by Mary the Hobbit

I designed this sock to be Xtreme Lace. Mega Lace. Super Lace Galore. All lace, all the time. But if that much lace is just too, well, lacy for you, there's a simple fix. Just add a plain row after each lace row and the fabric will be more substantial but still have plenty of holes.See Pattern Notes for details.

This is a top-down sock with heel flap and gussets. The gussets are lower than usual and the instep is more than half the width of the foot in order to fit in more of the lace pattern.

SIZE
Women’s S [M, L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Leg and Foot Circumference: 7 [8, 9] inches unstretched.
Foot Length: adjustable to fit
Leg Height: 6 inches (purple socks), 4.5 inches (white socks)

MATERIALS
Yarn
Purple socks:
Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock [80% superwash merino, 20% nylon; 435 yds per 100g skein]; color: Blackberry; 1 skein.

White socks:
Lisa Souza Timaru [65% superwash merino/35% rayon from bamboo; 500 yds per 100 g skein]; color: Mother of Pearl; 1 skein.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1/2.25mm needles for working in the round

Notions
yarn needle
stitch markers

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Casting on: I recommend the Old Norwegian Cast-on, also called the German Twisted cast on. See this video by Lucy Neatby for more information.

CDD [centered double decrease]: Slip 2 sts knitwise, then k1 and pass the 2 slipped sts over the knit stitch. (This stitch is easier to work if you slip the 2 sts one after the other instead of together. The resulting double decrease will lean slightly to the left, but it's not noticeable in the midst of all that lace.)

Chevron Lace Pattern (multiple of 8 sts and 5 rows)
Pattern Row 1: K1, SSK, [k1, YO] twice, k1, k2tog.
Pattern Row 2: Same as Pattern Row 1.
Pattern Row 3: K1, YO, SSK, k3, k2tog, YO.
Pattern Row 4: K2, YO, SSK, k1, k2tog, YO, k1.
Pattern Row 5: K3, YO, CDD, YO, k2.

The Chevron Lace Pattern is adapted from Dainty and Daintier Chevron Lace patterns in Barbara Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. Working YOs and decreases on every row results in a very open, lacy fabric; adding a plain knit row after each lace pattern row makes a less "dainty", firmer fabric.

The socks photographed illustrate two variants:
Variant 1 (most lace): Purple sock, with most lace
Variant 2 (mixed lace): White sock, with most lace on the leg, switching to less dainty lace on the foot.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff
Ribbing round: [K1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1] around.
Work ribbing round once more.

Leg
Leg round: Work Chevron Lace pattern around.

Work as set until sock measures 6 inches, ending with round 5 of the Chevron Lace pattern.

Heel
Size S heel setup round: K14, pm for start of instep; k2, work Chevron Lace row 1 three times, k2. The next 28 sts of the round will become the heel flap. Rearrange stitches as required and proceed to Heel Flap.

Size M heel setup round: K16, pm for start of instep, work Chevron Lace row 1 three times; k1, SSK, [k1, YO] twice, k3. 1 st increased. 33 instep sts.
The next 32 sts of the round will become the heel flap. Rearrange stitches as required and proceed to Heel Flap.

Size L heel setup round: K18, pm for start of instep, k3, YO, k1, k2tog, work Chevron Lace row 1 three times, k1, SSK, [k1, YO] twice, k1. 1 st increased.  37 instep sts.
The next 36 sts of the round will become the heel flap. Rearrange stitches as required and proceed to Heel Flap.

Heel Flap
Size S Heel setup row [RS]: Work Small Heel Flap Chart setup row 0. 2 sts increased, 30 heel flap sts.
Starting with row 1 (WS), work two full repeats of Small Heel Flap Chart rows 1-10, then work rows 1-8 once more. WS is facing for next row.
Proceed to Final Heel Flap Rows.

Size M Heel setup row [RS]: K1, k2 tbl, [k1, YO] twice, k1, k2tog; work Chevron Lace row 2 twice, k1, SSK, [k1, YO] twice, k3. 2 sts increased, 34 heel
From here, you’ll work the RS rows as per the Chevron Lace chart, and the WS rows are worked plain, as follows:

Heel row 1 and all following odd rows [WS]: Sl1, p33.
Heel row 2 [RS]: Sl1, work Chevron Lace row 3 four times, k1.
Heel row 4 [RS]: Sl1, work Chevron Lace row 4 four times, k1.
Heel row 6 [RS]: Sl1, work Chevron Lace row 5 four times, k1.
Heel row 8 [RS]: Sl1, work Chevron Lace row 1 four times, k1.
Heel row 10 [RS]: Sl1, work Chevron Lace row 2 four times, k1.
Repeat Heel rows 1-10 twice more, and work rows 1-2 once more. WS is facing for next row.

