This halter design came to me during the countless hours of walking my second born for naps this past spring. We wandered back and forth along Greifswald's looping medieval city wall, which was so lovely as the trees budded and flowers bloomed. I mimicked our daily stroll in the construction of the halter, which is worked back and forth in short rows and around a hair-pin loop shaped cast on. Spaziergang mit Emil* is seamlessly worked in garter stitch with no grafting. It is cast on center front and worked flat out to the sides in one piece. Optional bust darts are included and can be added according to cup size. *"A walk with Emil"
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model: You-Shan Feng photos: Tiana Dodson, Molly Mandje, Lisa Chemery |
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SIZE To select size, measure the circumference at the full bust (see chest measurements below). If you are between sizes, I would select the smaller size. To select bust darts, measure both the circumference at the full bust as well as the rib cage below the bust (see bust darts instructions). |
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS |
MATERIALS Notions |
GAUGE |
PATTERN NOTES |
Because this halter is worked sideways, row gauge in garter is very important to match in order to obtain the correct sizing. Positive ease is built into the stretchy garter fabric. If you desire a snugger fit, work fewer rows in the two back sections. To work a wrap and turn (w&t) in garter, k to the point indicated in pattern, bring yarn to front between the needles, slip the next st from left to right needle, bring yarn to back between the needles and slip the st back to the left needle. Turn work and bring yarn to the back of the work between the needles. You don't need to pick up any wraps in this project. The cast on is a little tricky to work. See the video tutorial below for assistance. Bust Darts
For Sizes XS, S, with cup size C, D, DD/E, Sizes M, L, 1X, with cup size C, D, DD/E, F, G and Sizes 2X, 3X with all cup sizes, proceed as follows:
For Sizes XS, S, with cup size F, G & H, and Sizes M, L, 1X, with cup size H, proceed as follows:
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DIRECTIONS Hold two strands of yarn together and make a slip knot, leaving a 4-6 inch tail. Loop the slip knot onto needle. Designate one strand as yarn tail (attach a safety pin or removable marker). The other is the working yarn. Using long-tail cast on, not counting the slip knot, CO 89[94, 100, 104, 112, 116, 120] sts (see below). Place marker (designated as m2-R) and CO one more st. These stitches will form the halter/straps portion of the vest. Bring the two ends of the circular needle together with sts about evenly distributed on each side (as for setting up for Magic Loop) and moved toward the ends of the needles. Position so that needle tips are facing left and the needle with the marker is on top. Place a second marker (designated m2-L) on the lower needle. You have been working before with the yarn tail on the thumb and the working yarn on the pointer finger. Switch their positions so that the tail is on the pointer finger and the working yarn on the thumb. The st after m2-R is the first st for Judy's Magic cast on.
Using Judy's Magic cast on, CO so that after the markers, there are 45[45, 44, 43, 42, 41, 39] sts on each needle, or 90[90, 88, 86, 84, 82, 78] sts total (this total includes that extra st created with the Long Tail CO). If you are working bust darts, you need to CO more sts here, so make sure to do so before moving on to the next step. You should now have something that looks like the photo below: 179[184, 188, 190, 196, 198, 198] sts total — not including extra sts required for bust shaping. Break the "tail" yarn and turn work. WS is now facing and you should see a line of purl bumps. Move working yarn around the right side of the yarn tail and between the needles to the back.
Pull bottom needle out and start working instructions for the set-up.
