Structured Seams, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Structured Seams

beauty shot

by Amy Gunderson

Tangy

I love a good, complicated knit. Throw me an all-over cabled sweater, colorwork knit flat, lots of shaping or unusual construction. But sometimes it's just nice to sit down and knit the darn sweater. I can't tell you this sweater is entirely without shaping – it has to fit after all. And it's not without a bit of detail work, either. But it's the fun kind – at least to me!

This squishy garter sweater begins at the top with the saddles and works its way downward. Slipped I-cord edges and I-cord bind-offs form the look of exposed seams in this oversized sweater. Short-row shaping is thrown in at the shoulders for good measure, but there's nothing super fussy about this garment. I made my samples in two different sizes, resulting in 7.5 and 11.5 inches of ease respectively, and I love them both! These are destined to become wardrobe staples that I'll be reaching for time and again over the years.

spacer model: Amy Gunderson, Justin Reed

spacer photos: Justin Reed, Alex Frankel

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size S (caramel version) with 7.5 inches/19 cm of ease at chest and size M (aubergine version) with 11.5 inches/29 cm of ease at chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm: 37[40.5, 44.25, 48.75, 52.25, 56.75, 60.75, 65, 68.5] inches/ 94[103, 112.5, 124, 132.5, 144, 154.5, 165, 174] cm
Length: 22[22.5, 23, 23.25, 23.75, 24, 24.75, 25.25, 25.5] inches/ 56[57, 58.5, 59. 60.5, 61, 63, 64, 65, ] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Malabrigo Ultimate Sock [75% Superwash Wool, 25% Nylon; 420 yd/385 m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein]; color: 142 Caramel; 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10] skeins

Premier Yarns Anti-Pilling Everyday Superfine [100% Anti-Pilling Acrylic; 437 yd/400 m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein]; color: 2201-09 Aubergine; 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The caramel sample shown uses a fingering weight superwash merino/nylon blend. Most wool or wool blends will work well for this project. Avoid using plant fibers for this project as it would end up being very heavy due to the garter stitch in this project. The aubergine sample uses a plied acrylic yarn.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #2/2.75mm needles – 32 inch/80 cm circular (for body) and 16 inch/40 cm circular (for neck edging only)
2 sets US #1/2.25mm needles – 32 inch/80 cm circular (for body) and 16 inch/40 cm circular (for neck edging only)

Notions
stitch holder
removable marker
safety pins
yarn needle

GAUGE

28.5 sts x 57 rows – 4 inches / 10 cm in garter st with larger needle
37 sts x 42 rows – 4 inches / 10 cm in K1, p1 Ribbing with smaller needle

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: Saddles are knit first from the neck outward. Stitches are picked up from one side of the saddles and the back is knit downward, flat. Shoulders are shaped using short-rows. Stitches are then picked up from the other side of the saddles and the front is knit downward, flat. Shoulders are shaped using short-rows. Sleeve stitches are a combination of being picked up from the sides of the front and back, and also live stitches from the ends of the saddles. They are knit downward, flat.

It's important to match row gauge because specific numbers of stitches are picked up around armholes for sleeves. That being said, try not to sweat it too much as garter stitch is stretchy and forgiving.

Techniques:

2-Stitch I-Cord Bind-Off
Cast on 2 sts using the knitted method. *K1, k2tog tbl, sl these 2 sts back to left needle; rep from * until all sts have been bound off, bind off rem 2 sts.
sewn tubular bind off – single needle method (photo tutorial)
OR holding 2 smaller needles parallel (your working needle plus another needle), sl knit sts to the front needle and sl purl sts to the back needle, and bind off using the standard stockinette stitch graft.

K1, p1 Ribbing (odd number of sts)
Rnd 1: * K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnd 1 for patt.

Kfpb: knit into the front loop of the next st, then purl in the back loop of the same st. 1 st increased.

DIRECTIONS

Saddles (make 2)
Note: You may wish to place a marker on the RS of your work to help keep track of right and wrong side rows.
Cast on 38 sts with larger needle.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 2 pwise wyif, knit to last 2 sts, sl 2 pwise wyif.
Rep Rows 1-2 until Saddle measures 6.5[7.25, 8, 9, 9.75, 10.75, 11.5, 12.5, 13.25] inches/ 16.5[18.5, 20.5, 23, 24.5, 27.5, 29, 32, 33.5] cm, approximately 92[102, 114, 128, 138, 152, 164, 178, 188] rows / 46[51, 57, 64, 69, 76, 82, 89, 94] garter ridges + 1 row, ending with a WS row.

