Cascading Shoulder, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Cascading Shoulder

beauty shot

by Martha Emily

Piquant

The Cascading Shoulder sweater was born out of an experiment with using short rows to create neck and shoulder shaping. The effect was exciting to play with, as it created fun diagonal lines across the shoulders. Then came the challenge: how to transition the cascading stitches over the shoulders and down the arms. The answer, a continuation of the diagonal lines wrapping around the back of the arm. This resulted in a poof at the end of the sleeve without adding any stitches, and the decision was made to make this a cropped sweater to balance out the sleeves. The result is a unique, comfortable fit that is perfect for color blocking!

spacer model: Felipa Benjamin

spacer photos: Kyra Rodriguez

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size S with 7 inches/17.5 cm of ease at largest part of chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust: 37[40.5, 44, 48, 51.5, 55, 60.5, 64, 67.5] inches/ 94.5[103.5, 112.5, 121.5, 131, 140, 151, 162.5, 171.7] cm
Length: 18.5[18.5, 19, 19, 19.5, 19.5, 20, 20, 20.5] inches 47[47, 28, 48, 49.5, 49.5, 50.5, 50.5, 53] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Kelbourne Woolens Cozy [70% Superwash Merino Wool, 30% Easy Wash Alpaca; 201 yd/183 m per 100g skein];
[MC] Eggplant; 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] skeins
[CC] Robin's Egg Blue; 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a DK-weight 3-ply merino blended with Alpaca, giving it a bit of extra drape, softness, and warmth. A yarn with just a bit of a relaxed fiber blended in gives the boxy shape more drape while allowing you to still be able to push up the sleeves without them immediately falling back down.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 24-40-inches/60-100-cm long (for shoulder shaping, front, and back)
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 16-inches/40-cm long (for casting on at neck)

Notions
stitch markers
stitch holders or waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

18 sts/27 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: This squared-off U-neck sweater is knit in one piece, then seamed up the arms and down the sides. Short rows shape the neck and travel across the shoulders, giving the tops of the shoulders a natural curve. Shoulder stitches are placed on holders for the sleeves, while the short row stitches are used to knit the front and back panels. In addition to the shoulder stitches, stitches are picked up along the front and back panels for the sleeves.

Techniques:

Double-start cast on (video)
German Short Rows (video)
Elastic bind off (video)
Mattress stitch (video)

DIRECTIONS

Neck
Using CC and double-start cast on, CO 86[90, 94, 98, 102, 106, 110, 114, 118] sts. Place BOR m before joining to work in the round.

Rounds 1-2: (K1, p1) to end of round.
Round 3: Purl.

Work Right Shoulder:
Set-up Row [RS]: K 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] (half of back neck), k 9[10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15] (back right shoulder), pm, k 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] (front right shoulder), turn.
Short row 1 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, pull yarn over to create doubled st, purl to m, M1, sl m, p 9[10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15] , turn. 1 st increased.
Short row 2: Sl1 wyif, pull yarn over to create double st, knit to m, M1, sl m, k 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] , turn. 1 st increased.
Repeat Short rows 1-2 37[41, 45, 48, 52, 56, 61, 65, 69] more times. Do not turn at the final repeat of Short row 2. 162[174, 186, 196, 208, 220, 234, 246, 258] sts.

Work Left Shoulder:
Set-up Row [RS]: K 38[42, 46, 49, 53, 57, 62, 66, 70] , being careful to knit doubled sts tog, k 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] (front neck sts), k 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] (front left shoulder), pm, k 9[10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15] (back left shoulder), turn.
Short row 1 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, pull yarn over to create doubled st, purl to m, M1, sl m, p 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] , turn.
Short row 2: Sl1 wyif, pull yarn over to create double st, knit to m, M1, sl m, k 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] , turn.
Repeat Short rows 1-2 37[41, 45, 48, 52, 56, 61, 65, 69] more times. Do not turn at the final repeat of Short row 2. 238[258, 278, 294, 314, 334, 358, 378, 398] sts.

Cut CC, leaving tail to weave in at end.

Back
Set-up row [RS]: Using MC, k 38[42, 46, 49, 53, 57, 62, 66, 70] Left Back shoulder short-row sts, being careful to knit doubled sts tog, k 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] Back neck sts, k 38[42, 46, 49, 53, 57, 62, 66, 70] Right Back shoulder short-row sts, being careful to knit doubled sts tog. 86[94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 138, 146, 154] Back sts.

Place remaining 152[164, 176, 184, 196, 208, 220, 232, 244] sts on holders, with 33[35, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45] sts for Right sleeve, 86[94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 138, 146, 154] for Front, and 33[35, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45] sts for Left sleeve.

