Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Chic.a
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Later in the year, as the pages of the calendar are turned over, there comes a day when you fall asleep with your skin still warm from the summer sun and you wake up to a crisp, cool morning. Autumn has arrived. In anticipation of fallen leaves, we get our knitting needles out, and while the days are still to long to bring comfort in chunky, heavy, wool knits our hearts long for the pleasure of soft yarn between our fingers with our needles clicking away. With the autumnal equinox approaching, the Annabella Pullover, with warm alpaca and the sheen from silk, in a sport weight yarn, is a benevolent project for the season.

Often I feel that the back of a garment has completely fallen by the designer's way-side. Our good intentions desire a good first impression as we approach, but do our sentiments change upon departure? I have been unable to find a better word to describe the detailed back section of the Annabella Pullover than a "bib" and I have only chosen this term for if this decorative piece appeared to the front, this would aptly be its name. Regardless, this exquisite detail -- which is carried into the rest of the sweater in different, uniting, applications -- creates a truly timeless look.

The Annabella Pullover embraces a classic silhouette with refined and punctuated details. Knit from the top-down and worked in the round, the raglan seams and blouson waist are followed with a fitted 1x1 twisted ribbing through to mid-hip, creating a flexible fabric that graciously flatters so many figures. The three quarter-length sleeves provide delectable comfort without overbearing warmth. The collar is worked separately, then sewn in, and has hidden shaping through the use of short rows to create natural arcs that gracefully cascade over shoulders. Added to the front of the collar are two buttons with i-cord toggle loops.

Inspired by the quiet moment when you first feel that one season has clicked over to the next, I created the Annabella Pullover in joyful observance of subtle details in the season changing: the first leaves golden at the edges, a cool mist that leaves dew on the whiskers of happy puppies on their way to the park, a breeze at your back that carries the gentle smell of early dusk on the horizon.

For pleasure and for purpose the season for knitting has arrived.

spacer models: Nicole Martinez, Jenny Grantz
spacer photos: Julie LeFrancois
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SIZE
For women's garments: A[B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I]
shown in size D with 2 inches of ease on both models

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32.25 [34.25, 36.25, 38.25, 41, 43.75, 47, 51.75, 55] inches
Length: 22[22.5, 22, 22, 22, 22.75, 24, 24.5, 25.75] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Blue Sky Alpacas Alpaca Silk [50% alpaca/50% silk; 146yd/133m per 50g skein]; color: #137 Sapphire; 7[8, 8, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 24-inch length US #3/3.25mm circular needle
spacer 1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles

Notions
spacer Yarn needle
spacer Stitch markers: 4 to mark raglan, 4 to mark detail sections of the back bib
spacer Cable needle
spacer Waste yarn
spacer Two buttons .5 inches in diameter

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GAUGE

24 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

C4F: Sl 2 to cn and hold in front, k2; k2 from cn. C4B: Sl 2 to cn and hold in back, k2; k2 from cn.
M1L [WS]: [Make 1 Left on WS] Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between next stitch on left needle and last stitch on right needle; purl this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased. M1R [WS]: [Make 1 Right on WS] Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between next stitch on left needle and last stitch on right needle; purl this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

1x1 Twisted Rib
(worked flat; multiple of 2 sts + 1):
Row 1 [RS]: (K1tbl, p1) to last st, k1tbl.
Row 2 [WS]: P1tbl, (k1, p1tbl) to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.

Cable Chart A (12 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Rows 2 & 4 [WS]: K4, p4, k4.
Row 3: K2, p2, C4F, p2, k2.
Rep Rows 1-4 for patt.

Cable Chart B (12 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Rows 2 & 4 [WS]: K4, p4, k4.
Row 3: K2, p2, C4B, p2, k2.
Rep Rows 1-4 for patt.

Note on Toggles:
On the collar opposite the buttons, two toggle loops are created with i-cord. Stitches are picked-up from the seam on the inside of the sweater, where the yoke and the collar have been sewn together. This keeps the collar from pulling when the toggle is fastened around the button. A photo tutorial has been provided.

DIRECTIONS
Yoke
With 24-inch circular needle, CO 93 sts. Do not join.

Next row [WS]: P2 for right front, place seam m, p16 for right sleeve, place seam m, p4 for back, pm, [k4, p4, k4] (set up for Chart B), pm, [p1tbl, (k1, p1tbl) 12 times] (twisted rib panel), pm, [k4, p4, k4] (set up for Chart A), pm, p4 for back, place seam m, p16 for left sleeve, place seam m, p2 for left front.

