by Laura Chau

Rail Yard is a curvy cardigan that's warm and cozy in Lorna's Laces Cloudgate! This multi-plied yarn has fantastic stitch definition, so it's perfect for texture and cable patterns. I've always wanted to use this chain link cable from Barbara Walker's A Fourth Treasury of Knitting Patterns, and this was the perfect opportunity. The body incorporates double moss stitch panels at the center front and back, and the cable twists alternate around the body for pleasing symmetry. Lots of waist shaping at the sides and back show off your waist (or create the look of one)!

The body is worked from the bottom-up in one piece to the underarm, then divided for the upper back and fronts. The long set-in sleeves, featuring double moss stitch cuffs and a center chain link cable panel, are worked flat and seamed. The super cushy ribbed collar is picked up from the neck and worked back and forth, then folded to the inside and seamed for a double layer of warmth. Simple ribbed buttonbands are picked up through both layers of the collar to close it up, and large simple buttons finish things off.

Don't be put off by the two cable needles required for the cables! The crosses themselves are easy and are worked only every 8th row. I used two cable needles of slightly different diameters, so that I could always keep track of CN1 and CN2 by feel as well as sight.

I'm modeling a size with about 3 inches of negative ease with a thin underlayer for a fitted look, but if you want more room for layering, just pick the size closest to your bust size or a bit larger.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
Shown in size M with 3 inches of negative ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Finished Bust (buttoned): 33.25[36.5, 39.25, 42.25, 45, 47.75, 51.5, 56.25] inches
Length: 25[25.5, 26, 26.25, 26.75, 27, 27.5, 27.75] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Lorna's Laces Cloudgate [90% superwash merino wool, 10% nylon; 120 yd/109m per 100g skein]; color: Sandstorm; 9[10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 32-inch or longer US 10.5/6.5mm circular needle
1 24-inch US 10/6mm circular needle (for buttonbands and collar)

Notions
10 stitch markers
waste yarn
2 cable needles (preferably different from each other)
10 buttons approx. 1.5 inches in diameter
yarn needle

GAUGE
14 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch with larger needles
16 sts/24 rows = 4" in double moss stitch with larger needles
13 sts of Chain Link Cable = 2.5" wide with larger needles

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

CN1: Cable needle 1
CN2: Cable needle 2
mA (B, C, etc.): Notes named markers (mA is marker A, mB is marker B, etc.).

Right Cross Chain (panel of 13 sts):
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 & 15 [WS]: K2, p9, k2.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 10, 12 & 14 [RS]: P2, k9, p2.
Row 8 [RS]: P2, sl 3 sts to CN1 and hold in back, sl next 3 sts to CN2 and hold in back, k3 from LH needle, pass CN1 through to front, then k3 from CN2, then k3 from CN1, p2.
Row 16 [RS]: P2, sl 3 sts to CN1 and hold in back, sl next 3 sts to CN2 and hold in front, k3 from LH needle, k3 from CN2, k3 from CN1, p2.

Left Cross Chain (panel of 13 sts):
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 & 15 [WS]: K2, p9, k2.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 10, 12 & 14 [RS]: p2, k9, p2.
Row 8 [RS]: P2, sl 3 sts to CN1 and hold in front, sl next 3 sts to CN2 and hold in back, k3 from LH needle, k3 from CN2, k3 from CN1, p2.
Row 16 [RS]: P2, sl 3 sts to CN1 and hold in front, sl next 3 sts to CN2 and hold in front, k3 from LH needle, pass CN1 through to back, then k3 from CN2, k3 from CN1, p2.

Double Moss Stitch (even number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: *K1; p1; rep from * to end (work sts as they appear).
Row 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to end (work sts opposite to how they appear).
Row 4: *P1, k1; rep from * to end.

4-stitch One-Row Buttonhole:
Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, bring the yarn to the back. [Slip 1, pass first stitch on right needle over this slipped stitch as if to bind off] four times.
Slip last st from RH needle to LH needle. Turn work (WS is facing) and cable cast on 5 stitches to the left needle. Turn work (RS is facing).
Slip 1 st from left needle to right needle. Pass 1 CO st over this slipped st to finish the buttonhole.

DIRECTIONS
Lower Body
With circular needle and cable cast-on, CO 11[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19] sts, place mJ, CO 13 sts, place mI, CO 10[11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 23] sts, place mH (for left side "seam"), CO 10[11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 23], place mG, CO 13 sts, place mF, CO 22[26, 28, 32, 34, 36, 38, 38] sts, place mE, CO 13 sts, place mD, CO 10[11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 23] sts, place mC (for right side "seam"), CO 10[11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 23], place mB, CO 13 sts, place mA, CO 11[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19] sts. 136[148, 158, 170, 180, 190, 204, 220] sts total.

