by Mercè Janer Olives

Sometimes I knit just for the sake of knitting, just swatches. I was doing that, putting some cables here and there and making them twist just to play, without any pattern. When I stopped and looked at it, I instantly loved it so I decided to use a refined version of the first design in something that would actually have some use. That's how these socks were born.

I love to look at yarns that are very variegated. They are very nice on the skein, but to knit with I usually prefer semisolids -- yarns that have different shades of the same color.

With the creation of such a yarn in mind, I space dyed my roving with different greens [see green sock below], shades that were close to each other but not quite the same, then I spun it very finely to get a 3 ply fingering yarn. I wanted to make a navajo ply yarn because it's the technique that better respects the sequence of colors of the roving, and I loved my roving. When it was done, it felt like the perfect yarn for this project. It has some subtle variegation that cheers up the stockinette parts, but is not enough to overshadow the cable pattern.

SIZE
SIZE
S [M, L], to fit foot circumference of 8[9, 10] inches. 
Shown in size M.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Leg length (adjustable): 17 cm/6.8 inches
Leg and foot circumference (unstretched): 7.5[8.5, 9.5]
Foot length: adjustable to fit

MATERIALS
Fiber
World of Wool [70% superwash wool/ 30% nylon; combed top]; color: undyed, I dyed it myself in greens using acid dyes; 4 [4, 4] ounces

Finished Yarn:
Wraps per inch: 21 (final yarn)
Yardage used: 330m
Plies: 3 ply (navajo ply)
Drafting method: short draw

Commercial Yarn Alternative
Regia 4 ply color [75% superwash wool, 25% polyamide; 230yd/210m per 50g ball]; color: 01932, blue; 2 [2, 2] ball

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #1.5/2.5mm double-pointed needles
OR
1 US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle for magic loop
OR
2 US #1.5/2.5mm circular needles for two-circulars

	Spinning Tool: Louet S10 spinning wheel: single drive, bobbin drive.

Tools
Cable needle
Yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

A great tubular cast on method is the long tail tubular cast on, explained by Ysolda Teague here.

Charts
The charts for this pattern are very large. Each fits on a letter-sized page. Click below and print each resulting page. Assemble pages if desired. Be sure "print to fit" is not selected before printing.

leg chart [top portion]
leg chart [bottom portion]

DIRECTIONS

Right Sock Setup round:
Sizes S, M: Place marker at start of round, p2, k2, [k1, p1] to end of round.
Size L: K1, p1, place marker, p2, k2, [k1, p1] to end of round.

Left Sock Setup round: [K1, p1] 7[8, 10] times, place marker,[k1, p1] 5 times, k2, p2, [k1, p1] to end.

Both Socks
Cuff round: [K1, p1] to marker as required, slip marker, work Chart over next 14 sts, [k1, p1] to end of round.

Continue until row 16 of Chart is complete.

Leg round: K to marker, work Chart over next 14 sts, k to end of round.

Continue until row 72 of Chart is complete, or leg is desired length, ending after an even number chart row. Once Chart row 92 is complete, repeat rows 17-92.

Heel flap
Turn work so that WS is facing. Heel flap will be worked back and forth in rows over last 28[32, 36] sts of the round.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p27[31, 35]
Row 2 [RS]: [Sl1, k1] 14[16, 18] times.
Repeat last 2 rows 12[14, 16] times more (26[30, 34] rows total).
Work Row 1 once more.

Turn heel
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k16[18, 21] k2tog, k1, turn
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k8, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1, k10, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 9 [WS]: Sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 10 [RS]: Sl1, k14, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 11 [WS]: Sl1, p15, p2tog, p1, turn

Size S only:
Row 12 [RS]: Sl1, k to end (18 sts).
Proceed to next step, Create Gusset.

Size M only:
Row 12 [RS]: Sl1, k16, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 13 [WS]: Sl1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 14 [RS]: Sl1, k to end (20 sts).
Proceed to next step, Create Gusset.

Size L only:
Row 12 [RS]: Sl1, k16, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 13 [WS]: Sl1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 14 [RS]: Sl1, k18, k2tog, k1, turn
Row 15 [WS]: Sl1, p19, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 16 [RS]: Sl1, k to end (22 sts).
Proceed to next step, Create Gusset.

Create Gusset
With the same needle pick up and knit 15[17, 19] stitches along the edge of the heel flap, using the slipped sts as a guide; this is the start of the instep, place a marker if desired.  On instep sts, knit to marker, slm, work Chart over next 14 sts, k to end of instep sts. Place marker if desired. 15[17, 19] stitches along the edge of the heel flap, using the slipped sts as a guide. Knit 9[10, 11], this will be the new beginning of the round.  Rearrange stitches or place markers as desired. 76[86, 96] sts.

Decrease Gusset
Gusset round 1: K to 3 sts before start of instep, k2tog, k1; k to marker, slm, work Chart over next 14 sts, k to end of instep; k1, ssk, k to end of round.
Gusset round 2: Knit to marker, work Chart over next 14 sts, k to end of round.
Repeat the last 2 rounds 9[10, 11] times more. 56[64, 72] sts.

Foot
Foot Round: Knit to marker, slm, work chart over next 14 sts, k to end.
Continue until you are 1.5[1.75, 2] inches short of desired foot length.

Toe
Round 1: knit until 3 stitches to end of first needle, ssk, k1, k1, k2tog, knit until 3 stitches to end of 3rd needle, k2tog, k1, k1, ssk, knit to end of row.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat last 2 rounds 8[9, 10] times more or until 20[24, 28] stitches remain. Divide these stitches on 2 needles, cut yarn leaving a long tail and graft together.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block as desired.

Lover of all things related to fiber and numbers, Mercè is trying to find her way in life from Menorca, Spain.

To find out more, check out her blog.