Featherwork, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Featherwork

beauty shot by Jairlyn Mason

Piquant

Featherwork's original colorwork design was inspired by the textiles of ancient Peru. The bold graphic pattern across the chest creates a striking image reminiscent of tail feathers, fletching and arrowheads.

Knit in a soft and lofty 2-ply merino that is warm and lightweight, this cardigan is a terrific 3-season sweater.

Featherwork is a top down cardigan with deep v-neck and raglan sleeves. The generous ease in the body and armholes with fitted lower forearm makes for a comfortable garment with sleeves that stay put. The straight sides and relaxed fit make it adjustable to either a traditional female or male body shape. Extra-long fold-over cuffs with optional thumbholes keep hands warm at a moments notice.

spacer models + photos: Jairlyn Mason, David Duong

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size M with 6.5 inches/15 cm of ease on Jairlyn, no ease on David

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm: 38.5[43.75, 43.75, 49, 49, 54.25, 59.5, 65, 65] inches/ 98[111, 111, 124.5, 124.5, 138, 151, 165, 165] cm
Length: 22.5[23.5, 24.25, 24.75, 25.75, 25.75, 26, 26, 27] inches/ 57[59.5, 61.5, 63, 65.5, 65.5, 66, 66, 68.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
[MC] Woolfolk SNO [100% Merino Wool; 223 yd/204 m per 50g skein]; color: 15+33 (black + slate blue); 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10] skeins

Woolfolk TYND [100% Merino Wool; 223 yd/204 m per 50g skein];
[CC1] color 02 (light gray): 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC2] color 15 (black); 1[1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
Woolfolk SNO and TYND are buttery soft and lofty 2-ply merino fingering-weight yarns. SNO is a 2-color marled yarn. TYND is a solid-color yarn. Choose 2 colors with strong light-dark contrast for the colorwork band. Choose a third, coordinating color for the body and sleeves. Choose a 2-ply non-superwash for best colorwork and steeking. If a superwash is chosen, reinforce steek with stitching before cutting open.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #3/3.25mm circular needle, 40-inch/100-cm or longer, or preferred method for working small and large circumference in the round
1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 40-inch/100-cm or longer, or preferred method for working small and large circumference in the round
1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle, 40-inch/100-cm or longer, or preferred method for working large circumference in the round

Notions
measuring tape
split ring stitch markers
waste yarn
5[5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] 0.75 inch/2 cm buttons
yarn needle

GAUGE

25 sts/38 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Stockinette stitch, worked flat and in the round, on medium sized needles
33 sts/27 rows in stranded pattern, repeat measures 5.25 inches/13.5 cm wide and 3.75 inches/9.5 cm long, worked in the round, on larger needles

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Recommended ease: 4-8 inches/10-20 cm

Construction method: The yoke of this top-down cardigan is worked flat. Then stitches are divided for the sleeves and the body is joined in the round with a steek. The lower body is worked in the round to the ribbing. The ribbed hem is worked flat. Sleeves are then picked up and worked one at a time in the round.

When instructed to CO in the middle or end of a row use the Cable, or Knitted Cast On.

Optimal placing for the colorwork band: Determine the desired location for the colorwork band by trying the garment on after joining to work in the round. If desired, bust darts may be added before joining CC1.

Slight waist shaping can be achieved by working the colorwork band on a needle one size smaller than needed to achieve the colorwork gauge, presumably the same size used for the stockinette gauge. This will shorten the height of the colorwork section.

Buttonholes are worked on both sides of the band for maximum flexibility over the life of your garment.

Techniques:

One-row Buttonholes
How to prepare and cut a steek (video tutorial)

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

YOKE
Using the medium needle, CO 64[70, 78, 84, 92, 94, 110, 112, 116] sts.

Set-up Row [WS]: P2, pm, p 12[12, 16, 16, 20, 18, 22, 22, 24] sts, pm, p 36[42, 42, 48, 48, 54, 62, 64, 64] sts, pm, p 12[12, 16, 16, 20, 18, 22, 22, 24] sts, pm, p2.

Work raglan shaping:

Sizes XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, -, -, -] only:
Row 1 [RS]: (Knit to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI) 4 times, knit to end. 8 sts inc'd.
Row 2 [and all WS rows]: Purl.
Row 3: Kfb, (knit to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI) 4 times, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 10 sts inc'd.
Row 5: (Knit to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k1, LLI) 2 times, knit to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 9: Repeat Row 1.
Row 11: Kfb, (knit to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k1, LLI) 2 times, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 6 sts inc'd.