Break yarn, place first and last 2 sts on safety pins, place rem 34 sts on Waste yarn.

Back
2 sts from each Saddle will become the edge sts for the Back.
Setup Row [WS]: With WS facing and larger needle, with first (Left Shoulder) Saddle cast-on edge to the left, sl 2 Saddle sts, pick up and knit 46[51, 57, 64, 69, 76, 82, 89, 94] sts along Saddle (one for each ridge), working between the 2 slipped sts and the rest of the fabric, pm, cast on 38[40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54] sts for Neck, pm; working along second (Right Shoulder) Saddle cast-on edge to the right, pick up and knit 46[51, 57, 64, 69, 76, 82, 89, 94] sts along Saddle, working between the 2 slipped sts and the rest of the fabric, sl next 2 edge sts. 134[146, 160, 176, 188, 204, 218, 234, 246] sts.

Shape Back Shoulders with short rows:
Row 1 [RS]: [Knit to m, sl m] 2 times, k2, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: DS, (knit to m, sl m) 2 times, k2, turn.
Row 3: DS, knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] , turn.
Row 4: DS, knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] , turn.
Rep Rows 3-4 4[10, 4, 8, 3, 7, 1, 5, 0] more time(s).

XS[-, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X] sizes only:
Row 5: DS, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[-, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] , turn.
Row 6: DS, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[-, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] , turn.
Rep Rows 5-6 5[-, 5, 1, 6, 2, 8, 4, 9] more time(s).

All sizes:
Next row: DS, knit to DS, work DS, knit to end.
Next row: Sl 2 pwise wyif, knit to DS, work DS, knit to last 2 sts, sl 2 pwise wyif.
Remove markers.

Main Upper Back
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 2 pwise wyif, knit to last 2 sts, sl 2 pwise wyif.
Rows 3 – 74[80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 112, 118, 124] : Rep Rows 1-2.
Place a removable stitch marker on the last row worked to indicate where to pick up stitches for the Sleeve later on.

Main Lower Back
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: P3tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssp. 4 sts dec'd, 130[142, 156, 172, 184, 200, 214, 230, 242] sts rem.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise wyif, knit to last st, sl 1 pwise wyif.
Rep Rows 3-4 until Main Lower Back measures 9 inches/23 cm, ending with a WS row.

Bind off all sts using the 2-st I-Cord Bind-off method, do not fasten off last st.

Hem
With WS facing and larger needle, pick up and knit 129[141, 155, 171, 183, 199, 213, 229, 241] more sts along lower edge, working between the 2-st I-Cord and the rest of the fabric.
Setup Inc row [RS]: With smaller needle, *K1, p1, kfpb; rep from * to last 4[4, 6, 4, 4, 2, 4, 2, 2] sts, (k1, p1) to end. 42[46, 50, 56, 60, 66, 70, 76, 80] sts inc'd, 172[188, 206, 228, 244, 266, 284, 306, 322] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, work in est'd rib to end.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, work in est'd rib to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 until Hem measures 3 inches/7.5 cm, ending with a WS row.

Bind off using Sewn Tubular Bind-off
Setup Row 1 [RS]: *K1, sl 1 pwise wyif; rep from * end.
Setup Row 2 [WS]: * K1, sl 1 pwise wyif; rep from * to end.
Then use the sewn Tubular Bind Off method (see Pattern Notes for tutorial).

