Canoe pullover : Knittyspin First Fall 2013

by Amy King

We've carried the wool/flax fiber in the shop for a while and I often get asked what to do with it. It is a really unique fiber that sounds scary to many because there is flax in the title. The amazing thing about this fiber is that the 60% wool content makes it so easy to spin. It's a little dry feeling but once you get use to it, it's amazing.

A little wash with a beating and the yarn becomes drapey and soft. It's a wonder to spin. Even those that were hesitant to spin it have been drawn in by the lovely finished yarn and come back for more. It makes great shawls and scarves as one might suspect. It can also be a really nice lightweight summer/spring sweater. It doesn't have a lot of spring back thanks to the flax, but the drape makes up for it.

If you knit in a tight gauge for the yarn that you make, you will find there isn't a ton of sagging in the finished garment like some linen yarns can have. Of course, if you want movement in the final garment you can knit at an airy gauge and achieve a much more drapey item. This sweater was made with no ease. A fitted sweater, perfect for spring and summer or if you live in tropical weather, it will be great for the winter as well.

model: Amy King

photos: James Marston


SIZE XXXS [XXS, XS, S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X] shown in size S with no ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52] inches
Length: 19.5[20.5, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24.5, 25.5] inches

MATERIALS
Fiber:
Spunky Eclectic [60% Merino wool/40% flax; sliver]; color: Forest; 10[12, 12, 16, 16, 20, 20, 20, 24, 24, 28, 28] ounces
Note: Yarn was spun by Sandi Misenar and the sample was also expertly knit by Sandi.

Spinning Tool: Schacht Matchless; hi speed whorl 15:1; double drive for singles and Scotch tension to ply
Lazy Kate: Schacht Matchless Kate

Finished Yarn:
Wraps per inch: 11
Ply: 2
Yardage used for sample: 1020 yards
Drafting Method: short draw

Commercial Yarn Alternative
Berroco Comfort [210 yards per 100g skein]; 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US#5/3.75mm double-point needles or 1 32-inch or longer US#5/3.75mm circular needle for magic loop
US #6/4mm double-point needles or 1 32-inch or longer US #6/4 mm circular needle for magic loop
US#5/3.75mm circular to work the body in the round (length decided by the size of your sweater (circular should be a couple of inches shorter than your size)
US #6/4mm circular to work the body in the round (length decided by the size of your sweater (circular should be a couple of inches shorter than your size)

Tools
2 stitch markers
yarn needle
smooth waste yarn for holding sts

GAUGE

20 sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, blocked

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The body of the sweater is worked in the round from the bottom up until the arm shaping. The neck and shoulder shaping is worked with short rows. The sleeves are worked from the bottom up until the cap shaping. This is so that the sweater has minimal sewing with all the shaping of a set in sleeve.

3x1 ribbing: *K3, p1; rep from *

DIRECTIONS

BODY
Using the smaller size needle, CO 76[80, 86, 90, 96, 100, 106, 110, 116, 120, 126, 130] sts, PM, CO 76[80, 86, 90, 96, 100, 106, 110, 116, 120, 126, 130] sts, PM.

Join to work in the round being careful not to twist your sts. 152[160, 172, 180, 192, 200, 212, 220, 232, 240, 252, 260] sts].

Work in 3x1 ribbing for 6 rounds (some of the ribbing sections will cross the markers, if this bothers you, you can choose to place the markers after you do the ribbing).

Change to larger needles.
Start working in st st.

When your piece measures 2.5[3, 3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4] inches from the CO edge start working the waist decreases as follows:
Decrease rnd: *K1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before the next marker, ssk, k1, SM, rep from * once more. 148[156, 168, 176, 188, 196, 208, 216, 228, 236, 248, 256] sts. 4 sts decreased.

Work 4 rnds even.

Repeat last five rnds 2 more times. 140[148, 160, 168, 180, 188, 200, 208, 220, 228, 240, 248] sts. 8 sts decreased.

Work 11 rnds even.

Start working the bust increases as follows:
Increase rnd: *K1, M1, work to 1 st before the marker, M1, K1, SM; rep from * once more. 148[156, 168, 176, 188, 196, 208, 216, 228, 236, 248, 256] sts. 4 sts increased.

Work 4 rnds even.

Repeat last five rnds 2 more times. 152[160, 172, 180, 192, 200, 212, 220, 232, 240, 252, 260] sts. 8 sts increased.

Continue working even until piece measures 12[12.5, 13, 13, 13.5, 13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15] inches from the CO edge.

Slip marker at beginning of rnd. *K until 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts before the next marker, BO the next 10[10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14] sts; rep from * once more.

This will have separated your back and front by binding off the armhole bottoms and put you at the front side and ready to work back and forth flat now. 66[70, 76, 80, 86, 90, 94, 98, 104, 108, 114, 116] sts each for front and back halves.

FRONT
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] sts, k to end of row. 62[66, 72, 75, 81, 85, 89, 93, 99, 102, 108, 110] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] sts. p to end of row. 58[62, 68, 70, 76, 80, 84, 88, 94, 96, 102, 104] sts.

