Briargate jacket : Knitty.com

by Nancy Totten

I was inspired to make this when my favorite fall jacket (not knit) became unusable after many years of wear. I thought "why not knit a jacket to replace it?" So that is what I did, using some of the features that I loved about the jacket.

The Briargate Jacket has pockets and buttons up the front. It is worked from the bottom up in one piece to the underarms. At this point, the jacket fronts and back are worked separately. The sleeves are worked separately and sewn in when finishing the jacket. The collar is worked last, using a collar "stand" (as seen on jackets and some shirts) created by knitting through the back loop for a few short rows before working the collar stitches.

model: Heidi Beier

photos: Nancy Totten


SIZE XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] shown in size M with 2 inches of positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust circumference: 31.5[34.25, 37.25, 41.75, 46, 50.25, 53.25] inches (buttoned)
Length: 21[21.5, 22.5, 23.25, 23.75, 24.25, 24.75] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Sincere Sheep Equity Sport (100% Ramboillet Wool, 200yd/183m per 57g skein); color Virid: 7[8, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #6/4mm needle

Notions
5 stitch holders or waste yarn
2 stitch markers
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts/28 rows = 4" in pattern stitch, after blocking

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Keep pattern correct when working body and sleeve shaping, working decreases and increases into pattern stitch. Pattern stitch repeats will not initially fit evenly into sleeves – keep pattern consistent.

chart Pattern Stitch
(multiple of 8 sts + 5):
Row 1 [RS]: K5, *p3, k5; rep from * to end.
Row 2 [WS]: P5, *k3, p5; rep from * to end.
Rows 3-4: Rep Rows 1-2.
Row 5: K1, *p3, k5; rep from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1.
Row 6: P1, *k3, p5; rep from * to last 4 sts, k3, p1.
Rows 7-8: Rep Rows 5-6.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

One-Row Buttonhole (worked over 6 sts): Sl1 knitwise, bring yarn in front, sl1, pass first slipped st over second slipped st and off RH needle. *Sl1, pass the previous slipped st over the second slipped st; rep from * twice more. Sl1 from RH to LH needle. Turn work and CO 5 sts using cable or knitted cast-on. Turn work. Sl1 from LH to RH needle and pass the last cast-on st over the newly slipped stitch.

DIRECTIONS
POCKET LININGS (Make 2)
Cast on 30 sts.
Beg with a knit row, work in St st for 5 inches.
Break yarn and place sts on holder.

BODY
Cast on 197[213, 229, 253, 277, 301, 317] sts.

Set up row [RS]: K49[53, 57, 63, 69, 75, 79], pm, k1, pm, k97[105, 113, 125, 137, 149, 157], pm, k1, pm, k49[53, 57, 63, 69, 75, 79].

Knit 7 rows.

Begin pattern and placing buttonholes:
Buttonhole row [RS]: K2, work one-row buttonhole, work Pattern Stitch to last 8 sts, k8.
Next row [WS]: K8, work Pattern Stitch to last 8 sts, k8.
These rows establish the pattern, with Body in Pattern Stitch and 8 sts in garter stitch each end of row.

Cont in pattern, working buttonhole on 11th row of Pattern Stitch, then every following 10th row until work measures 6.25 inches from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Note: Continue to work buttonholes every 10th row as set until neck sts have been placed on holder.

Insert pockets:
Pocket insert row [RS]: Patt 17[18, 20, 24, 26, 29, 31], place next 30 sts of Body on holder. Work Stitch Pattern across 30 held sts of first pocket. Return to Body sts and patt to last 47[48, 50, 54, 56, 59, 61] sts, place next 30 sts of Body on holder. Work Stitch Pattern across 30 held sts of second pocket, patt to end of Body.

Work even in patt until piece measures 7 inches from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Shape body:
Decrease row [RS]: *Patt to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, k1, sl m, k2tog; rep from * once more, patt to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Work 7 rows even in patt.
Rep last 8 rows three times more. 181[197, 213, 237, 261, 285, 301] sts.

Work even in patt until piece measures 13.5 inches from cast-on edge or desired length to armholes, ending after a WS row.

Separate Back and Fronts:
Next row [RS]: *Patt to 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7] sts before m, BO 9[9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 15] sts (removing markers); rep from * once more, patt to end. Place sts for Right Front and Back on holder or waste yarn and continue on 41[45, 48, 54, 60, 65, 68] sts for Left Front as follows.

Left Front
Shape armhole:
Next row [WS]: Patt to end.
Next row [RS]: BO 3 sts, patt to end. 38[42, 45, 51, 57, 62, 65] sts.

Next row [WS]: Patt to end.
Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to end. 1 st dec'd.
Rep last 2 rows 2[1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8] times more. 35[40, 41, 46, 51, 54, 56] sts rem.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 6[6.5, 7.25, 8, 8.5, 8.75, 9.25] inches, ending after a WS row.

Shape neck:
Next row [RS]: Patt to last 8 sts and place last 8 sts of row on holder, turn. 27[32, 33, 38, 43, 46, 48] sts rem.

Next row [WS]: BO 3 sts, patt to end.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 1] time more. 24[29, 30, 35, 40, 40, 42] sts.

