Cleary

Cleary, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Cleary

beauty shotby

Piquant

 

This cozy pullover is knit from the top down in an usual construction with increases over the shoulder line. The yoke, cuff, and hem are worked in two-color brioche, and optional short rows raise the back neck for a more comfortable fit.

A strand of Berroco's Aerial Color, a laceweight superkid mohair and silk blend is held along with both colors of solid Ultra Wool DK, for an exceptionally soft fabric with a watercolor-like color effect and a lovely halo.

spacer model: Alison Green

spacer photos: Rochelle BaRoss

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size L with 5 inches/12.5 cm of ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 33.75[38, 42, 45.75, 50.25, 54, 58, 61.75, 66.25, 70] inches / 85.5[96.5, 106.5, 116, 127.5, 137, 147.5, 157, 168.5, 178] cm
Length: 19.5[20, 20.25, 20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22, 22.5, 23, 23] inches / 49.5[51, 51.5, 52.5, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58.5, 58.5] cm (not including neckband)

MATERIALS

Yarn
Berroco Ultra Wool DK [100% superwash wool; 292 yd/267m per 100g skein];
spacer [MC] #83104 Driftwood; 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins
spacer [CC1] #83115 Bear; 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins

spacer [CC2] Berroco Aerial Color [65% superkid mohair, 35% silk; 284 yd/260m per 25g skein]; #34103 Renoir 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] skeins

Yarn Characteristics:
The sample shown uses a bouncy DK-weight superwash wool, held together with a laceweight, multicolored mohair and silk blend which provides a lovely halo and the variegated color effect. The color repeats on the laceweight mohair are not very long.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 2 US #7/4.5mm circular needles, 32-inch/80-cm long
[Note: if omitting optional short rows to raise back neck, only 1 32-inch/80-cm needle is needed.]

spacer 1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle, 16-inch/40-cm long
spacer 1 set #7/4.5mm double-pointed needles, or preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round
spacer 1 US #6/4mm circular needle, 16-inch/40-cm long

Notions
spacer stitch markers (one a different color for BOR)
spacer waste yarn
spacer yarn needle

GAUGE

18.5 sts/26 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch using MC and CC2 held together and larger needle
13 sts/20 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in brioche pattern using larger needle

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

MC and CC1 (Ultra Wool DK) yarns are each held with one strand of CC2 (Aerial) throughout. I found it worked better (and surprisingly to me, caused less tangling) to use two separate balls of CC2, one with MC and the second with CC1, even though technically you can use a single ball of CC2 with both.

Counting Rounds: Each round actually consists of two rounds (a DC round and an LC round) as you are working. If you count the rounds visually, each round that appears is made by working that round first with DC, then with LC.

Tubular Bind Off

Break off yarn leaving a tail of LC and a DC several yards long. Thread DC tail into tapestry needle.

  1. Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through.
  2. Insert the tapestry needle between the first and second stitches on the needle from back to front, and into the second stitch on the needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through.
  3. Insert the tapestry needle as if to knit into the first stitch, dropping the stitch off the end of the needle, and purlwise into the new second stitch on the needle (the stitch you have not gone through at all yet).
  4. Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the needle as if to purl, and drop it off the needle. Pull the yarn through.

Rep Steps 2–4 until all the stitches have been bound off.

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
DC: dark color, CC1 and CC2 held together
LC: light color, MC and CC2 held together
Brk (Brioche knit): Knit the stitch (slipped in the previous rnd) together with its accompanying yo
Brp (Brioche purl): Purl the stitch (slipped in the previous rnd) together with its accompanying yo
Sl1yo: Yo, then slip the stitch purlwise.
Brkyobrk: Brk, leaving resulting stitch on LH needle, yo, then brk into the same stitch. 2 sts inc'd.

Brioche Pattern
Worked in the round over an even number of stitches.
Rnd 1-DC: With DC, *k1, sl1yo; rep from * around.
Rnd 1-LC: With LC, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * around.
Rnd 2-DC: With DC, *brk, sl1yo; rep from * around.
Rnd 2-LC: With LC, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * around.
Repeat Rnd 2-DC and Rnd 2-LC for pattern.