Part 2: Set-up For the set-up, you will work first half of magic CO sts to m2-R, then all the long-tail CO sts to m2-L, and then the second half of the magic CO sts, placing the m1-R and m1-L markers as you go (see diagram below). For some of the sizes, you will also work some short rows during the set-up. Set-up row [WS]: K9 tbl, pm (designated m1-R), k35[35, 34, 33, 32, 31, 29] tbl, you are now at the last long-tail CO st, k that st through the front loop, sl m2-R and STOP. Note: How you complete the row depends on the size you are making. Identify the instructions for your size and continue: Sizes S, L, 1X & 3X ONLY: Next row [WS]: K to m2-R, k to 2 sts past the previously wrapped st, w&t. Repeat the last two rows –[2, –, 2, 4, –, 0] more times. All sizes continueContinue set-up row [WS]: K to m2-R, k89[94, 100, 104, 112, 116, 120]. You are now at the slip knot where the long-tail cast on started. Drop the slip-knot from the needle and sl m2-L. You will continue onto the second half of the magic CO sts. You will making a loop with the long-tail CO sts anchored on either side by the magic CO sts. This is a little like joining to work in the round, so you want to make sure that your long-tail CO sts are not twisted as you start working the rest of the sts after the join. Sizes S, L, 1X & 3X ONLY: Next row [WS]: K to m2-L, k to 4 sts before the previously wrapped st, w&t Repeat the last two rows –[2, –, 2, 4, –, 0] more times. Next row [WS]: K to m2-L, -[36, -, 34, 33, -, 30], pm (designated m1-L), k9. Turn work, ready to start an RS row. Attach a removable marker or safety pin to mark the RS of work. The set-up is finished, and when RS is facing, you should have something that resembles the diagram above..
Part 3: Front Section-L-1 (left side section) Sizes XS & S ONLY All sizes All sizes EXCEPT for 1X All sizes Section-R-1 (Right side section): Sizes XS & S ONLY All sizes All sizes EXCEPT for 1X All sizes Work Section-L-1 and then Section-R-1 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] more times. Important note: You have worked half of the front. The second half will be worked almost the same except for a few details. If you are working bust darts, you will start decreases on the next row. See Pattern Notes. Section-L-2 (left side section) Sizes XS & S ONLY All sizes All sizes EXCEPT for 1X All sizes Section-R-2 (Right side section): Sizes XS & S ONLY All sizes All sizes EXCEPT for 1X All sizes Work Section-L-2 and then Section-R-2 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] more times.
Part 3: Sides Size S only: Size M only: Size L only: Size 1X only: Size 2X only: Size 3X only: Row 10 [WS]: Slp 1 wyif, k to 6 sts past m1-R, w&t. All sizes: Loosely bind off from the next st to m2-L. Remove m2-L and bind off one more st. You should have bound off 89[94, 100, 104, 112, 116, 120] sts. K to end, removing all markers (working 45[45, 44, 43, 42, 41, 39] sts). There should be 45[45, 44, 43, 42, 41, 39] sts on each side. Do not break yarn. Turn work to continue working left back.
Part 4: Left Back Repeat these two rows 3[3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1] more times. 37[37, 36, 37, 36, 35, 35] sts. Next row [RS]: Slp1 wyif, k to end. Repeat these four rows 3[3, 2, 3, 2, 1, 1] more times. 33 sts rem. Work another 18[26, 30, 42, 48, 60, 74] rows of garter (with slipped edge as set), ending with WS row. Work button band in seed stitch as follows: Row 1 [RS]: Slp 1 wyif, [p1, k1] to end. Bind off all sts in pattern and break yarn. Part 5: Right Back Row 1 [RS]: Slp 1 wyif, k1, k2tog, k to 4 sts before end, k2tog, k2. 2 sts decreased. Repeat these two rows 3[3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1] more times. Next row [RS]: Slp1 wyif, k to end. Repeat these four rows 3[3, 2, 3, 2, 1, 1] more times. 33 sts. Work another 18[26, 30, 42, 48, 60, 74] rows of garter (with slipped edge as set), ending with WS row. Next 5 rows, work seed stitch edging: Slp 1 wyif, [p1, k1] to end. Bind off in pattern and break yarn. |
FINISHING |
ABOUT THE DESIGNER |
You-Shan lives, works and plays in Greifswald, Germany, where her yarn stash will soon consume the Baltic Sea like The Blob. You can find her on Ravelry. |
Pattern & images © 2015 You-Shan Feng. Contact You-Shan |