INTRODUCTION

Gaius

by Merri Fromm

Gaius appreciates good design and fine materials: he selected this delicious yarn during a trip to Edinburgh Yarn Festival and we purchased it from John Arbon himself. The DK weight is perfect for those who might get too warm with a heavier weight yarn.

My goal was to create a garment worthy of the fiber, with classic gentlemanly features. After more than 20 years of marriage, I think I am totally safe from the Sweater Curse* in designing and knitting a sweater for my husband.

This cardigan is knit flat from the bottom up and seamed for sturdy structure. For smooth and snug shoulder caps, set-in sleeve stitches are picked up at the armholes and worked top down. An easy to work Barbara Walker pattern with fun twisted stitches decorates the fronts and back.

*The "sweater curse" is a term used by knitters to describe the belief that if a knitter makes a hand-knit sweater for a significant other, it will lead to the recipient breaking up with the knitter before that sweater has been completed.

model: Gaius Nelson

photos: Merri Fromm

SIZE

Men's S[M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size M with 2 inches/5 cm of ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest, buttoned:  39.75[43, 47.75, 51, 55.75, 59, 63.75, 67] inches / 101[109, 121.5, 129.5, 141.5, 150, 162, 170] cm
Shoulder to hem length:  23.25[25.25, 26.25, 27.25, 28.25, 29.25, 29.25, 30.25] inches / 59[64, 66.5, 69, 72, 74.5, 74.5, 77] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
John Arbon Textiles Devonia DK [50% Exmoor Blueface, 30% Bluefaced Leicester, 20% Wensleydale (100% Devon Wool); 233m per 100 g skein]; color: Pollen Gold; 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US 4/3.5mm needles for working flat
1 set US 5/3.75mm needles for working flat
1 set US 5/3.75mm needles for working small circumference in the round (for sleeves)
US 4/3.5mm circular needle, 40-inch/100 cm length (for buttonband)

Notions
stitch markers
stitch holders
5 removable stitch markers
5 1/2-inch/13mm buttons
yarn needle

GAUGE

24 sts/32 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This garment is worked flat, in pieces, from the bottom up and then seamed. Set-in sleeve stitches are picked up at the armholes and worked top down.

Heraldic Pattern with slip stitch edge (worked over 26 sts)
Note: Slipped stitches are slipped purlwise with yarn in back.
Rows 1, 3, 5 & 7 [WS]: P1, k2, (p2, k4) 3 times, p2, k2, p1.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k2, RT, k4, LT, k4, RT, k4, LT, k2, sl1.
Row 4: Sl1, k24, sl1.
Row 6: Sl1, k2, RT, k4, LT, k4, RT, k4, LT, k2, sl1.
Row 8: Sl1, k3, LT, k2, RT, k6, LT, k2, RT, k3, sl1.
Row 9: P1, k2, p3, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p3, k2, p1.
Row 10: Sl1, k4, LT, RT, k8, LT, RT, k4, sl1.
Row 11: P1, k2, p8, k4, p8, k2, p1.
Row 12: Sl1, k5, RT, k10, LT, k5, sl1.
Row 13: P1, k2, p8, k4, p8, k2, p1.
Row 14: Sl1, k4, RT, LT, k8, RT, LT, k4, sl1.
Row 15: P1, k2, p8, k4, p8, k2, p1.
Row 16: Sl1, k3, RT, k2, LT, k6, RT, k2, LT, k3, sl1.
Row 17: P1, k2, (p2, k4) 3 times, p2, k2, p1.
Row 18: Sl1, k2, LT, k4, RT, k4, LT, k4, RT, k2, sl1.
Row 19: P1, k2, (p2, k4) 3 times, p2, k2, p1.
Row 20: Sl1, k24, sl1.
Row 21: P1, k2, (p2, k4) 3 times, p2, k2, p1.
Row 22: Sl1, k2, LT, k4, RT, k4, LT, k4, RT, k2, sl1.
Row 23: P1, k2, (p2, k4) 3 times, p2, k2, p1.
Row 24: Sl1, k9, LT, k2, RT, k9, sl1.
Row 25: P1, k2, p2, k4, p3, k2, p3, k4, p2, k2, p1.
Row 26: Sl1, k10, LT, RT, k10, sl1.
Row 27: P1, k2, p2, k4, p3, k2, p3, k4, p2, k2, p1.
Row 28: Sl1, k11, LT, k11, sl1.
Row 29: P1, k2, p2, k4, p8, k4, p2, k2, p1.
Row 30: Sl1, k10, RT, LT, k10, sl1.
Row 31: P1, k2, p2, k4, p3, k2, p3, k4, p2, k2, p1.
Row 32: Sl1, k9, RT, k2, LT, k9, sl1.
Rep Rows 1-32 for patt.

RT—Right Twist: K2tog, leaving sts on left-hand needle; then insert right-hand needle from the front between the two sts just knitted together, and knit the first st again; then slip both sts from needle together.

LT—Left Twist: With right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one st and knit the second st through the back of the loop; then insert right-hand needle into the back of both sts (the skipped st and the second st) and k2tog through the back of the loops.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Back

With smaller needles, CO 118[130, 142, 154, 166, 178, 190, 202] sts. Do not join.