Next row [WS]: BO 2 sts, patt to end.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 0[1, 0, 1, 1, 0, 0] times more. 22[25, 28, 31, 36, 38, 40] sts.
Next row [WS]: BO 2 sts, patt to end. 20[23, 26, 29, 34, 36, 38] sts.

Neck decrease row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st dec'd.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 1[0, 2, 1, 1, 2, 2] times more. 18[22, 23, 27, 32, 33, 35] sts rem.
Armhole measures approx. 7.5[8, 9, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25] inches. Place sts on holder.

Right Front
Note: Remember to continue to work buttonholes as established until 8 band sts are placed on holder.

With WS facing, return 41[45, 48, 54, 60, 65, 68] sts held for Right Front to needles.

Shape armhole:
Next row [WS]: BO 3 sts, patt to end. 38[42, 45, 51, 57, 62, 65] sts.
Next row [RS]: Patt to end.

Next row [WS]: Patt to end.
Next row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 1 st dec'd.
Rep last 2 rows 2[1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8] times more. 35[40, 41, 46, 51, 54, 56] sts rem.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 6[6.5, 7.25, 8, 8.5, 8.75, 9.25] inches, ending after a RS row.

Shape neck:
Next row [WS]: Patt to last 8 sts and place last 8 sts of row on holder, turn. 27[32, 33, 38, 43, 46, 48] sts rem.

Next row [RS]: BO 3 sts, patt to end.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 1] time more. 24[29, 30, 35, 40, 40, 42] sts.

Next row [RS]: BO 2 sts, patt to end.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 0[1, 0, 1, 1, 0, 0] times more. 22[25, 28, 31, 36, 38, 40] sts.
Next row [RS]: BO 2 sts, patt to end. 20[23, 26, 29, 34, 36, 38] sts.

Work 1 row even in patt.
Neck decrease row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec'd.
Rep last 2 rows 1[0, 2, 1, 1, 2, 2] times more. 18[22, 23, 27, 32, 33, 35] sts rem.
Armhole measures approx. 7.5[8, 9, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25] inches. Place sts on holder.

Back
With WS facing, return 81[89, 95, 107, 119, 129, 135] sts held for Back to needles and join yarn.

Cont in patt, BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 75[83, 89, 101, 113, 123, 129] sts.

Next row [WS]: Patt to end.
Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Rep last 2 rows 2[1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8] times more. 69[79, 81, 91, 101, 107, 111] sts rem.

Cont even in patt until Back measures 7.5[8, 9, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25] inches or same as Fronts to shoulder. Place center 33[35, 35, 37, 37, 41, 41] sts of Back on holder for back neck, then join each shoulder using 3-needle bind off.

SLEEVE (Make 2)
CO 41[43, 45, 45, 49, 51, 53] sts.
Knit 8 rows.

Begin pattern and sleeve increases:
Increase row [RS]: K1, M1, work Pattern Stitch to last st, M1, k1. 2 sts inc'd.
Cont in patt, rep Increase row every foll 6[6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 14[14, 16, 20, 21, 24, 26] times more, working increases into pattern. 71[73, 79, 87, 93, 101, 107] sts.

Cont even in patt until sleeve measures 16.5 inches from cast on, ending after a WS row.

Shape sleeve cap:
Cont in patt, BO 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7] sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of foll 2 rows. 57[59, 63, 71, 77, 83, 87] sts.

Decrease row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 2[1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8] times more. 51[55, 55, 61, 65, 67, 69] sts.

Decrease row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Work 3 rows even in patt.
Rep last 4 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 4, 2, 3] times more. 49[53, 53, 59, 55, 61, 61] sts.

Decrease row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 8[9, 8, 9, 1, 4, 3] times more. 31[33, 35, 39, 51, 51, 53] sts.

Cont in patt, BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2[4, 6, 6, 0, 0, 0] rows, then 3 sts at beg of foll 4[4, 4, 4, 12, 10, 10] rows. BO 15[13, 11, 15, 15, 21, 23] remaining sts.

FINISHING

Pocket Edging
Place 30 sts from holder on needles and knit 8 rows. Bind off.

Repeat for other pocket.

Collar
With RS facing, knit 8 sts tbl from Right Front holder, pick up and knit 1 st for every BO st across neck, 3 sts for every 4 rows to shoulder seam, 1 st in every BO st across Back Neck, 3 sts for every 4 rows to Left Neck BO sts, 1 st in each BO st to holder, then knit 8 sts tbl from Left Front holder.

Row 1 [WS]: Purl all sts tbl.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 4, knit all rem sts tbl.
Row 3: BO 4, purl all rem sts tbl.
Row 4: Knit tbl to last 6 sts, w&t.
Row 5: Purl tbl to last 6 sts, w&t.
Row 6: Knit tbl to end, picking up and working wrap with wrapped st.
Row 7: Purl tbl to end, picking up and working wrap with wrapped st.

Row 8 [RS]: K3, M1, knit to end.
Repeat last row 18[18, 18, 24, 24, 28, 28] times more. Bind off all sts.

Block to measurements. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve seams. Attach buttons opposite buttonholes and sew on pocket linings to WS of body. Weave in all ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Nancy Totten grew up in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina where she learned to knit from her mother and grandmother. She left the craft and returned to it a few times as her life changed. She began designing for herself and others about five years ago. She now lives and designs in Colorado Springs, CO.

You'll find her here on Ravelry.