Repeat Rows 1-12 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, -, -, -] more times. 340[346, 400, 406, 414, 416, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, 1X, -, -, -, -] only:
Repeat Rows 1-8 once more. -[-, -, -, 446, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[S, -, L, -, 2X, -, -, -] only:
Repeat Rows 1-6 once more. -[368, -, 428, -, 438, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[S, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] only:
Repeat Row 11 once more. -[374, -, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, -, 2X, -, -, -] only:
Next row [RS]: Kfb, (knit to 3 sts before m, RLI, k2, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI, k2, LLI) 4 times, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. -[-, -, -, -, 456, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, -, -, 3X, 4X, 5X] only:
Row 1 [RS]: Kfb, (knit to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI) 4 times, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 10 sts inc'd.
Row 2 [and all WS rows]: Purl.
Row 3: (Knit to 1 st before m, RLI, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k1, LLI) 2 times, knit to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Repeat Rows 1-6 -[-, -, -, -, -, 13, 12, 13] more times. -[-, -, -, -, -, 446, 424, 452] sts.

Row 7 [RS]: Kfb, (knit to 3 sts before m, RLI, k2, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI, k2, LLI) 4 times, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 18 sts inc'd.
Row 9: (Knit to 3 sts before m, RLI, k2, RLI, k1, sl m, k1, LLI, k2, LLI) 4 times, knit to end. 16 sts inc'd.
Row 11: Repeat Row 7. -[-, -, -, -, -, 498, 476, 504] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 4X, 5X] only:
Repeat Rows 7-12 once more. -[-, -, -, -, -, -, 528, 556] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, -, -, 3X, 4X, -] only:
Repeat Row 7 once more. -[-, -, -, -, -, 516, 546, -] sts.

Total stitch count: 340[374, 400, 428, 446, 456, 516, 546, 556]

Stitch count by section:
Front: 56[62, 65, 69, 71, 72, 83, 86, 88] sts
Sleeves: 60[64, 72, 76, 82, 82, 94, 102, 104] sts
Back: 108[122, 126, 138, 140, 148, 162, 170, 172] sts

Divide for Body and Sleeves:

Sizes XS[S, M, -, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, -] only:
Next row [RS]: Knit to m, remove m, place next 60[64, 72, -, 82, 82, 94, 102, -] sts on waste yarn for Left Sleeve, remove m, CO 6[10, 5, -, 9, 20, 19, 27, -] sts for underarm, knit to m, remove marker, place next 60[64, 72, -, 82, 82, 94, 102, -] sts on waste yarn for Right Sleeve, remove m, CO 6[10, 5, -, 9, 20, 19, 27, -] sts for underarm, knit to end. 232[266, 266, -, 300, 332, 366, 396, -] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, L, -, -, -, -, 5X] only:
Next row [RS]: Kfb, knit to m, remove m, place next -[-, -, 76, -, -, -, -, 104] sts on waste yarn for Left Sleeve, remove m, CO -[-, -, 11, -, -, -, -, 24] sts for underarm, knit to m, remove marker, place next -[-, -, 76, -, -, -, -, 104] sts on waste yarn for Right Sleeve, remove m, CO -[-, -, 11, -, -, -, -, 24] sts for underarm, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. -[-, -, 300, -, -, -, -, 398] sts.

Sizes -[S, M, -, 1X, 2X, 3X, -, 5X] only:
Next row [WS]: Purl 1 row even.

Size XS[-, -, -, -, -, -, 4X, -] only:
Next row [WS]: Purl to 1 st past first set of CO sts, pfb, purl to 2 sts before second set of CO sts, pfb, purl to end. 234[-, -, -, -, -, -, 398, -] sts.

Size -[-, -, L, -, -, -, -, -] only:
Work 3 rows even in St st.

BODY
Note: Try garment on after joining in the round to determine desired location for colorwork band. If desired, bust darts may be added before joining CC1.

All Sizes:
Joining Rnd [RS]: Kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, pm, k1, CO 5 sts for the steek, k1 to join in the round, pm for new start of round. 241[273, 273, 307, 307, 339, 373, 405, 405] sts.

Note: Steek has 7 sts, which includes the first and last sts of the previous rnd plus 5 CO sts.

Work even in St st as needed to reach desired location for colorwork band, ending on a knit row. Most flattering location is likely 0.5[0.75, 1, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5] inches/ 1.5[2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] cm below bust point/apex.
Cut MC.

Join CC1 and work 2[1, 1, 3, 3, 2, 3, 2, 2] rnds even in St st.