Raglan inc row [RS]: (Knit to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L) twice, knit to next m, sl m, work Chart A, sl m, work twisted rib to m, sl m, work Chart B, sl m, (knit to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L) twice, knit to end. 8 sts inc'd.

Next row [WS]: (Purl to m, sl m) three times, work Chart B, sl m, work twisted rib to m, sl m, work Chart A, sl m, purl to end.

These two rows set the pattern with raglan increases either side of seam markers.

Begin neck shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, M1L, *patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 10 sts inc'd.

Row 2 [WS]: Work in patt.

Row 3 [RS]: Repeat Raglan inc row. 8 sts inc'd.

Row 4 [WS]: Work in patt.

Rep last 4 rows 3 more times, then rep Rows 1-2 once more. 183 sts: 17 sts for each front, 77 sts for back, 36 sts for each sleeve.

Next row [RS]: *Patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end, cast on 12 sts. 203 sts.

Next row [WS]: (Purl to m, sl m) three times, work Chart B, sl m, work twisted rib to m, sl m, work Chart A, sl m, purl to end, cast on 12 sts. 215 sts: 30 sts for each front, 79 sts for back, 38 sts for each sleeve.

Raglan inc row [RS]: *Patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end. 8 sts inc'd.

Next row [WS]: Work in patt.

Rep last 2 rows 3[7, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11] more times. 247[279, 311, 311, 311, 311, 311, 311, 311] sts.

Sizes A[B] Only:
Sleeve inc row [RS]: *Patt to seam m, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more, knit to end. 4 sts inc'd.

Work 1 row even in patt.

Raglan inc row [RS]: *Patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end. 8 sts inc'd.

Work 1 row even in patt.

Rep last 4 rnds 3[2] more time(s). 295[315] sts.

Note: On following WS row, cease working Charts A and B and twisted rib, replacing these 49 sts with garter st for three rows (starting with a knit row on WS), then cont in St st only over these sts, removing markers for bib after completion.

Neck and sleeve inc row [RS]: K1, M1L, *patt to seam m, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 6 sts inc'd.

Neck inc row [WS]: P1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.

Neck and raglan inc row [RS]: K1, M1L, *patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * three times more, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 10 sts inc'd.

Neck inc row [WS] P1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.

Neck inc row [RS]: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 2 sts inc'd.
Neck inc row [WS]: P1, M1R, purl to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 323[343] sts.

Joining rnd [RS]: Knit to end but do not turn at end of row. CO 3 sts, pm for beginning of rnd and join to work in the rnd. 326[346] sts.

Skip to All Sizes below.

Sizes C[D, E, F, G, H, I] Only:
Note: On following WS row, cease working Charts A and B and twisted rib, replacing these 49 sts with garter st for three rows, then cont in st st only over these sts, removing markers marking bib.

Neck and raglan inc row [RS]: K1, M1L, *patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * three times more, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 10 sts inc'd.
Neck inc row [WS]: P1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.
Rep previous 2 rows 0[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] more times.

Size C Only:
Neck and sleeve inc row [RS]: K1, M1L, *patt to seam m, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more, knit to last st, M1L, k1. 6 sts inc'd.
Neck inc row [WS]: P1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.
Neck and raglan inc row [RS]: K1, M1L, *patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * three times more, knit to last st, M1R, k1. 10 sts inc'd.
Neck inc row [WS]: P1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.

Neck and sleeve inc row [RS]: K1, M1R, *patt to seam m, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more, knit to last st, M1L, k1. 6 sts inc'd.
Neck inc row [WS]: P1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, p1. 2 sts inc'd.
Joining rnd [RS]: *Patt to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end, do not turn. Cast on 3 sts and join to work in the rnd. Pm for beg of rnd. 362 sts.

Skip to All Sizes below.

Sizes D[E, F, G, H, I] Only:
Joining rnd [RS]: *Knit to 1 st before seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end, do not turn. Cast on 3 sts and join to work in the rnd. Pm for beg of rnd.

Raglan inc rnd: (Knit to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L) four times, knit to end. 8 sts inc'd.
Next rnd: Knit.
Rep last 2 rnds 0[3, 7, 12, 18, 23] more times.

All Sizes:
326[346, 362, 378, 402, 434, 474, 522, 562] sts: 97[103, 109, 115, 121, 129, 139, 151, 161] sts for front, 97[103, 109, 115, 121, 129, 139, 151, 161] for back, 66[70, 72, 74, 80, 88, 98, 110, 120] sts for each sleeve.

