work patt as est to next marker, sm, p1, m1p, purl to 1 st before next marker, m1p, p1, sm, work patt as est to last marker, sm, p2tog, purl to end of row.
Work 3 rows even.

Note: st counts will vary because of the shaping of the Leaf motif, so absolute stitch counts are not given. Read ahead carefully as armhole shaping and pattern are worked concurrently.

Rep last 4 rows 13[15, 16, 18, 18, 20, 21] more times.

Once this is complete, work as follows:
Next row [RS]: [P to marker, work in pattern as set to next marker] twice, p to end of row.
Following row [WS]: [K to marker, work in pattern as set to next marker] twice, k to end of row.

AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 10[10.5, 11, 11, 12, 12.5, 12.5] inches, shape armholes as foll:

Shape Armholes:
BO 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts at beg of next 2 rows.
BO 2[2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] times.

After armhole shaping and panel-shift rows are complete, 2[3, 3, 5, 9, 10, 12] sts rem outside the markers at the armhole edges.

Work even in patts as est until armhole measures 7.5[8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.75, 10] inches.

Shape Neck and Shoulders
Because the stitch count in the Leaf motif is changing, the number of sts in the shoulders varies depending on where you are in the Leaf pattern.

Place markers around the central 31[37, 39, 43, 43, 47, 49] sts. Count the rem sts on each side and divide as evenly as possible by 3. Note number of sts used for each BO.

Next row [RS]: BO one third of right shoulder sts, work to end of row.
Next row [WS]: BO one third of left shoulder sts, work to marker; join new ball of yarn and BO marked center sts to next marker, work to end of row.
Working both sides at once, BO one third of shoulder sts at beg of next 4 rows.

Right Front
CO 47[52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K2, [p3, k2] to end.
Work 3 rows of Faux Cable Eyelet Rib.

Set up Leaf Panels
Note: There are two columns of rib at the center front, at the beg of RS rows. The edge-most 7 sts form the front band.

Setup row 1 [WS]: Work 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37] sts in est rib, p3tog, Rib 7, p4, m1p, p4, Rib 7, p3tog, Rib 12. 44 [49, 54, 59, 64, 69, 74] sts.

Setup row 2 [RS]: Rib 12, work Leaf panel,Row 1, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 9, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 1, Rib 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37].

Work as set until a total of 28 Leaf panel rows are complete, ending when center leaf has 1 st rem,

Next row [RS]: Rib 7 for band, place marker (pm), Rib 5, work Leaf panel as set, Rib 5, pm, purl to end of row. 52[57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82] sts.
Work 1 row even.

Neck Shaping
Move panel out toward shoulders as foll:
Dec row [RS]: Work in patts to second marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to end of row.
Work 3 rows even.

Note: st counts will vary because of the shaping of the Leaf motif, so absolute stitch counts are not given. Read ahead carefully as armhole shaping and pattern are worked concurrently.

Rep last 4 rows 13[15, 16, 18, 18, 20, 21] more times.

AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 10[10.5, 11, 11, 12, 12.5, 12.5] inches, ending with a RS row, shape armholes as for back.

Shape Armholes
BO 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts at beg of next WS row,
BO 2[2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts at beg of next WS row.
Dec 1 st at end of every RS row 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] times.
After armhole shaping and neck dec rows are complete, 2[3, 3, 5, 9, 10, 12] sts rem at armhole side of marker.

Work even in patts as est until armhole measures 7.5[8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.75, 10] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders:
At beg of next 3 RS rows, BO same number of sts as for back shoulders. 7 band sts rem.

Back Neckband Extension
Work in patt as est on rem 7 sts until extension measures approx 3[3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4, 4.25] inches. Put sts on holder; cut yarn, leaving a very long tail– you many need to lengthen or shorten extension slightly at assembly.

Left Front
CO 47[52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K2, [p3, k2] across.
Work 3 rows of Faux Cable Eyelet Rib.

Set up Leaf Panels
Note: There are two columns of rib at the center front at the end of RS rows. The edge-most column is the front band.

Setup row 1 [WS]: Work 12 sts in est Rib, p3tog, Rib 7, p4, m1p, p4, Rib 7, p3tog, Rib 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37]. 44 [49, 54, 59, 64, 69, 74] sts.