Left Front
With WS facing, sl 2 Saddle sts to larger needle, pick up and knit 46[51, 57, 64, 69, 76, 82, 89, 94] sts along Saddle, working between the two slipped sts and the rest of the fabric. 48[53, 59, 66, 71, 78, 84, 91, 96] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K2, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: DS, p1, turn.
Row 3: K1, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] , turn.
Row 4: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 5: Knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 6: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 7: Knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 8: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 9: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 49[54, 60, 67, 72, 79, 85, 92, 97] sts.
Row 10: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 11: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 50[55, 61, 68, 73, 80, 86, 93, 98] sts.
Row 12: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 13: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 51[56, 62, 69, 74, 81, 87, 94, 99] sts.
Row 14: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 15: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 52[57, 63, 70, 7, 82, 88, 95, 100] sts.
Row 16: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 17: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 53[58, 64, 71, 76, 83, 89, 96, 101] sts.
Row 18: DS, knit to last st, p1, turn.
Row 19: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 54[59, 65, 72, 77, 84, 90, 97, 102] sts.
Row 20: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k1, p1. 1 st inc'd, 55[60, 66, 73, 78, 85, 91, 98, 103] sts.
Row 21: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 56[61, 67, 74, 79, 86, 92, 99, 104] sts.
Row 22: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k1, p1. 1 st inc'd, 57[62, 68, 75, 80, 87, 93, 100, 105] sts.
Row 23: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 58[63, 69, 76, 81, 88, 94, 101, 106] sts.
Row 24: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k1, p1. 1 st inc'd, 59[64, 70, 77, 82, 89, 95, 102, 107] sts.
Row 25: K2, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, knit to end. 1 st inc'd, 60[65, 71, 78, 83, 90, 96, 103, 108] sts.
Row 26: Sl 2 pwise wyif, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k1, p1. 1 st inc'd, 61[66, 72, 79, 84, 91, 97, 104, 109] sts.
Break yarn, place sts on holder or let them sit on the needle while you work the Right Front.

Right Front
With WS facing and larger needle, pick up and knit 46[51, 57, 64, 69, 76, 82, 89, 94] sts along Saddle, working between the two slipped sts and the rest of the fabric, sl 2 Saddle sts to needle. 48[53, 59, 66, 71, 78, 84, 91, 96] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit to end, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, k1, turn.
Row 3: DS, knit to end, turn.
Row 4: P1, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] , turn.
Row 5: DS, knit to end, turn.
Row 6: Purl to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 7: DS, knit to end, turn.
Row 8: Purl to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 9: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 49[54, 60, 67, 72, 79, 85, 92, 97] sts.
Row 10: P1, knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 11: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 50[55, 61, 68, 73, 80, 86, 93, 98] sts.
Row 12: P1, knit to DS, work DS, k 3[4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 13: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 51[56, 62, 69, 74, 81, 87, 94, 99] sts.
Row 14: P1, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] , turn.
Row 15: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 52[57, 63, 70, 75, 82, 88, 95, 100] sts.
Row 16: P1, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8] , turn.
Row 17: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 53[58, 64, 71, 76, 83, 89, 96, 101]
Row 18: P1, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8] turn.
Row 19: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 54[59, 65, 72, 77, 84, 90, 97, 102] sts.
Row 20: P1, k1, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] turn – 1 st inc'd, 55[60, 66, 73, 78, 85, 91, 98, 103] sts.
Row 21: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 56[61, 67, 74, 79, 86, 92, 99, 104] sts.
Row 22: P1, k1, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, k 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] turn. 1 st inc'd, 57[62, 68, 75, 80, 87, 93, 100, 105] sts.
Row 23: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2, turn. 1 st inc'd, 58[63, 69, 76, 81, 88, 94, 101, 106] sts.
Row 24: P1, k1, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] , turn. 1 st inc'd, 59[64, 70, 77, 82, 89, 95, 102, 107] sts.
Row 25: DS, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2. 1 st inc'd, 60[65, 71, 78, 83, 90, 96, 103, 108] sts.
Row 26: P1, k1, M1L, knit to DS, work DS, knit to last 2 sts, sl 2 pwise wyif. 1 st inc'd, 61[66, 72, 79, 84, 91, 97, 104, 109] sts.

Join Fronts
Row 1 [RS]: Working across Right Front, knit to end, cast on 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] sts, knit across Left Front sts to end. 134[146, 160, 176, 188, 204, 218, 234, 246] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 2 pwise wyif, knit to last 2 sts, sl 2 pwise wyif.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: P1, knit to last st, p1.
Complete remainder of Main Upper Front as for Main Upper Back, and complete Main Lower Front as for Main Lower Back.