Row 1 [WS]: P1, (k2, p2) to last st, p1.
Row 2 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows three times more.

Change to larger needles.

Next row [WS]: P 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] , pm, work Row 1 of Heraldic Pattern Chart over next 26 sts, pm, p 34[42, 46, 54, 58, 66, 70, 78] , pm, work Row 1 of Heraldic Pattern Chart over next 26 sts, pm, p 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] .

Next row [RS]: K 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] , pm, work Row 2 of Heraldic Pattern Chart, pm, k 34[42, 46, 54, 58, 66, 70, 78] , pm, work Row 2 of Heraldic Pattern Chart, pm, k 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] .

Work even in St st and Chart patt as est until piece measures 15[16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 18, 18.5] inches / 38[42, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47, 45.5, 47] cm or desired length to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes:
Cont in patt, BO 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9] sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3[4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 104[114, 124, 132, 142, 150, 158, 166] sts.

Next row [RS]: K2, ssk, patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 2 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: Patt to end.
Repeat last 2 rows 2[3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 9] times more. 98[106, 114, 122, 130, 136, 144, 146] sts.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 8.25[8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25, 11.75] inches / 21[22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5, 28.5, 30] cm, ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulders and back neck:
Cont in patt, BO 4[5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts at beg of next 4 rows. 82[86, 94, 102, 110, 116, 120, 122] sts.

BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts at beg of foll 4 rows. 66[70, 78, 82, 90, 96, 100, 102] sts.

BO remaining sts for back neck.

Left Front

With smaller needles, CO 58[62, 70, 74, 82, 86, 94, 98] sts. Do not join.
Row 1 [WS]: P1, (k2, p2) to last st, p1.
Row 2 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows three times more.

Change to larger needles.

Next row [WS]: P 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] , pm, work Row 1 of Heraldic Pattern Chart over next 26 sts, pm, p 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] .

Next row [RS]: K 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] , work Row 2 Heraldic Pattern Chart, k 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] .

Work even in St st and Chart patt as est until piece measures 15[16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 18, 18.5] inches / 38[42, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47, 45.5, 47] cm, or until piece measures same length as Back to armholes, ending after a WS row.

Shape Left Front neck and armhole:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 54[57, 65, 68, 76, 80, 87, 91] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Work even in patt.
Row 3: BO 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 50[53, 61, 64, 71, 75, 82, 86] sts.
Row 4: Work even in patt.
Row 5: K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 2 sts dec.
Rows 6-7: Repeat Rows 4-5. 46[49, 57, 60, 67, 71, 78, 82] sts.
Row 8: Work even in patt.

Note: As you decrease into Herald pattern, maintain 4 sts at neck edge in St st.

Sizes S and M Only:
Row 9 [RS]: Patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 1 st dec.
Row 10–12: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 4 rows 13[12, -, -, -, -, -, -] times more. 32[36, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes L-6X Only:
Row 9 [RS]: Patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 1 st dec.
Row 10: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows -[-, 20, 19, 26, 30, 33, 37] times more. -[-, 36, 40, 40, 40, 44, 44] sts.

Work even in pattern until armhole measures 8.25[8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25, 11.75] inches / 21[22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5, 28.5, 30] cm, ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulders and back neck:
BO 9[9, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12] sts at beg of next RS row, 8[9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 11, 12] sts at beg of foll RS row, and 8[9, 8, 10, 10, 10, 11, 10] sts at beg of next RS row. BO rem 7[9, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10] sts.

Right Front
With smaller needle, CO 58[62, 70, 74, 82, 86, 94, 98] sts. Do not join.
Row 1 [WS]: P1, (k2, p2) to last st, p1.
Row 2 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) to last st, k1.
Repeat Rows 1-2 three times more.

Change to larger needle.

Next row [WS]: P 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] , pm, work Row 1 of Heraldic Pattern Chart over next 26 sts, pm, p 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] .

Next row [RS]: K 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] , work Row 2 Heraldic Pattern Chart, k 16[18, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34, 36] .

Work even in St st and Chart patt as est until piece measures 15[16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 18, 18.5] inches / 38[42, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47, 45.5, 47] cm, or until piece measures same length as Back to armholes, ending after a RS row.

Shape Front neck and armhole:
Row 1 [WS]: BO 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts at armhole edge, patt to end. 55[58, 66, 69, 77, 81, 88, 92] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, SSK, patt to end. 1 st dec. 54[57, 65, 68, 76, 80, 87, 91] sts.
Row 3: BO 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, patt to end. 51[54, 62, 65, 72, 76, 83, 87] sts.
Row 4: K2, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec.
Row 5: P2, p2tog, patt to end. 1 st dec.
Rows 6-7: Repeat Rows 4-5.
Row 8: K2, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec. 46[49, 57, 60, 67, 71, 78, 82] sts.

Note: As you decrease into Herald pattern, maintain 4 sts at neck edge in St st.