Work 86[94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 138, 146, 154] Back sts in St st for 16.5[16.5, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 17.75, 18, 18] inches/ 42[42, 43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45, 45.5, 45.5] cm, or to desired length minus 2 inch/5 cm hem, measured from center shoulder increase line.

Work Back Hem:
Row 1 [RS]: (K2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: (P2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for 2 inches/5 cm, or desired length.
BO using the elastic bind off method.

Front
Move the Right sleeve 33[35, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45] sts, and the Left sleeve 33[35, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45] sts to their own stitch holders, returning the middle 86[94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 138, 146, 154] Front sts to the needles for knitting.
Set-up row [RS]: Using MC, k 38[42, 46, 49, 53, 57, 62, 66, 70] Right shoulder short-row sts, being careful to knit doubled sts tog, k 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14] front neck sts, k 38[42, 46, 49, 53, 57, 62, 66, 70] Left shoulder short-row sts, being careful to knit doubled sts tog. 86[94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 138, 146, 154] sts.

Work 86[94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 138, 146, 154] Front sts in St st for 16.5[16.5, 17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 17.75, 18, 18] inches/ 42[42, 43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45, 45.5, 45.5] cm, or to desired length minus 2 inch/5 cm hem, measured from center shoulder increase line.

Work Front Hem:
Row 1 [RS]: (K2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: (P2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for 2 inches/5 cm, or desired length.
BO using the elastic bind off method.

Right Sleeve
Place locking stitch markers on the right Front & Back, measured from stitches on Right Sleeve stitch holder as follows: Measure 1.5[1.75, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5] inches/ 4[4.5, 5, 6.5, 7.5, 9, 10, 11.5, 12.5] cm down Right Front side and place locking st m to mark area for picking up sts. Measure 5[5.25, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[13.5, 14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 21.5] cm down Right Back side and place locking st m. This will mark the area for picking up sts. Move 33[35, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45] Right Sleeve sts from st holder to needles.

Set-up row 1 [RS]: Using MC, k 9[10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15] sts, place increase m, M1, k 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] sts, pick up and k 7[8, 9, 12, 14, 16, 19, 21, 23] sts to Right Front st marker. 41[44, 47, 50, 54, 58, 61, 65, 69] sts.
Set-up row 2 [WS]: P 8[9, 10, 13, 15, 17, 20, 22, 24] sts, place decrease m, purl to increase m, M1PL, sl m, p 8[9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] sts, place another decrease m, p1, pick up and p 23[24, 25, 28, 30, 32, 35, 37, 39] sts to Right Back st marker. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.

Row 1: Knit to 2 sts before first decrease m, k2tog, sl m, knit to increase m, sl m, M1, knit to next decrease m, sl m, ssk, knit to end. 64[68, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] sts.
Row 2: Purl to increase m, M1PL, sl m, purl to end. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.
Repeat Rows 1-2 6[7, 8, 11, 13, 15, 18, 20, 22] more times, eliminating 1 decrease m.

Row 3: Knit to 2 sts before first decrease m, k2tog, sl m, knit to increase m, sl m, M1, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. 64[68, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] sts.
Row 4: Purl to increase m, M1PL, sl m, purl to end. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.
Repeat Rows 3-4 15[15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15] more times, eliminating remaining decrease m.

Row 5: K2tog, knit to increase m, sl m, M1, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. 64[68, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] sts.
Row 6: Purl to increase m, M1PL, sl m, purl to end. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.
Repeat Rows 5-6 8[9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] more times, eliminating increase m.

Row 7: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. 63[67, 71, 77, 83, 89, 95, 101, 107] sts
Row 8: Purl.
Repeat Rows 7-8 3[3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 9, 10, 11] more times. 57[61, 61, 65, 69, 69, 77, 81, 85] sts.

Work even in St st until Sleeve measures 14.25[14.75, 15.25, 16, 16.5, 17.25, 18, 18, 18.25] inches/ 36[37.5, 38.5, 40.5, 42, 44, 45.5, 45.5, 46.5] cm from picked up sts, or desired length minus 1 inch/2.5 cm for cuff, ending on WS row.

Cuff set-up row [RS]: (K2tog) to last st, k1. 29[31, 31, 33, 35, 35, 39, 41, 43] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: (K1 tbl, p1 tbl) to last st, k1 tbl.
Row 2: (P1 tbl, k1 tbl) to last st, p1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for 1 inch/2.5 cm.
BO using the elastic bind off method. Leave an extra-long tail for seaming.

