Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Simply Sock Yarns
Title
beauty shot

beauty shot

Tangy

My latest book, Personal Footprints for Insouciant Sock Knitters, teaches a knitter to create a custom pattern that makes knitting toe-up socks as simple and satisfying as humanly possible. Although the method welcomes stitch patterns that flow from toe to leg, the quiet simplicity of the process has made me fall in love with plain feet and patterned legs.

And so I present you with a cushy sock leg which you can add to any toe-up sock pattern you like, either as a Lapped-Leg Sock with the leg begun separately, so that the leg laps over the upper foot like a roof tile [below left], or you can use the design for a “normal” sock or to make wristwarmers.

If you’ve never worn wristwarmers, you are in for a seasonal sensual treat. As winter blows its chilly breath our way, a pair of wristwarmers and a vest can keep you nearly as warm as a whole sweater. It sounds impossible, but it’s really true. Wristwarmers are quick to knit, take little yarn (make them as short or long as you wish), are welcome gifts (for men as well), and in my experience, knitting them is addictive.

You’ll easily learn the Just One More Round stitch pattern by heart. It consists of knit 2-purl 2 ribbing, which is interrupted after 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and then 10 rounds by a special cable round. The cable has an unusual appearance because it keeps jumping into purl territory, and does not create a twisted rope as is traditional. This, and the longer and longer stretches of ribbing between cable rounds (just one more round between cable rounds, thus the name) produces the columns of mirror image arcs you see in the photos. During cable rounds all stitches are knitted, which serendipitously creates a line of purl ridges at increasingly longer intervals on the reverse side.

And the reverse is so handsome that I think you’ll have trouble deciding which side you like best. I keep wearing my wristwarmers one way, then the other. Sock legs can be turned down to show off the reverse side.

spacer models: Jan McPhetres, Cat Bordhi, Cat's daughter Jenny. The fairies smiled insouciantly but would not reveal their names spacer photos: Cat Bordhi, Willow Rose

SIZE
Custom fit

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MATERIALS
Yarn

Note: For all yarns listed below, suggested needle sizes are listed. You may use double-point needles, 2 circular needles (24 inches recommended) or 1 long circular needle (40 inches recommended). Please use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below, or a comfortable gauge for the yarn you choose -- every knitter's gauge is unique!

For Socks Shown:
spacer Blue Moon Fiber Arts Socks That Rock Heavyweight [100% superwash merino; 350yd/320m per 198g skein]; colors: Coral (“normal” sock and foot of lapped-leg sock, shown above) and Hoofle-Foofle (leg of lapped-leg sock, shown below); 1 skein each color
Note: If using only one color, one skein is needed.
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #2/2.75mm for foot and US #4/3.5mm for leg

For Wristwarmers Shown:
spacer Blue Moon Fiber Arts Silkie Socks that Rock [81% superwash merino, 19% silk; 360yd/329m per 99g skein]; color: Nyame; 1 skein (used double-stranded in sample) shown at top, 2nd from right in group pic
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #4/3.5 mm

OR

spacer Fleece Artist Scotian Silk [65% wool, 35% silk; 410yd/375m per 250g skein]; color: Indian Summer; 1 skein. Shown immediately above, 2nd from left in group pic
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #9/5.5 mm

OR

spacer Blue Moon Fiber Arts De-Vine [100% superwash merino; 225yd/205m per 226g skein]; color: In the Navy; 1 skein. Shown at left in group pic
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #10/6 mm

OR

spacer Claudia Hand-Painted Yarns Worsted Weight Merino [100% merino; 168yd/154m per 100g skein]; color: Boot Camp; 1 skein. Shown at right in group pic
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacerUS #5/3.75 mm

Tools
spacer Yarn needle
spacer Safety pin or split ring marker (optional)

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PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

For wristwarmers shown, I cast on:
48 sts for Blue Moon Fiber Arts Silkie Socks That Rock
36 sts for both Fleece Artist Scotian Silk and Claudia’s Hand-Painted Yarn Worsted Weight Merino
24 sts for Blue Moon Fiber Arts De-Vine.