Work 0[0, 4, 2, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0] rnds even in St st.

Divide sleeves and body:
Next rnd: *Knit to first seam m, remove m, place next 66[70, 72, 74, 80, 88, 98, 110, 120] sts onto holder for sleeve, CO 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] sts, pm for side seam, CO 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] sts; rep from * once more, knit to end. 194[206, 218, 230, 246, 262, 282, 310, 330] sts rem for body.

Body
Next 7[7, 7, 7, 7, 5, 3, 1, 1] rnds: *Knit to m, sl m, p1tbl; rep from * once more, knit to end.
This establishes the pattern for st st body with faux p1tbl side "seams".

Begin waist decreases:
Dec rnd: *Knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m, p1tbl, k1, k2tog; rep from * once more, knit to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Cont in patt, rep Dec rnd every 6[6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4] rnds 8[8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10] more times. 158[170, 182, 194, 206, 222, 242, 266, 286] sts.

Knit 4[4, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, 0] rnds.

Remove beg of rnd marker, knit to next m. This is now the new beg of rnd.

Dec rnd: *P1tbl, k2tog, knit to m; rep from * once more. 156[168, 180, 192, 204, 220, 240, 264, 284] sts.

Dec rnd: *Ssp, k11[12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 21], (k2tog, k11[12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 21]) 5 times, k0[0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 0, 0, 4]; rep from * once more. 144[156, 168, 180, 192, 208, 228, 252, 272] sts rem.

Begin twisted rib:
Next 6 rnds: (P1, k1tbl) around.

Inc rnd: *P1, (k1, yo, k1) all into next st, patt to 1 st before m, (k1, yo, k1) all into next st; rep from * once more. 8 sts inc'd.
Cont in twisted rib patt, rep Inc rnd every 10th rnd 4 more times. 184[196, 208, 220, 232, 248, 268, 292, 312] sts rem.
Work 9 more rnds even in patt.
BO all sts loosely in patt.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
With dpns and RS facing, join yarn at center of underarm, pick up and knit 1[1, 1, 1, 3, 2, 3, 3, 4] sts to held underarm sts, knit across 66[70, 72, 74, 80, 88, 98, 110, 120] held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 1[1, 1, 1, 3, 2, 3, 3, 4] sts to center of underarm, pm, and join to work in the rnd. 68[72, 74, 76, 86, 92, 104, 116, 128] sts.

Next 16 rnds: P1tbl, knit to end.
This establishes the pattern for st st sleeve with faux p1tbl sleeve "seam".

Dec rnd: P1tbl, k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Rep Dec rnd every 16 rnds 3 more times. 60[64, 66, 68, 78, 84, 96, 108, 120] sts rem.
Work 15 rnds even in patt.

Begin twisted rib:
Next rnd: (P1, k1tbl) around.
Rep this rnd until ribbing measures 1.25 inches in length.
BO all sts loosely in pattern.

Collar
Note: The collar is worked one side at a time, starting at the center back neck, from a provisional cast-on. The "right" side of the collar is the side that goes over the right shoulder while wearing, and conversely the "left" side of the collar goes over the left shoulder. When working short row shaping, hide the wrap on proceeding row.

Right Collar
With provisional cast on and waste yarn, using preferred needles for working back and forth, cast on 12 sts.
Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A a total of ten times.

Shape collar for shoulder:
*Short row 1 [RS]: K2, p2, k1, w&t.
Short row 2 [WS]: P1, k4.
Short row 3 [RS]: K2, p2, k3, w&t,
Short row 4 [WS]: P3, k4.

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A.

Rep from * three times more.

Shape collar for front:
*Short row 1 [RS]: K2, p2, k2, w&t,
Short row 2 [WS]: P2, k4.
Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A.
Rep from * three times more.

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A 2 times, then work Rows 1-3 of chart A once more.

Shape corner:
Short row 1 [WS]: K1, w&t.
Short row 2 [RS]: K1.
Short row 3 [WS]: K2, w&t.
Short row 4 [RS]: K2.
Short row 5 [WS]: K3, w&t.
Short row 6 [RS] P1, k2.
Short row 7 [WS]: K4, w&t.
Short row 8 [RS]: P2, k2.
Short row 9 [WS]: K4, p1, w&t.
Short row 10 [RS]: K1, p2, k2.
Short row 11 [WS]: K4, p2, w&t.
Short row 12 [RS]: K2, p2, k2.
Short row 13 [WS]: K4, p3, w&t.
Short row 14 [RS]: K3, p2, k2.
Short row 15 [WS]: K4, p4, w&t.
Short row 16 [RS]: C4F, p2 k2.
Short row 17 [WS]: K4, p4, k1, w&t.
Short row 18 [RS]: P1, k4, p2, k2.
Short row 19 [WS]: K4, p4, k2, w&t.
Short row 20 [RS]: P2, C4F, p2, k2.