Left Sleeve
Place locking stitch markers on the right Front and Back, measured from stitches on Right Sleeve stitch holder as follows: Measure 1.5[1.75, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5] inches/ 4[4.5, 5, 6.5, 7.5, 9, 10, 11.5, 12.5] cm down Left Front side and place locking st m to mark area for picking up sts. Measure 5[5.25, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[13.5, 14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 21.5] cm down Left Back side and place locking st m. This will mark the area for picking up sts. Move 33[35, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43, 45] Right Sleeve sts from st holder to needles.

Set-up row 1 [RS]: Using MC, k 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] sts, M1, place increase m, k 9[10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15] sts, pick up and k 23[24, 25, 28, 30, 32, 35, 37, 39] sts to Left Back locking st marker. 57[60, 63, 66, 70, 74, 77, 81, 85] sts.
Set-up row 2 [WS]: P 24[25, 26, 29, 31, 33, 36, 38, 40] sts, place decrease m, purl to increase m, sl m, M1PL, p 24[25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30] sts, place another decrease m, P1, pick up and p 7[8, 9, 12, 14, 16, 19, 21, 23] sts to Left Front locking st marker. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.

Row 1: Knit to 2 sts before first decrease m, k2tog, sl m, knit to increase m, M1, sl M, knit to next decrease m, ssk, knit to end. 64[68, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] sts.
Row 2: Purl to increase m, sl m, M1PL, purl to end. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.
Repeat Rows 1-2 6[7, 8, 11, 13, 15, 18, 20, 22] more times, eliminating 1 decrease m.

Row 3: K2tog, knit to increase m, M1, sl m, knit to decrease m, sl m, ssk, knit to end. 64[68, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] sts.
Row 4: Purl to increase m, sl m, M1PL, purl to end. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.
Repeat Rows 3-4 15[15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15] more times, eliminating other decrease m.

Row 5: K2tog, knit to increase m, sl M, M1, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. 64[68, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] sts.
Row 6: Purl to increase m, sl M, M1PL, purl to end. 65[69, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts.
Repeat Rows 5-6 8[9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] more times, eliminating increase m.

Row 7: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. 63[67, 71, 77, 83, 89, 95, 101, 107] sts
Row 8: Purl.
Repeat Rows 7-8 3[3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 9, 10, 11] more times. 57[61, 61, 65, 69, 69, 77, 81, 85] sts.

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 14.25[14.75, 15.25, 16, 16.5, 17.25, 18, 18, 18.25] inches/ 36[37.5, 38.5, 40.5, 42, 44, 45.5, 45.5, 46.5] cm from picked up sts, or desired length minus 1 inch/2.5 cm for cuff, ending on WS row.

Cuff set-up row [RS]: (K2tog) to last st, k1. 29[31, 31, 33, 35, 35, 39, 41, 43] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: (K tbl, p tbl) to last st, k tbl.
Row 2: (P tbl, k tbl) to last st, p tbl.
Repeat Rows 1-2 for 1 inch/2.5 cm.
BO using the elastic bind off method. Leave an extra-long tail for seaming.

FINISHING

Use locking stitch markers to "pin" wrong sides together, matching underarm corners, hem, and cuffs, then halfway between those marks. Use mattress stitch to sew the arm and side seams. Block.

A - Chest circumference: 37.25[40.75, 44.5, 48, 51.5, 55, 60.5, 64, 67.5] inches/ 94.5[103.5, 113, 122, 131, 139.5, 153.5, 162.5, 171.5] cm
B – Total length: 18.5[18.5, 19, 19, 19.5, 19.5, 20, 20, 20.5] inches/ 47[47, 48.5, 48.5, 49.5, 49.5, 51, 51, 52] cm
C – Neck circumference: 19[20, 21, 21.75, 22.75, 23.5, 24.5, 25.25, 26.25] inches/ 48.5[51, 53.5, 55, 58, 59.5, 62, 64, 66.5] cm
D – Wrist circumference (unstretched): 6.5[6.75, 6.75, 7.25, 7.75, 7.75, 8.75, 9, 9.5] inches/ 16.5[17, 17, 18.5, 19.5, 19.5, 22, 23, 24] cm
E – Sleeve length: 16.25[16.75, 17.25, 18, 18.5, 19.25. 20, 20, 20.25, ] inches/ 41.5[42.5, 44, 45.5, 47, 49, 51, 51, 51.5] cm
F – Upper arm circumference: 11.5[12, 12.5, 13.25, 14, 15, 15.5, 16.25, 17] inches/ 29[30.5, 32, 33.5, 35.5, 38, 39.5, 41.5, 43] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Learning to knit at a young age from a mother who was always knitting, Martha's early work revolved around playing with yarn and learning new stitches. Martha continues to enjoy exploring with new stitches and techniques as she creates new designs from her home in North Carolina.

Find more information about the designer at her website.