Vacillate

Vacillate, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Vacillate

beauty shotby

Tangy

 

As someone who travels regularly, I'm always interested in clothing that can be packed easily and be worn in different ways. This vest is a useful layer that can be worn open or wrapped for added warmth. Knit in squishy, stretchy brioche, it's also a "wearable blanket," shawl, or cowl (or pillow) for chilly airplanes, buses, or wherever your travels take you. It's the perfect accessory to show off your collection of shawl pins other decorative removable fasteners.

As brioche stitch is quite stretchy, the sizing of this vest is very forgiving. You can also try it on as you go to determine the width of the front and back panels. The sections of two-color brioche make this piece reversible as well, with colors changing prominence on opposite sides of the fabric.

spacer model + photos: Renee Kulling

SIZE

Women's XS/S[M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X, 5X/6X]
shown in size M/L with 11 inches/28 cm of overlap at chest and 2.5 inches/6.5 cm of negative ease at back

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Total width:  39.25[49.5, 59.75, 68.25, 78.5] inches / 99.5[125.5, 152, 173.5, 199.5] cm
Length:  16[20, 24, 27, 31] inches / 40.5[51, 61, 68.5, 78.5] cm
Depth: 26.25[27.5, 28.5, 29.75, 30.25] inches / 66.5[70, 72.5, 75.5, 77] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Knit Picks Hawthorne DK [80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Polyamide; 225yd/206m per 100g hank];
spacer [MC] Blackbird Kettle; 2[2, 3, 3, 4] skeins
spacer [CC] Cattail Kettle; 1[1, 2, 2, 2] skeins


Yarn Characteristics
spacer The sample shown uses a DK-weight superwash merino wool with nylon. It is high-twist and bouncy, with some drape from the nylon content.


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #7/4.5mm circular needle, 32 to 48 inches/80 to 120 cm long

Notions
spacer yarn needle

GAUGE

Rows 1A-1B and 2A-2B count as 1 row each when measuring gauge.

14 sts/18 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Single Color and Two Color Brioche Patterns

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: This vest is worked in one piece side to side with armholes bound off and cast on mid row. It begins with an i-cord chain, then stitches are picked up before continuing in brioche stitch for the body. I-cord edges are worked at the same time as the body, and the last side edge is finished with an I-cord bind off.

The vest starts with an I-cord cast on. Because brioche stitch is very stretchy, the i-cord needs to be knit loosely. I do not recommend using an i-cord tool, as they tend to make a denser, tighter i-cord. If you choose to use an i-cord tool, you may find that you'll have to cast on more rows than necessary to create the needed length and will have to adjust the number of stitches picked up along the side accordingly.

BrK (brioche knit): Knit the stitch together with its yarn over.

BrP (brioche purl): Purl the stitch together with its yarn over.

Yf-Sl1-YO: Worked after a BrK, this is a slipped stitch that creates a yarn over (or "shawl") over a stitch. Bring the yarn to the front, slip the next st purlwise, wrap the yarn to the back over the slipped stitch to work the next st.

Yf-Sl1-YOF: Worked after a BrP, this is a slipped stitch that creates a yarn over (or "shawl") over a stitch. With the yarn to the front, slip the next st purlwise, wrap the yarn over the slipped stitch to the front to work the next st.

My favorite videos for single color brioche and two-color brioche are from Stephen West:
Single Color Brioche
Two Color Brioche

Single Color Brioche Pattern
Note: Both RS and WS row are worked the same.
Row 1A [RS]: K3, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK 1; rep from * to last 3 sts, sl 3 wyif.
Row 1B [WS]: K3, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK 1; rep from * to last 3 sts, sl 3 wyif.
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.

Two Color Brioche Pattern
Note: Row 1A is a RS row worked with MC, with stitches slid to the other end of the circular needle and another RS row worked with CC for Row 1B. Likewise, Rows 2A and 2B are both WS rows.
Row 1A [RS]: With MC, K3, *Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK 1; rep from * to last 3 sts, sl 3 wyif.
Row 1B [RS]: With CC, Sl 3, *BRP 1, Yf-Sl1-YOF; rep from * to last 3 sts, sl 3 wyif.
Row 2A [WS]: With MC, K3, *BRP 1, Yf-Sl1-YOF; to last 3 sts, sl 3 wyif.
Row 2B [WS]: With CC, Sl 3, Yf-Sl1-YO, BRK1* to 3 sts before end, sl3 wyif.