DIRECTIONS

Yoke
With smaller 16-inch/40-cm circ needle and DC, cast on 92[92, 96, 96, 96, 100, 100, 100, 104, 104] sts. Place marker and join for working in the round. Work in k1, p1 ribbing for 8 rounds. Change to larger 16-inch/40-cm circ needle.

Rnd 1-DC: With DC, *k1, sl1yo; rep from * around.
Rnd 1-LC: Join LC. With LC, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * around.
Inc rnd 1: With DC, *brkyobrk, pm, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, pm, brkyobrk, work 41[41, 43, 43, 43, 45, 45, 45, 47, 47] sts in brioche pattern; rep from * once more. 8 sts increased.
Next rnd: With LC, *sl1yo, p1, sl1yo, sm, brp, sl1yo, brp, sm, sl1yo, p1, work in brioche pattern to 3 sts before next marker; rep from * once more.

Work DC and LC round in brioche pattern.
Inc rnd 2: With DC, *work to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, sm, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, sm, brkyobrk; rep from *, work to end. 8 sts increased.
LC rnd following Inc rnd: With LC, *work to 2 sts before next marker, p1, sl1yo, sm, brp, sl1yo, brp, sm, sl1yo, p1; rep from * once more, work to end.
Rep last 4 rnds (2 rnds counted visually) 2[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 10, 11, 11, 14] more times. 124[132, 144, 152, 152, 164, 196, 204, 208, 232] sts.

Work DC and LC round in brioche pattern twice.
Work Inc Rnd 2 and LC rnd following Inc rnd.
Rep last 6 rnds (3 rnds counted visually) 4[5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 5, 5, 6, 4] more times, removing all markers except BOR marker on last rnd. 164[180, 192, 200, 216, 228, 244, 252, 264, 272] sts.

Work optional short rows to raise back neck:
Row 1 [RS-DC]: Using second circular needle and DC, work 44[52, 56, 60, 68, 72, 80, 84, 88, 92] sts, wrap next st but do not turn. Slide sts just worked to the other end of this circular needle with RS still facing.
Row 1 [RS-LC]: Using the original circular needle and LC, work 44[52, 56, 60, 68, 72, 80, 84, 88, 92] sts. Second circular needle is now free of sts. Turn (there is no need to wrap with LC).
Row 2 [WS-DC]: With second circular needle and DC, (sl1yo, brp) to BOR marker, sm, (sl1yo, brp) 42[46, 49, 51, 55, 58, 62, 64, 67, 69] times, s1yo, wrap next st but do not turn. Slide sts to other end of circ with WS still facing.
Row 2 [WS-LC]: Using the original circular needle and LC, (brk, sk1yo) to last st on second needle, brk. Second circular needle is now free of sts. Turn (there is no need to wrap with LC).
Row 3 [RS-DC]: Using second circular needle and DC, work to BOR marker, sm, work to w&t, work wrap together with wrapped st, work 1 st, w&t.
Row 3 [RS-LC]: Using the original circular needle and LC, work to the end of the sts on the second needle. Second circular needle is now free of sts. Turn (there is no need to wrap with LC).
Row 4 [WS-DC]: With second circular needle and DC, (sl1yo, brp) to BOR marker, sm, (brp, sl1yo) to w&t, work wrap together with wrapped st, work 1 st, wrap next st but do not turn. Slide sts to other end of circ with WS still facing.
Row 4 [WS-LC]: Using the original circular needle and LC, (brk, sl1yo) to last st on second needle, brk. Second circular needle is now free of sts. Turn (there is no need to wrap with LC).
Row 5 [RS-DC]: Using second circular needle and DC, work to BOR marker.
Row 5 [RS-LC]: Using the original circular needle and LC, work to BOR.
Second circular needle is now free of sts and will no longer be used. You will now resume working in the round.
Work next round with DC, working wraps together with the wrapped sts, then work LC round.


Continue yoke:
Work even with DC and LC until yoke measures 7[7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 9.25, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 10.5] inches / 18[19, 19.5, 21, 22, 23.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5] cm from start of brioche section, measured down center back (do not include ribbing).