Setup row 2 [RS]: Rib 7[12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37], work Leaf panel Row 1, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 9, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 1, Rib 12.

Work as set until a total of 28 Leaf panel rows are complete, ending when center leaf has 1 st rem,

Next row [RS]: P26[31, 36, 41, 46, 51, 56], pm, Rib 5, work Leaf panel as set, Rib 5, pm, Rib 7 (front band). 52[57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82] sts.
Work 1 row even.

Neck Shaping
Move cables out toward shoulders as foll:
Dec row [RS]: Purl to 2 sts before first marker, p2tog, work in patts to end of row.
Work 3 rows even.

Note: st counts will vary because of the shaping of the Leaf motif, so absolute stitch counts are not given. Read ahead carefully as armhole shaping and pattern are worked concurrently.

Rep last 4 rows 13[15, 16, 18, 18, 20, 21] more times.

AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 10[10.5, 11, 11, 12, 12.5, 12.5] inches, ending with a WS row, shape armholes as foll:

Shape Armholes
BO 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts at beg of next RS row.
BO 2[2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts at beg of next RS row,.
Dec 1 st at beg of every RS row 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] times.
After armhole shaping and neck dec rows are complete, 2[3, 3, 5, 9, 10, 12] sts rem at armhole side of the marker.

Work even in patts as est until armhole measures 7.5[8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.75, 10] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders:
At beg of next 3 WS rows, BO same number of sts as for back shoulders. 7 band sts rem.

Back Neckband Extension
Work in patt as est on rem 7 sts until extension measures approx 3[3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4, 4.25] inches. Put sts on hold; cut yarn, leaving a very long tail – you many need to lengthen or shorten extension slightly at assembly.

SLEEVES
CO 47[47, 57, 57, 57, 67, 67] sts.
Place markers around center 33 sts.
Row 1 [WS]: K2, [p3, k2] across.
Work 11 rows of Faux Cable Eyelet Rib.

Set up Leaf Panels
Setup row 1 [WS]: Work Rib as est to marker, p4, m1p, p4, Rib 7, p3tog, Rib 7, p4, m1, p4, rib to end of row.

Setup row 2 [RS]: Work Rib as est to marker, work Leaf panel Row 9, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 1, Rib 7, work Leaf panel Row 9, rib to end of row.

Continue in est patts, working Leaf panels as set and repeating the 18-row pattern.

Work 1 row even.

Inc row [RS]: P1, m1p, work in patt to last st, m1p, p1. 2 sts increased.

Repeat Inc row every RS row 1[4, 4, 6, 6, 0, 0] more times, then every 4th row 13[12, 14, 15, 15, 17, 19] times. 22[24, 31, 34, 34, 35, 37] sts on each side of center panel.

Work even until sleeve measures 11[11.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13, 13.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Cap
BO 5[6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows.

BO 3[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 16[17, 21, 24, 24, 24, 26] sts rem each side of center panel.

Dec 1 st both ends of every RS row 12[16, 18, 20, 20, 9, 22] times.

Dec 1 st both ends of every 4th row 0[0, 0, 0, 0 1, 0] times.

Dec 1 st both ends of every RS row 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 10, 0] times.

BO 2 sts at beg of next 6[4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows.

BO 3 sts at beg of next 2[4, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] rows.

BO rem sts.

FINISHING

Block pieces to measurements.
Sew shoulder seams; ease sleeves into armholes and sew seam starting at shoulder and working out toward underarm, sew underarm and side seams starting at hem and working toward underarm.

With WS facing whip stitch back neck band to back neck, unravelling any unnecessary rows. Join ends of bands with Kitchener stitch or three-needle BO.

Lightly press seams with steam, being careful not to singe yarn or flatten the fabric.

Sew 3 buttons evenly spaced to lower left front band, positioning them so that they are opposite eyelets on right front band. Eyelets function as buttonholes.

Weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Donna Druchunas escaped a corporate cubicle to honor her passions for knitting, world travel, research, and writing. She teaches in the United States in Europe, offers online sock-knitting classes at Craftsy.com, and holds retreats at her studio in Vermont. Her newest project, Stories In Stitches™ is a pattern line featuring stories about knitters and their lives, traditions, history, and travel, all tied together with gorgeous knitting patterns and projects.

Visit Donna's website at sheeptoshawl.com.