DIRECTIONS

Right Front
Using CC, CO 3 sts.

I-cord chain
Next row: K3, sl 3 back to left needle. Do not turn.
Rep this row until a total of 86[90, 94, 98, 100] rows of i-cord have been worked.

Next row [RS]: K3, turn work 90 degrees, ready to work along i-cord edge. Pick up and knit 86[90, 94, 98, 100] sts (1 st from each row), making sure to work in the same column of sts so that the i-cord does not twist. Turn work 90 degrees once more and pick up and knit 3 sts from CO. 92[96, 100, 104, 106] sts.

Brioche Set-up
Set-up row [WS]: K3, *Yf-Sl1-YO, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, sl 3.

Work Rows 1A-1B of Single Color Brioche Pattern 6[8, 10, 10, 12] times.

Join MC and work Rows 1A-2B of Two Color Brioche Pattern 3[4, 5, 6, 7] times.

Break CC.

With MC, work Rows 1A-1B in Single Color Brioche Pattern 40[50, 60, 70, 80] times, or to desired length of Right Front panel.

Shape first armhole:
Note: Continue working Single Color Brioche Pattern with 3 edge sts as established.

Row 1 [RS]: Patt 13[15, 17, 19, 21] sts, BO 20[24, 28, 30, 36] sts in patt, patt to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Patt 59[57, 55, 55, 49] to gap created by BO sts on last row, CO 20[24, 28, 30, 36] sts using backwards loop cast-on method, patt to end.

Back Panel
Work Rows 1A-1B of Single Color Brioche Pattern 24[30, 36, 42, 48] times.

Join CC.

Work Rows 1A-2B of Two Color Brioche Pattern 3[4, 5, 5, 6] times.

Break MC.

Note: To adjust the width of the back panel, add or subtract rows in the following Single Color Brioche section.

With CC, work Rows 1A-1B of Single Color Brioche Pattern 12[14, 16, 18, 20] times.

Join MC.

Work Rows 1A-2B of Two Color Brioche Pattern 3[4, 5, 5, 6] times.

Break CC.

With MC, work Rows 1A-1B of Single Color Brioche Pattern 24[30, 36, 42, 48] times.

Shape second armhole:
Row 1 [RS]: Patt 13[15, 17, 19, 21] sts, BO 20[24, 28, 30, 36] sts in patt, patt to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Patt 59[57, 55, 55, 49] to gap created by BO sts on last row, CO 20[24, 28, 30, 36] sts using backwards loop cast-on method, patt to end.

Left Front

With MC, work Rows 1A-1B of Single Color Brioche Pattern 40[50, 60, 70, 80] times, or for the same number of Single Color Brioche rows worked in MC on Right Front.

Join CC.

Work Rows 1A-2B of Two Color Brioche Pattern 3[4, 5, 6, 7] times.

Break MC.

With CC, work Rows 1A-1B of Single Color Brioche Pattern 6[8, 10, 10, 12] times.

I-cord BO: *K2, ssk, sl 3 sts back to LH needle; repeat from * to last 3 sts. 6 total sts remain. Graft the two sets of 3 sts together using Kitchener stitch.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Wash and block gently to measurements.

A—Width: 39.25[49.5, 59.75, 68.25, 78.5] inches / 99.5[125.5, 152, 173.5, 199.5] cm
B—Depth: 24.5[25.75, 27, 28, 28.5] inches/ 62.5[65.25, 68.25, 71, 72.5] cm
C—Body depth: 16.75[16.25, 15.75, 15.75, 14] inches/ 42.5[41.5, 40, 40, 35.5] cm
D—Armhole depth: 5.75[6.75, 8, 8.5, 10.25] inches / 14.5[17, 20.5, 21.5, 26] cm
E—Shoulder depth: 3.75[4.25, 4.75, 5.5, 6] inches / 9.5[11, 12, 14, 15] cm
F—Back width: 16[20, 24, 27, 31] inches / 40.5[51, 61, 68.5, 78.5] cm
G—Front width: 11.5[14.75, 17.75, 20.5, 23.5] inches / 29[37.5, 45, 52, 59.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Renee Kulling lives, works, and plays in Michigan, USA. She's a runner and wannabe cyclist, and loves to be outside and active with her dogs, daughter, and husband. Her favorite color is yellow.

You can find her on Ravelry and Instagram.

Pattern & images © 2024 Renee Kulling