Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

My husband is obsessed with all things nautical; pirates are especially interesting for him, and also Vikings. Over our decade long marriage, I too have been initiated into the world of piracy, pillaging, and adventure. So not too surprisingly, he introduced me to the Vikings TV show airing on the History Channel and we've been die-hard fans since day one.

That's where the inspiration for these socks was gleaned, not from the twisting braids of the shield maiden's hair, or the bloodthirsty lustiness of their king, but from their crazy boat building side-kick of sorts, Floki. He's a brilliant, gifted engineer, a visionary years ahead of his time. I wanted to design something that reflected his personality and personal style. His clothes are tattered, almost lacy, yet completely masculine and fierce.

These socks, just like the man, are streamlined, designed to be impressive yet simple in their execution. The texture pattern is easy to memorize but just difficult enough to keep you entertained and has the added bonus of showcasing even wild variegated yarns with ease.

The leg stretches vertically to extend up just below the knee when worn, despite being much shorter when unworn. The lace gives both vertically and horizontally for increased stretch and flexibility. This design feature partnered with decreases worked throughout the leg creates a truly tapered fit that keeps the sock in place without the need of a ribbed cuff or elastic. The gusset decreases have been moved from their traditional location to the top of the foot, removing all uncomfortable seams and giving a streamlined finish to the foot. Like Floki, these socks are just crazy enough to be a special kind of awesome.

spacer model: Yavanna Reynolds
spacer photos: Jeffrey Reynolds and Yavanna Reynolds
 

SIZE
S[M, L, XL]
shown in size M

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Cuff Circumference: 9.5[11, 12.25, 13.75] inches relaxed and 13[15, 17, 19] inches at maximum stretch.

Leg Circumference (at mid-calf): 7.75[9, 10.25, 11.5] inches relaxed and 11[13, 15, 17.5] inches at maximum stretch

Leg Circumference (at ankle): 6.5[7.5, 8.75, 10] inches relaxed and 8.33[10, 11.67, 13.33] inches at maximum stretch

Foot Circumference: approximately 5.8[7, 8, 9.33] inches when relaxed 8.33[10, 11.67, 13.33] inches at maximum stretch

Leg Length: 11 inches relaxed and 16 inches stretched from cuff to heel.

Foot Length: adjustable to fit. Minimum length is 7.5 inches (US children's size 13, Euro size 31)

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Malabrigo Yarn Arroyo [Superwash Merino Wool; 335 yd/305 m per 100g skein]; color: 121 Marte; 2[2, 2, 2] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #2/2.75 mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 short circulars

Notions
spacer markers
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GAUGE
28 sts/42 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
23-24 sts/44 rounds = 4 inches in Leg Pattern

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Wyif: with yarn in front

Yo
(Yarn over, wrapping yarn twice):
Extra wrap should be dropped on the following round.

Instructions for grafting can be found here.

All stitches are slipped knitwise.


DIRECTIONS

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Cuff
CO 56[64, 72, 80] sts. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Work in St st until cuff measures 1 inch from the CO edge.

Next round: Purl.

Leg
Begin working from Leg Pattern chart, working 2-st repeat 27[31, 35, 39] times before working the last two sts.

After completing all 22 rounds of the chart, repeat rounds 1-21 once more.

Next round: (P5[6, 7, 8], p2tog) 8 times around. 48[56, 64, 72] sts.

Work chart rounds 1-22, working 2-st repeat 23[27, 31, 35] times before working the last two sts.

Work chart rounds 1-21 again.

Next round: (P4[5, 6, 7], p2tog) 8 times around. 40[48, 56, 64] sts.

Work chart rounds 1-22 again, working 2-st repeat 19[23, 27, 31] times before working the last two sts.

Your leg should now measure approximately 10" long, relaxed, from the cast on edge.

Heel
The heel will be worked over the last 20[24, 28, 32] sts of the round while the remaining 20[24, 28, 32] sts will be reserved for the Instep.

Turn so that WS is facing.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p19[23, 27, 31], turn.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k19[23, 27, 31], turn.
Row 3 [WS]: Sl1, p19[23, 27, 31], turn.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl1, (sl1 wyif, p1) 9[11, 13, 15] times, p1, turn
Row 5 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, (sl1, k1) 9[11, 13, 15] times, k1, turn
Row 6 [RS]: Sl1, (sl1 wyif, p1) 9[11, 13, 15] times, p1, turn
Row 7 [WS]: Sl1, p19[23, 27, 31], turn.
Row 8 [RS]: Sl1, k19[23, 27, 31], turn.
Row 9 [WS]: Sl1, p19[23, 27, 31], turn.
Row 10 [RS]: Sl1, p19[23, 27, 31], turn.