Directions for Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off can be found here.

A pattern for toe-up socks which can be worked using different weights of yarn can be found here.

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DIRECTIONS
WRISTWARMERS
Note: To begin, you'll start by estimating which multiple of twelve stitches (24, 36, 48, 60, 72, 84, etc.) and which size needle will produce a good fit and a suitable fabric with your yarn.

To figure the stitch number, measure the circumference of your arm, then use this formula:
[Circumference in inches] x [[estimated stitch gauge per inch] = [approximate number of stitches to cast on]

You won’t really know if you have the right number of stitches and tension for your fabric until you have knit about 3 inches, because the ribbing needs some length to establish its accordion behavior. Since the fabric is so elastic, you have a good chance of getting it right the first time out. If the wristwarmers turn out too big, they’ll make great leg warmers, keeping that cold air from rushing up your legs
.

CO a multiple of 12 sts. Divide sts between needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not  to twist. If desired, place safety pin or split ring marker in work to indicate beginning of round.

Just One More Round Pattern
Ribbed Round:
[K1, p2, k1] to end.
Repeat this round 4 times more.
Cable Round: [K1, C4B, k2, C4F, k1] to end.

Work 6 ribbed rounds, then work a cable round.
Work 7 ribbed rounds, then work a cable round.
Work 8 ribbed rounds, then work a cable round.
Work 9 ribbed rounds, then work a cable round.
You may work to any number of cable rounds, making the wristwarmers short or long.
Finish by working in 2x2 Rib as established for about an inch, then bind off using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off.

SIMPLE JUST ONE MORE ROUND SOCKS
Knit this sock at any gauge and with any yarn you like, just be sure you are producing sock fabric, which is dense yet elastic. Work a sock foot in stockinette st using one of the patterns in Personal Footprints for Insouciant Sock Knitters, or any toe-up sock pattern you know and like (see Pattern Notes above for a link to another pattern that can be used). K 3 rounds more, ending at center back of leg.

Pause to determine how many increases you may need for the leg. If your current stitch total is a multiple of 12, you may choose to simply go up 2 needle sizes for the leg. If your st total is not already a multiple of 12, you’ll need to knit one more round, increasing sts evenly as needed up to the next multiple of 12 sts.

If you add 1-6 stitches,
go up 2 needle sizes for the leg.
If you add 7-11 stitches,
go up 1 needle size for the leg.

Begin Just One More Round pattern as for Wristwarmers. When leg is desired length, finish as for Wristwarmers.

LAPPED-LEG SOCKS
Work as for Simple Socks until increases have been worked for leg. Break yarn and set aside.

Begin Leg:
The leg begins with 2x3 ribbing, which soon decreases to 2x2 ribbing, so you will initially cast on more sts than are waiting on the set-aside sock. If your set-aside sock has 36[48, 60, 72, 84, 96] sts, you will cast on 45[60, 75, 90, 105, 120] sts.

Using larger needles and desired color for leg, CO number of sts indicated above. Divide sts between needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

2x3 Ribbed Round: [K1, p3, k1] to end.
Repeat this round until work measures 0.75 inch.
Next Round: [K1, p2tog, p1, k1] to end. 36[48, 60, 72, 84, 96] sts (same number as for sock).

Join Leg to Sock:
Arrange sock inside leg as shown in photo above.
Using leg yarn and larger needles, [k 1 st from leg together with 1 st from sock] until all sock and leg sts have been joined. You should have 36[48, 60, 72, 84, 96] sts on the larger needle(s). Put away the smaller needle(s).

Work ribbed round as for Wristwarmers, then work cable round.
Work 5 ribbed rounds, then work a cable round.
Complete as for Simple Socks.

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FINISHING
Weave in ends.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Cat Bordhi’s bed has foot-shaped indentations because she keeps standing up and jumping out of bed in the middle of the night with new knitting ideas. That, and a love of getting lost and making mistakes account for most of her original ideas.

Her latest book, Personal Footprints for Insouciant Sock Knitters, can be found at your local yarn shop.

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