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I've been searching for an afghan pattern that takes advantage of Kureyon's long color runs. This block pattern is based on Barbara G. Walker's Short-Row Stripes square in her Learn to Knit Afghan book. 

The original idea was to knit a square occasionally as I came across new colors of Kureyon, finishing the afghan in time to send it to college with my daughter, who is also a knitter and who loves Kureyon.  

Unable to stop once I began, she instead received it for her 15th birthday.  Version 2 [below] was begun so I could knit in her presence.

photos: Laura Aylor

Approximate, not including edging:
Version 1:  42 x 64 inches
Version 2:  49 x 68 inches


[MC] Noro Kureyon [100% wool; 109yd/100m per 50g skein]
Version 1 [Multicolored blocks]: Various colors; approx. 21 skeins
Version 2: Color: #157; 20 skeins

[CC] Cascade 220 [100% wool; 220yd/201m per 100g skein]
Version 1: #7919
Version 2: #9454

Note: CC is optional; edging may be worked using MC. However, for Version 1, another yarn is required for sewing the panels together. Kureyon is not suitable for sewing, as it tends to break. A smoother, multi-plied wool yarn, such as Cascade 220, is recommended.

US #8/5mm needles
Straight or circular needles may be used for Version 1, but a long circular needle is recommended for Version 2.
1 US #10/6mm needle (used for binding off)
1 US F/3.75mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle


18 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Gauge is not critical for this project.


[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

When you are knitting this pattern, your fabric will have a bumpy texture resembling an egg crate. Don't worry! This is normal; the fabric will become flat and smooth when blocked.

This pattern incorporates many short rows, most of which are only a few stitches long. Turning your work this frequently can be cumbersome and tedious, so the technique of knitting backwards is recommended (though not required). Instructions for this technique can be found here.

Wrap & Turn [W&T]
To wrap and turn on a RS row
, knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.
To wrap and turn on a WS row
, purl to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
Work the "wraps" at the turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap, as follows:
When working a RS row:
Knit to wrapped stitch, insert right needle into both wrap and stitch, and knit them together.
When working a WS row:
Purl to wrapped stitch, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on left needle, purl wrap and stitch together.

Short Row Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 14 sts + 1)
NOTE: When working a stitch which has been wrapped on the previous row or short row, work the wrap together with the stitch it had wrapped (see note above).
Rows 1-3
: Work in stockinette st, beg with a RS row.
Row 4 [WS]: P12, [w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p20] to last 3 sts, w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p9.
Row 5-9: Work in stockinette st, beg with a RS row.
Row 10 [WS]: P5, w&t, k5, turn work, p4, w&t, k4, turn work, p19, [w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p20] to last 10 sts, w&t, k8, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p16, turn work, k5, w&t, p5, turn work, k4, w&t, p4.
Row 11 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 12 [WS]: P all sts.
Repeat Rows 1-12 for Short Row Pattern.

Information about blocking can be found here and here.

Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.

Crochet abbreviations used:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet


Version 1 [above]:
Version 1 is composed of 24 blocks, each worked from 1 ball of Kureyon. Begin working using the end from the outside of the skein. After 6 rows, you will be instructed to switch yarns; at this point, begin working using the end from the inside of the skein, carrying the strand not in use loosely along the side of the work. When instructed to switch yarns again, resume using the end you had started with.

Alternately, you could switch back and forth between two different skeins of yarn.

Panel (Make 24):
Using MC and smaller needle, CO 43 sts.

*Work Rows 1-6 of Short Row Pattern. Switch yarns.
Work Rows 7-12 of Short Row Pattern. Switch yarns.*
Repeat from * to * three times more; do not switch yarns at end of last repeat.

K 1 row. BO all sts purlwise using larger needle.

Steam block panels. (They may not lay completely flat after steam blocking, but they will be easier to seam.)

The completed afghan will be 6 squares long and 4 squares wide. Lay the blocks out to determine how you want to arrange them. When arranging panels, try to ensure that the wave pattern is matched both vertically and horizontally.

The easiest way to assemble the afghan is to first sew the squares into four larger panels, then to sew those panels together; this way, you will not have long seams to sew with unwieldy lengths of yarn.

For each quadrant of the aghan, sew two strips which are each three squares long, then sew those two strips together along their long edges. When all of these quadrant panels are assembled, join the upper two panels, then the lower two panels, along their long edges.
Finally, join the top and bottom halves of the afghan.

Proceed to Edging instructions under Version 2.

Version 2 [right]:
Using MC and smaller needle, CO 183 sts.

Work Rows 1-12 of Short Row Pattern  24 times.

K 1 row. BO all sts purlwise using larger needle.

With RS of work facing, use sl st to attach CC to edge of afghan, approx. 0.5 inch from upper left corner. Work will proceed toward this corner before continuing around the perimeter of the afghan. It may be necessary to start this row a few different times to figure out the best spacing of stitches. You may prefer to practice on a swatch first.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 2 sc to corner, sc in corner; continue to work sc around edge of afghan, working an extra sc into each corner; sl st in 1st sc to join end of round.

Round 2: *Skip 2 sc, work 9 dc in corner st, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, [skip 2 sc, 6 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc] to (approx.) 2 sc before next corner st*; repeat from * to * 3 times more, sl st in sl st at beginning of row.

(When approaching a corner st, it may be necessary to skip more or less than 2 sts on order to work into the corner st. Count ahead.)

Break yarn, draw through last st and pull tight.


Weave in ends.
Wet block thoroughly.


Laura Aylor lives on Lizard Ridge at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  She will probably never publish another pattern, but thought this one was too much fun not to share.  She would love to see pictures if you knit this, email her at the address below.

(By the way, her daughter loved the afghan, even though she had wanted an iPod.)