Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Amy Gaines Original Patterns
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Inspired by photos of the English monarchy relaxing in their country estates, this is a classic, elegant and comfortable sweater.

Rich in texture and easy-to-knit, Victoria is knit with a standard worsted weight yarn (here it is shown in Louet’s MerLin) on size 8 needles.

The pattern is written for women’s sizes XS to 5X (actual chest measurements from 32-60 inches). The sizing is "traditional" meaning that the body allows for more ease than you might expect while the sleeves are lean. This keeps the fit looking classic, not sloppy.

You will wear and enjoy this sweater for many years to come.

spacer model: Emmanuella Herman spacer photos: Chrissie Knight

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]  (Shown in size M)

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 35[38.5, 40.75, 44, 47.5, 52, 56.5, 60, 64] inches
Length: 25[25.5, 27, 27.5, 28, 28.5, 29, 29, 29] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Louet MerLin [70% merino wool, 30% linen; 156yd/143m per 100g skein]; color: #48 Aqua; 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #8/5mm straight needles
spacer 1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer

Notions
spacer Stitch markers
spacer Split ring markers or safety pins
spacer Stitch holders
spacer Yarn needle
spacer 9 buttons, 0.75 inch diameter; buy buttons after sweater is complete to ensure correct size

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GAUGE

spacer18 sts / 24 rows = 4 inches in Moss Stitch
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

1x1 Rib
(Worked over an odd number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 1x1 Rib.

Moss Stitch
(Worked over an odd number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: P2, [k1, p1] to last st, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 3 [RS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Row 4 [WS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for Moss Stitch.

w2tog (work 2 together in pattern): If the second st on the left needle is a k st, work [k2tog]. If it is a p st, work [p2tog].

w2tog tbl (work 2 together in pattern through back loops): If the next st on the left needle is a k st, work [ssk]. If it is a p st, work [p2tog tbl].

DIRECTIONS
BACK
CO 79[87, 91, 99, 107, 117, 127, 135, 145] sts.

Work 21 rows in 1x1 Rib, beginning and ending with WS rows.

Work in Moss Stitch until work measures 17[17.5, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18] inches, ending with a WS row.

Note: Length of body to underarm is calculated to ensure that front neckline shaping works out properly. If body length is altered, front neckline shaping will need to be adjusted. Alternately, fewer buttonholes may be worked before beginning front neckline shaping.

Shape Armholes:
BO 5[7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 69[73, 77, 83, 89, 97, 101, 107, 115] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: P1, w2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, p1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more. 59[63, 67, 73, 79, 87, 91, 97, 105] sts.

Work Decrease Row.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6] times more, then work Decrease Row once more. 51[55, 59, 63, 69, 77, 77, 81, 89] sts.

Work 45[45, 51, 53, 57, 61, 63, 63, 61] rows in pattern, ending with a WS row. Work measures 7.5[7.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 10.5, 10.5] inches from beginning of armhole.

Shape Shoulders and Neckline:

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only:

BO -[-, -, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, 55, 61, 67, 67, 71, 77] sts.

All Sizes:
Next Row [RS]: BO 5[5, 5, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work 14[14, 15, 14, 17, 19, 19, 21, 23] sts in pattern (15[15, 16, 15, 18, 20, 20, 22, 24] sts on right needle), place all sts just worked on st holder for right shoulder; BO next 11[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17] sts, work in pattern to end. 20[20, 21, 19, 22, 25, 25, 27, 30] sts.

Left Shoulder:
Row 1 [WS]: BO 5[5, 5, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 15[15, 16, 15, 18, 20, 20, 22, 24] sts.

Row 2 [RS]: BO 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 12[12, 12, 11, 13, 14, 14, 16, 18] sts.

Row 3 [WS]: BO 5[5, 5, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 7[7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 11, 12] sts.

Row 4 [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 6, 6] sts, work in pattern to end.

BO remaining 5[5, 5, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts.

Right Shoulder:
Place held sts of right shoulder on needle with WS facing and join yarn at neck edge.

Row 1 [WS]: BO 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 12[12, 12, 11, 13, 14, 14, 16, 18] sts.

Row 2 [RS]: BO 5[5, 5, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 7[7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 11, 12] sts.

Row 3 [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 6, 6] sts, work in pattern to end.

BO remaining 5[5, 5, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts.

RIGHT FRONT
CO 45[49, 51, 55, 59, 63, 69, 73, 77] sts.
Work 9 rows in 1x1 Rib, beginning and ending with WS rows.

Buttonhole Row [RS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, yo, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
As you work right front, work Buttonhole Row every tenth row.

Continue in pattern until 21 rows of 1x1 Rib have been completed, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Work 17 sts in 1x1 Rib as set, place marker, work in Moss Stitch to end.
This row sets pattern for right front. Continue in pattern, working buttonholes as set, until eighth Buttonhole Row has been worked.
Work 1 WS row in pattern. Work measures approx. 13.5 inches.

Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping begins before neckline shaping is complete.

Shape Neckline:
Important: As you shape neckline, work ninth and last buttonhole 10 rows after eighth buttonhole, as set.