Sizes -[S, M, -, -, 2X, -, 4X, 5X] only: Next Rnd: K -[68, 68, -, -, 80, -, 100, 100] sts, M1, knit to end. -[274, 274, -, -, 340, -, 406, 406] sts.

All Sizes:

Work Chart 1:
Join CC2 and use large needles to work Chart 1 to last 7 sts, work Steek Chart.

Cont as set until Chart 1 is complete.

Using CC1 and medium needles, work 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] rnds even.

Next Rnd: Using CC1, k 60[67, 67, 75, 75, 82, 92, 100, 100] sts, k2tog, knit to end. 240[273, 273, 306, 306, 339, 372, 405, 405] sts.

Work Chart 2:
Using large needles work Chart 2 across to last 7 sts, work Steek Chart.

Cont as set until Chart 2 is complete.

Using CC1 and medium needles, work 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] rnds even.

Next Rnd: Using CC1 knit 60[67, 67, 75, 75, 82, 92, 100, 100] sts, M1, knit to end. 241[274, 274, 307, 307, 340, 373, 406, 406] sts.

Work Chart 1:
Using large needles work Chart 1 across to last 7 sts, work Steek Chart.

Cont as set until Chart 1 is complete.

Cut CC2.

Using CC1 and medium needles, work 1[1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2] rnds even.

Sizes XS[S, M, -, -, -, 3X, 4X, 5X] only:
Next Rnd: Using CC1, k 60[67, 67, -, -, -, 92, 100, 100] sts, k2tog, knit to end. 240[273, 273, -, -, -, 372, 405, 405] sts.

Cut CC1.

Join MC and work 1 rnd even in St st.

Sizes -[-, -, L, 1X, -, -, -, -] only:
Next Rnd: K75 sts, M1, knit to end. -[-, -, 308, 308, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[S, M, -, -, -, -, 4X, 5X] only:
Next Rnd: K -[66, 66, -, -, -, -, 99, 99] sts, k2tog, knit to end. -[272, 272, -, -, -, -, 404, 404] sts.

All Sizes:
Work even in St st until piece measures 11.5[11.75, 12, 12.5, 12.75, 12.75, 13, 13, 13] inches/ 29[30, 30.5, 32, 32.5, 32.5, 33, 33, 33] cm from under arm CO, or approximately 2 inches/5 cm less than desired length.

Hem
Change to small needles.
Set-up Rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, remove marker, k1, place split ring marker in st just worked to mark as new end of row, BO 5 sts using rem 6 sts of row, final st rem on needle, remove marker. 240[272, 272, 308, 308, 340, 372, 404, 404] sts.

Note: Ribbing is worked flat from this point on beginning with a RS row.

Next row [RS]: Leaving last st worked on RH needle, (k2, p2) across to last 3 sts, k3 removing split ring marker.

Next row [WS]: P3, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Next row [RS]: K3, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Cont in Rib pattern as set until ribbing measures 2 inches/5 cm or desired length.
BO loosely in pattern.

SLEEVES (work 2)
Work sleeves one at a time as follows.

With MC and medium needle for working small diameters in the round, beg at center of underarm pick up and knit 3[5, 3, 6, 5, 10, 10, 13, 12] sts, k 60[64, 72, 76, 82, 82, 94, 102, 104] held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 3[5, 3, 6, 5, 10, 10, 13, 12] sts from underarm, pm. 66[74, 78, 88, 92, 102, 114, 128, 128] sts.

Cont in the round, work 10[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] rnds even.

Decrease rnd: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 2 sts dec'd.
Work 9[7, 6, 6, 6, 6, 5, 4, 4] rnds even.

Repeat these last 10[8, 7, 7, 7, 7, 6, 5, 5] rows 8[12, 14, 15, 15, 16, 18, 21, 21] more times. 48[48, 48, 56, 60, 68, 76, 84, 84] sts.

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 14.5[15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 16.5] inches/ 37[38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42, 42] cm from underarm, or until sleeve is 2 in/5 cm less than desired length.

Thumb Hole Cuff - option 1
Work an additional 0.5 inch/1 cm in St st, ending 5 sts before marker.

Place next 10 sts on waste yarn, removing marker.

Change to smaller needles for working small diameters in the round and CO 10 sts with cable cast on or desired method, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Cont in rib pattern as set till cuff measure 5 inches/12.5 cm. BO loosely in pattern.

Thumb Hole Flap
Row 1 [RS]: Place 10 held sts on needle and join MC leaving a long tail, (k2, p2) twice, k1, kfb, slide sts to other end of needle and use tail to CO 1 st with backwards loop, slide sts back to other end of needle. 12 sts.