Proceed to Final Heel Flap Rows.

Size L setup row [RS]: K2, work Chevron Lace row 2 four times, k2. 36 heel flap sts.

From here, you’ll work the RS rows as per the Chevron Lace chart, and the WS rows are worked plain, as follows:

Heel row 1 and all following odd rows [WS]: Sl1, p35.
Heel row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k1, work Chevron Lace row 3 four times, k2.
Heel row 4 [RS]: Sl1, k1, work Chevron Lace row 4 four times, k2.
Heel row 6 [RS]: Sl1, k1,  work Chevron Lace row 5 four times, k2.
Heel row 8 [RS]: Sl1, k1, work Chevron Lace row 1 four times, k2.
Heel row 10 [RS]: Sl1, k1, work Chevron Lace row 2 four times, k2.
Repeat Heel rows 1-10 twice more, and work Heel rows 1-4 once more. WS is facing for next row.
Continue with Final Heel Flap Rows.

Heel Turn
Heel turn row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p17[19, 20], p2tog, p1, turn.
Heel turn row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k7, SSK, k1, turn.

Heel turn row 3 [WS]: Sl1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
 
Heel turn row 4 [RS]: Sl1, k9, SSK, k1, turn.

Heel turn row 5 [WS]: Sl1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.

Heel turn row 6 [RS]: Sl1, k11, SSK, k1, turn.

Heel turn row 7 [WS]: Sl1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.

Heel turn row 8 [RS]: Sl1, k13, SSK, k1, turn.

Heel turn row 9 [WS]: Sl1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.

Heel turn row 10 [RS]: Sl1, k15, SSK, k1, turn.

Size S only:
Heel turn row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.

Heel turn row 12 [RS]: Sl 1, k16, SSK, turn. 18 sts rem.
Proceed to Gussets.

Sizes M & L continue:
Heel turn row 11 [WS]: Sl1, p16, p2tog, p1, turn.

Heel turn row 12 [RS]: Sl1, k17, SSK, k1, turn.

Size M only:
Heel turn row 13 [WS]: Sl 1, p18, p2tog, turn.

Heel turn row 14 [RS]: Sl 1, k18, SSK. 20 sts rem.

Size L only:
Heel turn row 13 [WS]: Sl1, p18, p2tog, p1, turn.

Heel turn row 14 [RS]: Sl1, k19, SSK, k1.  22 sts rem.

Gussets
Sizes S & M, Gusset Setup
Round 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit 16[18, -] sts along edge of heel flap; k2[0, -], work Chevron Lace row 2 3[4,-] times, k2[1, -]; pick up and knit 16[17, -] sts along other edge of heel flap; k9[10, -] and pm for end of round (center of sole).
78[88, -] sts total - 28[33, -] instep sts and 50[55, -] on the sole.

Round 2: K9[10, -]; k16[18, -] tbl; k2[0, -], work Chevron Lace row 3 3[4, -] times, k2[1, -]; k16[17, -] tbl, knit to end of round.

Round 3: K23[24, -], pm for new start of instep. K4, work Chevron Lace row 4 3[4, -] times, k5, pm for new end of instep; k to end of round.

Size L, Gusset Setup
Round 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit -[-, 20] sts along edge of heel flap; k3, YO, k1, k2tog; work Chevron Lace row 2 three times, k1, SSK, k1, YO, k3; pick up and knit -[-, 19] sts along other edge of heel flap; k-[-, 11] and pm for end of round (center of sole). -[-, 98] sts total - -[-, 37] instep sts and -[-, 61] on the sole.

Round 2: K-[-, 11]; k-[-, 20] tbl; k4, k2tog, YO; work Chevron Lace row 3 three times, k1, YO, SSK, k4; k-[-, 19] tbl, knit to end of round.

Round 3: K-[-, 25], pm for new start of instep. K4, work Chevron Lace row 4 for -[-, 5] times, k5, pm for new end of instep; k to end of round.

All sizes continue: 78[88,98] sts total - 45[47,49] sole sts and 33[41, 49] instep sts.

Rearrange sts on your needles as required.

From here on, the Foot Chart is used across the instep sts. Start with the Foot Pattern row number corresponding to your next pattern row.