Sizes S and M Only:
Row 9 [WS]: Work even in patt.
Row 10 [RS]: K2, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec.
Row 11–12: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 4 rows 13[12, -, -, -, -, -, -] times more. 32[36, -, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes L-6X Only:
Row 9 [WS]: Work even in patt.
Row 10: K2, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec.
Repeat last 2 rows -[-, 20, 19, 26, 30, 33, 37] times more. -[-, 36, 40, 40, 40, 44, 44] sts.

Work even in pattern until armhole measures 8.25[8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25, 11.75] inches / 21[22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5, 28.5, 30] cm, ending after a RS row.

Shape shoulders and back neck:
Cont in patt, 9[9, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12] sts at beg of next WS row, 8[9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 11, 12] sts at beg of foll WS row, and 8[9, 8, 10, 10, 10, 11, 10] sts at beg of foll WS row. BO rem 7[9, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10] sts.

Sleeves
Sew shoulder and side seams.

Shape sleeve cap:
With RS facing, using needles for working small circumference in the round and starting at center of underarm, pick up and knit sts 41[44, 50, 51, 54, 57, 60, 65] sts evenly to shoulder seam, pm, then pick up and knit 41[44, 50, 51, 54, 57, 60, 65] sts back to center of underarm. Pm and join to work in the round. 82[88, 100, 102, 108, 114, 120, 130] sts

Knit 1 rnd.

Next row: Knit to shoulder marker, sl m, k 14[14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20] , w&t.
Next row: P 14[14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20] , sl m, p 14[14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20] , w&t.

Next row [RS]: Knit to wrapped st (picking up wrap with st), w&t.
Next row [WS]: Purl back to wrapped st (picking up wrap with st), w&t.
Repeat last 2 rows 11[14, 18, 19, 20, 23, 26, 29] times more. 14 sts between last w&t and beg of rnd marker.

Cont to work St st in the round for 16 rounds, working rem wraps with wrapped sts.

Sleeve Decreases:
Dec rnd: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. 2 st dec.
Knit 6[5, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3] rnds.
Repeat last 7[6, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4] rnds 14[17, 23, 22, 25, 28, 29, 34] times more. 52[52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60] sts.

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 17[17.5, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5] inches/ 43[44.5, 47, 48.5, 49.5, 49.5, 51, 52] cm from underarm, or 1 inch / 2.5 cm shorter than desired total length.

Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end.
Rep last rnd until rib meas 1 inch /2.5 cm.
BO in Rib patt.

Repeat for second sleeve.

FINISHING

Buttonband

With RS facing, using long circ, and starting at lower right front corner, pick up and knit 84[94, 96, 98, 102, 104, 102, 104] sts up Right Front edge, 52[54, 56, 60, 62, 66, 68, 70] sts along Right Front neck edge, 20[24, 24, 28, 28, 28, 28, 32] sts along Back neck edge, 52[54, 56, 60, 62, 66, 68, 70] sts down Left Front neck edge, and 84[94, 96, 98, 102, 104, 102, 104] sts down Left Front edge. 292[320, 328, 344, 356, 368, 368, 380] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, (k2, p2) to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-2, then repeat Row 1 once more.

Using removable markers, mark placement of 5 buttonholes on Left Front, evenly spaced in 2-st purl spaces on RS.

Row 6 [buttonhole row; RS]: Sl 1, *rib to k2 before next mrk, k1, kf&b, (p1, pass second st on RH ndl over first st) twice, k2tog tbl; rep from * 4 times more, patt to end.
Row 7 [WS]: *Patt to BO on previous row, CO 2 sts; rep from * 4 times more, patt to end.

Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, (k2, p2) to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 9: Sl 1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Repeat Rows 8-9 once, then rep Row 8 once more.
BO in patt.

Weave in remaining ends. Block seams and button band. Sew on buttons to correspond to buttonholes.

A – Chest circumference (buttoned): 39.75[43, 47.75, 51, 55.75, 59, 63.75, 67] inches / 101[109, 121.5, 129.5, 141.5, 150, 162, 170] cm
B – Total length to shoulder: 23.25[25.25, 26.25, 27.25, 28.25, 29.25, 29.25, 30.25] inches / 59[64, 66.5, 69, 72, 74.5, 74.5, 77] cm
C – Armhole length: 8.25[8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25, 11.75] inches / 21[22, 23.5, 25, 26, 27.5, 28.5, 30] cm
D – Back neck width: 5.75[5.75, 7, 7, 8.25, 9.25, 9.25, 9.75] inches / 14.5[14.5, 18, 18, 21, 23.5, 23.5, 25] cm
E – Upper arm circumference: 13.75[14.75, 16.75, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21.75] inches / 35[37.5, 42.5, 43, 45.5, 48.5, 51, 55] cm
F – Sleeve length: 18[18.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5] inches / 45.5[47, 49.5, 51, 52, 52, 53.5, 54.5] cm
G – Body length:  15[16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 18, 18.5] inches / 38[42, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47, 45.5, 47] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Merri lives in Saint Paul, Minnesota where she works as a WW Wellness Coach and graphic designer. She lives with her husband, the handsome model for this sweater, the sweet cats, Twister and Quigley, and thanks to the coronavirus, her college-age daughter.

You'll find more of her work on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2020 Merri Fromm