Row 2 [WS]: P3, k2, p2, k2, p3.
Row 3 [RS]: K3, p2, k2, p2, k3.

Work 3 more rows in rib pattern as set. BO loosely in pattern leaving a long tail.

Ribbed Cuff – options 2 & 3
Change to small needles for working small diameters in the round, and work K2, P2 ribbing for 5 inches/25.5 cm for fold-over cuff, or 2 inches/5 cm for standard cuff.

BO loosely in pattern.

FINISHING

Cut Steek:
If synthetic, plant-based, superwash or other non-feltable yarn was used, steek must be reinforced with hand or machine stitching before cutting.

Carefully cut steek open down the center column of sts. Place hand inside sweater to separate front and back, and ensure scissors only cut the intended column of stitches.

Work Buttonband:
Place 7 split ring st markers at the following locations: bottom of v-neck on both sides, each raglan line, and center back.

Using small circular needle and MC, with RS facing, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows and 1 st for every CO st, to center back marker.

Count and record sts for each section picked up on Right half of sweater.

Continue picking up sts on Left half of sweater matching st counts in each section to those on Right half.

Total stitches must be a multiple of 4 for rib pattern.
If needed, increase or decrease 1 or 2 sts across back neck on first row of ribbing.

Remove all markers except for marker at bottom of v-neck on Right Front. This marker is for buttonhole placement. Move this marker to the needle.

Ribbing Row 1 [WS]: Slp, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Ribbing Row 2 [RS]: Slp, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.

Repeat these last 2 rows twice more.

Note: Check that your buttons fit the buttonholes after creating the first one.

Buttonhole Row [WS]: knit to 82[82, 82, 82, 82, 82, 98, 98, 98] sts before 1st marker, (work 4 st one-row button hole, work 12 sts in rib pattern as set) rep [3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] more times, work 4 st one-row button hole, work to 2 sts past next marker in rib pattern as set, (work 4 st one-row button hole, work 12 sts in rib pattern as set) rep [3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] more times, work 4 st one-row button hole, work to end of row in rib pattern as set

Work 5 more rows in Ribbing pattern beginning with a RS row.
BO loosely in pattern.

Thumbhole Cuff
Use long yarn tails and Mattress St to sew thumbhole flap in place. Sew flap to cuff on right and left sides leaving top open for thumb hole. This creates a covered opening similar to a pocket without a button.

Weave in all ends. Sew buttons over holes on desired side. Steam or wet block.

A – Chest circumference at underarm: 38.5[43.75, 43.75, 49, 49, 54.25, 59.5, 65, 65] inches/ 98[111, 111, 124.5, 124.5, 138, 151, 165, 165] cm
B – Body length: 13.75[14, 14.25, 14.75, 15, 15, 15.25, 15.25, 15.25] inches/ 35[35.5, 36, 37.5, 38, 38, 38.5, 38.5, 38.5] cm
C – Neckline depth: 8[9, 9.25, 9.75, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10.25] inches/ 20.5[23, 23.5, 25, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 26] cm
D – Total length: 22.5[23.5, 24.25, 24.75, 25.75, 25.75, 26, 26, 27] inches/ 57[59.5, 61.5, 63, 65.5, 65.5, 66, 66, 68.5] cm
E – Yoke depth: 7.5[8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.75, 9.75, 9.75, 9.75, 10] inches/ 19[21.5, 23, 24, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25.5] cm
F – Back neck width: 5.75[6.75, 6.75, 7.75, 7.75, 8.75, 10, 10.25, 10.25] inches/ 14.5[17, 17, 19.5, 19.5, 22, 25.5, 26, 26] cm
G – Center back neck to wrist: 27[29.5, 30.5, 32, 32.75, 33.5, 34.5, 35, 35.75] inches/ 68.5[75, 77.5, 81.5, 83, 85, 87.5, 89, 91] cm
H –Upper sleeve circumference: 10.5[11.75, 12.5, 14, 14.75, 16.5, 18.25, 20.5, 20.5] inches/ 26.5[30, 32, 35.5, 37.5, 42, 46.5, 52, 52] cm
I – Lower sleeve/cuff circumference: 7.75[7.75, 7.75, 9, 9.5, 11, 12, 13.5, 13.5] inches/ 19.5[19.5, 19.5, 23, 24, 28, 30.5, 34.5, 34.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername When not engaged in a fibery pursuit, Jairlyn enjoys tending the veggie patch, or – seasons not permitting – growing lettuce in the living room.

She can occasionally be found wandering through the woods with her husband and their 3-legged dog, Macy.