Sizes XS, S, M, L Only:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: P1, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 14[16, 18, 19, -, -, -, -, -] times more, then work Neckline Decrease Row once more. 16[18, 20, 21, -, -, -, -, -] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: P1, k2tog, work in pattern to end.
Rows 2-4: Work all sts in pattern.
Row 5 [RS]: Work as for Row 1.
Row 6 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Repeat Rows 1-6 -[-, -, -, 2, 4, 4, 5, 5] times more. -[-, -, -, 6, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

Work Rows 1-4 -[-, -, -16, 13, 14, 14, 13] times. -[-, -, -, 22, 23, 24, 26, 25] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

All Sizes:
AT THE SAME TIME, when work measures same as back to underarm, ending with a RS row, shape armhole as for back.

When all neckline and armhole shaping is complete, 15[15, 15, 16, 18, 20, 20, 20, 24] sts remain.

When work measures same as back to beginning of shoulder
Row 1 [WS]: BO 5[5, 5, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 10[10, 10, 12, 14, 15, 15, 15, 18] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 5[5, 5, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 12] sts.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
BO remaining 5 sts.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only:
Row 5 [WS]: BO -[-, -, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end.
Row 6 [RS]: Work all sts in pattern.
BO remaining -[-, -, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts.

LEFT FRONT
CO 45[49, 51, 55, 59, 63, 69, 73, 77] sts.
Work 21 rows in 1x1 Rib, beginning and ending with WS rows.

Next Row [RS]: Work in Moss Stitch to last 17 sts, place marker, work in 1x1 Rib as set to end.

This row sets pattern for right front. Continue in pattern until work measures same as right front to beginning of neckine shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape neckline:
AT THE SAME TIME, when work measures same as back to underarm, shape armhole as for back.

Sizes XS, S, M, L Only:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, p1.

Work 3 rows in pattern.

Repeat these 4 rows 14[16, 18, 19, -, -, -, -, -] times more, then work Neckline Decrease Row once more. 16[18, 20, 21, -, -, -, -, -] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only:
Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, p1.

Rows 2-4: Work all sts in pattern.

Row 5 [RS]: Work as for Row 1.

Row 6 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.

Repeat Rows 1-6 -[-, -, -, 2, 4, 4, 5, 5] times more. -[-, -, -, 6, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

Work Rows 1-4 -[-, -, -16, 13, 14, 14, 13] times. -[-, -, -, 22, 23, 24, 26, 25] sts have been decreased at neckline edge.

All Sizes:
When all neckline and armhole shaping is complete, 15[15, 15, 16, 18, 20, 20, 20, 24] sts remain.

When work measures same as back to beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row, shape shoulder as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 5[5, 5, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. 10[10, 10, 12, 14, 15, 15, 15, 18] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 5[5, 5, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 12] sts.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
BO remaining 5 sts.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X Only:
Row 5 [RS]: BO -[-, -, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts, work in pattern to end.
Row 6 [WS]: Work all sts in pattern.
BO remaining -[-, -, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] sts.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
CO 39[43, 45, 47, 53, 55, 55, 55, 55] sts.
Work 21 rows in 1x1 Rib, beginning and ending with WS rows.
Work 2 rows in Moss Stitch.

Increase Row [RS]: P1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, p1.
Work 7[7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 5, 5, 3] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 6, 6, 4] rows 8[8, 8, 9, 4, 2, 6, 3, 18] times more, then work Increase Row once more. 59[63, 65, 69, 65, 63, 71, 65, 95] sts.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X Only:
Work -[-, -, -, 5, 5, 3, 3, -] rows in pattern.
Work Increase Row.
Repeat these -[-, -, -, 6, 6, 4, 4, -] rows -[-, -, -, 5, 8, 7, 12, -] times more. -[-, -, -, 7, 81, 87, 91, -] sts.

All Sizes:
Continue in pattern until work measures 18 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 5[7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 49[49, 51, 53, 59, 61, 61, 63, 65] sts.

Decrease Row 1 [RS]: P1, w2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog tbl, p1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. 37[37, 39, 41, 47, 49, 49, 51, 53] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1.
Work 2 rows in pattern.

Decrease Row 2 [WS]: K1, w2tog tbl, work in pattern to last 3 sts, w2tog, k1.
Work 2 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6 rows 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] times more. 25[25, 23, 25, 31, 29, 29, 31, 33] sts.

Work Decrease Row 1. Work Decrease Row 2.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 0, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2] times more.
For sizes XS, S, M, 2X, 3X and 4X only, work Decrease Row 1 once more.

For all sizes, BO remaining 15[15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21] sts.  
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FINISHING
Weave in ends and block all pieces to dimensions shown.
Sew shoulder seams.

Collar:
Using circular needle, with RS facing and beginning at right front neckline edge, pick up and k 1 st in each row along right neckline edge, 1 st in each bound off st across back neck edge, and 1 st in each row along left front neckline edge. Count sts; collar is worked over an odd number of sts. If you have an even number of sts, decrease 1 st when working Row 1.
Row 1 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 2 [RS]: Ssk, [k1, p1] to last 3 sts, k1, k2tog.
Row 3 [WS]: P2tog, [k1, p1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog tbl.
Repeat Rows 2-3 ten times more. BO all sts in pattern.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams. Weave in remaining ends.
Sew buttons to front edge opposite buttonholes.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Lori, who lives in Princeton, NJ, with her family, has been knitting and designing for herself for over 30 years. Two years ago, she decided to retire from her “day job” and plunge headlong into hand-knit design.

You can find more of Lori’s designs at loriversaci.com.

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