Set-Up Row 1 [RS]: K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
Set-Up Row 2 [WS]: P2, (k1, p1) to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, k2, p9, k2, sl m, purl to mG, sl m, k2, p9, k2, sl m, p1, (p1, k1) to 1 before next m, p1, sl m, k2, p9, k2, sl m, purl to mB, sl m, k2, p9, k2, sl m, p1, (p1, k1) to last 2 sts, p2.

Note: Continue to slip markers as you pass them unless otherwise noted.

Next Row [RS]: K2, work Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch to 1 st before mA, k1, work Row 2 of Left Cross Cable, knit to mD, work Row 2 of Right Cross Cable, k1, work Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch to 1 st before mF, k1, work Row 2 of Left Cross Cable, knit to mI, work Row 2 of Right Cross Cable, k1, work Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch to last 2 sts, k2.

Work 13 more rows in Double Moss Stitch, Cross Cables, and St st as est. Body should measure approx. 2.25 inches from cast-on edge.

Waist Dec Row [RS]: Patt to 2 sts before mC, k2tog, patt to mE, ssk, work to 2 sts before mF, k2tog, patt to mH, ssk, patt to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Work 5 rows even in patt.
Rep last 6 rows three times more, then work Waist Dec Row once more. 116[128, 138, 150, 160, 170, 184, 200] sts.

Work 9 rows even in patt.

Bust Inc Row [RS]: Patt to mC, M1R, sl m, patt to mE, sl m, k1, M1(L or P), patt to 1 st before mF, M1(R or P), k1, sl m, patt to mH, sl m, M1R, patt to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Work 7 rows even in patt, working increases into pattern.
Repeat last 8 rows three times more, then work Bust Inc Row once more. 136[148, 158, 170, 180, 190, 204, 220] sts.

Work even in patt until body measures 18 inches from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Divide for Upper Body:
Next Row [RS]: Patt to 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8] sts before mC, BO next 8[8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16] sts, patt to 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8] sts before mH, BO next 8[8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16] sts, patt to end.
Place 60[66, 70, 76, 78, 84, 88, 94] Upper Back sts and 30[33, 34, 37, 39, 41, 44, 47] Upper Right Front sts on waste yarn or holder if desired.
Cont on 30[33, 34, 37, 39, 41, 44, 47] sts rem for Upper Left Front only.

Upper Left Front
Work 1 WS row even.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X & 3X Only:
Next Row [RS]: BO -[-, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] sts, patt to end. -[-, 31, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42] sts.
Work 1 WS row even.

All Sizes:
Armhole Dec Row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec'd.
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows 2[3, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3] times more. 27[29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 37, 38] sts.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.5, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25] inches from underarm bind-off, ending after a RS row.

Shape Neck:
Next Row [WS]: BO 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8] sts, patt to end. 23[24, 25, 26, 28, 28, 29, 30] sts.
Work 1 RS row even.
Next Row [WS]: BO 3[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, patt to end. 20[20, 20, 20, 22, 21, 22, 23] sts.

Neck Dec Row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st dec'd.
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows 2[2, 1, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2] times more. 17[17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20] sts rem.
Work even in patt if necessary until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.5, 9.75] inches from underarm bind-off.
Place these sts on holder.

Upper Back
Place Upper Back sts back onto working needles.
With WS facing, join yarn and work 1 WS row even in patt.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X & 3X Only:
Next 2 Rows: BO -[-, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] sts, patt to end.

All Sizes:
60[66, 64, 70, 72, 76, 80, 84] sts.

Armhole Dec Row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows 2[3, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3] times more. 54[58, 62, 66, 68, 72, 74, 76] sts.

Work even in patt until Upper Back measures 6[6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8, 8.5, 8.75] inches from underarm bind-off, ending after a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Work 19[19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 22] sts in pattern, BO next 16[20, 22, 26, 26, 30, 32, 32] sts in pattern, work to end. Cont on last 19[19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 22] sts only for Left Shoulder.

Left Shoulder:
Work 1 WS row even.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec'd.

Rep last 2 rows once more. 17[17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20] sts.

Work even until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.5, 9.75] inches. Place sts on holder.

Right Shoulder:
Join yarn to 19[19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 22] sts held for back right shoulder with WS facing and work 1 row even.

Next Row [RS]: Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st dec'd.

Rep last 2 rows once more. 17[17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20] sts.

Work even until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.5, 9.75] inches. Place sts on holder.

Upper Right Front
Place Upper Right Front sts back onto working needles. Join yarn with WS facing.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X & 3X Only:
Next row [WS]: BO -[-, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] sts, patt to end.

Sizes XS & S Only:
Work 1 WS row even.