Right Sleeve
With larger needle and WS facing, working between the two slipped sts and the rest of the fabric, beginning where Right Main Upper Front ends/Main Lower Front begins, pick up and knit 37[40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 59, 62] sts along Front armhole edge (1 st for each garter ridge), break yarn; sl 34 Saddle sts onto needle; with new yarn, pick up and knit 37[40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 59, 62] sts along Back armhole edge (1 st for each garter ridge). 108[114, 120, 126, 132, 138, 146, 252, 158] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, knit to last st, sl 1 pwise wyif. Cont as est'd until piece measures 2 inches/5 cm from pick-up edge, ending with a WS row.
Dec row (RS): K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 2 sts dec'd.
Rep Dec row every 10[10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4] rows 7[1, 12, 5, 21, 12, 3, 26, 21] more times, then every 8[8, 6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 2, 2] rows, 8[16, 7, 16, 2, 13, 25, 4, 11] times. 76[78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92] sts rem.

Work even with no further decs until Sleeve measures 12[12.25, 12.25, 12.25, 11.75, 11.25, 10.75, 10, 9.75] inches/ 30.5[31, 31, 31, 30, 28.5, 27.5, 25.5, 24.5] cm from pick-up edge, ending with a WS row.

Bind off all sts using the 2-st I-Cord Bind-off method, do not fasten off last st.

Cuff
With WS facing and larger needle, pick up and knit 75[77, 79, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91] sts along lower edge, working between the 2-st I-Cord and the rest of the fabric. 76[78, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88, 90, 92] sts.
Setup row [RS]: Working onto smaller needle, *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, work in est'd rib to end.
Row 2: Sl 1 pwise wyif, work in est'd rib to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 until Cuff measures 4 inches/10 cm, ending with a WS row.

Left Sleeve
With larger needle and WS facing, working between the 2 slipped sts and the rest of the fabric, beginning where Main Lower Back begins/Main Upper Back ends, pick up and knit 37[40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 59, 62] sts along Back armhole edge (1 st for each garter ridge), break yarn; sl 34 Saddle sts onto needle; with new yarn, pick up and knit 37[40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 59, 62] sts along Front armhole edge (1 st for each garter ridge). 108[114, 120, 126, 132, 138, 146, 252, 158] sts.

Complete remainder of Left Sleeve as for Right Sleeve

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Wet block piece to finished measurements. Sew Sleeve and side seams using mattress stitch.

Neck Edging
With larger 16 inch/40 cm circular needle and with RS facing, pick up and knit 38[40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54] sts along Back Neck, 34 sts along Left Saddle, 17 sts along Left Front Neck, 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] sts along Left Front Neck cast-on, 17 sts along Right Front Neck, and 34 sts along Right Saddle. 152[156, 160, 164, 168, 172, 176, 180, 184] sts.
Bind off all sts using the 2-st I-Cord method. Sew sides of I-Cord together.

With WS facing and smaller needle, pick up and knit 152[156, 160, 164, 168, 172, 176, 180, 184] sts working between the 2-st I-Cord and the rest of the fabric. Pm and join to work in the rnd.
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnd 1 for 9 more rnds.

SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS:
A – Body Width: 18.75[20.5, 22.5, 24.75, 26.5, 28.75, 30.5, 32.75, 34.5] inches/ 47.5[52, 57, 62.5, 67, 72.5, 77.5, 83.5, 87.5] cm
B – Length to underarm: 12.5 inches/32 cm
C – Total Length: 22[22.5, 23, 23.25, 23.75, 24, 24.75, 25.25, 25.5] inches/ 56[57, 58.5, 59.5, 60.5, 61.5, 63, 64, 65] cm
D – Sleeve Length: 16.5[16.75, 16.75, 16.75, 16.25, 15.75, 15.25, 14.5, 14.25] inches/ 42.25[42.5, 42.5, 42.5, 41.5, 40, 38.5, 37, 36] cm
E – Upper Arm: 15.25[16, 16.75, 17.75, 18.5, 19.25, 20.5, 21.25, 22.25] inches/ 38.5[40.5, 43, 45, 47, 49, 52, 54, 56.5] cm
F – Wrist: 8.25[8.5, 8.75, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 9.75, 10] inches/ 21[21.5, 22, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.5] cm (based on rib gauge)

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Amy has been crazy for yarn ever since she had some down time in between pizza making back in Iowa. She's been the creative director for Universal Yarn, yarn director for Jimmy Beans Wool, and has done knit and crochet designs for most major magazines. Amy is currently the senior creative manager for Premier Yarns. She also does freelance design work, technical editing, crochet chart making, and many other assorted yarny things. When she's not busy with fiber, she's probably playing tennis, dog snuggling, or sitting in the corner being antisocial.