Work Rows 1-10 a total of 1[2, 2, 2] times, then work Rows 1 through 9[1, 3, 5] one more time. Your heel flap should now measure approx. 2[2, 2.25, 2.5] inches long and you should be ready to work a RS row.

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Heel Turn
Size S
Row 1
[RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1wyif, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.

You should now have 14 heel sts.

Size M
Row 1
[RS]: Sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.

You should now have 16 heel sts.

Size L
Row 1
[RS]: Sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.

You should now have 18 heel sts.

Size XL
Row 1
[RS]: Sl1, k18, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.

You should now have 20 heel sts.

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Gusset
Setup Round 1: K across all 14[16, 18, 20] heel sts. Pick up and knit 15[17, 19, 21] sts along the side of the heel flap. Knit across all 20[24, 28, 32] instep sts. Pick up and knit 15[17, 19, 21] sts along the side of the heel. K7[8, 9, 10]. This is the new start of round. Redistribute sts and place marker as desired. 64[74, 84, 94] sts total.

Setup Round 2: K19[23, 27, 31]; this is the start of the instep (redistribute sts and place marker as desired); k26[28, 30, 32] sts; this is the end of the instep (redistribute sts and place marker as desired); k19[23, 27, 31] to end of round.

Note: Gusset shaping is worked at the ends of the instep, not in the usual place! As these sts are decreased away, you may wish to place markers or rearrange sts to help you keep your place.

Gusset Round 1: K to start of instep; ssk, k to 2 sts before end of instep, k2tog; k to end of round. 2 sts decreased.

Gusset Round 2: K to start of instep; k1, p1, (sl1 wyif, p1) to 2 sts before end of instep, p1, k1. K19[23, 27, 31] to end round.

Gusset Round 3: K to start of instep; ssk, (p1, sl1 wyif) to 2 sts before end of instep, k2tog. K to end of round. 2 sts decreased.

Gusset Round 4: K to start of instep; k1, (sl1 wyif, p1) to 1 st before end of instep, k1. K to end of round.

Gusset Round 5: K to start of instep; ssk, k to 2 sts before end of instep, k2tog. K to end of round. 2 sts decreased.

Gusset Round 6: Knit around.

Gusset Round 7: K to start of instep; ssk, k to 2 sts before end of instep, k2tog. K to end of round. 2 sts decreased.

Gusset Round 8: K to start of instep; k1, p to 1 st before end of instep, k1. K to end of round.

Gusset Round 9: K to start of instep; ssk, k to 2 sts before end of instep, k2tog. K to end of round. 2 sts decreased.

Gusset Round 10: K19[23, 27, 31]; k1, p to 1 st before end of instep, k1. K to end of round.

Work Rounds 1-10 a total of 2[2, 2, 3] times, then work Rounds 1 through 3[5, 7, -] one more time. 40[48, 56, 64] sts total. 2 sts rem on the instep.

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Foot
Setup: K10[12, 14, 16]. This is the new start of round. Redistribute sts and place marker as desired. The first 20[24, 28, 32] sts form the instep; the rem 20[24, 28, 32] sts form the sole.

Continue working in stockinette st until your foot measures approximately 3 inches shorter than desired final length.

Toe
Round 1: P across instep; k to end of round.

Rounds 2-4: K all.

Round 5: (Sl1 wyif, P1) across instep; k to end of round.

Round 6: (p1, sl1 wyif) across instep; k to end of round.

Round 7: Repeat Round 5.

Rounds 8-10: Repeat Rounds 2-4.

Round 11: Repeat Round 1.

Round 12: K1, ssk; k to 3 sts before end of instep; k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased.
Round 13: K all.

Repeat Rounds 12 and 13 4[5, 6, 7] more times, until 20[24, 28, 32] sts remain. Divide sts evenly between two needles, placing 10[12, 14, 16] sole and 10[12, 14, 16] instep sts on one needle each.

Using Kitchener stitch, graft toe closed.

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FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Do not block.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Yavanna Reynolds is a part-time designer and full-time mom living and playing in the beautiful San Francisco Bay Area with her very own personal Viking and two mischievous imps. When she isn't designing something new, Yavanna enjoys baking, reading, sewing, and exploring the outdoors with her family.

To learn more about her adventures in fiber, fabric, food, and endurance sports, check out her blog. You can also find her on Ravelry in her group: Watch Datenshi Design

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