All Sizes:
30[33, 31, 34, 36, 37, 40, 42] sts.

Armhole Dec Row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st dec'd.
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows 2[3, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3] times more. 27[29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 37, 38] sts.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.5, 6.75, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25] inches from underarm bind-off, ending after a WS row.

Shape neck:
Next Row [RS]: BO 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8] sts, patt to end. 23[24, 25, 26, 28, 28, 29, 30] sts.
Work 1 WS row even.
Next Row [RS]: BO 3[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, patt to end. 20[20, 20, 20, 22, 21, 22, 23] sts.
Work 1 WS row even.

Neck Dec Row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec'd.
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows 2[2, 1, 1, 2, 1, 2, 2] times more. 17[17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20] sts.
Work even in patt if necessary until armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.5, 9.75] inches from underarm bind-off.
Place these sts on holder.

Right Sleeve
With circular needles and using cable cast-on, CO 37[37, 39, 39, 41, 41, 43, 43] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, work Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, work Row 2 of Double Moss Stitch to last st, p1.
Continue working Double Moss Stitch until cuff measures 2 inches from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: K12[12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15], pm, p2, k9, p2, pm, k to end.
Next Row [WS]: P to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Left Cross Cable over next 13 sts, sl m, p to end.

Work 8[6, 4, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2] rows even in patt.

Sleeve Inc Row [RS]: K2, M1L, patt to last 2 sts, M1R, k2. 2 sts inc'd.
Work 9[7, 5, 5, 5, 3, 3, 3] rows even in patt.
Rep last 10[8, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4, 4] rows, 5[7, 8, 10, 10, 12, 13, 15] times more. 49[53, 57, 61, 63, 67, 71, 75] sts.

Work even until sleeve measures 19 inches from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. Make a note of what cable row you end on so that you can match the other sleeve.

Shape sleeve cap:
Next 2 Rows: BO 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8] sts, work to end.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X & 3X Only:
Next 2 Rows: BO -[-, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] sts, work to end.

All Sizes:
41[45, 41, 45, 45, 47, 49, 49] sts.

Work 4 rows even.

Keeping in patt, work Cap Dec Row on next row, every foll 4th row 0[1, 3, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4] times more, then every foll RS row 9[9, 5, 8, 7, 8, 7, 7] times more, working decreases as foll:
Cap Dec Row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec'd.

21[23, 23, 23, 23, 23, 25, 25] sts.

Work 1 WS row even.

BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO rem 17[19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21] sts on foll row.

Left Sleeve
Work as for Right Sleeve, using Right Cross Cable instead of Left Cross Cable.

Collar
With right sides together, join shoulders using three-needle bind-off.

With smaller circular needle and RS facing, join yarn at Right Front Neck. Pick up and knit around neckline, picking up 1 st in each st and 2 sts for every 3 rows along shaped edges. Count your stitches and adjust on the first row so that the total is a multiple of 4 sts + 2.

Row 1 [WS]: P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Rep last 2 rows until collar measures 7 inches from pickup row, then work Row 1 once more.
Bind off all sts in pattern on RS.

Weave in any ends on the WS of the collar. Fold collar inside neck so that the bind-off edge and pickup edge are together. Using a length of yarn on a tapestry needle, slip stitch the bind-off edge of the collar to just below the pickup row.

Buttonband
With smaller circular needles and RS facing, join yarn at top of Left Front Collar. Pick up and knit down Left Front, being sure to pick up through both layers of the collar, and at a rate of 3 sts for every 4 rows along front. Count your stitches and adjust on the first row so that the total is a multiple of 4 sts + 2, and make a note of the total number of stitches.

Row 1 [WS]: P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 2 [RS]: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Rep last 2 rows three times more, then work Row 1 once more.

Bind off all sts in pattern on RS.

Place safety pins or split markers along buttonband to mark button placement, with center of top button 2 inches down from top of collar and remaining buttons evenly spaced to hem.

Buttonhole Band
With smaller circular needles and RS facing, join yarn at hem of Right Front.

Pick up and knit Right Front as for Buttonband, matching total number of stitches.

Row 1 [WS]: P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Work Row 1 once more.

Buttonhole Row [RS]: Work in rib as established, working 4-stitch One-Row Buttonholes to match placement of markers on Buttonband.
Rep Rows 1-2 twice more, then work Row 1 once more.
Bind off all sts in pattern on RS.

FINISHING
Sew sleeve seams and set sleeves into armholes.
Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.
Weave in ends and block to measurements.

Laura designs comfortable, modern knitwear from her home in Toronto. She is the author of Teach Yourself Visually Sock Knitting, and her designs have appeared in numerous publications, including several issues of Knitty!

She can be found at laurachau.com, Ravelry, Instagram, Twitter.