Gusset round 1: K to last 2 sts of sole, k2tog; work across instep sts as per Foot Pattern; SSK, k to end. 2 sts decreased.
Gusset round 2: K to instep sts; work instep in pattern from Foot Pattern Chart; k to end of round.

Repeat Gusset rounds 1 & 2 8[9, 10] more times until 27 sts rem on sole. 60[68, 76] sts total- 33[41, 49] instep sts, 27 sole sts.

Foot
Foot round: K to instep sts; work instep as set from Foot Chart; k to end of round.
Work Foot round until the foot is 2 inches shorter than desired length, ending after Foot Pattern row 2.

Toe
Setup round: Knit around.

Round 1: K19, (SSK, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo) 2[3, 4] times, SSK, k3, k2tog, k to end of round. 2 sts decreased on instep; 31[39, 47] instep sts, 27 sole sts.
Round 2: Knit around.

Round 3: K19; (SSK, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo) 2[3, 4] times, SSK, k1, k2tog; k to end of round. 2 sts decreased on instep; 29[37, 45] instep sts, 27 sole sts.

Round 4: K13[13, 15], k2tog, k26[34, 38], SSK, k to end of round. 2 sts decreased total; 28[36, 43] instep sts, 26[26, 27] sole sts.

Round 5: K18, (CDD, yo, k5, yo) 2[3, 4] times, CDD, k to end of round. 2 instep sts decreased. 26[34, 41] instep sts; 26[26, 27] sole sts.

The toe is completed in stockinette.  Arrange stitches so that instep and sole contain equal numbers: 13[15, 17] sole + 26[30, 34] instep + 13[15, 17] sole.
Round 6: Knit around.

Round 7:  K to last 3 sts of sole, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k to last 4 sts of instep, SSK, k3, SSK, k to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Round 8: Knit around.

Rep Rounds 7 & 8 4[5, 7] more times, until 32[36, 36] sts rem.
Work Round 7 only until 16[20, 20] sts rem.
Final row, setup for grafting: K to end of sole sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.

Cuff
Ribbing round: [K1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1] around.
Work ribbing round once more.

Leg
Leg round: Work Chevron Lace pattern
Work as set until sock measures 3.75 inches, ending with round 5 of the Chevron Lace pattern.

*Work round 1 of Chevron Lace pattern. Knit one round.
Work round 2 of Chevron Lace pattern. Knit one round.
Work round 3 of Chevron Lace pattern. Knit one round.
Work round 4 of Chevron Lace pattern. Knit one round.
Work round 5 of Chevron Lace pattern. Knit one round.
Repeat from * once more.

Heel
Work Heel setup, Flap and Turn as per Purple Sock.

Gussets
Setup Round 1: With RS facing, pick up and knit 16[18, 20] sts along edge of heel flap; k28[33, 37]; pick up and knit 16[17, 19] sts along other edge of heel flap; k9[10, 11] and pm for end of round (center of sole).
78[88, 98] sts total - 28[33, 37] instep sts and 50[55, 61] on the sole.

Sizes S & M only, Round 2: K9[10, -]; k16[18, -] tbl; k2[0, -], work Chevron Lace row 2 3[4, -] times, k2[1,  -]; k16[17, -] tbl, knit to end of round.

Size L only, Round 2: K-[-, 11]; k-[-, 20] tbl; k3, YO, k1, k2tog; rep Chevron Lace row 2 three times; k1, SSK, k1, YO, k3; k-[-, 19] tbl, knit to end of round.

Round 3: K23[24, 25], pm for new start of instep. K33[41, 49], pm for new end of instep; k to end of round.

78[88,98] sts total - 45[47,49] sole sts and 33[41, 49] instep sts.
Rearrange sts on your needles as required.

From here on, the Foot Chart is used across the instep sts. Start with Foot Pattern row 3 on the next round.

Gusset round 1: K to last 2 sts of sole, k2tog; work across instep sts as per Foot Pattern; SSK, k to end. 2 sts decreased.
Gusset round 2: Knit around.

Repeat Gusset rounds 1 & 2 8[9, 10] more times until 27 sts rem on sole. 60[68, 76] sts total- 33[41, 49] instep sts, 27 sole sts.

Complete as per Purple Sock, starting with Foot.

FINISHING
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft top and bottom of toe together. Weave in ends.

Mary the Hobbit is a computer programmer turned obsessive sock knitter who loves experimenting with stitch patterns, sock constructions and new techniques. A Silicon Valley expat, she now lives in the Biggest Little City in the World with The Spouse and the Princess Bird.

You can see her projects and patterns on Ravelry.