Work Row 4 of Chart A across all sts, then rep Rows 1-4 of Chart A 6 times more.
Collar point:
Note: Work decreases into Chart A pattern.

Next row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end of row.
Next row [WS]: Patt to last 3 sts, ssp, k1.
Rep last 2 rows 4 more times.
BO rem 2 sts.

Left Collar
Carefully move 12 sts from provisional CO of Right Collar to needle.
Work Rows 1-4 of Chart B a total of ten times, then work Row 1 once more.

Shape collar for shoulder:
*Short row 1 [WS]: K4, p1, w&t.
Short row 2 [RS]: K1, p2, k2.
Short row 3 [WS]: K4, p3, w&t.
Short row 4 [RS]: K3, p2, k2.
Work Rows 2-4 of Chart B, then work Row 1 of Chart B once more.

Rep from * three times more.

Shape collar for front:
*Short row 1 [WS]: K4, p2, w&t.
Short row 2 [RS]: K2, p2, k2.
Work Rows 2-4 of Chart B, then work Row 1 of Chart B once more.
Rep from * three times more.

Work Rows 2-4 of Chart B, then work Rows 1-4 of Chart B twice more.

Shape corner:
Short row 1 [RS]: K1, w&t.
Short row 2 [WS]: K1.
Short row 3 [RS]: K2, w&t.
Short row 4 [WS]: K2.
Short row 5 [RS]: K2, p1, w&t.
Short row 6 [WS]: K3.
Short row 7 [RS]: K2, p2, w&t.
Short row 8 [WS]: K4.
Short row 9 [RS]: K2, p2, k1, w&t.
Short row 10 [WS]: P1, k4.
Short row 11 [RS]: K2, p2, k2, w&t.
Short row 12 [WS]: P2, k4.
Short row 13 [RS]: K2, p2, k3, w&t.
Short row 14 [WS]: P3, k4.
Short row 15 [RS]: K2, p2, C4B, w&t.
Short row 16 [WS]: P4, k4.
Short row 17 [RS]: K2, p2, k4, p1, w&t.
Short row 18 [WS]: K1, p4, k4.
Short row 19 [RS]: K2, p2, C4B, p2, w&t.
Short row 20 [WS]: K2, p4, k4.

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart B 6 times.

Collar point:
Next row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row [WS]: K1, p2tog, patt to end of row.
Rep last 2 rows 4 times more.
BO rem 2 sts.

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FINISHING
Wash and block sweater.
When blocking, block so that back bib measures 8 inches across (horizontally) and 1x1 twisted ribbing measures the same in height as the St st of the rest of the back.

Wash and block collar to lay flat. Sew collar into the neckline of the yoke. The collar does not cross over at center front; each side of the collar lays parallel to the other.

Sew on buttons to the left side of collar, with the first button 1 inch below the top edge of the collar and the second 3 inches below that.

Toggles
Starting in the seam at the 90 degree corner, pick up 3 sts with DPN.
Row 1: K3, do not turn; slide sts to other end of needle.
Rep this row until i-cord measures 4.5 inches from pick up. K3tog, break yarn and pull tail through to secure final st.

Pick up 3 sts from seam 3 inches below previous i-cord and complete second i-cord as the first.

Note: See photo tutorial at right for further reference.
With a tapestry needle and WS facing (See Step 1)...

...pull i-cord through the collar 2 stitches away from the edge of the collar, where the garter stitch border from the cable patt begins (Step 2).

Fold in half, and pull i-cord back through the collar 1-2 rows apart so that the i-cord cannot be pulled completely to the inside of the sweater (Step 3).

Secure to other end of i-cord. (Step 4).

Repeat for second i-cord toggle (Step 5).

Weave in remaining ends. Using an iron on the coolest setting, gently press corners of collar to lay flat.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Born and raised in Northern California, Julie was taught to knit by her sister over New Year's in 2010 on a family trip to Lake Tahoe. Now a proud new mother, she spends most of her free time with knitting needles in hand. In what little time she has left, she runs a small paperie, creating invitations and announcements. Julie loves to cook.

Her most interesting job was at the San Francisco Zoo, where she got to help socialize baby penguins. Her favorite fruit is the yellow nectarine.

Her website is featherpressknits.com

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