Row 3 [RS]:BO 3 sts, k to end of row. 55[59, 65, 67, 73, 77, 81, 85, 91, 93, 99, 101] sts.

Row 4 [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end of row. 52[56, 62, 64, 70, 74, 78, 82, 88, 90, 96, 98] sts.

Row 5 [RS]: *K1, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 50[54, 60, 62, 68, 72, 76, 80, 86, 88, 94, 96] sts. 2 sts decreased.

Row 6 [WS]: P to end of row.

Work last two rows 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 8] more times. 48[50, 56, 58, 64, 64, 68, 72, 78, 78, 82, 80] sts. 2[4, 4, 4, 4, 8, 8, 8,8, 10, 12, 16] sts decreased.

Continue to work even in st st until armhole measures 6.5[7, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches.

Neck/shoulder shaping:
Short row 1 [RS]: K 15[16, 18, 18, 18, 18, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23] sts, turn work.

Short row 2 [WS]: P to end of row.

Short row 3 [RS]: K 14[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22] sts, turn work.

Short row 4 [WS]: P to end of row.

Short row 5 [WS]: K 13[14, 16, 16, 16, 16, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21] sts, turn work.
Short row 6 [WS]: P to end of row.
Short row 7 [WS]: K 12[13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts, turn work.
Short row 8 [WS]: P to end of row.
Short row 9 [RS]: K to end of row.
Short row 10 [WS]: P 15[16, 18, 18, 18, 18, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23] sts, turn work.
Short row 11 [RS]: K to end of row.
Short row 12 [WS]: P 14[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22] sts, turn work.
Short row 13 [RS]: K to end of row.
Short row 14 [WS]: P 13[14, 16, 16, 16, 16, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21] sts, turn work.
Short row 15 [RS]: K to end of row.
Short row 16 [WS]: P 12[13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts, turn work.
Next row: K to end of row.
Next row: P to end of row.

Change to smaller needles.
Work 6 rows of 3x1 ribbing.

Work 12[13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts in pattern, BO 24[24, 26, 28, 34, 34, 32, 36, 42, 38, 42, 40] center sts very loosely in pattern, then work the last 12[13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts in pattern. Place shoulder sts on waste yarn whilst working back.

BACK
Work back in the same manner as Front.

Sleeves (make 2)
Using the smaller needle, CO 52[56, 56, 60, 60, 68, 68, 72, 72, 80, 80, 92].
Join to work in the round marking the beginning of round and being careful not to twist your sts.

Work in 3x1 ribbing for 6 rounds.

Switch to larger needle, start working in st st.

Work even until your sleeve measures 3.5[4, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 6] inches from the CO edge.

Start working flat.
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] sts, k to end of row. 48[52, 52, 55, 55, 63, 63, 67, 67, 74, 74, 86] sts.

Row 2 [WS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] sts, p to end of row. 44[48, 48, 50, 50, 58, 58, 62, 62, 68, 68, 80] sts.

Row 3 [RS]: BO 3 sts, k to end of row. 41[45, 45, 47, 47, 55, 55, 59, 59, 65, 65, 77] sts.

Row 4 [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end of row. 38[42, 42, 44, 44, 52, 52, 56, 56, 62, 62, 74] sts.

Row 5 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 36[40, 40, 42, 42, 50, 50, 54, 54, 60, 60, 72] sts. 2 sts decreased.

Row 6 [WS]: P to end of row.

Rep last two rows 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 8] more times. 34[36, 36, 38, 38, 42, 42, 46, 46, 50, 48, 56] sts. 2[4, 4, 4, 4, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 16] sts decreased.
Work 4 rows even.

Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 32[34, 34, 36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44, 48, 46, 54] sts. 2 sts decreased.
Work 3 rows even.
Work last 4 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 2, 2, 2] more times. 32[34, 34, 36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 40, 44, 42, 50] sts. 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts decreased.

Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 30[32, 32, 34, 34, 38, 38, 42, 38, 42, 40, 48] sts. 2 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: P to end of row.
Work last two rows 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 1, 3, 2, 1] more time(s). 20[22, 22, 24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 36, 36, 36, 46] sts. 10[10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14, 2, 6, 4, 2] sts decreased.

Continuing to work in st st, BO 2 sts at beg of next 2[2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 2, 2, 2, 2] rows. 16[18, 18, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 32, 32, 32, 42] sts. 4[4, 4, 8, 8, 8, 8, 12, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts decreased.
BO 3 sts at beg of next 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 6, 6, 6, 10] rows. 10[12, 12, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14, 12] sts.
BO all remaining sts.

FINISHING
Turn the body inside out. Match up the shoulders with right sides together, work a 3 needle bind off to join shoulders.
Pin the sleeves in the armholes, right sides together, and seam together.
Weave in all ends. Block.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Amy lives in a small town in Maine where she homeschools her kids and runs Spunky Eclectic Spinning and Weaving shop. Designing for knitwear and weaving is a passion.