Break DC.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 4X, 6X ONLY:
Next rnd: With LC, *Kfb, k1; rep from * to end.

Sizes XS, S, M, 3X, 5X ONLY:
Next rnd: With LC, (kfb, k1) 10[12, 13, -, -, -, 19, -, 21, -] times, k2, (kfb, k1) 40[44, 47, -, -, -, 60, -, 65, -] times, k2, (kfb, k1) to end.

244[268, 286, 300, 324, 342, 364, 378, 394, 408] sts.

ALL SIZES:
Divide body and sleeves: Remove BOR marker, k 6[10, 12, 16, 20, 22, 25, 29, 31, 35] , place next 49[53, 55, 55, 59, 61, 65, 65, 65, 65] sts on hold for right sleeve, cast on 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts, place new BOR marker, cast on 3[4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, k 73[81, 88, 95, 103, 110, 117, 124, 132, 139] for front, place next 49[53, 55, 55, 59, 61, 65, 65, 65, 65] sts on hold for right sleeve, cast on 5[7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23] sts, k 73[81, 88, 95, 103, 110, 117, 124, 132, 139] for back, knit to BOR marker. 156[176, 194, 212, 232, 250, 268, 286, 306, 324] sts for Body.

Body
Work even in St st until piece measures 10 inches / 25 cm from underarm. Join DC.
Decrease rnd: Using DC, (k2tog, sl1yo) 52[58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 102, 108] times, (k1, slyo) 0[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 0, 0] times. 104[118, 130, 142, 156, 168, 180, 192, 204, 216] sts.
Work Brioche pattern Rnd 1-LC, then work 11 more rnds each with DC and LC. Bind off with DC using a stretchy bind off method; the tubular bind off method recommended.

Sleeves
Using LC and double-pointed needles (or preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round), beginning in center stitch of underarm cast-on sts, pick up and knit 3[4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts in cast on, 1 st in between cast on and held sts, work across held sts, pick up and knit 1 st in before cast on sts, then 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts in second half of cast on. 56[62, 66, 68, 74, 78, 84, 86, 88, 90] sts. Place marker and join for working in the round.
Decrease rnd: K 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] , k2tog, knit to last 3[4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, ssk, knit to end. 54[60, 64, 66, 72, 76, 82, 84, 86, 88] sts.
Work even in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 9.5 inches / 24 cm from underarm, or approximately 4 inches / 10 cm less than desired sleeve length. Join DC.
Decrease rnd: Using DC, (k2tog, sl1yo) 18[20, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 28, 28] times, (k1, slyo) 0[0, 2, 0, 0, 2, 2, 0, 1, 2] times. 36[40, 44, 44, 48, 52, 56, 56, 58, 60] sts.
Work Brioche pattern Rnd 1-LC, then work 19 more rnds each with DC and LC. Bind off with DC as for Body.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block as desired.


A - Bust circumference: 33.75[38, 42, 45.75, 50.25, 54, 58, 61.75, 66.25, 70] inches / 85.5[96.5, 106.5, 116, 127.5, 137, 147.5, 157, 168.5, 178] cm
B - Neck circumference: 23[23, 24, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25, 26, 26] inches / 58.5[58.5, 61, 61, 61, 63.5, 63.5, 63.5, 66, 66] cm
C - Body length: 12.5 inches / 32 cm
D - Yoke length: 7[7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 9.25, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 10.5] inches/ 18[19, 19.5, 21, 22, 23.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5] cm (measured in back; does not include neckband)
E - Sleeve circumference: 11.75[13, 13.75, 14.25, 15.5, 16.5, 17.75, 18.25, 18.5, 19] inches/ 30[33, 35, 36, 39.5, 42, 45, 46.5, 47, 48.5] cm
F - Sleeve length: 13.5 inches / 34.5 cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Alison is part of the design team at Berroco yarns, and lives in Providence, RI. She has been working in the knitting industry as a designer, teacher and technical editor since 2002.

Pattern & images © 2021 Alison Green